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On 7/1/2025 at 3:10 PM, mowerman said:

ya catching a knock early will save alotta heart ache,,,good luck,,bob

Yup ! So Nate what’s going on? Should have the pan off by now!

1 hour ago, ajones115236 said:

I think I found the problem. It is either the detention is worn out or there is a small pin inside the middle rod it may be worn out. I am ordering both from Mack. Thank you for your help man! 

Let us know if you’re fix works!

Sorry to hear bro ! Unfortunately your in the years where they may have been experimenting with two piece pistons pull the pan and up root the pistons! This first try at this didn’t work well for mack you may have a broken piston skirt !The lash you show in the second vid is normal on an engine brake engine! Let us know what you find!😡

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Some, on here have made pressure testers with PVC parts. If you do that, keep in mind that when you get near 10 psi, these home made tools can pop off with a vengeance. So build it smartly. 

Oh ya! 😡

Found a gusher with this setup!

By the way this is not my set up how ever he is a member here I have been helping him with his issue in this case lots of smoke  lacking boost!

4 minutes ago, Joe2007 said:

What’s the best way to check for boost leaks? 

If. You don’t have smoke most likely a fuel issue 

just sayin 

Electric fuel pump! Likley not because of the year!  That said the lda ont the top rear may be at issue here! Let us know!

37 minutes ago, Joe2007 said:

No faults. 10 speed. It’s got 2 110 gal tanks. But I have one of them turned off have not used it for a couple years. 

Sorry just noticed year is it vmac ? If not check throttle lever for going full on and stop for full on! 

1 minute ago, terry said:

Loosing boost somewhere?   terry

Terry !   runs good not smoking out anything

11 hours ago, Joe2007 said:

 

Hey guys I have a 1990 Mack ch600 with a E7-300 I drive the truck just about everyday. I’ve started have some trouble with it but can’t figure it out. It starts and runs good not smoking out anything. The trouble I’m having is it’s got no power. Same routs everyday the hills I was climbing at 30mph I’m now climbing around 18 or 19mph and it’s the same way loaded or unloaded. 

what trans do you have  and do you have any fault lights ? If no faults and  If You have a Mack trans >try disconnecting the torque limit switch on the rear of the trans  

Me thinks the crank is the same the pistons may be not!

Well  in My mind you either got to check the fuel pressure Or get out the Parts Canon  your choice! You need to get facts ! Or just start throwing things at it and hope! If you are also dealing with a miss or partial miss  there is a possibility of a broken EUP Spring!  

Just sayin!

47 minutes ago, james j neiweem said:

Yes the old Anthem looks better but the new Anthem interior is improved IMO. Like the looks of the Mayflower cab. Volvo bought Mayflower are they going to make new cabs at this facility?

A more car like interior! Great!

Yup check that ! Any other symptoms? Smoke ? Color of smoke at what rpm ect all help with diagnosis!

1 hour ago, Full Floater said:

Thanks.   Ya I have an aux electric lift pump on the supply side of the injection pump (on a manual toggle switch, to use for emergency side of the road priming) and it works great for spill timing.  

I will try to fiddle with a timing light on it and i'll report back with results. 

Yup that would be interesting too know ! That type of pulse timing set up is meant for timing on the fly by turning the pump I believe! Can’t see it being helpful other than not removing the delivery valve! Be alright to check accuracy I would guess! I get the hassle on the RS rad is dam close to the damper on these where the RD the rad is lifted! Good access to the crank bolt!

17 minutes ago, premierhaulingPH1 said:

I completely understand! No hard feelings here. We're grown adults! Hopefully once the pump shop tears it down they can see exactly what's wrong. 

Thanx ! Post if the fix works so others can benefit by your experience!👍 Remember to put the engine on its timing mark before you pull the  pump!

On 6/17/2025 at 1:49 PM, The Heinz said:

For some fun reading, this was an email sent around from HQ about some of the differences that matter most to our operation:

-          The new engine designation is MP13 … they finally got the ID# to match the liters like the Volvo.  There is not an 11 liter anymore.  Cylinder head remains the same, some internal changes on the bottom end, oil pan is new. 

