fjh

don't look at it that way post about it anyway. I don't think anybody here thinks you're a posting whore. I read all your threads because we have a lot of similar probs/interest and the guru guys give good clear answers and always help.

I wish Mack or the repair manual publishers would hire folks like fred and MackPro to sit down and show them how to write manuals and what to put in them.

Naw My manual would resemble a comic book with hyrogliphics! unFortunatly those poeple are writers and don't know the open end from the ring end of a wrench !The guy I REALLY want to meet thou, is the guy that does the flat rate times for the new engines and stuff, He will be a true ledgend!These guys are greased lightning compared to almost anyone ,They do any job Twice as fast as anyone I Know , in almost All cases.AND the engines and stuff they work on work flawlessly when they are done.If you read the manual AND all the stuff they can acomplish in the Time given Its inspiring, He must be an Icon.

That Guy is one Guy I would love to meet! maybe, His Greatness will Rub off on me, Heres for hopen!

Untill then though I'll just GET IT DONE and hope for the best.

honestly the american manuals arent to bad. You work on so Korean or Japan made stuff the translating is real poor! Its a real double wammy!

Well.... changed the oil cooler, It looked good(not pluged). BUT there were some metal filings in the coolent tubes!? and no cavatation on the caps. Last time I checked the only moving part in the cooling system is the waterpump. any one got an xray gun I can borrow so I can check the pump LOL! james

any one got an xray gun I can borrow so I can check the pump LOL! james

Fresh Out

Bro!

Ahh yes Water pump Time!

Gambi

How are you checking it Bro?Are you preasuring it up? Or are you just looking?

Preasuring it up is the ONLY sure Fire way of finding leaks, And you need to Preasurize EVERYTHING at once the tubo the after cooler and the engine!

I'm Not Trying to degrade you in any way!But somtimes people think just looking is good enough!Its NOT!

If you havent already done so, your going to have to make testing equipment a rubber hose that will fit the turbo snail inlet and a bung to plug that with put regulated air to it 30-35 psi You may only need 10- 15 to find what your looking for cause it sounds like A big leak to me!You may also need to turn the engine sum to get the preasure to biuld and it will .If you don't find anything the turbo May be At fault I have seen turbos that will not spool properly right out of the box! But It sounds like a leak to me!

If you have already done this I stand corrected .

Fred

I've checked checked and re-checked all that. Just keeps gettin doggier... 702k miles and the fuel system hasn't been touched, I'm sure its due for a check-up.

Gambi

How are you checking it Bro?Are you preasuring it up? Or are you just looking?

Preasuring it up is the ONLY sure Fire way of finding leaks, And you need to Preasurize EVERYTHING at once the tubo the after cooler and the engine!

I'm Not Trying to degrade you in any way!But somtimes people think just looking is good enough!Its NOT!

If you havent already done so, your going to have to make testing equipment a rubber hose that will fit the turbo snail inlet and a bung to plug that with put regulated air to it 30-35 psi You may only need 10- 15 to find what your looking for cause it sounds like A big leak to me!You may also need to turn the engine sum to get the preasure to biuld and it will .If you don't find anything the turbo May be At fault I have seen turbos that will not spool properly right out of the box! But It sounds like a leak to me!

Fred

I'd like to know too.

...can that VGT crap be programmed out of the computer or no?

Anything is posible with A little money I guess!Is It worth It???

Probably not to many RB's with 460 ETECHs in them running around? if you know of any , ask to raise the hood and measure the diameter of W/P pully or ask the local Mack dealer to pull one off the shelf and measure and compare it to what you have on the truck . I have seen wrong parts put in the right box, gotta remember we now have Volvo in charge so anything is possible. Maybe a slipping water pump impeller, rare but it has happened. Also I saw a lower crank pully so wore out that the V-belts were sinking to the bottom and not grabbing good when tight, long shot though. Mack used to make lower temp thermostats but our parts guys here only keep the standard one (180 I think). I does have a thermostat in it I hope.

