theakerstwo

If the back box shifts stiff look at the linage on top of the trans for the rear box.There is some grease zerts that the two rails go thru and they may need clean and regreased.

I have done this with a RW and i had to use the E6 exhaust manifold.The mounts are same.I did change my exhaust from 4" to 5" with muffler.The throttle linkage may need to be altered.After running a E7 you will not want another E6.

I to say if the filter is half full it dont tell you much.

What he said is were you start first. If it is a shimmy at all speeds then its not worn out parts or a bad shock.Its always good to switch to some know good tires before you go the money route.

The 9 speed C was a 13 speed with the splitter block out.The 9LL is not that way.Why do you want a 13 speed?Are you after more speed?

I wish there was something i could say to help but just be thankfull you had him as long as you did and also for giving you a wife.

Yes the pump has to come off and also the pump to engine timing is very importan so do it as the manual says instead of just bolting it back on.I know you can get it to run by just bolting it back on but you can be off as nuch as maybe 8 degress and that could be too much.

Right there it is.Dont matter how much you set the rack extension out the rack will move only so for untill you take that tamper pruff screw out.

It has been 45 years since i have worked on those pumpsn but if i remenber right you have to remove the pump and take the front housing off of the pump housing.Then on the front end of the rack was a screw screwed in to the end of the rack with shims under it.This was to keep drivers from getting under the governor cover and setting the rack out for more fuel.Way it worked was it would limit the travel of the rack by the screw hitting the housing even if you set the rack out in the governor.If i have it wrong let some of the old timers tell you.We would take the screw out of the end of the rack and toss it.If it was not this pump it was one older than this but i think this is same thing.If you would post a photo it would help.The pump i am talking about will havea alumin cylinder looking thing with a screw in the middle on the front of the pump housing.The screw was were we would remove and put a depth mic in to measure the rack extension.

When i started to work on trucks the F model was still in producion and i have raised the cab on alot of them. The first cabs did not have a jake to raise them but had two torsion bars up front to help raise them.

I think the problem with wedge brakes was once they were ready for new shoes guys did not tear them down and replace the adjusting screw and pawl and use water proof grease with a new seal.The adjuster then seize up and then no brakes.And always replace the drum.But there is so much to go wrong with them that any one with good sense got rid of them due to the cost to keep good brakes.The good side of wedge brakes was early years trucks with small air compressors could pull doubles due to it dont take much air to apply the brakes like a S cam. We work on them and had good luck with them but there is no reason for such brake now.I always said the shoes would last for ever because they did not tough the drum very often.

I could be a bad solinold or bad o/rings under them letting oil thru at all times.

If rings are worn out then the liners are also.Ifthe liners and rings are worn out so is the valve guilds and valve stems.

Photo please

You can count the teeth on the starter and check the count on the electric starter then also those starters can be indexed to fit which side you need it on.

I have a problem thinking a mechanic would spend some time in a joint like that.

I am sure happy this woman did not win.

If your like me you need to stay on the project or i will forget what i was working on.There i go calling that work again.Its just playing with trucks ant it.

Pos cable goes to the end of the starter and neg cable goes to the starter lug.Starters dont care which is ground.Just wire it like that and there will be no problem.

There is more things that can cause it to not start when it sets.One thing can cause a problem is loosing it fuel prime as well as low fuel pressure.Timing needs checked.

Those two fire marshal women didnt find that gas can sitting there in the ashes so they was watching you instead of doing their job.

A guy could make a fair living with that here working it on hourly jobs.

END673 is a hi compression piston so 300 is on the low side but what problem are you having?All of them are the same so its not missing from low compression so that part is good to run.

I have used Alumitank two times and well pleased with the tanks.They will custom build as i had oil in one end and fuel in the other end.

My ranger is about ready to replace but the price may tell me i need to keep this one some more.