fjh

Thanks, Macks seem to love fuel.

In my opinion you'll easy do 7 or so with that ratio! and resonable driving habits!

The 612 sounds like a single axle is it not?

Hello,

I just joined here and have been looking through the old posts. I don't own a Mack but I'm looking to buy one for work. The man says it's a 89 but he's not sure of the engine and tranny. He sent me photo's and it looks like I can use it. But I was wondering if there was a place to look up the VIN number to see what engine and tranny and so forth it had?

Thanks

Brian

Post the vin and the model maybe We can help some?

The E Tech engine has always had renaut cast into it every where the side of the block the valve covers its every where!

Just opened a box of mack primary fuel filters pre E-tech no stripe and was always bright red the same color

mack has used since the 60's but NOOO they are now [cummins red] I'm sorry[volvo red] I'm sorry [MP-7 dark red with E-tech stripes.]

Why are the MP-7 red?? maybe its to trick the public when your new mack is dead on the side of the road with the hood open they will think its a cummins or maybe cummins must of had a bad batch of paint and mack got it cheap.

new service bulliten came out for MP-7 to update the water line to the air compressor its 15 pages of directions of parts to remove and they say it will take 2 hours?

Takes only 5 min on a real mack.

Count your self lucky!

You have the last of the best! HOLD ON to it.The Cl with e7 is the easiest serviced truck on the planet!

Volvo tends to complicate EVERYTHING they touch the trucks produced from here on will be as compicted as they can make em!Hate to say it BUT Simplicity of the mack line is gone.

I have an 89 superliner that I need some help on please read all the way through ..please feel free to call 704-507-2453 if you can help. My axles are CRDPC112 front and CRD113 geared 5.02, I need to gear them somewhere in the 3.87 to 4.17 range..and was hoping to find something out there used that would work and be cheaper than MACK dealer quote..here is the next probelm I also want unimount hubs and drums to fit these axles..the daytons I don't like and it is hard to find the dayton drums for these axle and even if I had a pile of dayton drums for these I would still want the unimounts. I have no VIn # for a truck with these heavy axles and unimount wheels and i am having trouble getting a mack dealer to help me research it. Thanks in advance Rob

if your runing a v8 the 417 387 ratio is a poor choice!The v8 will eat them for breafast if your pulling any weight! Middle of the road choice is 4.64! 5 02 change down requires a lot of gear changing and can get pricy!Good luck in your search thou used drop ins are your best bet.

I wasnt arguing that with you, i know cavitation can be a problem. I just wasnt sure if it was dry liner or not. That takes the liner seal out of the question. You could presureize the cylendar couldnt you? And the check if your pushing coolant out. Just make sure the piston your checking is at bottom. But being that its a 711 i would guess the that headgasket is the problem.

I'm not arguing at all ,just simply stating what can and has happened!IT takes and hour to pull the pan! and find out for sure, guessing at it can cost money!A pan gasket is cheap peace of mind at least youll no where your heading!If the block is cavitated you can cheat (This Is A PATCH) by up rooting the liner clean the bottom of the bore and the liner and apply red loctight around the bottom 1/2 inch of the bore and slide the liner back in!The correct thing to do is bore and sleeve!Depends on what you want in the end!

Well tonight I reinstalled the rebuilt governor assembly back on the truck. As king Richard used to say, "Man, What A Difference"!! There is a bit of a lengthy story to get to this point so bear with me through the details:

Upon dissassembly, the flyweights were found to already have oversized pins installed and the correct bushings were no longer available, and these were worn out. In fact when the pump was rebuilt once before with new pins installed, one of the oiler holes was not lined up properly so the pin and arm was starved for lubrication from the get go. Long story short is that I rebored, and reamed the holes in the flyweight(s), made new bushings to fit the new pins, installed new springs and thrust bearing, then hand cut the top, and rear cover gaskets, (they are no longer available). The gasket that sandwiches between the governor housing and the main pump body is still available, but at a different thickness necessitating fuel rack adjustment(s). As FJH said, it was a real somebitch to get the yoke back into the fuel racks. It sure was easier to get it apart!!

