fjh

Thanks fjh I didn't snap onto what MackPro is saying til you said that. Does the high boost pressure mean I need a new boost relief valve? It seems to have plenty of power and the fuel mileage is good. Maybe my gage is wrong?

Woe is me. I'm a worrier so I better check this out.

Nope Jerry yours is on the money if you push it on a cold day you can hit 38 with a 460.that turbo will put out far more air than your engine can use but with out more fuel more air is useless!I have personaly pluged the by pass valve ,It will bang the boost gauge off the end of the gauge.ya don't want to go there.

The waste gated turbo is designed to put no more than 33 psi into that year, FOR WHAT ever reason, These engineer types put a derate in there at 33 psi, As if more air would hurt the engine

WHAT EVER!

I found a picture of the pressure tester made by fjh. By capping off both ends of the turbo and airing it up you can test the entire charge air system at once and it's quick

We have had problems with the waste gated turbo before the waste gate Maybe stuck open or not sealing properly!As 68 mentioned 33 psi boost is max before derate on those engines!

Could someone give me step by step instuctions, on how to adjust my valves? Or a site to go to? Went to Jacobs site, but can't print anything till tomorrow.(ran out of ink)

Will I need any odd ball tools?

Thanks in advance.

The valve set marks are on the flywheel !peer thru the hole at the bottom of the engine bell houseing look for valve set marks center them in that hole, in engine rotation firing order 153624 start on 1 valves overlapping on N0#6 set N0# 1, 16 intake, 24 exhast, 15 to 21 on the jake,move the flywheel to the next set of numbers in the firing order( 5 )valves will be overlaping on (2) set 5 and so on! pretty basic.

Did you enjoy the view? eh?

Montana looks like my part of Canada EH!

I need some help figuring out a Cummins M-11 engine shut down problem.

I know this is a Mack site, but since my CH-613 runs like a tank and does not break down I don't tipically need this type of help.

Here is the issue: Once the M-11 warms up it will hesitate and sometimes shut down intermitantly. It will crank back up however. It shuts down both at idle and under a load.

I replaced the fuel solenoid. Still have the same problem.

The fuel caps are locked, I have the only key and all fuel is filtered to 10 microns with a Cintek hydrosorb and particulate filter so I don't think fuel quality is an issue.

I'm thinking its the fuel pump or worse, the ECM. I have also heard others say that it may be the engine position sensor or engine crank sensor.

I welcome and appreciate any comments.

Go to the heavyduty section on this site http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/index.php good info site.the posistion sensor under the compressor somtimes gives problems on these!check your engine grounds and battery conections!

bull husk has it right.

the tip turbine was powered off of boost that was bleed/regulated from the hot side of the intake system. The boosted air would spin the turbine and the impeller on the other side of the turbine would thus suck in cool air from the air filter. this cool air was forced to pass thry the charge cooler and would cool the boosted air. the air would simply exit the charge cooler and exhaust out in the engine bay. It was basicly a complacated way to get air to move over a surface. not sure if intercoolers were to expencive or if BBC dims were a part of the compact design?

the tip turbines I saw were normaly a 285 HP Maxidyne but there was a model known as a 300+ or 315HP that was a Econodyne and had a air to water cooler under the charge cooler. it used the standard charge cooler but also used the trucks coolant system for intake temp control. I have heard that the early 350HP had the tip turbine/water combo as well but I have not seen one in person.

the charge cooler only 285 was a very good engine. only thing that was a PITA was all the extra intake piping on the top and side of the motor. a good running turned up 285 can keep up or do better than a stock 300.

I have heard that the early 350HP had the tip turbine/water combo as well. This is a fact!

All the above posts are valid coments ,No real advantage or disadvantage the frontal air cleaned up the engine compartment mostly the tip turbine engine likly would give a little less turbo lag not really noticable to the average guy!And as usual the frontal air was paving the way to the 4 valve engine that was the main reason for the change.No real advantage or disadvantage

Bigen finally made it to the shop, Hope to get him up to snuff on the matainance and upgrades.

