fjh

It’s a shame they can’t filter out then suck the exhaust! Imagine that would involve a fair jag of plumbing thou!😡

Means going back to 2000 to find something that doesn’t eat shit! Cat or otherwise!

good luck!

21 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Yes sir, i am thinking the guide pin is jamming the lifter in the bore, and may need to be drilled out with an 1/8" left hand drill bit to use an easy out to rotate and pull the guide pin

Yup! Good thought!

18 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Did the EUP roller rotate? Which cylinder is it?

Wondered my self not that it maters much think that cam will be pouched! But ya never know!

3 hours ago, TurdFerguson said:

Mack E tech 300 engine. Removed the EUP pump and the springs on the EUP pump had broken and beat up the tappet roller under the EUP pump. the tappet roller is damaged and swelled and will not come out. Tried to move it up or down and will not budge. it is stuck.

Sorry bro never had this happen ! Try making something with a hook on it to grab the slot from the inside and pry up! Is all I can think of at the moment!

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

fjh is right. when you remove the sensors from the venturi you will see 2 little ports on the pipe and the sensor. be careful not to scratch the pipe when you clean the soot out. you can wet the soot with brake cleaner and try to pick it out gently.  It is a dumb design and it WILL clog again. 

There is no good design for making an engine eat it’s own shit simply an All round bad idea! Try it yourself sometime you will likely not like it!

14 hours ago, 2014pinnacle said:

Hi guys it was the hot pipe leaking guess the clamp didn’t quite seat. I worked the truck today and it worked great all day then to night just before I parked it engine light came on and  have the p0403 code again what else should I do I need to do looking at?

Check the diff pressure  sensor on the Venturi tube they tend to clog with soot! 4 screws!  if I remember right! Note I am not a guru on these just something to check!

14 hours ago, RS Disposal said:

truck seems to run fine around town but when I am climbing the canyon occasionally it will start to miss (more than just loosing power) and I would have to pull over and let it idle for a bit.  Then I could start back up again.  I do understand about a liquid filled gauge, but would think the gauge attached after the secondary filter would mellow the fluttering a bit.  I did notice a couple of times that the gauge did drop to zero for several seconds.  I did pull the plastic check valves and they did look ok, but don't have new to compare against.  Truck only has about 160,000 road miles (not sure about motor miles being there is a pto running a packer) but then again it is 47 yrs old and sat for about 20 yrs before being put back into service about 8 yrs ago.  Truck only really works part time anyway, but I do know stuff breakdown with age alone

Have you checked the tank vent?  And You can actually take the Drainback tee apart and stretch the spring to raise the pressure some 20 25 psi won't  hurt anything!  

12 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Question of the night:

Pulling injectors.  Mine are "stuck".  Tried giving one a smack with a pry bar and no go.  

Puller the best way?  Do you remove the nut and thread puller on that(what thread is it?)or use the banjo threads(which seems like metric m10).

I had them stuck so bad even with a puller it ripped the the threads out of the return nut! Also had the injector sleave com out with the injector! This can happen on a 4 valve injector as well if the bottom injector washer does not seal correctly ! not more gooder! 😡 

14 hours ago, terry said:

Right under the front of injection pump, has two fuel lines on the bottom of it, with two capscrews with copper washers on the top of it, take the nuts off and there is a plastic check valve under each one. You can see the top of it on the last pic.  terry  also a small spring on each one

Also check  the return check Tee there if you take it apart to see if the spring is broken that can cause low pump pressure !  you need bare min 15 psi to run clean at full load fuel demand !

8 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Does Apex sell tooling like that for Mack, like they do for Cummins and Cat? I bought the tooling I needed even tho sometimes it is hard to justify.  I had enough Cummins engines, at least 4 at one time. Shops I worked at had the tooling, so didn't need it when I was working for hire.

You have to be real careful with out a proper tool once you have the ring on and I advise using lock tight .and quickly put the flywheel on to push the ring in to its proper depth!

3 hours ago, kscarbel2 said:

Different seals. You want a 57GC186A kit with the narrow wear band (not the 57GC187A with a wide wear band).

And really you should use a proper installer for the ring it can be real temperamental  to install straight!  We had a tool to install that pushed the whole shooting match on in one go and to the proper depth!
 

just saying 

Heinz?

47 minutes ago, 2014pinnacle said:

I just got my truck back together today we had to relate the the valve and the manifold broke bolts off getting egr off. The truck is back together and it sounds like a giant vacuum cleaner any thoughts on what it might be? It sounds fine for about a minute and then it makes like a high pitch vacuum noise I can’t find any leaks anywhere. I dont have a scan tool what kind of things would I see if the vgt turbo is stuck?

Yup!
Run some water over that pipe that the Heinz is showing you we called thes the asshole pipe designed by a Volvo idiot!

the last thing to happen on a Saturday afternoon end of the day! You think you’re done and then this!

