fjh

Well it does have some of that brown sludge in the oil filler cap lid

Cheers

James

I'd be pulling the pan if your loosing coolant!The brown sludge can be running to cool as well!The key is loosing coolant!

Hi guys what could be causing excesive blowby, on my 1999/ 460 , new heads and a new turbo, blowing lots of white smoke out the oil filler tube and dip stick only when they are removed,

ARE YOU MISSING ANY COOLANT!

These engines tend to have some blow by over time! Remove and look at the fill plug .Does it look Green or wet with sludge? If not I would not worry too much!Having said that we have had a rash of failed turbos latly around here ,The turbos were the culpets ,BUT the symtom of blow by was under load HIGH boost.To newer units did this and several older ones.

That is from working on then instead of looking at them and guessing ant it Hand.

That fix cost me alot of gray hairs 8hrs worth and the owner a fuel pump check over and all the parts and related sensors plug pins.

YOU Got it for FREE! sort of lucky dog.

I'm pretty sure the 285 was built with the heavy duty cam for use with with a jake brake.

As matter of fact Trent your engine likly has a dynatard cam !the cams where basicly all the same . the jake is not much more if any more effective on a 285 than the dynatard, and a much easier install .Just rockers pushtubes and diffrent valve covers and the same wiring as the jake!

well finally the problem was fixed, after 3 weeks with a truck that was unusable. you were right, the connection at the torque limit switch was bad, we would have never thought to look there nor did the mechanics. they forgot all about it. and the new wiring harness was loose at all connections on the firwall, but the connection at the torque limit switch was the problem. i thank you so much, you have saved us alot more time and money, should have asked 3 weeks ago i guess. anyway untill next time. thank you again. fixed 427

Glad to help! Ask and you shall recieve!

we took our 1995 r model mack and swapped out the 400 motor and droped in a used 427, about three years ago. after some computer issues we finnally got the truck on the road, the 427 was incredably strong, right up till 3 weeks ago. the motor started to hitch and hesitate on hills, so we took it to a mack shop, the mechanic changed the injection pump with a good working used one and sent us on our way. the truck didnt hesitate any more, but lacked power, so he told us to take the original pump to get calibrated. we had the original looked at and calibrated, but there was nothing wrong with the pump, it was working fine, besides a little timing and cleaning. so we put it back on the truck, still lacking power. so they said it wasnt the pump it was the wiring harness to the pump, they changed it with a new one and gave us the truck back. we took the truck on the road with a EMPTY log trailer behind and it didnt just lack power now it could barely haul itself. we had to drop the trailer and take the truck to another mack shop. that shop said our turbo was cracked, so we put a good working used one on and still nothing, changed the air filter and fuel filters and all of the fuel lines, still nothing. new air to air, 6 new injectors, new intake sensors, boost gauge, STILL NO POWER. we can only get 15 to 20 psi boost from the turbo, 2 mechanics say the fuel pressure is fine 1 says it fluctuates. the temp gauge will read 180 after a quick run but the comp hooked up will read 108 and a temp gun shot at the manifold will read 103. first thing tommorrow morning i want to check all connections on the new wiring harness because after it was installed we lost all power. oh and the vavles have been set as well. if anyone has ideas or input please help. thanks frustrated 427. p.s. the turbo for the 427 is actually off of a 400 because the 427 turbo will not fit with the hood closed but the motor had tremendice power before with the other 400 turbo.

Fuel preasure should not be an issue unless its really starving for fuel, it would likly stuter, stumble and miss if it were running out of fuel preasure ,sounds like a programed derate.these are the things to check in order( sounds like they have been checked BUT ya never know!

check 1 - Fault codes (Repair as nessary)

check 2 - fuel preasure 15 to 20 psi under load.

check 3 - re-pin fuel pump plug.

if you have all of the above checked and done heres another place to go.

i ran into this awhile back on an RD!( hicups and hesitations are USUALLY it is the pin conections at the fuel pump!)BUT Having said that ,You now get 1/2 the boost the engine should make ! You likly have a second unrelated problem If you have no faults coming up( No blink codes) , I would check to make sure the wiring to the torque limit switch on the trans is not shorted !The computer will not see a problem with this because it doesnt know theres a problem!(All it sees is a closed switch),

and derates the power by half.

check it out and see if that may lead you to a fix.

Do not crank of move the engine while the pump is removed. It only will go on one way and if the engine is not cranked, or turned over, timing is not an issue.

Rob

If it is an american bosch pump ,the pump will only go on one way it is doweled! Also (just a tip) when you install the pump back on the engine cut the new gasket from the round hole where the drive goes thru down to the top of the small drain hole below it take out aprox the hole width of the bottom up to the sides of the drive hole you should end up with a V shaped cut out if you don't they tend to biuld preasure from around the aluminum drive insert and externally leak by the gasket no matter how well you have sealed it.

They were indeed wedge brakes and in very rough shape - not really worth rebuilding. I read some discussion of switching over to S-cams and did some research. It seems to be pretty straight forward and economical. Has anyone gone this route?