Lower stat is a lower stat It will open lower but still be open That probly won't fix the problem.

i like the water pump check idea makes sence!

Like I said let us know how it goes with the cooler change if it does the trick or not!

Guess thats worth a try if ya got the hose Glenn!

This is a real valid thought! Check into that one!

I have seen the wrong water pump put on and the truck over heats (pully to small or to big).

I wish I could find a daycab all snazzed up like that. I rarely see any Macks all decked out...never a daycab tho.

When you get your 5th one bought, lemme know. lol

Wonder how Mackpro68 is doing with his EGR experiment...

We got our first plate in!I made it up last week took ten minutes and a peice of 1/8 plate ,We'll see!????

Haven't heard back on the results yet!Heres for hopen!

I'm still a little leary on turbo wheel speed!

Most all 1992 CH's had electronic fuel pumps, if it does, it really needs to have the idle set with a computer/Mack dealer. Is the throttle pedal have a linkage rod (manual pump)going to it or electrical wires/plug. If it is a electronic pump/throttle pedal the idle can be raised but I'll have to find it in the book and post it here.

68

350-400 hp were Vmac the 300 could be either or in this vintage! If its mechanical there is a screw under the lever on the side of the pump the rear ward screw adjusts the idle!I belive 8 mil or 10 mill wrench to do the job.

You can, If its turned on in the puter adjust the idle with switches as well if its Vmac!

I know that the pyro max is 1200 deg, but I'm sure that's not a sustained 1200. My truck constantly/quickly climbs to 1000+ on a regular basis. Just curious if the cause can be in the injection pump-retarded/off timing..?? I was going to make an appointment at Midwest Diesel Injection, they say they've got a diagnostic code reader deal that they can plug in to the truck and adjust things and what not. How much info can be gathered before the pump has to come off and be checked out...? I was thinking of having them replace the injectors and pull the pump as they can bench test them and calibrate.

First off Id check for Boost leaks High pyro indicates among other stuff lack of air!Pluged air filter poor turbo performance yada yada Before spending big bucks!

Just my two cents

i have known this guy for 35 years, like myself he is a tradesman who is old and body aces we just happen to drive trucks now.

we are not truck drivers i am a carpenter he is a mason,it is an economy thing, housing market has driven us elsware.

i would feel no different sending him to ca. in my truck than myself, he like myself would take better care of some thing we have been entrusted with, than something we owned.

we have worked for each other threw the years,

when you are a man of your word, there can be no problems

he had kids

i saved.

Well if Hes a bro and you want to help out then Its A call that you got to make!

Its a truck, trucks break! Can he help keep the bandaids on!

I'd feel better putting him in an older unit Sumthing I new wasn't going to break down leaving him with decisions to make with your money is all!

Just somthing to think on!

Its a 460. the real problem is it runs hot, not gonna say over heats but hot(it has shut it down twice last year) it always has since new! Ive had 5 core rad made for it, I clean it alot(take air/air off to blow out) have checked time and time againg for air leaks, checked air comp., done bubble test and comb. gas test, changed water pump, put mechanical gauge in, new vicus fan, switched to longlife(red) coolent, had at dealer number of times and we cant fig. out!? so oil cooler was cheap enough and had the cash, if Im gonna take rad hose off to check for scale, might aswell change it out. like i said its orginal cooler. any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

I have wondered if i could put a bigger fan(blades) as there is about 2" from tip of blades to shroud. not enough distance from rad to waterpump to put air fan.

Man you done everything your doing the last resort thing now!Let Us know how it goes!!!!!!

Your in the era for casting sand in the block I beleive, was there ever any compressor over heat problems?

Also low liners! has it been blowing coolant out?Or over preasuring the rad?We had one truck 2000 era blowing water filters off!Bubble tests don't work well as you can't check under load Been my observation the gas test kits are junk on a diesel engine they show nil!

Just guessing but If this cooler don't do the trick Liners would be my bet!

I think your real close for time on the cooler change out!