I'm jealous . If you ever get a haul for where you are to Vancouver Island You need to stop and at least say HI!

I'll even give ya back haul a truck load of politicians’ we need to get rid of!Oh wait you already got some!

Well have some more!Cheaper by the dozen.

Just curious how you guys get the guinea pigs for this project? Who pays for labor/parts etc...?

Almost makes me wish I'da bought that '04 Vision...sales guy last shot me a price of $26,000 including adding the jake brake to it... And have Bigen hook me up with a couple loads to and from wherever Mackpro is to get it set up.

In this case he asked for it to be done!He paid!I made the plate it takes but fifteen minutes to make a plate did that for free.If I find this to be worth the while I will be doing this at exhast gasket time!IF asked to do so!

Under a job line on the work order REPAIR EGR system.

I had Three in service !(truck 2) Back down to two the guy claimed it reduced his power!

The first guy I did is happy saving 40 bucks a day in fuel no power complaint.

truck three verdict is still out on he has thrown a code but it took a hundred miles to do so no power decrease and no coment on the fuel savings as of yet this was well worth trying thou!

68

A thought here what happens if the egr valve gets stuck in the half way postion by say, capping off the oil flow to the valve???

So truck three was back this weekend hes seeing no loss of power maybe even an increase and as of yet no milage gain on the mpg But thats on the VIP read out averaged over how many miles? So the saga continues and the jury still out for a while!If we gadually start seeing an increase that will tell the tale!Hes been getting the same milage from day one so its going to take quite a while to read any increase on the vip!

EGR code still intact!

FJH has few trucks running with block off plates with mixed results, haven't heard from him in a few days, hope he has some good news. My approch was to completly remove EGR valve, EGR cooler, mass flow pipe and oil lines and coolant lines to these componets ( to save weight, 60 lbs) . The only thing left would be the Mass flow ECM (behind engine ECM). With resistors plugged into the mass flow ECM I could fool the EGR flow and EGR temp (these make up the Mass Flow sensor/pipe) into thinking it had some flow and a OK temp. The engine ECM looks at "target" EGR flow (what flow should be) and compares it with the "actual" flow (read from the Mass flow sensor) . If actual flow is 10pounds or more than target flow it sets a code (stuck open EGR valve probably). If the actual flow is 10 pounds less that the target flow it sets a code (plugged EGR cooler probably). The trick is to get a happy medium. I have made many trips to Radio Shack for resistors. Haven't given up yet but only get to work on it a few hours a week due to a full shop of broke trucks.

I had Three in service !(truck 2) Back down to two the guy claimed it reduced his power!

The first guy I did is happy saving 40 bucks a day in fuel no power complaint.

truck three verdict is still out on he has thrown a code but it took a hundred miles to do so no power decrease and no coment on the fuel savings as of yet this was well worth trying thou!

68

A thought here what happens if the egr valve gets stuck in the half way postion by say, capping off the oil flow to the valve???

I have a pump guy in Il that turned up / calabrated some of our pulling trucks for $300-400 this is a no parts involved deal. most of it is his time and use of his pump stand. I think $800-$1000 would be the avg standard rebuild of a pump. never had a pump rebuilt so cant be for sure. Price will also depend if its a Robert Bosch or American Boasch pump. one seams to have cheaper parts?

FJH will know more than I on the costs involved....fyi be glad its not a V8 Pump. they cost as much as a E6 300Hp motor...seriously!

The If its an AMBAC pump you can remove just the governer to have the repairs done!

If its a robby bosch the pump has to come off!its been awhile since we had any pump work done but some where in the 1000 buck range sounds correct! take your pump No#s in and Get a quote!

