fjh

I Post this question only after searching the Forum and not finding information on exactally the combination of engine and injection pump that I am dealing with. I have a 1976 R model Mack with a ENDTB675 engine rated at 235 hp. It has a United Technology "Mack" Injection pump. Pump # is APE 6BB110T6648A1. This truck has a 5 speed Single stick tranny. I would like to get annother 10-15% out of this engine. It sat for almost 7 years prior to being put back on the road early last year. We obviously have replaced fuel filters ( many times untill we actually washed the rusted steel fuel tanks out) It tops out at 2200RPM under light load, which is fine, and runs quite smoothly, but I can't mantain 50mph on a moderate hill with an empty 26' City aluminum dump And it is VERY slow accelerating up through 4th and 5th gears. This injection pump has the pressed steel cover on the govenor that is at a 45 degree angle sloping towards the rear of the pump held on by four 1/4 inch bolts, and the round heavy steel cap on the rear end of the pump also held in place by four 1/4 inch bolts that has the heavy spring inside of it. If the "puff eliminator" is the cylinderlike extension on the front of the pump it is not hooked up, as there are NO lines from the intake manifold to the injection pump, but there are suspiciously similar 1/8" brass plugs on both the end of this cylinder and on one of the small ports in the intake manifold. I get NO smoke at full throttle, and have never had the engine temp over 200 on a VERY hot day. Mostly the engine temp stays at 180-185. The throttle lever on the pump is new, and the fuel stop lever gets put into full open when the dash knob is put all the way in. The foot throttle when fully depressed fully extends the throttle lever into the "spring over" position.

I don't have a pyrometer on this truck yet, but am thinking that I will if I can succesfully turn it up or make it work properly. I have pictures of this pump that I can send to soon.

Matt

pics please lid off! Make sure were on the same page!

there should be a 9/16 sized nut under the cover loosen it and turn the allen screw counter clock wise one turn put the lid on and try it! Its been years since I messed with these so bare with me!If that makes the problem worst go the other way on the allen screw 2 turns!

I have an EGR valve plunger/diverter break but the electronic actuator was still good. It can easly be removed from the valve and plugged in to the engine harness. The EECU would still think it's there . All it does is open/close to regulate the flow of oil to move the EGR valve plunger/diverter back and forth to let exhaust to the egr cooler. I will try it tommorow.

I just can't be bothered removing the stuff ! simply plug the egr with a plate beneath the egr valve and run with it! It seem s to be just fine other than throwing the egr code it does not hinder performance according to the customers that I have helped with this! the big bonus is no more cooler failures no heating and cooling to crack them.

I Have 95 e7 427 , I get about 34 psi, I can get my pyro up to about 1100 if I let her lugg down to about 1300 rpms ,but as soon as it hits 1100 , I grab a lower gear . I also run with a guy that has 99 rd with the 460 . he has the thirteen speed and his runs really strong . So I believe your air cooler has a leak or you got something else going wrong

With what your getting right now you should have some black smoke while pulling!

hello I have a 04 granite that will over heat and shut down going up a grade empty or loaded. I cleaned the radiator for debris so its getting airflow through the cooler. It has a mechanical fan that Is turning and the coolant is good. the truck has 300000 miles. thanks DG

Check to see if it has a coolant screen on the lower rad hose it may be pluged!

Here comes the questions boy's...I'm driving a 99' RD model tri-axle dump with the 460 motor & 8LL eaton tranny & this thing has no balls, it only makes 20-25 psi of boost & the pyro reads anywere between 950-1100 degree's loaded, I've driven 350 hp mechanical motored that would blow the fricken door's of this thing loaded or empty...It sounds like there's a leak coming from the turbo when you really jump on it, is that what's causing it ya think ??? What should a 460 motor put out for boost & how hot should the pyro get @ max...Also I think a motor mount is shot because when you shift it you can almost feel the motor twist the shifter right out of your hand...When my boss said you got the Mack I just about hugged him, now I want to punch him

Check the compresor inlet hose runs from the under side of the engine inlet manifold to the compressor intake !Betch its got a hole in it! You have a leak some where for sure look for torn or or blown hoses on the after cooler also!Boost leaks!

