theakerstwo

joey i have cut many counter bores but they were all for cat or cummins which was easy to do.Now most engines like the E7 are mid liner stops and are little more to cutting them.

I went to a cat school in Peoria in 68 for that engine and another engine but the 3208 was a 1100 series then and a throw away engine.The instructor told us then the ford wanted a cheap compact engine that would burn diesel fuel and cat gave them one.I fould in the years later the 3208 was in most cases under specs for its size.I have worked on many of them and found little problems with them.We would time them about 2 degrees fast and that help some for cold diesel smoke and i found when we overhauled them to send the block to the machine shop have them bored and sleeved back to standard and the sleeve i believe was better iron than the block. I still have my tools for them.The turbo engine had a little more power.Alot of dump trucks here used them.I was working for freightliner then and we was doing cat warranty work on them for Ford dealer here and i got some of them.O i would much more be happier working on a DD or cummins.

I should not knock any one who can use the phone at work because i only know me and i am very slow anymore and dont need to be playing on the phone.I takes me 5 minutes to tell my wife who i am when i call her from home.

I have a flip phone and it will receive messages and tell me the time and i can call someone and thats all i need till i get home and on my lap top.As old as i am i dont need something else to distract me from driving.I am at home this week or otherwise i would not be on the site.I can still remember just being able to aford a phone at home.Who knows what the future holds for us next.

People use something on their phones cause i get a laugh out of the guys at work and i am talking about guys with a shovel in one hand and their phone in the other hand.This is on road jobs but they are so short handed that i guess they can get too cranky with the help.Then you pass by the forman on the job and he is sitting in his pickup on the phone.

Is this a Vmac 1 and if it is the shut off valve will be on the inlet fuel supply in the fuel pump.Some dont have one.A 90 or 91 is the only ones that i have seen with it.

A sticky rack or worn weights in the governor can do that also.

About a year ago a friend of mine that runs a dump truck were i was working had same problem and it is a 1966 R model but it was trying to run away as he was bring it out to do some work on it.We pulls a filter and it was half full of water.I had a spare pump so we installed it and for a few weeks i tried to get it to free up and could not.We found the fuel tank cap had a hole in the top and rail was dripping down the side of the door into the tank.

Joey make sure there is no water in the fuel filters because that is what scores the plungers.If not any water then it may still be plungers sticking because the fuel now has little lub in it.Now days when one sticks from sitting for a period of time they can stick the plunger to the barrel and that stops the rack movement.I have be able to remove the supply line and return line on the injection pump and fill the galley of the pump housing with some PB blaster or something like that and let it set a few days.Remove the governor cover and you can us a screw driver to try to move the rack.Do this for awhile but dont force any thing.If it moves then crank the engine over some then work with moving the rack.If it frees up you can work the throttle and the stop to get the rack to go forward and backwards.Do this untill when you pull stop it will pull the rack back to the governor.Then watch the rack as you push the stop back in and the rack should move to the front of the engine some and do it freely with out mashing on the throttle.Then put some lub in the fuel of some kind.The plungers can also stick up as the cam forces them up and they can stick up but in most cases if you get the rack to move the plungers will fall back down on the cam lifters.If they have stuck from water i would not try any repairs cause damage have been done to the metal of the plungers and you cant fix that with out new plungers and barrels.Maybe you should remove the side plate first and see if any plungers are stuck up.With the galley full of PB blaster or acetone.If one is stuck up some times you can pry it down and then turn the engine watching the rest.

You need to hire that painter

Years ago i installed a 4 speed aux trans behind a 6 speed for lower gears for a house mover.We did the ujoint angles like should be but a few days later he came in with a noise.His buddy say they did not install trans right.I sent him on his way but a month later the story comes out were he had taken it to another shop and had some more work done to it but no fix.He comes in having a fit over it and take it with him and drive some more and found the peanut knok.I looks at his tires and one is flat and its mate is low.I say go fit tires and get back.I never saw truck again.I have always said on a mack rear end 3/4" difference in tires is max.

Thats what i was thinking or maybe life ant be good to him the last few weeks.

You should look at the injector line seat were it seals to the injector and make sure its not damaged

A few years back a friend of mine had a rad shop for years and his dad did before him.But the cheapo rads was not repairable so he saw the light.He could build custom rad to fit any thing and his replacement cores was made from copper but it got were you could buy a new cheapo cheaper.My CH needed a rad and from mack i paid little over 800.00 for a new one then i open it up and its Aluminium with plastic tanks.

When you say safety valve i think your talking about the valve that goes in the supply line to the control valve.Years ago i saw them replaced with a simple manual on/off shut off valve.The control valve is the one which is hard to find.

Were i live there is a store that rebuilds them.They can recore them like a rad.

maybe a little Butt hurt cream would help.

I put a 13 speed behind this engine one time and learn that above 1700 rpm you was below the torque range above that.So i found with the 13 speed to keep it under 1800 rpm or shift it like a 9 speed and use the full rpm range.Hope this makes sense.

Easy way to check for belt problems is take it down the road and stop and spray some soapy water or belt dressing on the belts and get back in and mash on it again.If it still there then you may have a turbo boost leak.I check that with a fitting i made to go in the piping from turbo to the air/air cooler.Ii have small hose connected to the fitting i put in the piping with regulated air pressure of 25 psi from the shop air.Air it up angainst the heads and listen or spray with soapy water.You may have to turn the engine slowly till your air pressure comes up as hi as you can get it.

Sounds like some one is hurt over something.

And maybe more rpm which i am against

And for as a marine engine just thing about it ,its got the sea as a radiator

Well it will give us all something to talk about for a few days.I dont think the engine will live long with making 600 HP.

Its a dream.

Cause once you see it falling and your eyes get around to telling your brain that you need to move its too late like your only a spot of grease from now on.Please brace it up more than good.