Glenn you da man! Love this comment

( A simple test to tell which set up you have is if they stop when you apply the brakes they may not be wedge brakes.) no truer words have been spoken!

Just an opinion from someone whos ,beendar dun dat.

You would be well advised to go find a complete front axle assembly some where! the change over can be a big hastle getting the right this, that and the other thing to work with the hubs you have.I'd be hunting up a complete axle to be on the safe side.

again just an opinion!

jus a general question to you guys in the States , i went into my local MACK dealer here in South Australia to get speccs an a price on new MACK TITAN as i looking at putting together a triple ( 3 , 45ft flat top trailers ) for some work i,m at getting into in north and was told i can no longer order or even get a MACK fitted with a CAT only CUMMINS....... jus my personal prefference but when the SIGNATURE 600,s were released here in Aust they were almost without exception Red ( i,m convinced they paint em that colour for a REASON !! ) Hand Grenades......any input from you all out there on said Cummins wld be appreciated as would want to keep a Dog on tha grille to keep the fleet , but until i,m convinced otherwise i cant see myself sighnin for a Cummins powered puppy ......also as i,m throwin this to the forum any feedback on new CAT C15 ACERT as i had a 1st genaration C15 in a CENTURY class Freightliner doing double road trains ( as a driver ) and was RAPT in it Great Power an compared to 12L Series 60 DDEC4 previously in a STERLING was comparable in fuel economy..was averaging 1.5 to1.9L to 100kilometers , in my book that good for a gross weight of @ 90ton.......let u guys convert to MPG

This is coming from a mack guy so take it for what its worth.

The ISX has been a fair replacement for the V8 here ,Weve seen very few cats here so I can't coment on that!The ISX Suffers from their own set of egr problems (but get use to it)!We have several in our low bed trucks and have had good sucess with them!Just a A note and a thought for you,Look at your 15 and your isx compare the 2 visually, Which engine was designed to move forward in time! The cat is the same platform it has been for years with a bunch of addons so much so that a simple water pump job is now a nitemare.Having said that I am a non cummins guy my self but having compared the two And having to work on this over enginered stuff I'd rather work on the cummins for now! (speaking of over engineered) Next I have to warm up to the Volvo Stuff (I'm still resisting)

the bor and sleve thing works cummins has done this for years.The counter bores can also be sleeved!

How much is the owner going to pay for this learning experience?

David

The owner will llkly pay nothing! The head is under warrenty for one year ,the jake piston thing i just speculation on my part, but I'd bet dollars to donuts this is where the problem lies.

So then the 1983 vintage EM6-300 should be safe regarding this issue and the Jacobs brake ?

yes its a diffrent set up! Not to worry.

Anyway more to the story coming to a theater near you.

The pins in the above pic are eteck !

Theses pins are OK ,I beleive the slave that operates the on top of these is the direct cause of this failure we investigated further today and as soon As I saw these slave pistons and there condition I remembered orderng them back when the first failure occured ,apon further investigation it seems our parts people never notified us or the customer parts had come in and the customer was never notified to bring the truck back to have them installed . We went down to the parts dept, no one seemed to have a clue (this is quite normal).So we went over to the holdshelf where parts are kept on hold for jobs and sure enough 3 slave pistions sit with no tag or work order number or anything ,all lonely on the shelf !THEY'VE been sitting here for THREE MONTHS and no one asked any questions???.!I think the ball has been dropped here US DUMB mechanics just order in specilty parts in JUST for somthing to do I GUESS. This is a non stocking item surely you should be asking some questons?

.I'm just a tad pi$$ed off at this!

checked that today ,the valve pin that goes thru the screw looks fine !the yoke and pin look to have no funny wear!

To all those who read my post and ran off scared, well done (these Quantums are a very scary thing). I have since found out that the exhaust cam lobe profile has been modified on post 1999 EA7 Etech engines. Turns out after re-doing the valve adjustment thanks to some VERY helpful information posted elsewhere in this section, the exhaust valve gap actually increases after you rotate the engine past the Valve set marks. I rang Mack trucks in Adelaide today after finding this and nearly tearing my hair out, to be told, " oh yeah, that's normal" I did question him about a 1/4" valve clearance being normal????? and he started on about modified lobe profiles, etc, etc. Why couldn't they tell me this last thursday when I rang??????? Oh the joy of it all.

Chris if you had just run thru the valve set with out checking things (second guessing your self) you would have been just fine!

as long as the valvs are adjusted properly on the valve set marks what ever happens after that doesnt mater!just enlighten you a bit more ALL mack engines since the dynatard was invented are like that even the V8.

If it has happen two times on same cyl. then may have a exhaust brake problem. I dont know about the eteck but 60 series DD can have a exhaust brakehanging the valve open too long and hitting the piston and one of their units was hanging due to the piston having a wear ridge in the housing and it would hange on it just for a little bit. By the yoke pin being broke that sounds like a side ways force to do that but if one valve hangs down then that may do it. glenn

Thanx Glen

The engine was sitting aa loading dock idling when it broke!The jake was not

in use at this point the driver claims it was bumped up to 800 rpms or so the valve pin that goes thru the screw looks fine the yoke pin simply snapedoff flush I didnt have time to look at much else yesterday will look deeper monday just fishing for ideas at this point.as I said this engine has been bad news for quite some time for so reason.