If the exhaust blades are being chewed up it may be the exhaust manifold (rusting) deteriorating on the inside and flaking off,,,,,killing the blades

Can't stress this enough!!!!

Clean all turbocharger failure debris from the air cleaner and inlet air ducts.

Clean all debris from the exhaust manifold.

take the whole intake piping set up apart right back to the air cleaner to check for peices and replace the air cleaner while your there!I have seen peices imbeded in the air cleaner from turbo failures. they can recycle them selves thru the new turbo and your back to square one ya realy need to dump out the after cooler as well, (althou it is a good filter) little bits can somtimes get thru and if they dont burn up in the engine they could possibly go thru!

The fuel preasure should not drop below 20 psi the engine requires at least that to run properly! 25- 30 is best!There is a tee at the front of the fuel pump on the return line check that the spring is not broken inside that!It sounds like a definate fuel starve problem your chasing!

The other manifold thing you speek of sounds like a fuel heater is there coolant lines running to it!?

I am trying to locate where the air dryer is located on my CH613.

The build sheet shows that it left the factory with a Bendix Meritor air dryer, but I cannot find it on the truck.

I'm thinking the prior owner removed it.

Any ideas?

Check behind the rh fuel tank inside the frame rail!

That's what I was thinking, but they temporarily used them again on some early E-Techs.

We now use anairobic sealant on the liners it seems impervious to coolant once set!

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers.htm

Hi Rob. I think fjh may be right. I've never noticed the noise referred to, but most of our trucks carry tire chains year round. The "T" blocks are more or less a means of limiting the travel of the spring side to side. The lighter suspension setup (I think only the SS34 but maybe the SS38 too) doesn't use the blocks.

Ive seen them with out the T blocks but very seldom! usually a 38 suspention in a tractor would be void of these!A gravel truck most always had em 38 0r 44.I'd be looking for a cracked drive shaft of bad ujoint if it had a ringing noise thou the spring box plates would be more of just a rattle clanking sound going over bumps I would think!

Sounds like it may be time to pull the pan and check some bearings! The fuel might be coming past the lower injector o-rings which would wash fuel down the cylinder rather than leak from the high pressure fuel line. As for the coolant content in the oil, I can't remember exactly when they stopped using o-rings on the liners in production, but at some point the liner o-ring was replaced with a bead of silicone applied to the counterbore. Over time the silicone can deteriorate. You may have an eroded counterbore allowing coolant to slip past the OD of the liner. Before worrying too much about that I would check the injectors, o-rings, etc as these won't require too much time to check.

The most comon fuel in oil thing is injector orings , they get hard over time they can leak back up and by the hold down screw as well as previously described .as for the liner leak ,I beleive the liners orings were done away with long before 92 ,

Sounds more like driveline noise rather than suspension noise. Check the drive splines in the driveshaft, dust/debris collars on the shafts for broken welds allowing independent rotation, and loose/dry universal joints or yokes.

Rob

The spring boxes have steel side blocks that sit loose in the box thats likly the sound you hear.

It does not quit drops cylinders then all 6 work then drops etc.....

There is external lines on already. I bought used with 200k on it.

Don't laugh! Silly question !!? is there oil in the engine?I once had a guy come to the shop With this jake complaint ,I when thru the tests with the gauges on the heads!

Went to pull the pan to check the pump and much to my horror I got Less than 8 liters / quarts of oil from the sump Think I might have found the problem?????

I decided not to pull the pan .Anyway we went thru this senario many times the best fix was the oil pump and tigher main and rod bearings!

Torque to 220 and as for as using old bolts it is ok if not piited or stretched and i dont know the length but i always run the engine foe maybe 10000 miles and retorque. I do not know what mack says to do any more but some here are dealer techs and can say. But for years i have always torque it when hot and i back off each bolt one at atime then retorque and you can mark them and you will always gain it the torquing so i say the clamping is better after a retorque. I think the newer gaskets is a no torque but to me the clamping is a gain in doing so. Free advice again.

