fjh

Btdt box of parts make it run!

I can’t swear to it how ever if the part came off the engine should fit back on!

Yup I think you’re ok bro ! The gasket change was much earlier! I believe! Use the gasket that doesn’t cover any holes should be fine!

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Is there a lot of raw fuel smoke?

Correct are there any other symptoms you’re not saying? No accusations intended! Injector or eup orings may have been damaged on installation! The pan idea is a sound one! Part’s canon ain’t working well!leave the pan off till your done with the repair!test your work!

15 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

did you acquire one of those dyna lash tools ?? what a joke, some days they were worth it other days flat screw driver /thin opened end wrench.

Absolutely not the shop had one me never used it!11/8 wrench my thumb and a screw driver! We also had the high pressure timer only used that a couple of times to labour intensive!  I like quick and easy! Blo time for me mostly cause I was usually some where in timbuckto and just had to get it done!

24 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

The plug with the big slot ?  That makes sense.. thanks mech,  

Teacher’s assistant will add a suggestion! I always try to Aline the doweled splines with the out side mounting bolt and the spline cutout with the bolt hole on the pump housing! Also  the big plug there was used in conjunction with the tang drive it was eventually done away with soon after the tang drive was deleted! The fiber drive I believe was introduced to quiet things down ! Same as it was on the compresor! Note! I have seen one of these break before should always check them for cracks on the back side!
you pump shop likly did that !The coupler is keyed on that pump Robert Bosch not keyed! That is when you could use the jig! It can also be done on the engine with out the jig it was just another cash grab essential tool. Much like the lash tool for the dyna yard! Improvise folks!

Yup what he said!

53 litres in that pan bro !

Joey ! Very possible you could try! How ever they hardly ever fail in my experience the bearings I mentioned are more  common to fail! You quite welcome to give it a try! Another common leak is the low shift rail seal above the input shaft there!

26 minutes ago, BronsonA2150 said:

Called Mack and they were no help. Anyone know what exhaust and intake valves should be set at? As far as jakes go, which I believe mine are Jacob’s, I could look their specs up but has anyone found a good setting for them that might be different than factory? I know on the old mechanical 3406’s specs called for .070” but people figured out .090” worked better

Bro ! you need to provide us with the engine your working on ! 300 350 400 ! Valves set  inlet 16 and 

24  exhast on most every Mack engine! jakes are set by model number ! Provide us with some info!

2 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

old school  (E -6 ?) transfer pumps had 3/4 hex nuts ; this pump has 7/8 size probably metric . some brake clean an further investigation up coming days.

Thanks for the heads up Joey ! ! Try to shed so light ! The  aforementioned orings are highly suspect! If it has plastic line check them also any thing with that oring with a squeeze nut on it also suspect the primer it self has to seal properly as well!anything on the drain side of the pump before the check valve on the right rear corner of the pump! Needs to be checked!   
Happy hunting Mechohaulic! 😂😇

Use the firing order valve set marks at on the flywheel thru the peek hole on the bottom of the engine housing!

 Well I’m sorry the pump didn’t correct this! Also I’m wondering if you’re vehicle ecu is at fault here or the plug were it enters the cab! Like Joey mentioned check the wires! Bulk head plug as well on the firewall!

Heinz if you came to me and told me you needed the job done out of warranty! You would be given the choice of which part required replacing and the possible implications of not  doing said items and let the customer decide! If if I hated the guy I would allow him some grace! Most times!😇as for the valve cover gasket that’s an ass cover deal and that could also be in his court ! 
just sayin 

Do even replace the Valve cover gasket? 600 bucks for two wine corks Pretty pricey bandaid! For a mistake on the engineering side! Something that should have been a recall! Much like the bull gear feasco! If it doesn’t break before warranty is up don’t fix it!Volvo trash!

15 minutes ago, steeler said:

Yeah I do a lot of these deletes. I'm not sure what the parts cost, but it's a really easy fix other than updating the software for the accessory kit. 3k sounds high! 

Edited to add... I had to check to see what we charge for the delete. About $1000. Dang maybe we are too cheap! Parts are less than 600 bucks, and the job only takes a couple hrs max. 

Yup you could be putting 2000 in you’re jeans buddy ! Or you can go home with a clear conscience! 
you chose right!

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Tip you're hat to fjh..  he is a wealth of knowledge 

Pot calling the kettle black buddy! Just sayin!😇 Hint also if you want a little more just remove the drain T and stretch the spring! Thou 15 plus is adequate for almost any horsepower engine below 350!

7 hours ago, Full Floater said:

What kind of fuel supply pressure (from the lift pump, to the injection pump) should I be seeing with an Ambac pump E6?   Are we in the 10-20psi supply pressure range?   

Thanks

yes 15 to 30  20 is perfect!

On 6/4/2025 at 8:53 PM, Kreager said:

Yes, thank you for the tip! I’ll try replacing all the o rings in the cane before spending the $800 on a new one. 
 

Appreciate all the replies everyone. Will update the forum if I figure out the issue.

Thank you for posting your fix !

well done!