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Last night I found the link to the Eaton Clutch video. I forgot who posted it

I beleive that be me!The thing the video touches on but dosent ephisize is the linkage adjustment!Get that clutch arm set properly and the rest is a cake walk!If you are using an easy pedal clutch and the linkage is not set correctly and you shoot for their measurments it will slip!

Them dam air throtles are a pain!You can tweak the peasure at the foot valve a bit but for the most part you need to mess with the linkage till you get it to hit the stop fully!!this is and rd 800 right?I would get or make a cable setup simular to the superliner set up it will make your life much simpler!SEE if Barry can set you up with at least a cable and devize your own pedal.

That v8 should pull like a train too IF you got full throtle and the stop is going FULL ON!Have somone push on the throtle and confirm at the pump that the lever is going full on! on both levers!The other posibility is the smoke limit diphram MAY have a hole in it!A good running V8 will make 24 to 28 psi boost and stay under 1000 on the pyro!A HOT V8 will make 28 to 32 psi boost and stay in the same heat area!

HK Im not so sure he can do that with a fuller trans!It is a can do with any mack trans thou.

Regarding the rattle when the clutch is disengaged, are you sure it's not just the normal rattle of the centerplate when there is no tension on it?

And you are correct !

This may be a normal clatter

Proper run in as follows!Acorrding to me and it works for EVERY ENGINE for the most part, Start the engine run a 1000 rpms till tempature starts to rise ,run under moderate load till operating temp is reached!

PUT A BIG LOAD ON ITS BACK AND PRETEND that you just stole a million bucks from the bank and the cops are after you and you don't want to be thrown in the slammer.In the morning follow the previous writers instructions on head torqing back off 1\4 tighten to 225 Book says 210-20 I think?I always went a little tighter worked for me. :)And while your at it re tighten (ALL) the hose clamps the ones on the back in front of the turbo ALWAYS leak after a runnin and the water pump bypass as well!

The worst possible thing you can do to a high HP engine is not work it! 30 minutes idling is too long in my opinion ,the first hour or two of running is the MOST important hours of the engines life.IF you can get a good hard run in, in the first hour of a rebuild you got it made.The engine will not use oil and will serve you well glad you found the problem and it was simple!

The above breakin opinion is based on true life experiance NOT FROM SOME ONE FLYING A DESK!

When the v8 first apeared WE SOLD lots Here ,we had oil burners and some not !After some time We observed the engines that were oil burners were trucks that had made the trip from the factory to our lot 3500 miles awayEMTY !The trucks that were piggy backed from the factory were fine( no hours )the driven truck with dogs on its back were fine, BUT if the truck was BOBTAILED from there to here is where problems were encountered! Oil burners were inadvertantly created by doing this! No one really clued in to this for quite a few years.After working with the engine for a number of years you could see the pattern un fold and it really all makes sense.Our company from that point on tried to be sure that v8's were piggybacked and not driven emty that solved alot of problems!

Hence the method of breakin I use and will swear by EVERYTIME!

Muncher

Heres the drill!

Determinte which head is the culpret!listen for a ticking sound or use your heat gun!remove the lid and check for anything out of the ordinary bent push tubes on rockers ill adjusted or loose jam nuts on cross heads and rockers . Does the engine pound?/???? metal on metal sound???? if so lift the rocker on your suspect head and check the valve stem height! are they even?? if not you have droped a valve seat! Head's should come off and sent back to these guys to fix properly!if not maybe a bad injector or somthing!I have built my fair share of E9s and have never had a problem with head gaskets in a short period like you've done! Having said that!

Spec on liner height = 1/2 to 41/2 thou 4 is best the higher the better Being as you didn't remove them WERE THEY EVEN ALL THE WAY AROUND????

The liners can and do sink (counter bores crack)

head bolts you need to check ALL the bottom bolts for being broken SPECIALLY the corner ones we always replaced these with new they always seemed to break for some reason!

Anyway let us know what ya find determine the problemand and I'll try and help ya out some if your willing to listen!

I will third the duability thing a midliner is a fine unit if maintained.

You may have a problem with working range if you put a 350 turbo on!Don't quote me, but the working range of a 300 is alot broader than the 350 and 350 is designed to work with a multi speed trans small gaps rather than big ones!The 300 ussually has a 8 or 10 speed trans behind it the 350 a 12 sp or 18 You may find your self not being able to lift your butt out of the next gear! Don't be to hasty in changing out that turbo!

thanks for all your comments.i have got new trunnion caps on the way and think i will change the red bush's to rubber. my parts man has told me the bush's only come in 8 1/4 or 6 5/8 but my red bush's are 7 1/2???can anyone help with the right bush maybe a part number . thanks again

The secret to making the brass trunion last is to jack the truck off the ground (all the weight off the wheels) let em hang! then grease em!

