Freightrain

I downloaded one of the 765 run bys. Just shakes the ground. Got a hair full of soot and leaves!

Well, maybe it just seems like a smaller opening. Guess a tape measure won't lie.

Likely "wiggle room" for factory assembly and not worrying if it will fit. Is there enough room behind the dash for the plumbing? You realize the drivers door will no longer open as far? I'm a skinny ass but it is still a bitch to get in the passenger side of the truck. I put a felt bumper on the air cleaner bracket so as not to accidentally dent my fresh NOS door shells if you happen to throw the door open too hard.

The smaller 53 ci motors really buzz when you wind them up. Something the larger 71 and 92 just dont do.

Last month the Cuyahoga Valley brought the Nickel Plate 765 over from Indiana and used it for their excursion for a couple weekends. We rode it, they dump you off and do a couple fly bys for video and pictures. I have them on my phone, I need to get them over to youtube so others can enjoy it. It just sends chills down my spine. I'd really like to get to see a Big Boy in person someday. I really enjoyed the restoration videos that UP put up. I couldn't imagine what it took to do that locomotive. No different then what worked on actually.

Very cool!! Im a member of a local railway preservation society and they are rebuilding old 4020. It used to pull the excursion for the Cuyahoga Valley. I rode it back on the 70s. I am not active with them just due to my own schedule and the 1+hr drive to get to Cleveland. I did take the opportunity to drive their old 49 Alco RS3 a few years back when they offered 1 hr at the throttle. My father was a big railfan, as am I.

Lots of pullers run them behind hot V8 macks.

Does an R model have the removable stop plate for the window? You need to get that off first to allow the window to drop low enough to clear the top of door( If it is like a B model). If the window is broke loose and at the bottom of the door it might take some finesse to get door panel out while juggling the window glass. Yes, remove lock cylinder and not sure about outside door handle?(again not sure how it compares to a B).

The short can(bottom pic) is also a winter(cold climate) version if I recall where it can pull air from the engine compartment so it has less chance of freezing. Or is there two short versions? I bought my riser for my air cleaner from Matt Pfahl. Its a chrome pipe.

Tom is "Fuzzy Buzzard".

I saw a clip on facebook the other day where some news media got him at home and was interviewing him. He was adamant about not discussing the event but they were asking him questions. He kept stating he was just being nice to even say anything. Once done he basically told them to leave his family alone. Found it.

Tom Gannaway did a conversion on his wrecker to get a pull clutch for his eaton 10 spd. Used the existing pedal and such and then somehow reversed it on the frame. He told me how, but it's been a year ago?

I have a tank with electric valve but when I got the alum tank it had air valve and getting that big valve unscrewed from the alum tank wasn't happening....so I left it alone.

But do the lights work??

Dennis, when I converted mine over I followed Vince VanNewkirks advice. Ditch the old steam valve in the cab and install a tank mounted valve with remote operation. I really wanted that old valve but Vince said it would always be a problem. He runs air start on all his work trucks. The alum tank came with air operated valve on the tank(wished it would have been electric so I could use existing starter button). I bought a new air push button for the dash, rebuilt the valve on the tank and a new check valve into the tank. It holds over 100# for 7 months with no problem. The only line off the tank goes to the starter so there are no chances for leaks while sitting. The control valve is all new so it too should last a long time.

Maybe its the 517 axle that is the bastard part trying to swap hubs? Just a guess.

I thought I tried crossing hubs over just from the king pins. Seems it went no where. Maybe I just got wrong information?

For a work truck I would keep them up as that is what the tire is designed to run at with a specific weight. For a toy I run mine down for better ride quality with minimal weight on them.

That first trip out fo the garage is always the best! Its all dowhill from there. Congrats.

I have information in my collection of stuff about contacting someone a long time ago and we researched all the bearing numbers and spacings and tried crossing stuff over to see if anything bolted on from Mack. Not sure how easy that would be to do with other manufacturers? I have the 517 axle.

I haven't gone that far. I had thoughts if I can match the king pin but then there is tie rod ends to match or make work. I guess it all depends on what axle you have under your truck and how odd it is compared to newer stuff. I guess I haven't been that diehard about it.

Wow... that's a beast!

Lol....no, likely trimming the carpet or sumthin....

Ditto Bob. Ive given more stuff away(or scrapped) because I dont want to deal with selling it.

I dont think they are referring to cars only, but vehicles in general. Poor maintenance was likely more the cause for failure. Oil back then was horrible also. Most engines were wore out by 50-70k miles. Today its 200k+. Big truck engines have 2x, 3x lifespan now also.