doubleclutchinweasel

There you have it! I thought the "plus 4" cab shared some panels with the Super.

Mmmmmm.......

is the rear panel on the Superdog the same as a R? If so, Watts may still have some.

...enough that it is noticeable... I'd say an inch at least. Feels "tighter", too.

Thanks!

Ouch!

Rusted roofs usually lead to rusted floors, rusted cab corners, and such. I wish Mack had discovered galvanized metal a few years earlier.

A "B" with a Cummins is cool...

That would definitely qualify it as a "project", wouldn't it?

I've got clean rails, too. Make me an offer?

Again...check out the link to my '70. I drive it several times a week. And, a lot of work has gone into the mechanical side of it. Mainly, it needs the cosmetic work done to it to make it pretty. Engine and trans are great. Driveline is great. Drives great. Cab is better than most steel dash trucks. It's far from a basket case.

Maybe my '70 model would work for you?

Welcome! http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/36819-1970-r600-for-sale/

My oil clarifier has always behaved well. Held oil well. Oil pressure builds quickly. No issues. After it sat for a couple of weeks, I experienced something odd. The oil drained out of it, raising the oil level in the pan, & taking a few extra seconds to build pressure. Went on like this for a couple of days. Then it dawned on me...if the filter drained, the canister would be full of air. And, with all the fittings on the bottom, there would be no way for the air to get out. And, when oil pressure built up, the air trapped in the top of the canister would become pressurized. When you shut it down, this pressurized air would push the oil out through the outfeed hose until the pressure dropped. So, I started it up, & bled the vent plug, like you do after an oil change. Problem solved. Filter now holds oil, oil level in pan is good, & the pressure builds quicker again. Been watching it for a few days now, & it's holding fine. So, if it ever drains down again, I know how to get it back to normal.

The new front spring insulators are in now, too,

Well... I went out this morning, in the awesome, cool Carolina air, and replaced the front spring insulators on the old R611. First, I removed the cross-tube, and removed the lower spring caps. Then I jacked up the front of the frame to take the load off the springs. Now, since lifting the front of the truck will allow the springs to come out of thier seats, but will also allow them to "curl" on you, I added a small jack toward the rear of each spring. This allows you to keep a little pressure on the springs, holding the rear down, and preventing the "curling". If they curl too much, you can't get the new insulators into the pockets very well. Then, I lubed up the new insulators with some dish detergent, and slid them in. It is important to note that AT NO TIME should you put your fingers/hands in the spring hanger. If the jacks let go, you would be minus some rather important apendages. Then I let the jacks down evenly, so the insulators eased into the pockets in the upper spring hanger. Next, the lower caps went on. And, finally, the cross tube went back in, and all with new hardware...a Weasel trademark! Not sure why the image, below is repeated! Sorry!

In fact, I might be coaxed into driving it to Georgia for you!

I still think you need it!

...and yet more... Actually, I'm starting to think I may have under-valued this thing! Just kidding!

...and, some more...

Some recent pictures. Trying to show the WORST aspects of the truck.

What leak? I fixed my leak. Had a bad TP3 valve. Replaced it. Leak gone. And, this one does not have Maxi-Brakes on it. It has current-production spring brakes on it.

Come on! Somebody make an offer, at least!

If I wasn't trying to sell my R already, I'd be all over that thing. Where were you when I was looking? Story of my life...

That's been superseded. It's now 634-5789...P7!