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Ok - I just shot these images of the rear shifter module from both sides - looks like it might be the one from the right side of the truck, ( upper image) I would imagine the wire goes to the backup beeper and dash light.

Do I just remove the 4 bolts on the end of the unit to access the shifter O rings?

No you have to remove the whole module! (Shiftlid) its a breeze on tht model of truck You can have it out of there in less than an hour!If your hving an intemitant revers problem still it maybe the larger cyl causing the problem there is a lock out pin in the lid,If the spliter does not make center for any reason the reverse air shift will be locked out!

When you get the lid off check to see that the set bolts are tight on the shift yokes in the lid that is the first check of the day!

If one or both are loose remove and apply locktight and re assemble. If not remove the cover of the big piston and check for any rust or broken snap ring.

I was going to guess a early 90's with manual e7 400

E7 no side covers is the give away.

And mech pumps were offered on lower hp a few years beyond e pumps.

That is compound low!

reverse is on the rear shift cyl that looks the same size as that one back shift lid.There is a switch on the dash for that one.

check the tach sensor on the left side of the bellhousing,I have had the plug spread on some rd690s,rd690p 2001 and found that to fix it.

More stuff to try!

asuming it is vmac 1 or 2 Not eteck and IF it happens any old time ,also asuming you have no fault light on ,In my opinion you need to have the fuel pump plug repined take it to a dealer and have them put new pins on the fuel pump conector.this very often will cure the problem.

next (IF) the problem happens when the engine gets warm Get a bucket of water and pour it over the back part of the fuel pump then try start the the unit if it starts the fuel pump needs to come off and needs internal repairs try these two things first the water trick is the odvious cheaper of the two (IF) your symtom is as discribed.

Note This info is provided from the Mack book of hard knocks and is not writen in any manual on the face of the planet to the best of my knoledge..

I honestly would not put a Jake brand brake on my personal truck however the Powerleash Mack brake is awesome with fewer parts to go wrong. I have worked at a Mack dealer for 22 years and have seen many failures of Jake parts cause major damage to the engine. Just my .02 cents

Agree with that whole heartedly both counts 68.

mertor trans are junk..lot of problems with platform g electronics.

even if the cam is replaced in an e-tech has the over head been run as per dealer???

it went from 150,000 for 1st overhead to 100,000 to 50,000!!

just cause it had a cam replaced doesn't mean its good to go!

i've put 3 cams in the same truck due owner refusing to preform overheads!!!

We rarely see cam failures in my area now and there are still lots of trucks out there!

Do a valve set every so often And your good to go!Aint nothing wrong with the earlier etecks!

Eteck and egr Well lets not go there!AI engines are still fair !beleive it or not They can be made to pull and get desent milage.

But its a secret!

Do you mean from the factory or just jacking out the rack?

Glen I was sent this by mackcl96 Don't no how true it is cause I never seen one.

Hello,

Mack did a E6-400 in 89

Mack also had E7-400 90

Mack always said 350 tops on E6 but they wanted to see what would happen at 400HP before they stop using the E6 altogether. It was a probably a inside bet with the tech guys at Mack.

I don't know how they made out but if it was not going to work they would have a E7 to save the customer.

If your like me you never seen one but dosent make it so.

They were few and far between if it did happen.

hi hello iam in the process of ordering an engine kit for my truck but the guy on the phone keeps asking me for a engine id code . Does any body know what the engine code starts with either a letter or number or is it a series of numbers my engine is a 1974 endt 673 mack would anybody know thanks

The serial no for the engine is stamped on the flat spot just in front of the fuel pump just above the top 2 fuel pump mounting bolts!

I'm not much of a mechanic so don't know why someone would only bore one sleeve bore, then not be able to tell, (by feel) the excessive clearance of using a standard sleeve. The sleeve would slide into the bore much too easily.

Sure hope you get it back to where it needs to be.

Rob

It is quite common to bore one hole I beleive there were actualy 2 thou over liners avalible at one time and you could hone the hole out to fit em if the liner slid in to easy.

the tp turbine fan is the same concept as the charge air cooler there would be almost no point in cooling the air twice!The tip turbine fan trickles off a little boost preasure to run a small air driven fan that is doing the same job passing ambiant air over heated boosted air same as the charge air cooler .WHY waste the boost.The only small benifit to the

TT would be the short distance of the plumbing from the turbo to the inlet manifold vs the 6 ft of plumbing on a chassis mount.A chassis mount can be done to almost any engine in a vehicle.

