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I too vote pyro! I personally would dump the diff temp ! Put a boost gauge in ! Both tell a tail if you know what your looking for! Diff temp for a toy hauler is useless in my mind unless you plan on running the diff out of oil! Must have list for me are the two mentioned as well as voltage / water temp oil pressure !

It varies even between provinces here ! As we all know they never do away with laws and rules they just Add more of them!! When I got my mechanics trade ticket We were able to attach the Air endorsement to the license That enabled me to drive any Wheelbarrow / car or bicycle with air brakes! These days you have to take a 15000 dollar coarse to Drive anything over 17300 with air! AND Rightfully so! as in the passed 5 to 10 years the increase in trucks and loads hitting overpasses has increased 10 fold! At least 5 last year alone in Vancouver area here! That said Safer to ride your horse! as the population increases the dumber they get!

Nice to see you hanging out Kevin! Nothing sounds nicer than a V8 Still miss the sound on our hyws here! the v8 and cab over population is slim here now ! We sold loads of these in the eight's ! Now a days the engine sound would be stifled anyway by the DPF ! you wouldnt be able to hear how pretty they sound anyway! 🙄

That came with 300 or more HP if I recall ! 285 was usually air to air only!

Well that sucks I have heard of valves sticking on occasion ! guess you will find out as you pull it down! Does your unit have a chassis mounted charge air? (bonus) or tip turbine style intercooler😪 ! ?

I can see by the pic the ubolts are not as tight as they should be! These are to be torqued to 1600 ft pounds I also notice the spring packs apear to be non antisway packs which doesn't help the situation ! Anti sway have more and thicker leaves above the three bottom leaves and have less give to them! For some Dam reason the pump manufacturers use or spec the cheapest chassis they can get their hands on ! Springs to small not enough brakes 24/24 brake pots ect ! you also have the cheapest spring saddle for the job there ! Your saddle has know ears athe very outsid of the saddle ! It kind of angers me in away that they are allowed to build stuff this way! Something that is eternally loaded gets built to such low standards! Putzmeister ,Concord and others all guilty of doing this! There seems to be no rules in place for these units! check out the different styles here are some examples ! Mack Truck Trunnion Seats, Mack Truck Suspension (autoandtrucksprings.com)

I much rather have the light set up its so much quicker ! And more accurate ! That said if your in a situation where the tone ring in the pump has moved. pressure timing is the best second method ! I have also used a drop of fuel on number one delivery valve to get it close on one occasion due to a slipped tone ring! and know flow timer available! you have to have a keen eye for that one put your glasses on! 🙄 Got to do what you got to do!

If your harness has oil push you need to replace it and the offending sensors ! Also ! So you wouldn't happen to be running an extra trans ? (b box) We added a four speed b box to a titan at one point for low bed heavy haul work at one point It maxed out the memory in the ecu and put the truck into derate after 3-6 months of use! Went thru three ecus before engineering was able to tell us what had happened and why! And conjure up a work around! The board in the ecu had a similar look to it!

The goal is to deliver enough pressure to lift the delivery valves not sure of the pressure Joey! It’s abit time consuming as you need to cap off the return lines !

That is called flow timing and is the optimal way to time it it flows till it stops that is port closing ready to inject! if you don’t got stuff to work with the above is the next best option!

All you need is a 5/8 box end and 11/8 box end to set the valves! don't waste money on the the tool even if you can find one! This is the method used to find it! If you think you have a head gasket leak or exhaust leak set the valves up this should help clean up the smoke issue then fix the dyna tard or ring or solenoid ( Note you have one old style and one new style solenoid) the old one is the leaky one! ( Also check to see if that sol is tight ) they can come loose! put the valve covers on ! start the engine while its still coolish run a garden hose around the area you suspect the leak is when you reach the the bad spot the sound will go away or change! Have seen these H G leak between the heads on occasion!