The engine now idles/runs steady at 725rpm with both the compressor running, and off. Off idle response is great. I need to shorten the adjuster on the throttle linkage as the engine will run much slower with this linkage disconnected. I've already run the idle adjust screw out as far as possible. It's determined the gasket at the governor housing is causing this as it is nearly 3 times as thick as the original. There is plenty of room for adjustment through the linkage.

Really appreciate the help and all the pointers here. I've got about 8.5 manhours into this thing but I usually work cheap on my own stuff. Besides, I've learned quite a bit and that is basically a miracle, (the learned part).

Thanks again,

Rob

You da man Rob! Agian good job !Idle should be set at 650 I hate it when they idle fast!

Remove the bolt 5/8 12 piont! clean out the hole a bit with brake clean Apply sealant to the washer and bolt head re install and torque to 90 foot pounds!

Here's what you get when you look up Mack powertrain facilities at macktrucks.com:

http://www.macktrucks.com/default.aspx?pageid=198

Note that it says"Volvo" Powertrain North America.

Kinda removes all doubt as to where this is going, doesn't it?

No kidding! Volvo land here we come!

Slow to operate can be lots of things these jakes were plegued with oil preasure problems!There were update kits avalible new spings spool s check valves ect. another possibility being the plugs in the end of the rocker shafts can pop out!Does the engine have external lines runing to the jake spacers on the left hand side???

Do check it out the line kit was just one of many fixes for poor response some were as deep as a diffrent oil pump and P 2 main bearings . Best to stick with external fixes this late in the game!You may have to pull the lids and have somone with a little experiance have a look see!

One thing I forgot to mention and I don't know if it matters...i have a slight oil leak on right side of engine by the # 1 and 2 cylinders. It looks like it's coming from right above the exhaust manifold.

Rob W.

Slow to operate can be lots of things these jakes were plegued with oil preasure problems!There were update kits avalible new spings spool s check valves ect. another possibility being the plugs in the end of the rocker shafts can pop out!Does the engine have external lines runing to the jake spacers on the left hand side???

The 711's with the large studs at the corners were notorious for having head gasket problems, so I'm betting that's where the trouble is.

These engines did not have the "fire rings" to seal the top of the liners to the head, therefore the head gaskets had to hold compression and combustion pressure as well as seal the water and oil passages between the heads and block.

Chances are that the heads haven't been retorqued in years (maybe decades), and the head gaskets themselves can deteriorate over time also.

Add to that the chance that the deck (top of the block) and the bottom of the heads may no longer be perfectly flat or smooth and theres a good possibility of seepage.

Yank the heads, check for cracks in the block & heads while it's apart, and put a new set of head gaskets in it

Follow the proper head bolt torquing procedure, and re torque after you run it for a day or two.

I would still pull the pan before the heads and preasurize!

Also just because its a dri liner dosent stop cavitation the block it self can still cavitate And leak between the liner and the block seen it happen!

Hello gents,

I am very new to this forum but I am now here and I will try to answer questions you might have about our merger with Volvo. Please also respect the fact that I will only be able to share information that I am allowed to share publicly.

First, let me present myself. I am a product features manager for Mack Trucks and I am located in the truck capital of the world: Allentown, PA sitting here at the Mack Trucks headquarters. I set feature targets that you all enjoy and appreciate in your Mack. My most important responsibility is perhaps keeping our Mack brand a Mack truck is supposed to be. We strive to live up to our Mack promise: Built Like a Mack Truck.

Let me tell you a little bit more about our Volvo merger. You might all be aware of the fact that most truck manufacturers in the world (much like the car manufacturers) have merged or purchased each other to create economies of scale for more efficient and cost effective production solutions. Therefore, Mack could not survive on its own without having a partner. Renault was the first one in the group and we are now 3 brands strong between Mack, Renault and Volvo.