Also Im not sure cause I have worked for mack for most of my life but the first charge chassis mount charge air I saw on a mack came out with the E9 engine.I beleive mack used it first weather or not they invented the idea is another story.

Up to that time no oneelse was using air to air it was always water to air.shortly after the e9 Every body started using the chassis mount cooler.

My 2002 Pre Emission 427 has a leak that is running down the block right in back of the oil cooler. I'm assuming it is the cooler leaking. I have to bring the truck home for service next weekend and I'm wondering what kind of job it is to replace the seals????? This truck sat from January 08 to November when I bought it. I'm surprised that this is the only leak so far. I serviced it before I put it on the road and boy did it smell bad out of the breather and it had a ton of blowby. After about a week the smell went away and the blowby is down about 2/3rds. She is running great now. I dosed it up with Howells for about the first 5 tanks of fuel. So, is the oil cooler seals something I can do when I service, or do I need a couple of days????

Its not that big of job to do just be sure you got all the parts.

Hi there

I have a 1999 mack ch. When I bought it did not came with a engine brake, so I purchase the engine brake and Installed, this truck uses the jetec engine brake. Now, I have a question, is there any diferences between the engine that comes with engine brake with the engine that do not come with engine brake. The camshaft are different?, maybe someone that can help me out?

Best Regards

nope its an addon no cam!There were alot of oil preasure issues with

the j brake external oil line add ons yada yada!Some times bearing and oil pump changes.

What problems are you having.

Hey all, pulled engine apart today found more than one issue, ran engine with the fenders off to get a better look before dissassembly, found the rear head gasket leaking blowing oil bubbles out where the head meets the block, pulled intake, ex, and heads, found that the #2 cylinder sleeve had a large crack almost the whole length of the sleeve, pulled piston and found a large chunk below the top compression ring was missing, also found that there are two different style heads on the engine the front head had 5/8" corner studs and the rear head has 3/4" corner studs. On a positive note, found that the bottom end was gone over some what recently the bearings look great, no scratches or copper showing through the babbet

What ever ya do don't reuse the injectors with out having em tested that likly caused the failure!

also check the injector hole for 2 washers!

CAN HIBRID ENGINES BE MADE USING MACK EM6 / E6 AND MACK E7 ENGINES????

LETS SAY A EM6 CYLINDER HEAD, TOPPING AN E7 BLOCK??????

I SAW A BLACK MACK WICH STATED EM6 400 HP....

ARE THERE ANY 400 HP MACK EM6 ?????

THANKS FOR YOUR TIME....

350 is the max for e6

Thanks Mackpro, we'll try the number and see, like you said it couldn't hurt.

we have seen this happen with oil sensors as well!All out of warrenty A real bummer!

Good luck with a policy claim.

Hello - I just bought a 1990 Superliner Dump truck and it just don't want to go in reverse. If I fuss with it long enough it goes in and works fine but 90% of the time when I move the splitter over to reverse nothing happens.

By the way, I hope I'm doing the sequence right. I put the transmission in nutural, then i move the spliter to reverse. Is this correct ?

Any ideas on what I might check.

Thanks in advance!

Mike

You may have a brokren snap ring in the split cyl!(The bigger left hand cyl)The shift lid has an interlock pin that will hold out reverse if the spliter does not fully go into neutral.If you have to fiddle with the air shift to get an intermitant reverse this may be the case!loose shift rail bolt is another common thing.

Go to the dealer and get a rebuild oring kit and tare into it !

The deep reduction is commonly locked out on the 12 speed

meaning it will only work in first gear low high split and reverse.

I second that!

2004-2005 year pleged with problems by newer or older 99-2003

hey all, opened the drain plug in the pan after work today, no coolant present, oil came out, was hoping this was the issue, of course not, i did run the engine for a bit, to check the smoke out again, took a while its a whopping 16ºF up here, i did notice a billow of smoke on combustion strokes comming out of the oil fill cap in the valve cover not a steady stream and also noticed that the exhaust manifold was not as hot at #4 cylinder as the remainder of the cylinders im going to assume that this is the trouble one, i will open the injector lines at each cylinder to make sure that it is #4 as HK trucking had suggested as well,

thanks everyone for the help and ideas

Mike

Youll likly nailed it with the injection line thing but remove the exhast manifold will likly confirm a wet hole!