Just some thoughts

they told me they would bring the truck and all paper work to the states, and take care of every thing. it would be no more trouble to me than a local purchase???????????

I Can tell you tell ya that the truck was dressed out at our shop on Vancouver Island and made its way to the other side of the Nation! http://nanaimomack.com/ Check out westcoast edition!

As for buying another truck Naw two headaches.Ya can't count on somone else to do the job properly!Your just buying him a job!

what about the nylon fuel pump gear? seen it where it will run due to torque on gear but would not start. just a guess!?

This here is too vague. Is this a VMac engine?What is fairly common on a vmac pump is the rack actuator fails!In this case the pump has to come off to be repaired!

HK brings up a good point is the dash lighting up when the key is turned on?The acc relay will cause the heater and dash not to work! And will not let theengine light up!

i checked top gear sets when i pulled carriers out cuz ya have to remove covers to get two of the bolts. I'm stumped, i thnk the next step is to pull frnt carrier back out and count all teeth. it has dayton whls all around. and i will go double check and make sure all are tight.

I agree its time to count!

yeah there is and yeah it seemed to be ok to me when i changed trans

Ryan I bin following this post and the input has been all valid here!I would how ever check the top gear sets on both diffs for peices if you havent already,pull the side covers and look at em.your ratio mis match is highly likly at this point wouldn't take very much with this style of interaxle drive to cause a problem like this! I beleive this was mentioned But again, If one of the diffs has a Mack limited slip in it, this will bang and pop.

Bud or spoke Wheels?

spoke Are they Tight?

Simple but valid questions

Cracked bud wheels make one heck of a noise!

Barry posted this above there but its good reading!

Why we are going the way of the doe doe bird as far as I can see!

Reading thru that I see they will do away with the owner ops Won't be able to afford trucks as repair costs are off the end of the scale they are catering to fleets

The guy states that newer trucks are more durable and more dependable in one of his last statments

he odviously lives on mars or sumthing!

http://www.truckinginfo.com/maintenance/news-detail.asp?news_id=69639&news_category_id=76

My engine keeps shutting down at random times.

Sometimes at when parked, sometimes while moving.

It reves up, shuts off but then can be restarted almost immediately.

Any ideas?

First thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump Plug pins!I would have them replaced before doing anything else major!

Kinda but no, a guy I know buys the cab, hood and frame from a company that strips down new Macks and builds military vechicles using the Mack engine, trans and axles. He then buys the rest and builds the truck with what ever Mack engine/trans/axles the customer wants.

SweeeeeeeeeeeT Got to love that!

i am very happy with this truck, not because of great service, i think it will have all the problems that post 02 have, but i think i got good as i could get, and thats great big!!!!!

Gambi said he could use that screw theres a bit of money on the sly here for ya Chuck! Pop that baby in the mail to him!

Does anyone know where i could get an electrical diagram for my 1999 e7 400??? I'm about to pull my hair out over here. I think I have a problem in my electrical system...any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Welcome to the site !

Would you please post your problem before you go bald!

We maybe able to help with out a diagram

is that thing you said on the bottom of the pump with a oilpres line going to it. joe

On a truck these are mounted at the rear upper of the fuel pump governer housing!As stated there will be a braided or steel 1/4 inch line coming from the inlet manifold!

. Will too much timing show up on the pyrometer?

Not sure

didn,t know you were on here today fjh, pro68 had answered my post erlier if their are no screws like this in the engine then i'm gonna run it and try to forget i ever seen it.

Ya I worked to day Bro, I come to check on ya most every day thou!Got to keep you and Jerry on the straight and narrow!

fjf do you think the injectors would be the same or not?The reason i ask i have a project if i get started on it .It is a E7 and i want to use my new E6 pump and i know i will have to buy a turbo but dont know about the injectors.The E7 is from a cement mixer and maybe a 270 or 300.

Glenn they should work however how well I'm not sure. the tips and cracking preasures maybe diffrent. Cant hurt to try I would think!

270- 300 M? Would be a stump puller engine I would think! Maxidyne !?