doubleclutchinweasel

I've seen doubles behind those, now that you mention it. That's a gorgeous truck!

They made 1,381 R615 trucks between 1965 & 1971. I drove a normally-aspirated one (END-864) years ago. It was only a little stronger-feeling than a normally-aspirated 6 (END-673) I drove in a B61 earlier. That non-existent title may or may not be an issue. But, NC is VERY picky about such things...especially once a vehicle achieves "antique" status. The only way to buy it might be for parts. Otherwise, you may never be able to title/tag it. It used to be that all you had to do was pay for a title search. But, now they don't even like to do that. Now, GA is a lot easier to deal with on antique stuff. After a certain age, they no longer issue a title! Or, at least that's how they were a few years ago. May still be. If you want to have some fun, try bringing in a GA vehicle with no title, and only a bill of sale, and try titling it in NC! On the other hand, if I bought a good cab, good hood, and maybe a nice single-axle rear setup, it might breathe new life into my NC-titled truck! And, as a side benefit, there would be cool parts to sell to someone else out there who needed them...like maybe a running 864. No matter. I probably won't make it out there before it sells anyway.

Yeah. Told my wife I should go look at it. She didn't quite understand! She said I couldn't even get rid of the one I have! Guess she doesn't quite understand that, if the cab is good, I might restore the cab, drop it on mine, & keep it. Or, maybe that's exactly what she understood!

Hmmm... Wonder how that cab is... Fairly close...

When you get the part numbers, let me know. I might have some spare lowers.

I'd be willing to take more than that for it, if I had to!

Great price...

There you go! That would be the ticket!

Pretty sure there was a 28K.

I saw a couple on eBay a while back. But, you never know what you are going to get there. I bought mine from Stewart-Warner. Now, it does NOT have the bulldog head on it. And, it does not match the speedometer perfectly. BUT, it DOES match perfectly with the other gauges in the panel. That is probably because lots of those gauges were S-W units themselves. Incidentally, there is a S-W speedometer which matches the tachometer I bought. So, ALL the gauges could be made to match! Check out S-W numbers 82620 & 82622. Incidentally, you probably need a 0.5:1 ratio on your tach, meaning that the drive cable turns 1/2 the engine speed. At least that's what my R took...and it probably came with the same tach. Ordered mine through FinditParts. There is also the PAI version available for a few dollars less (FTA-0550?).

Yep! That's me!

Mid-Liners can be a bit troublesome to get parts for, as I understand. I saw several which could be bought cheap, but the parts deal made them less attractive for me. I would assume you could weasel any type of mid-size diesel into one...with enough time and money. The first thing that pops into my mind is a Cummins out of a mid-sized truck (ISC?). Those were used in pretty much everything at one time or another, it seems like. Ford used them in their F650 line, and of course Dodge used a butt-load of them. I'd bet the Sterling (still a Dodge) trucks had a few, too. Or, how 'bout one of the Cats out of a GM medium-duty?

Actually got a little road time in this morning. Wow! Can't believe what a difference those insulators made. The bumps and jolts from the road are FAR less noticeable through the steering wheel...and the seat! Makes the whole front end of the truck feel tighter and more stable. Best bang for the buck you can do to the front of one of these rubber-mounted trucks. By the way, the old ones were worn down to the point that the retainer caps could be bolted on with virtually no compression of the rubber whatsoever. When I put the new ones on, they started compressing as soon as the bolts started in the holes. So, there is a LOT more rubber under compression in there now. No wonder it's tighter, huh?

Sounds like we may need some Geek help...

Different computer works okay.

I tried it again. Same result. Won't show the quote. Maybe just this computer...

Why the hell can't I use the "QUOTE" function today?

Zenon Clayton Raymond Hansen. May he rest in peace. Without him, we wouldn't have what we have today. He was the man!

Come on! Make me an offer! All I can do is say, "No." Can't cook ya' and eat ya'...

"...let us redefine progress to mean that, just because we can do a thing, it does not necessarily follow that we MUST do that thing..."

When you pumped it, did you hear fuel going back to the tank?If you remove the supply line beyond the primer, at the injection pump, can you pump fuel out of this line with the primer while hot? The manual I have shows no temperature shutoff device. So, if it has one somewhere, I don't know anything about it. I hate to be of no help, but I'd try cranking it over when it dies, and see how far along the system it gets fuel. Maybe the bypass in the injection pump is bypassing all the fuel? Again, sorry. I'm being worse than useless now.

Maybe pump up the primer, & see if it'll restart hot...

Like maybe a lift pump going bad?

If I can remember this evening, I'll look at the fuel system section in my old service book, and see if they mention any kind of gizmoid device which could be a temperature-related fuel shut-off.

If there's a circuit, I would think it would have to go to the fuel pump. Isn't that a mechanical pump, with the "pull knob to shut off"? If so, the pump wouldn't have any wires on it normally? Maybe some added fuel shutoff valve somewhere? Beats me!