I have a pump guy in Il that turned up / calabrated some of our pulling trucks for $300-400 this is a no parts involved deal. most of it is his time and use of his pump stand. I think $800-$1000 would be the avg standard rebuild of a pump. never had a pump rebuilt so cant be for sure. Price will also depend if its a Robert Bosch or American Boasch pump. one seams to have cheaper parts?

FJH will know more than I on the costs involved....fyi be glad its not a V8 Pump. they cost as much as a E6 300Hp motor...seriously!

The If its an AMBAC pump you can remove just the governer to have the repairs done!

If its a robby bosch the pump has to come off!its been awhile since we had any pump work done but some where in the 1000 buck range sounds correct!Get a quote!

I hate changing parts but it come to a point when ya got too!Heres another one to change there is a ground falt breaker on older units its the square thing up by the starter relay on the fire wall try jumping that out and see if your problem changes!If it does replace it!

I hate changing parts but it come to a point when ya got too!Heres another one to change there is a ground falt breaker on older units its the small rectangle thing up by the starter relay on the fire wall black wires go to it ,try jumping that out and see if your problem changes!If it does replace it!

Check the return spring and throttle lever first.. if thats ok then it sounds like the pump or gov is getting worn out. time for a check up! some have claimed they may run away if it gets worn out real bad...

Yup like Trent has said check the the throtle lever internal spring if there is any movment between the spring ends this will cause the engine to surge!If its not loose then the govener is at falt!

I recently bought a 1994 MS 200 Midliner with 377CI diesel engine that had been sitting for a year. It now blows some anti freeze out of the engine breather pipe when driving. It also looks as though there may be some anti freeze in the oil. Was wondering what to check first.

Its a wet sleave engine, you need to pull the pan down a look to see where the coolant is coming in!

It is likly liner orings But oil coolers have been known to fail as well!Parts a quite pricey so think VERY heavy on looking for a diffrent truck!

I WAS TOLD THAT IT IS THE WAY MACK PUTS THE CARBIDE ON THE LIFTER AND HAS AIR TRAPPED BETWEEN THE TWO.

GG2

Giant 2 the engine he has has roller lifters!His failure is as 68 discribed ,Nature of the beast! The cam failures are pretty much few and far between now once, the newer ceramic lifter is installed!(For the most part)

The flat tappet lifter of the pre ETeck engine was improoved just before the ETeck engine came along!Since that time I have never seen that improoved lifter fail.It is used in all the earlier engines including the E6 And V8.

10-4 Allowing water in combustion chamber and its trying to combust that water

A poor spraying injector will also cause problems like this!

Thanks for the info, I will try clearing the plug and see what happens, what is this plug called?? It keeps getting progressively worst so I'm thinking it is fuel related, at first I was thinking a sensor or something electrical.

It is simply the main fuel pump plug !When you have this apart look at it head on and see if there are any signs of heat, brown looking areas on any of the plastic pin bosses If you find any that look discolored I would go to the dealer and have it repined!

Have it hold its breath and hang upside down for 30 seconds...usually works for me...

Anyway, maybe try taking that 9-pin plug apart (unscrew approx. 1/4 turn and pull apart) on the back side of the injection pump and blow it out good with an air gun and reconnect.

Take this plug apart as directed above and put it together and take it apart 6 or 7 times blow it out and try it this may help.If not take it to a dealer and have them re pin the plug.

There are actually four bolts between pump and first cast section which is fastened to next section which I believe contains some sort of timing advance system. Not there right now but I think three bolts between these two. Loosening the four bolts between aluminum pump and first cast iron section does not seem to loosen pump at all.

Thanks Peter

I beleive there are three ,If you take it off at the 4 bolts it will hang up on the hub inside!There is one real long one on the bottom 6 - 8 inches and two shorter ones 3-4 inch on the top 13 or 15 mil heads can't remember sizes.The timing advance stays on the engine.the first little section stays with the pump.There is a loose or floating coupling inside.

Hi

Can any one give me a proceedure for removing a Bosch Electronic contolled pump from engine of 93 CH613 {believe E7 350] to have it repaired.It appears there are a couple spots it could be split from engine but I assume only one that works.