Mack makes 2 different oversize H-rings that will fit tighter in the bore. It just sucks that you have to pull the head when you install them. We usually pull both heads and cam and check all H-rings for proper height and position. We see this quite often when the rocker arm shaft hold down bolts break on powerleash engines (AI and AC ASET engines) and the customer keeps driving. Usually breaks the creramic roller lifter and knocks the H-ring loose.

Good info 68 we have had no failures of this nature even thou weve had sum broken bolts, but this is good info on the h ring Thanx for posting it!Most of our customers shut the engine down when the poping starts!

I find that some of the test questions that cummins has on the promotions traing has to be written by young guys that are smarter than i will ever be but dont know much about real live engines. I seems some question will be nothing more than to find out if you can be tricked or not in the question in the study material. I hate this new stuff. The bad thing is it is to be done ever year because of newer and faster electrical componts. It is so much different than when i started in 65 .You need to be willing to work and keep your job clean and be willing to learn but now no one can keep up with it all. glenn

Glen That is all because they want the new teck guys to attend law school to learn to read the half assed gobaldy gook they write for the manuals theses days!That Insite program is awsume thou.Wish the mack guys had taken more pages from that book.

Hi Folks,

I was just at a friends shop and he showed me a repeat problem he has with a E-7 engine. It seems the H ring that prevents the lifter from rotating has moved too far up it's bore. That caused cam and lifter failure. The manual talks only briefly about this condition but gives no remedy for it. Has anyone else seen this? What can be done to correct it? I seems the H ring only relies on interference fit to prevent rotation.

Chuck

Sorry I cant help ya We do have the tool for install at work but have never used it!H rings have never been an issue.

hey all engine is a ENDL 673, im gonna check all the easier stuff prior to pulling it apart i dont feel that it would be a coolant issue because of the smell of the smoke, antifreeze has a distinct smell when it is heated and the smoke dont smell like that plus the oil is normal color if there was coolant in it, it would be circulated by the oil pump and make the oil look like a chocolate milkshake, but i will check all the ideas that everyone has offered, i also was reading about the head gaskets and if the head gasket is leaking at an oil galley the combustion pressure/exhaust could virtually get forced back down to the crankcase which would cause some blow by, but to the extent that this one does im going to assume the worst, the engine does have some oil seepage where the heads meet the block, thanks everyone for the imput, ill keep everyone updated with the progress, plus if i have to pull it apart it will force me to clean everything and paint it up nice before reassembly

thanks all

Mike

do keep us updated!

If you have one bad hole the blow by would puff back at you at the fill tube!

If its a steady pume you may have another issue!If the engine is turboed it can be the turbo!

I would check Glens theroy first if its asteady plume, a simple check!crack the drain plug in the morning see what ya see!

Did that piss the owner off? What kind of damage, (if any) to the lower end of the engine? I've never thought an engine could go anywhere near 50,000 miles on conventional oil no matter what the "on board" filtration system may be.

Fresh oil at frequent intervals is relatively cheap insurance to me. Think I'll stick with once per year in my hobby trucks, and 10,000 miles with my work trucks. Oil samples concurr with my routines.

Rob

50000 was his intended target with shaffers oil!Having said that ,the oil he was using to this point was esso 15/40 the sludge biuld up is mostly because this is an egr engine!He went 5000 over his normal interval of 15000 miles.Intends to run chevron 400 for a short period then swap over to Shaffers next month.We,ll see!I hope I have convinced him to stick to a proper servce interval!I opened his eyes a bit wider by cutting into this filter.Oils in an egr engine really soak up carbon!the evidence is in that filter.

That spiner is one of the best things Mack used since the inseption of the 4 valve e6!

Volvo should have takin a page from one of the many good mack ideas on this one!

They remove a whole lot of goo from the oil as you can see.

A WORD TO THE WISE This Is a picture is a spinner Filter from an AC 460 Engne

If any of you intend on useing extended life oils ie: pensoil shaffers ect be very atentive of this filter!

After 20000 miles the filter is plugged ,this guy was planing on a 50000 oil change interval .If any of you intend on extended intervals indend on changing this filter at least every 10 to 15 thou miles.