I wouldnt fuss over a retorque but Glenns schedule is a good one if you going to 10000 miles is a good number.

Let me say something may help you here. If boost is only problem i would say many things may be problem other than turbo.A couple common problems with low boost is throdle may not be getting full throdle and that means your foot ant mashing your motor down. Another common thing is boost leaks at air/air cooler and that could be from air piping hoses or the cooler its self leaking.Another thing is fuel problem cause it takes fuel to get boost.

To add to what Glen has said !If the throtle is not going full the rpms will come up short as well with the boost leak thing you will likly be seeing alot of black smoke while under load and a high pyro reading if you got one!check the cheap and easy before buying a turbo!

Ok who wants to guess on final cost with new #6 PUMP and everything else that breaks on teardown?

Within $2.55 wins a coooookie.

7632.55

Sorry QC, when I looked at this earlier I thought it said $754.00 parts and labor for the engine brake. They want $754.00 just in labor? Installing the parts in the brake housings (which is what it looks like the second part of the quote is for) should take about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Bring it to their attention and see what they'll do.

rhasler >The labour on the quote looks a little out to lunch don't cha think . 24 hours seems tops in my my mind for the whole job jakes included! Don't forget your probably dealing with a service writer who is looking at two seperate operations from a book or puter screen when they are actually combined jobs.

What is their shop rate !

Here is the estimate, does this look right?

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looks like their charging for the valve cover gaskets twice.We have been just replacing the failed lifters and cam as of late Is the cam kit nesesary ?And the labor seems high 2700 maybe!

750 to rebuild 2 jakes already off the engine to do a cam,? seems a tad rich! Their shop rate must be in outer space!

Get em to quote the hours!

I'd price around a bit ! If your able!

Hey,1 Other thing...1st-5th gear the boost Barely reaches 10lbs loaded or unloaded no diff..I really only start to build boost around 6th gear on.Is this common? I would have to think its not,but this truck has me second guessing EVERYTHING!

We cant tell what others know about things, so there are good , soso and bad tecks, Guys that learn from books and (Thats all ) Theres seat of the pants guys Like me that don't hang on every word spoken in the manual till I see it for myself and guys that can kind walk down the middle of those two lines and dabble from both pots.I don't know if the guys you go too have the where with all to boost / exhast check. We saw a need and we invented a way!Some People hang on everything thing the puter tells em, I Don't I try and apply everything I have learned over the past on a problem!Unfortunatly These skills have been hampered by todays tecknowizardry you now need the puter as they have taken away all the sences we used to use, we now relay on computers and guess work.guy on the other end of the phone saying well maybe try this!

Anyway if you can ask em to open up all the parramiters in the/ rpm, road ,speed ,road, speed limit, Engine Droop remove any derates that that could cause un explained issues in power and see how it goes!

68 pro or rhasler seem to have a good handle on the puter end of things they may be able to shead a little more light on this ,as to tell em where to go and what to change in the program.

I understand you cant know what it is just from what someone says..Im just looking for some advice on where to start myself,so I dont have to pay the 120$ an hr shop fee. Im going to check the intake again tomorrow...If I spray starter fluid on the intake and surounding area and there is a leak, will the idle race? Also, I checked the impellors and shaft for play on the turbo (and its fine) but someone had mentioned to me that the vanes might not be opening as they should from time to time...This problem I have is VERY intermitten. Does it sometimes and runs great sometimes...When I start the truck first thing and get going it runs like a champ...its when it heats up the turbo starts to scream like a wild boar and looses alot of its pull. Thats what made me think I had an intake leak somewhere (heat=expansion causing leak was my guess)

broken studs exhast gaskets plegued these engines all tended to make em squeal! but the boost didnt dart around as you discribe! as was stated preasure check will tell the tale but ya got to have the equipment to do so!Weve made a tool to test the whole system for leaks

A cap to plug the exhast and intake of the tubo, you can put 40 psi on it and everything that leaks WILL show up!

