theakerstwo

I had a bobtail that for about three years i had same problem.It has two drops and i found what the problem.Both of mine and many of my friends had same problem.Too much caster.When you would hit a bump some times one or both would go nuts.Mine was about 12 to 14 degrees.I shimed them to 5 degress and you cant make them shake.Two different friends of mine did same thing and no problem.Its just like your steer axle on the truck if you turn it all the way to the left one side of the truck rises and the other side lowers.If you turn it all the way to the right one side raises and the other side lowers.So if you go down the road and hit a chuck hole then your wheel will shimmy some but with too much caster it goes nuts.If you have a big truck front end alignment shop around call him and ask if he has seen this.Set you caster and make sure your toe/in is about 1/16 you will be happy.Let us know what happens.

When you plastic gauge the mains make sure and jack the crank up with jack to get the dead weight off or the brgs.

joey i think run out would mean .020 off center and if the specs in the manual say that then i would be off center.I was only guessing from most engines will give about .010.I need to stop guessing.

I may be wrong but i dont remember that.I have never seen one on any mack that was off center unless the block was line bored but then it would be very little off center.When we did dial them and found one off it was always a bad housing or distorded or broken.In later years on a E6 and E7 i got were i would not put a dial on one if it was a replacement.You want to see from top to bottom same and from one side to the other same and i think the reading can be as much as .010 off center.

I use blue locktite on all bolt rear of block.

A small tip on the oil pump.If you change it make sure and count the drive gear teeth before you install.Its got to be same as the old pump.

I saw one RD that had same problem and it was found to have a bad or loose connection in the harness pass thru connector on right side firewall.

Len get back in here we would like for you to feel welcome in here.

i thing its the way its programed to shut down or just give you a warning but maybe Len will chime in here and help.

I been wanting to know about that myself.Its good to have a go/to man on here for such info.Thanks in advance.

Manders is also a dealership.

Len keep posting cause i have already learned alot from your post.We need more of your talent in here.

On my bushings i tryed to grease them every saturday as well as the throw out brg.

That was a smart ideal

That elbow is cast iron and it bolts to the manifold so the elbow will stay in place.

Joey i missed your Birthday so have a happy day and many more.

The filter of 236gb311a is a full flow/bypass combination meaning its two filter in one and it would have to have three lines to it.This filter you have i think is a after market and i have never seen one.

That engine was easy to twist the crank line bore out of aligment when getting more power than factory.

If i remember right that outlet will have a seal ring on it like a piston ring.

That will be a full flow filter instead of a 750 being it is a G75 means it a mack engine.A photo of it would tell us more but it should have two big oil lines and one small line to it right?If it does the element is a 236GB311A.On engines older than that they did use a 500 luberfinner and no full flow but the pan had a big inspection cover in the bottom of the pan and you should remove it and clean a screen inside of it.Itwill bleed its self like 750 but takes a few.

This is true but the nipples coming out of the pumps are same thread.That is how you can use a E 6 pump as a spare for a E7 like i have couple times.

It both have a four bolt mounting to the block and have the AFC or puff limiter on top of the governor then you can trade the drive gears on the pump from one to the other they will work and run.How ever the calibration will be different.I have did this on two of mine.The timing marks on the E7 will be on the flywheel thru the bottom of the flywheel housing.The timing needs to be on or damage will be seen to the engine.

On a superliner i did have i had dyntard on it and put jakes on it later.I think the dynatard works better than the jakes.

When i started to work for mack there was alot of H models around and this brings back good time memories.

on the three wire sensor the harness will have only one wire with reference voltage