12 hours ago, Freightrain said:

All 6 ready....

I played around with oilers.  Not sure when I will get alignment tool so I think I will go off law of averages and get them all close to the same.

I laid a straight edge across block, used a piece of .125 TIG wire and measured all the locations from top and side of bore.  4 were close to same, two needed some finesse.  They are pretty close now within about 1/4" of each other's location.  I assume it needs to hit the bottom of the piston(basically missing the rod end).  Kinda up in the pocket behind the pin.  Using an old piston I just eyed up where it looks best.  Again, OCD is making it rocket science and probably was just fine before I moved a couple a little.

I need to work on the rear seal install.  The book makes it look crazy.  Install housing the use installer to press seal in.  Why can't I press seal in housing and then install housing?  Don't want to screw this up either.

Of course I don't have all the "installation tools" they request.

I'd like to get pistons dropped in this week/weekend so I can get pan installed.

 played around with oilers.  Not sure when I will get alignment tool so I think I will go off law of averages and get them all close to the same.

 Me thinks You should be fine doing that! as for the seal are you using the wiper ring or just a bare seal!?

38 minutes ago, 67RModel said:

I just sold the the first house I bought when I was 24. A 75 year old 1100 square foot ranch shoe box in the Pittsburgh suburbs. It is the definition of a starter house. Cost me $730/month including taxes and insurance when I first bought it but had crept up to about $890 recently due to property tax and insurance premium increases. I thought it was a super affordable place to live at those rates. I saw at the closing the young kid that just bought it has a payment on it of $2460/month for the next 30 years. I couldn't believe it. I felt sorry for him.

yup he weren't flippin burgers to qualify for that! banks are  Criminal!

12 hours ago, Sheepdog said:

sorry should have clarified to start. No it’s an Australian truck, we never got the EGR and VGT version over here I don’t think, also never got much of aftermarket gear either hence why I was thinking bout the bigger standard injectors. It’s good on the flat country but once we get up in the hills around eastern Victora just that little extra might save me going back into the bottom box. Defiantly just CCRS

AHHH! out of my league!  

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

04' ? So you dont have the big VGT turbo and the EGR crossover pipe ? 

Ch will be vGT me thinks!

31 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

It is all Mack parts.

My concern is the liners being almost -.002 undersize from book spec after installation.  Why?  Manufacturing?  I had .0015-.002 shrink and the book calls for .001 clearance to .-001 shrink.  It squeezed them a bit.  Then the pistons being +.001/.0015 larger then old pistons.   It all adds up to tighter fit.  The book has a wide variation, so what is right?  That is all I question.

I have slipped pistons in the bore(had to to be able to check ring gap).  They fit, it isn't that tight.

Like I said, I don't want to gall a liner and tear it apart again.

This is all just the anal "wannabee" machinist in me.  I'm all for hacking shit that doesn't matter.  Engine work is a not that.

I do understand your concern! Max book specs I would guess ! unfortunately we aren't there so I guess all we can do is count on your expertise  to make a call! If they are all Mack parts If I were doing what you are doing I would go with it! and trust that the parts they made are good! ! have built quite a few 237 and 285 E6 and never encountered an issue BUT there is always that possibility I guess! your call Bro!

I personally feel good about how your attacking this!

Just Sayin!

2 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I am just confused why feelers would be more accurate then using micrometers and a bore gauge.

Both should give the same basic results if done correctly.  Unfortunately I don't have long feeler gauges, as I have never had a need for them.

I measured the old pistons and they are 4.867/4.868.  Those were running on a bore of 4.875(on size and negligible wear).  That gives it +.003 more clearance on average.

Maybe I am splitting hairs but I don't want to have to do this twice!  Thousandths make a difference.

So i see did you check the ring gap in the bores and you did  have to file some ends!  If you didnt file too much I would   put this question in a a dark corner and move on!  You can stew  for ever on this ! Joey mentioned putting in a piston with out rings that is a good thought! But what is the min- max measurement with that method just a gut feel ! I have a gut feel as well and it is if it ran before it will run again ! if these pistons are NEW  Mack pistons or  the old ones they will be fine if they came with a kit they should be fine if they are what you ordered!

Just ME!

9 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

Chipping away.  Have three rod assemblies ready for install.  I had to file a few rings to get to minimal .013 ring gap.  Might have been "ok" but I gave it a few more.  Tolerance is .013-025.  Last thing I need is to break a ring due to closure of gap.  Yikes.

Got front cover and side covers glued on.

All bolts call for "nylon", so they got blue loktite.  They had blue residue on the threads when I cleaned them.  Using High tack on gaskets so they should never leak!

Will finish cleaning the side of the block below the covers and around accy drive.

Do you have the piston cooler target plate?