 

-          The M-drive version is now G.  Many improvements over the D and F.  The top cover components are now serviceable (the weak point of the ribbon cable was eliminated) and an oil level sensor was added in addition to the site glass.   The clutch is new and not backwards compatible.  New improved actuator etc.

 

-          The wiring harnesses are vin specific.  They are trying to cut weight on everything so if a truck is not spec’d with fog lights for example, they will eliminate those connectors from the harness.  Where I see this becoming an issue is on the used truck side.  If a fleet specs no fog lights , trades the truck in, it is then re-sold and new owner wants to add fogs, he can’t. It is not possible because there was no provision for it in the harness.  A separate conversation needs to be had with sales and leasing on this, I can see trucks being spec’d with cost savings in mind that will have a negative impact on the next owner.  This truck has 40 separate control modules, if it was not built with one, it can’t be added.

 

-          The active steering system is going to be new for customers.  The wheel alignment process is going to be different with this steering.  If a customer gets the truck aligned the steering system needs to be recalibrated.

 

-          New Keys:  3 key options for this truck, the basic key is now double sided like the Volvo, you can add a fob to this (lock doors etc.), the 3^rd option is a key less push button start deal.

 

-          Essential Tools:  There are 3 pages of essential tools for this thing.  Attached for reference.

 

-          Diag Tools:  New Voccom version is coming out in September.  If your service dept. is in need I would hold off until the new version comes out if you can.  It will be Voccom II+ . 

 

-          Batteries:  This is a big one….   The Pioneer comes with 3 possible configurations controlled by separate ECU/modules; the batteries are AGM from the factory.  You do not have to replace with AGM, a lead acid battery is fine.  Obviously, you can’t mix and match.  The kicker on this is, the truck needs to be programmed when you swap from AGM to lead acid or vice versa.  The truck needs to know what battery is in it to regulate charging etc.  Just something to keep in mind when selling batteries. 

 

-          The other huge deal related to batteries is the charging procedure.  This truck has a starting capacitor.  I understand how it work but am not qualified to explain it (check it out in the navigator classes).  If someone slaps jumper cables on this thing like they traditionally would they will fry the capacitor and potentially other very expensive components.   Attached is CBR-2404 which covers the proper procedure for charging the capacitor (you are not really “jump” starting a truck anymore).  We really need to have this procedure posted near the batteries on the truck somehow. 

We really need to have this procedure posted near the batteries on the truck somehow.    You Bet! And stock up on them capacitors Heins Gona need em!  

Tow only Vehicle ! put the drive shaft on a Zipper or Velcro! 

Air ride suspension? Check ride height! 
 

11 hours ago, mowerman said:

lol hats off bud,,,,im sure you had nightmares of lotsa disassemble and $$$$$,,bob

Fortunately  I didn't have to sleep on it ! The beer set my mind straight I guess! 

52 minutes ago, premierhaulingPH1 said:

Is that the "timing event" sensor? I replaced that a few days ago with a new one. 

Find you self a Bosch fuel shop to replace the sensor inside the pump( My opinion )

1 hour ago, premierhaulingPH1 said:

Well as of this morning I've tried the plug. No change. All pins are tight and getting good continuity. It did throw the first code however. Rack position sensor- shorted high. 

The code is pointing to the fuel  pump having to be removed and the sensors being replaced   The rack actuator is likly faulty  !  

41 minutes ago, premierhaulingPH1 said:

So what would cause the signal to the actuator to be inaccurate? 

Bro.we don’t  got any magic wands here just experiences !  Did you try the plug thing ? That will cause this! Quit asking questions and try stuff posted ! Everyone here is trying to help but you need to help yourself to we can’t fix stuff virtually! Just sayin! Post what you’ve done and we can move on to the fix!

3 hours ago, premierhaulingPH1 said:

I'll check again today, the reason I had moved to the possibility of a bad FIC is my local Mack dealer says if the rack was stuck wide open that the key switch wouldn't shut the truck off. However the key switch shuts it off fine. 

What's your thoughts? Thanks

Again ! Try unplugging the plug at the pump half a dozen times and see if the symptoms change if it does it’s the pins in that plug or the wires to the pump!if not it’s inside the pump itself rack actuator! fretted pins can cause what you have ! the most common fix was to hard wire the pump rather than repining the plug due to how much they gouge for the pins and bits !  Volvo Criminals!