Freightrain

Of course.........priorities, priorities..........

We have car cruises coming out the ying yang from May to Oct. Any place you look, even during the week, has some kind of cruise in. I haven't been to one in a very long time, just lost interest in sitting in a parking lot. Heck I hardly even drive the hot rods anymore...........man does that make me old? Or do I just feel old? Ugh. I was at Milan, Michigan last weekend for the Reunion race, our group runs in it.

Now that it has been a few weeks and I've used it, I can feel a slight difference in tension compared to an original. I needed to find a STIFFER spring for the next ones. Likely just a larger wire diameter. I think I used a .047 wire. I felt a .062 but it seemed too stiff. I think it would be a tighter latch and likely use one on the next latch I rebuild. Mike, only problem is we only have weather that is bearable for about 3 months a year....and it ain't around December!!!

Nice. Looks like it can just peg that tach at will without breaking a sweat. Sounds good.

Unfortunately we don't have a TK to have a party at. I can guarantee it won't ever be called Ash-mud-land like some other show I've heard stories about. LOL!!

I didn't change the rubber portion, so mine just slipped on/off real easy like. I was surprised as I've heard they get beat up and loose. I was pleasantly surprised when mine was in nice shape. I just changed the front hub due to the 237 having a different set up then the 673. I had to put my 673 hub/balancer on the 237. I didn't heat the mount, only the hub for the balancer. Like I said, don't over heat it as it could melt the rubber seal/mount after it soaks in. The old manual I have says don't use a torch.

Once again, we have our annual show that weekend. Someday we'll get out to see you guys? http://www.ohvintrkjam.com/

Well, I just had mine apart, I would suggest jacking the motor up and sliding the mount off and repairing it and sliding it back on. For reinstalling the front hub, I just put it in the oven at about 200* or so for about 1/2 hour(it didn't stink up the house at that temperature). It slipped on effortlessly. Don't want it too hot as it will overheat the seal and possibly distort it.

About 1/2+" up from where the pin comes out the bottom. The threaded insert is about that long. Gives you something good to weld into when re assembling it. See 2nd picture from last. They didn't upload in the order I put them. The top picture you can see the lower mount is on backwards compared to the assembled picture below it. I cut the mount and swapped it around once I realized it was backwards. I edited the post to help tell what I did with each part. I originally posted from my phone to allow me quick download of the pictures. I added more text between the pictures to help make it easier to understand what I did.

the spring cost $1.46 and about 1 hour of my time.

Well another 15 years and another latch gave up. No spring pressure left. New latches are square and $70 each. Not what I want to spent or have. After careful consideration I thought I could fix what I have. Sure enough worked! Cut the body apart with thin cutoff wheel at the bottom end. Now they do unscrew but likely never get it apart. I cut it about 1/2" from the end. It came apart and showed how the spring was in pieces. I then ground the head of the pin off so I could get the top off. I then measured the pieces and found something close at the hardware store. I then re assembled it and welded the cap on the pin and then welded the body together. Some paint and you would never know it was apart. I did constantly dunk it in cold water to keep the spring from loosing tension from heat soak(note I figured this out after ruining one spring). Also make sure you assemble the lower portion of latch correctly or you might have to cut and weld it on correctly(ya I found that out the hard way). In all it was easy and cheaper then new. Looks correct too with the round style body. welding the top back on the rod to hold spring: Completed assembly All the pieces cut apart, broken spring included: This is just after I cut the latch apart: This is the dimple you need to grind off to remove the cap on the end of the rod to get spring removed:

Looking good. Don't want to know the stack of receipts for all that. I know it is better then a payment book for a new truck!

Should be 673. Don't know who has it, but it is suppose to be here somewhere in town if someone had some interest and wanted a set of eyes on it.

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5592172157.html We have an all original 1951 Mack Tractor.Single axle with a duplex transmission.Will fire and run right now.Runs great.The reason for the stack laying on frame is because we had to dismount it to fit in are basement.Asking $10,500.00 obo. Not mine.