Hey, Im new to mack and this forum so bare with me. I recently picked up a 2006 chn613 with a e-7 427 in it. Truck currently has 290,000 miles on it. I have filed bankrupcy since buying this truck due to the crazy amount of down time and shop fee`s on chasing a problem that has never been fixed OR FOUND. Im not that truck savy on diagnostics or anything..Im a parts changer at best but I know when there is a problem. The truck has lost power problem for the past 2 years. Ok,so the boost comes up incredibly slow,(sometimes only build boost once I hit 5th gear) the boost squeals rather than has the normal high pitch clean wistle. The boost sound fluctuates up and down along with the boost gauge (back and forth from 32lbs-25lbs) rapidly. Sometime the boost will spike and hold 40lbs but makes no real power. I dont know what to do and I have alot of trouble trying to explain the problem. Has a new egr,new intercooler,new cooler plumbing,some new boost sensor (? on the driver side firewall?)injector pumps, I get alot of codes popping on the truck but none of them pan out most often is 3-4(forgot what that was) but was told by the mech that there is NO ISSUES AT ALL with the truck. Does anyone have any idea of what this could be or what I could do to check for any intake leaks or if the turbo is bad? Ill spend the money to fix it one last time, and after that if I get nothing out of it Ill have to close shop and go back to being a company man if im lucky. Please help!!!! Thanks so much for your time!!!!

Sorry man theres just too many things to look at to just say its this!It sounds like a sticking egr valve or turbo actuator from here but! As I said its somwhat hard to call with out seeing the unit! Maybe somone else could stick their neck out here but I,m not going to encourage you to spend any more money chasing rainbows!

Somthing that does come to mind thou is if you are not the origanal owner of this truck remove the boost bypass hose and valve and check to see that noone has put a plug in that line that is floating back and forthI seen that happen and it will pound the needle off the end of the gauge.

I think it should have steel lifters installed from the factory but I'll have to check. Steel roller lifters look like steel (shiny metallic finish) while the ceramic lifters have a flat black appearance.

Check the push tubes!I beleive if they have springs on em you got ceramic lifters!68 pro will have the particulars on a cam swap for 355/380 I believe there is alot to change for that jump !the cam key is just the tip of the berg!

I had an older V-8 that I did that to and it worked. I already tried that by taking them apart to clean them with no luck.

Bro I really think ya need to check for boost leaks!Any hot 500 I have worked on put out 30- 34 psi boost If your putting out 600 plus you can't do it with 27 psi, ya better have a look for boost leaks!pyros likly heating and the inter cooler can't keep up!Beleive me your barely 450 at 27 psi.

i don't think my engine brake is what it should be????????????

on a 6% grade grossing 72,000 if im run in 6th gear thats about 25mph i still have to touch the brakes now and then to keep it from over reving, in 7th about 30mph i have to use brake quite a bit, in 8th gear around 40mph i have to hold constant preasure, to keep it off the rev.

i know some engine brakes are not as good as other, same make, modle, year, miles,and so on

i don't have a lot of experriance out west, so im not sure if this is normal, or is something wrong with my E.B.

GRANDDAD, taught me get in low enough gear you run just below the rev limit and never touch the brake, but granddad never went west.

Do you got p leash or jake!??? I aint never seen no jake on any thing newer than maybe 05 ,when the power leash came out we droped the jake and used the power leash around here!

The p leash is good!Ya need to keep the rums up to have good hold back!

I have a 1993 CL 713 with the e-7 400 v mac engine. It runs fine but has started shutting down the fuel shutoff valve inside the Bosch injector pump. Can I get to that shut off valve with out removing the injector pump? Has anyone else had the same problem? Thanks, John

Try unpluging and repluging the fuel pump plug together half a dozen times if this makes the problem go away the problem is with the pins in that plug, have the pins replaced at the dealer!The pump will likly have to come off to be repaired other wise.