Thanks for now.

Welcome to the site!

You simply unbolt it from the fuel pump end!First you need to set the engine on its static timing mark on the fly wheel veiwed thru the six hole small plate on the bottom.You remove the timing event marker on the side of the fuel pump (single two wire plug) and peer in the hole there should be a wide blade screwdriver looking tab if its not there you need to turn the engine 180 deg and look again once you have that tab dead center in the timing event marker hole and the engine on the timing mark typicly 7 Deg you can safely remove the pump removing the 3 bolts holding it on!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130283840291&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

That price is what we pay for a recon up here in Canada.

I would like to see someone get one installed for $1200 to $2500!

I would like to see someone get one installed for $1200 to $2500!

We got to fine sum first!Don't think anybodys making one as of yet!

This is where we need to get in here 68, put a tiger torch in an old oil barrel mount it under the passenger side cab and call it a dpf

We could stand to make millions!

Thought I would post this for discusion!

The BC government has lost there marbles If they ever had any!

SUBJECT: Upcoming Diesel Retrofit Requirement

Managers, Victoria Carrier Safety Inspectors Driver Services Centers

Motor Vehicle Inspectors Government Agents TRANS (Director, Chair

Passenger Transportation Board Supt. of Motor Vehicles Transportation Policy)

Deputy Director, CVSE Trucking Industry

Regional CVSE Managers Law Enforcement Agencies

Managers, ICBC Licensing Commercial Transport Insp.

ADM (Compliance and Consumer (Inspection Stations)

Services) Passenger Transportation Branch

____________________________________________________________________________________

PURPOSE OF CIRCULAR

To advise that an amendment to the Motor Vehicle Act Regulations will come into effect on

October 1, 2010. This will require that heavy duty diesel vehicles of the model years 1989-1993

be retrofitted with emissions reduction devices. This requirement will apply to vehicles with

licensed gross vehicles weights of more than 8,200 kg that are required to be inspected under

the Commercial Vehicle Inspection Program (CVIP). The following vehicle classes will be

exempt from the requirement:

 Buses

 X-plated vehicles

 Emergency vehicles

 Farm vehicles with LGVW under 17,300 kg

Acceptable emissions reduction devices reduce particulate matter (PM) emissions by at least

20% and are verified by the following agencies:

 US Environmental Protection Agency: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/retrofit/verif-list.htm

 California Air Resource Board: http://www.arb.ca.gov/diesel/verdev/vt/cvt.htm

The diesel retrofit will be an additional inspection item included in the Commercial Vehicle

Inspection Program. Impacted vehicles will not pass their required periodic vehicle inspection

without a retrofit. CVSE roadside enforcement will also be monitoring compliance of this

requirement.

BACKGROUND

The diesel retrofit requirement was originally announced by the Minister of Environment in June

2007 as part of the Air Action Plan. The intent of the initiative is to reduce harmful particulate

matter emissions from heavy emitting diesel vehicles by at least 20%. Particulate matter is a

significant air quality and public health concern and is linked to cardiovascular and respiratory

hospitalizations, respiratory diseases, chronic obstructive lung disease, chronic bronchitis,

pneumonia, heart disease and lung cancer.

Vehicle owners will be responsible for the cost of the retrofit estimated to be between $1,200

and $2,500 depending on vehicle type.

Further information (FAQs) can be found at: www.th.gov.bc.ca/cvse/diesel_retrofit/.

Link to Air Action Plan: http://www.bcairsmart.ca/.

For questions on this initiative contact: diesel.retrofit@gov.bc.ca or call 250-356-9797.

Greg Gilks,

Anyone know where we can get aprox 10000 dpf addon kits quick?????????????/

These guys are serious!

I agree with a lot of what you have said here !

Althou I beleive the v8 died long before Sven and Ollie took over,Blaming volvo for that is not the right thing, the EPA killed the v8.