Grease will always take the path of least resistance and that being the up side of the trunion when the weight is on the wheels ,the bottom side while hanging

this way your putting the grease where it needs to be!on the bottom.

My engine has the Robt. Bosch pump. I've reset the valves as of today and the difference between using the P and the V mark is minimal. About 0.002" difference was noted on a couple of the valves when I checked them before resetting them to the proper timing mark. I don't see how the engine could be damaged if the wrong mark is used, although I do prefer to have the timing set correctly.

The engine is now back together, running and awaiting a road test. It should be noted that on the retorque of my heads after the initial run in period that there was a significant amount of take up on the re-torque. While none of the bolts were loose, every one of them seemed to take up considerably more slack when re-torqued. I don't remember if I ever re-torqued my E6 a couple years back, but I will always check after todays demonstration. It is time consuming to perform but it should be well worth the invested time to do the job right!

Thanks to all who posted their helpful opinions on this matter of correct valve timing.

GOOD JOB BUD

Apears to be an rd 800 or dmm your working on???

It has 584,000 + miles on it. The only work that was done to it before I bought it was a new cam at about 500,000. Thanks for the ideas. Nothing is ever easy is it???

Nope sure isn't!Whish you the best of luck!We Have had succes raising the liners and putting it back together!You run the risk of creating an oil burner if you don't deglaze and re ring throu!Some thing to try!! worst part is your right there at the rebuild point! and doing a patch job. ? the idea but if your budget isn't there your budget isn't there.ya got to do what you got to do!

I have a problem with anti-freeze squirting out of the small hole in the plastic cap on the recovery tank. It seems like the system is over pressurizing the top tank, forcing down into the recovery tank then out the weep hole.

At one point I'll have a full recovery tank, and an empty top tank ( then I get the warning lights and the engine turns it self off). The engine runs at normal temp and it won't suck anti-freeze back up from the recovery tank. I'm going to replace the cap on the top tank but other than that, anyone have any ideas???? A thought crossed my mind about sealing up that small hole but I didn't. I know it's there for a reason. It is a 98 CH w/427. thanks for your help. rob

Rob Theres been a problem with the liner protution on these engines anything pass 400 horse the liner protusion needed to be set at 28 thou .Unfortunatly the liner height in your engine is likly set at low spec for a low HP engine which will be aprox 22 !if the engine has any milage on it beyond say 300 thousand miles it maybe the liners are set too low. thousands of engines left the factory like this most lived a good life others din't cut the mustard depending on the job they were doing.

WHAT milage is on the engine????

sealing up the hole will do no good!You can try plugging the hole in the water pump to prove its not sucking air from there other than that I have no encoragment!Repairng the problem is just short of a rebuild entails up rooting the liners shiming them with 4 thou shims and resealing them IF they are Not too worn other wise!And installing new rings and deglazing the liners if reusable!

I see ya have the robert bosch pump did you set the valves on the v mark?

which injection pump do you have?

Robert Bosch ??

or

American Bosch??

yes it is fairly easy to do, and only will cost your time... however 350 is about the max "reliable" continuous duty rating an e-6 should run at.... can you get more you bet you can, should you only if you want to do a rebuild sooner than you normally would.

Anything much more than 350 and your pushing the limit.

You also have to be carfull how much fuel you give it BECAUSE you can crack the block if you over fuel to much!And you will have nothing to rebuild, I have seen em crack at the sixth main cap from being over fueled!That is why the block was changed when the e7 came along The main caps were then bolted to the block thru the sides simular to V8 !The same block used right from the 250 to the 454 The eteck block is also built in this fashion!The New VOLMAC engine is a total diffrent animal More complex mor volvoized!

The manual is telling you to set valves at tdc and that is telling you not to set on the exhast stocke and when it said tdc that is when the piston is at tdc but not at a perfect tdc because that cam is probley has the dynotard ground ramp in the exhaust close to the tdc and if you try to set exhaust valve at tdc you can be in the dynotard ramp and then when you get out of that the your valve will be too tight so they make another mark away from tdc then tell you to set the valves ther .I dont work on that engine but the 6 cylinders are like that and when you set the valves like you should then you can turn the engine over and check the clearance on the exhaust valve as you turn it and you will feel the engine brack ramp as it will have excess clearance at one point. hope you can under stand what i am try to tell you if not call me. glenn

Would you please clarifi if you have a V pump ( AMBAC) Or Robert Bosch! If you have robert bosch use the v pointer to set the valves . The p pointer is for instalation of the fuel pump! If your using the v pump then the tdc pump pointer valve set pointer are all the same one mounted right hand lower of the timing cover directly behind the AC pump if equiped!If the directions you have are not for the robert bosch style pump engine which was intoduced in the late 80s early 90s there will be no mention of the second pointer.the manul u are useing may not be for that engine! Rule of thumb ! If that engine has a STRAIGHT fuel pump ( ROB Bosch)

USE THE V Pointer to set valves If it has an ambac pump that looks like a mini v8 in the valley then use the tdc pointer to set valves.