I realize that Volvo might have done some mistakes with the White and GMC brands in the past. But I assure you that our group has learned a great deal from that experience. I think you will appreciate to know that Volvo AB values the Mack brand so much that they have invested millions of dollars for our Hagerstown facility where we now manufacture proprietary Mack and Volvo engines using shared technology. As some of you mentioned, our old engine was no longer competitive enough to pass EPA regulations and was simply outdated.

With our new engine platform, we are now not only able to meet stringent EPA regulations, but we are also able to offer your a wider horsepower offering while keeping the legendary MAXIDYNE, ECONODYNE and MAXICRUISE offerings. The new Mack engines are better in every way than our legacy product: better performance, better torque delivery, and better fuel economy. I think you will be impressed by our 11 liter and 13 liter offerings when you check them out at: http://www.macktrucks.com/default.aspx?pageid=1359.

Please keep posting about your concerns and I will try to answer the best I can.

I know this is a bit late and an old post but ,I have to say that the Volvo engine does look to be a decent power plant Mack guy!THIS IS THE ONLY UPSIDE TO MY COMENTS.

Having said that MackGuy ,I have worked, on , for and around Mack trucks for most of my working life 30 years OR SO ,as well as the volvo stuff fords kw PETES and the rest to some degree!The truck we sell now is a Volvo with a mack cab! DON'T KID US, THE volvo people have KEPT NONE, of the Good mack IDEAS ,NOT ONE! THE dog on the hood and the cab is all thats left.You take the cab off the frame its a volvo frame ,engine and abunch of jobber parts. SORRY its for the most part the truth I was once a proud mack guy now I work on Volvo stuff ,I have less kinder words for it but won't use it here!These Guys could have at least kept some of the simple Ideas and used them`NOT ONE did they keep! SO FAR ONLY THING I SEE that I MILDLY like is the engine IMPRESS me with some good old simple MACK stuff ont the rest of the truck ! Mack diffs mack trans mack built tough frames suspention yada yada!

Sorry had to rant!

l

Need help. I know where the timing marks are on the fly wheel for 1 & 6, 3 & 4, 2 & 5. But, I need to know how to find #1 TDC and what order to set the rest of the valves in. Do I set intake and exhaust at the same time on each cylinder? I took the the truck to shop today to have the valve timing set, and they really screwed it up. I need to get back on the road. Please advise.

Thanks,

FHI

The valve set marks are on the flywheel!Those marks you found ARE valve set marks!. Set in order of firing order if it has a jake set it at the same time!

Well, curiosity got the best of me and I pulled the governor from the back of the pump without removing the pump from the engine. Really a simple little contraption but took some engineering to make work.

Long story short is that $65.00 bought me new bushings, shafts, seals and gaskets, springs, and a good set of installation and calibration proceedure(s) from the local fuel injection shop.

Along the same lines as Michael had mentioned; I put the front axle in a ditch out front of my shop and the truck ran very smooth, and stable, without fluctuation at idle. I was surprised how smooth it actually is. It accelerates very well but at 40 MPH, it is hard to keep in one lane. The tie rod ends, and drag link are shot, shot , shot.

Since this truck will ultimately end up with my detroit engine, I really don't want to sink a lot of money unnecessarily into this V8.

Appreciate all the advice!!

Rob

Good job Bud!

The hardest part is geting the both racks engaged into the yoke!If ya miss one side you can have a big oh shit on your hands! Beender dondhat.

The other option you have is A 99 % pto off the lower counter shaft !Check the rear case may have stamped pto on it if so the hole is there!Remove the lower counter shaft cover and if it has a hole in it Your in business!

fit only for e-7 1993 to 1997!

no fit on e-7 E-tech 1998 & up!