Guys we have had a problem truck eteck 460 which has choked down a valve on #2 cyl for the second time.The valve yoke pin was broken in both instances

chicken or the egg??Is there a roller / h ring issue causeing this? or just a bad luck with reman parts?I checked and the push tube is still straight !First head lasted just over a year, this head 7 months or so.Engine was a total rebuild 2-3 years ago due to a valve failure as well.

The guy is not very happy and nor are we over this BS.

This engine has a long history of problems. And good maintance.

This customer has been a solid Mack guy for years this truck has been a sore spot for him.

Any input or thoughts?

Buying a PETE not aceptable!

25- 30 boost is a warm good running 400

your 427 will likly hold on longer than the 400.

the torque curve is relitivly flat.

Year of unit makes a pile of diffrence too .

It seemed as the emmisons got tighter the horse power seemed to shrink!

NO ONE would ever admit to it but Im sure thats how it worked.

once the buy off went down with the EPA and what have you we noticed some power come down the pipe for a bit! there were

data files that would actually put out. the XP file was avalible for the eteck for a real breif period aprox 2 years.

that got nipped back real quick.

It does not smoke at all I will try the boost gauge and fuel filters. Is there a way to check fuel pressure or do you need to take it to a mack dealer and hook it up to a computer.

There is a plug on the front of the block right in front of the fuel pump gallerys screw in a 2 inch 3/8 pipe close nipple and an elbow with an aproprate sized fitting to adapt a guage to you'll need a 0 to150 gauge to do (this also can be used for boost) your looking for 60 to 100 psi fuel preasure.

if you have no smoke and below posted spec boost be looking at a fueling issue 25- 30 boost is a warm good running 400.

Joe

A common wheel base up here is 204 inches !55 inch or 60 between bogies.

I'm sorry for askin so many questions but i only have the overhaul manual. How many CC's of fuel does a stock E9 500 get. Im trying to see if the guy doing the pump work in the area is giving me my best bang for the buck. Ill guess that its about 120 cause a 300 E6 gets about 90. I need to locate the other manual for this motor if anyone has any leads that would be great.. Thanks again ~Joe

Doc

i can't answer that question BUT Whatever bang he gives you I just about guaranty

we can getcha lots more if you need it!

I have both types of pumps, and the Robert Bosch is the smoother one and it dosen't smoke as bad as the AMBAC either. The only difference in the two is the pump and injectors. the engines are the same.

the timing maybe a little diffrent too ,when they changed to RB they added a second pointer on the engine one to set valves and one to install the pump!

It is a Fuller 9 speed, and I traced the air lines and they do run back to the switch for the hi/lo on the shifter. Wondering why that little green wire was in there with them and is now cut back?

it is likly the exhast for the range button

the valve set is the same,you simply set the jake as your seting the valves the setting is depenant on hp 85 thou comes to mind!

Hey Guys

I finally aquired a bulldog with an E9. Im gonna use it for extra cariculare activity(mostly abuse). How many Rpm's will this thing turn with a stock set of heads? How often should i chek those buttress screws (bolts in the lower side of the block to hold the mains)? Ill post some pics when I get it home Saturday! thanks ~Joe

Depending on the ponys ! 2000 - 2300 You don't want to mess with too much rpms on that engine the valves will float and you can smash lifters very ,very easy! BE happy with brute low end !Torque gets the load moving Not HP! Increased rpm is mostly hp.not worth a bunch in my mind!

The buttres bolts SHOULD't need to be checked they torque up to 90 lbs and SHOULD stay there.

Well today I found out a few things. First off my engine is not original to the truck. I had my parts supplier chase down the engine serial number and it was fitted to a 1975 truck; mine is a 1977. The pump is also certified for a 1975 engine as stamped. It also had the "puff limiter" and "torque limiter" from the factory. The air cylinder is still on the trans, but the air line just hangs loose and unconnected. The injection pump has a plug in the end, (like yours) but I did not take it apart. The reversing valve, hose, and air cylinder are long gone. It is also stamped: PLE .857 which is the "puff limiter extension. The Mack service manual, (TS-442) has a very informative section on how this setup worked; Pretty slick for no electronics involved.

I did make an appointment to have the injectors looked at on Friday. I will pull them out and they will look at them while I wait. I was surprised to see the "crack pressure" so high at 3850 psi. Most engines I've been around are at 2300 psi and lower.

I really appreciate all the help with this thread. I probably won't install the "puff limiter" back onto the engine unless I can't get the smoke down by other means.

Thanks again!

Rob

Judging by the color of the engine it is a 325 maxidyne!The bimbo is not present but could be installed if you wanted to go that far!You would simply remove the plug on the right hand rack and install the bimbo slave and some shims and add in the reversing relay!