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13 hours ago, Joe2007 said:

I put a new diaphragm in today, but it’s still doing the same thing. Do you have any other ideas?

Did The diaphragm Have a hole Or are we just parts chucking here! I get replacing it cause its old BUT ! We are trouble shooting here ! 

did you check your work try blow through the diaphragm after you replaced? Also have you checked fuel pressure  yet! ???

Nope!

2 hours ago, Joe2007 said:

FJH

 

Just getting around to working on my truck. I can blow in the  smoke-limit device.is there anything else to check on?

 

Nope pull the lid the 4 screws u may have to use vice grips on the anti tamper or zip wheel a screw head on it ! If you can blow thru it it has a hole in it! The other alternative is take the two screws out of the small cap and run the  Allen screw right in !but there is no Garrenty you going to get full fuel doing that!

The torque rod can interfere with traction ! unless you have a greased torque rod the rubber ones can interfere with articulation some what! if you are a work site truck Dump type unit rough ground  better off with out it! That said you sacrifice stability some what! My favorite torque rod comes on the newer trucks ! It has plastic grease encaptured ends they are pricy but  very effective! 

MPParts | Automann TMR635 20in Transverse Torque Rod | TMR635

4 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Leak down test would be the next thing.  Or remove the exhaust manifold and look for a port that looks different to see which hole to start investigating more. Leak down or a bore scope in through the injector hole.  Never know, if an injector washed it down , maybe it doesn't need an entire inframe. Once the head is off, you'll see how worn the inside is in general. Sounds like you're going inside though.

Or just shut down eups  one at a time ! To find the bad hole !

K if it’s puffing out the fill tube you likly got a bad hole !  So bad news I guess!  You may be replacing the turbo now if bits have gone through the hot side ! Depending on hours and money you do a at minimum a one hole fix or an inframe! See if your guy can get a pai kit you may save a far bag of money on parts !

3 hours ago, Boostedfa5 said:

Will check out turbo and air compressor today. 

Get it hot remove the drain tube and run it into a clean pail ! Rev it up a bit !If you have Vapor there you have  your answer!also take an oil sample before you go head first into an in frame ! It can be liners leaking check for coolant!

I personally would check the turbo if this came on suddenly!  Ai engines turbos are prone to fail in this way!

44 minutes ago, Lmackattack said:

the springs are definatly thicker than my 34k. the no transverse rod has me scratching my head. I thought 38k and above used them?

this truck sees only a few hundreed miles a year and I have no clue the history of it.

 

 

It will be good just keep them u clips (bolts) tight! The t verse is an option! But A lot of pissing around to install if it isn’t already drilled!

just sayin!

13 minutes ago, Mark T said:

They're 38s in that truck. Looks like maybe someone put bigger springs in it ?? Those won't hurt anything in there, and don't get nervous if you hear them jingle'n around in there.  Terry's right, those U bolts need to be tightened to spec, and it's a lot. (like 1200 or 1600 ft/lbs)  or you'll be taking it apart in no time again.

👍 yup heed the warning!

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

38

Still worth putting in! In my opinion!

8 hours ago, tayson said:

Ok thank you I'll try it

If you get stuck on something pm me or post!

30 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Auto power divider ?? 

Yup if the the divider has a lock out use it if the noise goes away you have your answer! If your going to put of size tires on any tandem anybody’s diff put them kitty corner ! It will help distribute the speed difference over the works!

just my opinion!

So I will try and explain how to check the timing to get it close! You need proper tool to set perfect! How ever this will get it close! On the bottom of the engine housing there will be a small cover 2 bolts or six bolts 10 mil  have you seen this cover?  You need to remove the cover and the timing event marker!turn the engine to the degree’s markings on the flywheel set it too the initial (timing mark ) usually found on one of the valve covers 6 -10 degrees go to the tem hole and look inside of every thing is as it should be you will see what looks like a flat blade screw driver ! If it is not there or is not centered the tone ring has slipped! This means you will need to pull the fuel pump and have the ring re installed to its correct position! 
Note you may have to turn the engine 180 to make sure your on number 1.

just sayin 

I have run into this!

1 minute ago, tayson said:

Ok I did swap the econovance and it had no change and I haven't learned how to check the timing yet

Solenoid?

Do you know how to check timing? If the timing is going up to a point where you have clatter you may have a couple of issues! Even at max timing it shouldn’t clatter! (Ping) don’t keep running it like that! If you have another econovance solenoid swap it!  

4 minutes ago, tayson said:

Ok when I start it will rev a little and then go to 650 on the tac. A light puff of blue smoke at very first and the clears. I have changed the econovance with another used one and both do the same thing. I haven't tried what you said so I will definitely try that

Disregard that 

3 minutes ago, tayson said:

We put 2 different computers on it and they didn't show any codes

When you first start the engine ! Does it stumble and smoke ? Then clean up?

On 9/29/2025 at 7:51 PM, Joey Mack said:

Cavitation in the water pump housing. ??

Buddy I would lean towards a fan hub on this!

Try unplugging the tem on the side of the pump! If the timing still fluctuates it’s likely the ecovance at fault! If the spring in the econovance is broken the timing can float All over the place! Please explain what you hear/ see at start up!

Do you have a code reader ? 

Post you vin Heinz may be able to help!

1 hour ago, h67st said:

+1 on Geoff Weeks' comments. Fuel pressure will definitely cause this, could be a line like has been mentioned or could be the overflow valve (return tee on the top of the pump, if it's worn you won't get enough pressure).

My bet is the diaphragm!

3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

have you checked the throttle arm on the pump to see if it is moving all the way to the stop screw, and have some pressure on the spring to insure that it is at W.O.T. ?

Joey he mentioned this above! 
(I’m not sure when you push thethrottle down and it moves the lever on the pump all the way forward)