fjh

46 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Joey, I think we stepped all over this guy’s tread

Yup! 🤔

11 hours ago, terry said:

If it’s the through shaft it wouldn’t move would it, unless it’s a air power divider ? terry  

If the thru shaft broke on an angle it would still drive some what! They do USUALLY break clean how ever there is that off chance! shit happens!

Just saying! Leave no stone un turned ! Take both side covers off and look quick and easy!

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

To be clear. I meant the bolts behind the yoke and not the large 16mm 12 point bolts for the whole power divider.. I hope i caught you in time

If this don’t work out pull the big side cover and check for peices! I am suspicious of a broken thru shaft!

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Since you are selling it,  just do the synchro. And shift cylinder orings if you want to freshen them up.  

Ok.... im gonna say it... i bet the popping noise is the power divider... 

are your tires even?

I would replace the fork too just saying! It is likely worn! Do the disks look worn?

Yup Joe I was quite well versed in that department as well! Chronic! For awhile there!

2 minutes ago, BottleHauler84 said:

Gotcha.

I always knew the fiberglass doors from CH and MH looked the same, but always wondered if there were small differences that would cause fitment issues. 

Mack was always Morphing things ! In the direction of where they were heading ! Look no further than the change over of  e6 2valve to 4 valve they changed the front cover on the 4 valve to the very similar e7 mounting  shortly before the e7 was introduced! I could point out dozens of instances of this as time went on It was kind of neat to watch thinking back on it!

13 minutes ago, BottleHauler84 said:

Not to hijack the thread here, but you're saying the MH and CH doors WILL interchange you think?

 

I've often wondered about that and I never actually tried it for myself to know for sure. 

 

Thank for the info @fjh

Up to a Point ! The doors went to metal At one point how ever I did not pay attention as to the year! The earlier Ch doors were  identical to the MH right down to the hinge mounting! Terry  as for the vent window not sure! 

4 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Looks like a 2 valve.

yup and its out of an RS by the look of it!

11 hours ago, FarnorthMN said:

if I'm not to late to the party. heat your rod end cap up best you can with the torch you have.  if you have one of the little compressed air cans ( the ones you use to blow of your computer key bord) tip that upside down a flash freeze the rod cap. then like used and air hammer or punch like @BottleHauler84 @RoadwayR@Geoff Weeks said in you spanner hole to lightly Crack it loose.  iv had pretty good luck with this process. good luck

Thanks all worth trying ! I broke the spaner I bought for the job one of the dowel pins broke! So the e big pipe wrench is all I got for now!

22 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Fjh ??? Do you recall having to do anything inside the rear end when converting frow auto to air locking power divider. I dont... i thought the main housing is the same, but the outer cam drum is longer and has the clutching teeth for the sliding clutch and fork , whos housing bolts on to the main P.D. housing.  I think setting tooth pattern and backlash is checked and adjusted if needed. I dont remember having to change the bevel gear set.  

Pinion is the same the housing is likely different ! because of the sliding clutch So he needs the outter cam and the housing and the actuator housing to complete this and hopfully he has enough slip on the drive shaft to compensate for length! or he will need to shorten!

Don’t assume you have 6 p20 liners! You need to pull them all !  In my opinion!

2 hours ago, terry said:

Better get a manual, i think the older series of front rears on a standard power divider to change to air operated i think the outer cam on power divider had splines that engaged front and rear end, and that entails taking rear apart.   terry

Yup !

6 minutes ago, RoadwayR said:

Yes, if you have room try to loosen the gland nut before you take the cylinder off the hoe.  Use the exact right size spanner, but you know that.  Light air hammer near the threads is a good idea.  And lots of penetrating oil.

Been there, done that.  Love old 580's.

 

Might make a sleeve for the pipe wrench! With a hook on it and maybe be use the machine to power the wrench chain off to a stump and put pressure on it  with the hydraulics and air hammer as suggested! The out riggers will have change tactics if it works! Will see! If I can break it free and get some oil flowing around it things may get moving! IF it works!

7 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Do you have a cylinder chain vise and a HEAVY work table to bolt it to? without those it is impossible to repair some cyl. 

Nope plan on inframe got me a 4 foot pipe wrench! Just don’t got the strength! Want atack the scoop cyl first . Then the out rigger’s! Got the kits off amazon! 

Do any of you guys have any experiences ,hints ,Tips ,As to getting the dam ends out of the hyd  cylinders ?? I am currently wanting to reseal several on the ole Casey  here and the ends are NOT cooperating! I have only a small torch for heat OR A tiger torch! Limited on tooling ! I did the clam cyls  two years back and had to have the the hydraulic shop  just remove the ends cost me 400 bucks and I still had to reseal them! 

Just askin!

16 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Puff limiter does help for cold starts. When the parking brakes are applied, it allows the rack to go to fuel fuel so it can get as rich a mixture as possible for a cold start.

So Mark just to be clear the puff limiter is not working at that point ! Hopefully no one is starting a truck with the park brakes released  ! 😂

Sorry You were told wrong! 

Yup  plywood on a side hill done that too! Improvise! 🤔if you don’t do it it ain’t getting done!

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

thats pretty creative, fjh.. I didnt get the pleasure of doing those when I was in the shop. I was too new and not ready to do that kind of work back then. I guess I missed a lot of fun. 🍻

Well the down side to it was haveing to often work in a chicken coop ! I was offen asked to do un conventional things in un conventional places one hole patches ect!😡

6 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

i have never used a hydraulic puller. The last ENDT I did, I fought the liners. I had to weld beads inside the liners and let them cool. I also had to dress the edges of the 'dogs' on my puller a few times because they would slip off and round over. it was a chore. 

We had a flat push plate made for the bottom inframe  push from the bottom with a tall bottle jack! Some times would almost lift the truck off the floor before they would come loose!

Yup  I had forgotten about the cracking thous  cracks we’re common on these too!

Go with your line theroy and see how it goes !