Yes! this here is a get by ! if you don't got the tool Joey has there! Remove the plug in front of the throttle and below the stop that's where the timing tool fits turn the engine to where its to be timed to example 17 or 19 there should be what looks like a flat blade screw driver DEAD CENTER in that hole! If its not there or not centered is either on number six or its out of time! Set it so the spade is centered in the hole remove the front cover and loosen the 4 bolts on the slotted gear turn the engine to on mark you want to time it to confirm the slot has not moved after you move the engine on its timing mark tighten the bolts and try it see if you have achieved your goal engine timing is usually marked on the valve cover and the marks are on the flywheel center bottom! and note if you have a 5.9 Cummins with this pump on it the set is very similar. Also note that We have run into a situation where by the spade has slipped on the pump cam ! this becomes a little bit of a pain but can be over come by a different method so for now go with the spade in the hole method! and advance the timing two or three degrees at a time! A bit time consuming But doable!

If you can post some pictures of what your setting to! damper and pointer! Im gathering the pointer is missing! also number 1 and 6 are sister cyl if six is rocking your checking set on one! if two is rocking you are setting 5 and so on in firing order! Im leaning toward a lifter failure Pull the pan to check this ! however I have seen the engine brake slaves fail on these and wear in on one cyl ! I will also note that a lifter failure is ( usually) accompanied by a popping sound in the intake! air cleaner!

A lot of times the pump manufacturer removes these torque rods to the frame to make room for the syringe rams the rear one is usually in the way! Specially on the mack diffs! The only real way to correct this with Camel back or hard tail walking beams is to be sure you have the steel side blocks in the buffalo pad boxes! Its a dammed if you do dammed if you don't situation! Their only other solution is to move the pump back on the frame which will throw of the weight distribution of the rig Also If the unit has Greased trunnions the unit should be jacked up when being serviced ! Quite honestly a pump unit is ideal to do this it has legs! Lift the unit off the ground and Grease it it will last a log time if you treat it right! Additionally you need to keep an eye on the u bolts keep em tight! The problem with a pump truck is it is eternally loaded ! No rest for the wicked!

I think you will find that your turbo is fubar ! Regardless of its age! we had run into this on many occasions ! when warm / hot Pressure builds up on the exhaust side of the turbo under load and moves down the turbo shaft to the drain tube causing base pressure! But another question ! have you been backing up hill alot ! if so there is a kit to move the breather to the valve cover for cases like this happened a lot with mixer trucks and some dump apps when working on adverse! just sayin!

Joe is correct I know this is a toy or play truck but if you were able to be under the hood while a truck is under load you would be surprised how much an engine moves around specially pulling big weight!

Think as stainless flex and two band clamps job done! Just leave a foot of flex space or it will break the flex!

It’s likly a 375! If it was a 325 it would likly have a six speed Trans!

We made a special cap off tool for the turbo to pressure up the whole intake system it’s time consuming however worthwhile if your chasing intake and exhaust leaks!

Fat ass 😂

oil in there is not unusual it could be coming from the compressor ! The concern is the blades are they chipped!? The charge air is the cooler in front of the rad check it for cracks along the weld at the rh top corner where it comes off the turbo! they some time s split there check all the hoses for splits and broken clamps! make sure the elbow at the top of the inlet manifold is tight and hasn't come loose! look for indications of soot anywhere on the inlet side! something when thru that exhaust side !did it also go thru the inlet or did it come from the engine it self? that is the question!

yup I'd be concerned with that situation there! Something has gone thru there and the snail is heating as Joey mentioned check the after cooler and the charge air system for leaks! Its starving for air ! how does the inlet wheel look? The chips that came off that wheel are melted to the housing! The hot side housing being blue is not a good sign!

Are they still selling MP 10 there Paul?

Agree with the filter thing too! Also did you check pressure after the pump change did it come up to spec?

Did you check with Mack ! They sometimes have these in the recon section the part number with start with an X! IF you can find the right parts guy! And you got a BIG BAG of Money!