I've seen these but ALWAYS just cringe at the fact that IF something goes awry on the valve and it dumps all the oil out of your motor. Ugh. Granted my RV Onan genset as a similar kind of water spigot valve and it works fine. I've only got one vehicle that gets more then one change a year so I've never bought one. Thought about it, just haven't.

I used to have 1/2 and 1/2 Lucas and gear oil in it. Made it kinda stiff to shift til it got warm. I changed it out about 6-7 yr ago to just gear lube. I could try it again. I know one of my PTO plates is starting to seep a bit(replaced a rotted one a few years ago), so I might drain it, seal it up and put 1/2 and 1/2 in again. I think I found a rattle last night, seems my front passenger hood latch is broke(original), as the spring inside must have gave up. It just hangs on the latch and rattles, thus allowing the front of the hood to be loose. I think that might be some of the strange sound I heard coming home last weekend.

My voices are strong! LOL. It does make some unusual noises that were never there before. Sometime I can downshift a few gears and come back to OD and it is quiet. Strange. It always had some rattle to it but now it is just different sounding. Trying not to be anal about it but would like an upgrade of some type.

Glenn, I'm thinking I did pull a PTO cover back when I removed the shim. I was working on the electronic speedo conversion with Rob back then. The trans was always noisy from the day I bought the truck. Taking one shim seemed to help some with the clanking/slop. With the 1K miles I put on the new motor it sure seems like things are getting worse. At least at times it seems to make more noise then others. I'm driving it with as much ease as possible. Just want to get working on some kind of upgrade, be it a rebuild or replacement. Trent, I could hang an R pedal without too much fuss I suppose. I have the tools. Guess I need to come up with all the parts to do it and have it ready for next winter? Bell, clutch, linkage, pedal, transmission.

Harry, I think mine could just use a few new bearings(it has always rattled in neutral after it gets warm). I don't think it is all that terrible gear wise. I have a local bearing house that could likely get everything I would need, if the gears needed bushings I could make those myself. I'd spend that kind of money to make it good, as it would take much more to transplant something. Jim, I'd love to have a 12 spd, that would be sweet. Don't think the pocketbook could afford it. Not sure it would work behind my single clutch bellhousing either. I really don't want to get into all that work. Not that I can't do it, I just don't want to! I want some slow Reverse as you noted I don't want to have to ride the clutch. I'd like to remove the old Spicer 6041 aux. box I have as that is also a very weak link in the chain.

I need OD. I don't want to deal with changing bell and clutch linkage if at all. Is the early 9513 doable? Just looking at options.

Ok, if I wanted to put something in to replace my Triplex, is there anything that would bolt in with minimal fuss? Single clutch, mack side mounts? I'd like to start working towards that project. The ol Triplex is not sounding any better it seems every trip I take. Put 1K miles on it so far. It goes along fine but it sure doesn't sound to well sometimes. Lots of clunks, whines, rattles while driving along. It's just really loose. Wish it was easily rebuildable but I don't think that is in the cards anymore with the lack of parts(or what it could cost to get them). I've had the rear tailhousing off before. I even pulled one shim from the bearing to tighten up the slack. It help some years back. Another 10+ yrs have taken its toll. I don't really want to get into swapping to twin disc, push type clutch, linkage. Doable, but I don't want to if I don't have to.

Great! Thanks Dave. I'm guessing those two Carter carbs are enough for that 1100 ci Hall Scott?

Or use a larger sized rubber hose and clamp it on? Or a piece of soft braided fuel line? If you are handy, drill and tap it for a small bolt and lock tite it in? Then you don't have to worry about it, though the bolt head will likely cut through the turbo line?

I like that music, nothing wrong with it. Back when you HAD to have talent because you couldn't electronically "add" talent.

Water temp only gets 200* or so. If just a pinhole then I would just JB it. Clean it up good, scuff it for some good gripping power, don't let any fall inside as you don't want pieces floating around the valve cover. Make sure to get something to keep that line from rubbing on the JB.