The problem is the rad!You need 460 cooling if your going to up grade!For years they didn't offer the 460 in the MR Because Of this!

liner height 3 1/2 to 7 1/2 thousandths from top of deck

Proper Liner height for E7 Is 23 to 28 thou from the deck to the middle of the liner inside groove! Any horse power above 400 your asking for trouble at anything less than 25 thou!

I spoke with a gentleman referred here and he was very much aware of this problem. I'm going to pull the pump and nozzles and get them sent off to be done right. I don't need problems in the future!!

Thanks,

Rob

Rob be sure to set the engine on the timing marks BEFORE you pull the pump!This can be done by removing the little rectangle cover in front of the fuel pump and look for a small hole in the pump drive hub! Centre the hole in the window!

I work at a Mack Dealer and thank god there is another dealer in town that sells volvo so we cant. I dread the the day that we have to sell those dame trucks

I also work for a mack dealer !

We might not sell the volvo trash but you and I are working on it unfortunatly!The cab is now the only thing remotely Mack any more!

It is definately governor related, my EM6-300 did the same thing until I installed the fuel rack "patch" kit to stop the bouncing at highway speeds. All it consists of is a very light spring and a roll pin in the fuel rack.

Jeff

Not oil preasure related on this engine!

this is comon to the ambac pump !The governer is your culpret!The problem can be addressed by a (GOOD) fuel shop,

The governer can be removed and repaired for less than 1000 bucks!

Thanks R609

A more reliable way to Identify 44 houseing ,is the 44 is cast steel ,the 38 is a welded housing!

WELL AFTER TRYING EVERYONE AND THEIR BROTHERS ADJUSTMENT. NOTHING WORKED, SO I PULLED THE TRANS. AND FOUND THE PRESSURE PLATE WAS THE PROBLEM. WHILE THE PLATE WAS ON THE FLOOR, YOU COULD SEE THE CENTER COLUMN WAS OFF TO ONE SIDE AS IF THE SPRINGS ON ONE SIDE WERE WEAK. COULD NOT SEE ANY THING WRONG INSIDE. I WAS WRONG ON THE MILEAGE, I CHECKED MY MAINTENANCE RECORDS AND IT HAS 17,000 MILES ON IT (EVEN WORSE) IT WAS A NEW CLUTCH, NOT A REMAN. SPICER SAID WARRANTY IS ONE YEAR, I'M 1 YEAR PASSED THAT. I HAD SPICER CHECK THE TORQUE RATING AND IT WAS THE RIGHT CLUTCH SETUP. SO NOW I HAVE 2 NEW DISCS AND A VERY LARGE PAPER WEIGHT! HAULED A LOAD OF WATER TODAY AND EVERYTHING SEEMS GOOD.

Well I'm sorry to hear that, Sounds like you tried everything The fact that they are not standing behind that clutch bothers me ,With that low of miles regarless of the year warrenty I would do a little badgering and see if they will kick in a little on the price of that second clutch!

I looked into buying new frame rails for my RW700 superliner the other day and was told that the specific heavy ones for mine were not available anymore. I also loked over a new CL700 they had sitting on their lot , so I got the tape out and measured the frame up. It had what apears to be the same shape and thickness rails with alot of extra holes in the front of the frame. I wonder if CL rails would work on my RW project.

CL MH RW all have comon frame!The RW shared the same frame with with the w model cab over and when the MH cabover came out The RW shared that frame with the MH When the MH was fazed out the CL took the frame over! Until the Volvo people got hold of things !Now its all Volvo trash. The cab and the Bulldog is all that remains.I beleive the MR is still its own truck ,But likly not for long!If you get a chance to compare a mack to a Volvo some day take a close look at the Simular if not exsact frames bracketry as Volvo /Autocar<From the Cxn / VN to the pinicale / Autocar

Remember to take the ratio off the flat spot off the front lh side this will aid in your search.

The most comon failure o 4:17 - 4:42 ratio is the top gear set the spur pinion rarely fails but it does happen from time to time!

Usually the clamp plates back off!