By the way if it has the rob bosch pump the fuel lines can be a real bear to get sealed to the injectors ,be prepared to buy several injection lines before your done!

can anyone tell me what this is?inside the cab l/h side with side circuit breakers, is it low air buzzer???????thanks adrian

is it low air buzzer??????? I beleive you are correct

I've pulled the heads for a valve job and new head gaskets. Everything is nearing completion and I am ready to set the valve lash on the E9. It has the mack engine brake.

I have a Mack service manual for the motor and it says to set the valve lash at TDC which corresponds to the timing marks aligning with the P mark. My understanding is that this P references the Pump timing and the V mark references the valve timing. Somewhere, I've read where other Mack motors set their valves when the timing is set at the V mark.

Which is the correct procedure? Should TDC be aligned with the P mark or the V mark? I'm thinking that maybe someone set the gear timing wrong if the V mark should be TDC.

Now is the time to get this resolved while the motor is still out of the truck. I would appreciate any available expert advice on this motor.

Thanks

Did the front 2 MR's have MP-8's?, saw the extra cooling fans on the back. What was the failure. I'm dealing with a DPF injector failure on an MP-8 this morning, fun fun.

We are having to go thru all the dpf trucks as they come in, check all the coolant hoses and run em thru the regento make sure they funtion correctly it seems to be a comon occurance.Sure hope they nip this in the bud quickly! We got 4 mr dpfs we even got the first one that made the whole trip up here with out a break down!!!! Good sign EHH!!??? Yet another desaster???? Or learning curve??????????

Unless the destroking process on the air compressor takes longer than the purge, It will continue to pump air untill the destroking valve hold the valves open on the air compressor. Just had a 3176 cat in a t600 KW (part of Maxvilles fleet) that would continue to pump all day long. The culprit, a collapsed line from a governor to the compressor, but if your mack is like mine, the gov is bolted to the comp. Also, The o rings on the destroking valves could be old and cracked, I just ordered a "destroking kit" for the bendix tf 550 air compressor on that cat(the same as on my truck) that consists of a gasket and push rods with new o rings for a whole 15 dollars. Those valves are just under the cover on the head of the comp(right on top). If you need i can get a part #. Let me know.

You may have bad unloder orings in the compressor head depending on your compressor they can be easy or hard to change!

If you have a 700 bendix its easy if you have a 500 bendix its dificult!

take the small line off the air drier while the compressor is pumping between 90 and 130 if there is air coming out the line the problem is in the unloader !

wasnt working now i have sorted wiring out it was soon as you turned dynatard on it was coming on then i removed wire off injector pump and now it wont do anything but if i earth it too the pump it works?how do you adjust the sender ?thanks adrian

FIRST which pump do you have robert bosch or ambac? If its ambc you likly need to replace the triger tab inside the pump! BUT you can try backing the screw out till it works correctly! loosen the jam nuts on the out side and back the screw out 2 or three turns rev the engine and let it off it the brake works but shuts down after half the rpm range then your half way there. turn the screw in 1/4 at a time till if at top rpm the brake dosent come on! Snap the throtle at the top rpms Quickly and hold it at top rpm if the brake trys to come on ,back the screw out sum more! If it dosent come on turn the screw in till it comes on!Ya hve to mess with it a bit to get it right if you cant acheave a desent set where the brake comes on then shuts off at aprox 1000 rpm you likly need to replace the triger tab!the Rob bosch pump is the exsact oposite!

can anyone help someone told me the injector pump switch is adjustable is this true?also still having problems with the wiring can any help the relay in wired as follows terminal 30 power all the time-86 or 85 can be the earth or power from switch-87 power to dynatard.i have the earth off the relay going too injector pump??????is this correct

yes your relay does ground to the injection pump that is the triger for the relay. and yes it is adjustable to a point!!

What problems are you having? Is the engine brake sticking on?

I wouldn't tear into it till it becomes unbearable.but thats me!

Unless you have some sort of pre lube system your stuck!The system needs the oil preasure to operate correctly

Your best bet is to get some good used rockers and push tubes for a dynatard setup!The dynatard is built into the cam lobe and all the cams were the same .

Thanks, Macks seem to love fuel.

In my opinion you'll easy do 7 or so with that ratio! and resonable driving habits!

The 612 sounds like a single axle is it not?

Hello,

I just joined here and have been looking through the old posts. I don't own a Mack but I'm looking to buy one for work. The man says it's a 89 but he's not sure of the engine and tranny. He sent me photo's and it looks like I can use it. But I was wondering if there was a place to look up the VIN number to see what engine and tranny and so forth it had?

Thanks

Brian

Post the vin and the model maybe We can help some?

The E Tech engine has always had renaut cast into it every where the side of the block the valve covers its every where!