doubleclutchinweasel

Yep. Not much evidence left of the bridge. And this was a few years ago. Even less there now.

Oh. You were back in my home town! Where were you at over there?

A light duty Mack transmission (like a TR-77) was common behind the 413.

I definitely think someone has mismatched parts in that kit. I mean, these are NOT that uncommon. Bunches of them were done by the guys on here. And, I don't think it is a matter of a wrong kit number. The bushings do not appear to fit the pins! That screams mismatch to me. Refer to the picture I posted of the kit I had for mine. Everything stacked up fine on the bench. And, I bet that kit SHOULD have had the seals with it too. I don't know if what you got was a real Mack kit or something somebody cobbled together and put a Mack part number on. All I do know is that this is a pisser. Might want to see if the eBay seller will accept a return. There's a "correct" kit out there somewhere. If I was close to you, and had access to a machine shop, I could MAKE you a set of bushings to fit that pin and axle. And, no. This type of pin did not have a locking flat on them. That is common on straight pins. These are merely held in place by the locking effect of the taper. Easy out. Easy in. I just hate that the pieces you got do not match up. Again...a real pisser.

Here's a little more. Has a green one part-way down.

I have nothing to help you. But, look at the one in this older thread.

Everybody give a tip of the hat to GA_Dave's location of Jonesboro. Site of many of the Smokey and the Bandit filming locations.

Something is definitely not right here. Those types of bushings are typically not reamed. They usually have a thin layer of material on the inside that provides the wear surface. Reaming will remove that, and it will be steel-on-steel. I'm at a bit of a loss here. Something is definitely not adding up. Maybe Freightrain can offer some advice. I know he has done a B model set.

I ordered an aftermarket on for my '70. Fit fine. Can't remember who I got it from. One of the common parts houses though. PAI maybe? Maybe though FindItParts?

Any damage to the fuel tank where the supply line comes out? Can you pump the primer and hear fuel going back into the tank?

Exactly what I have seen. Not sure why the ones he has won't slip onto the pins. Maybe out-of-round while in the free state? Is it possible they sent him mismatched parts? Wish we were all in one place so we could talk about it!

What do you think about the bushings apparently NOT slipping onto the pins? I've never seen a reamed split bushing.

September 16th!

"If the only thing upstanding in your family is a CB antenna..."

That's really odd. Never seen a split bushing that needed to be reamed. JoJo, Mecho? Sound odd to you?

Amen, JoJo! Easier than most pickup trucks!

I'll bet those can just be pressed in place. Should have some clearance if placed on the pins on the bench. Just be sure to line up the holes with the grease supply ports so you can grease them. I think you have the "no ream" types there, from the pictures and your description.

Actually, it says "KNOW your line...". Very fitting slogan for a salesman. Know what you are selling and you can sell it more effectively.

Had that happen to an ammeter on a school activity bus I was driving one time. Unhooked the battery to keep it from going up in flames. Straight-wired it to get it back to school. Last time I saw it, it was an the hook, headed for the repair garage. Guess they didn't know how to straight-wire it!

Right? Boat: (noun) A hole in the water where you throw money.

Oh, and if the bushings are a thin steel sleeve with a coating inside them, there should be no reaming. If they are solid brass/bronze, they may have to be line-reamed once in place. Do you have pictures of your kit? The guys on here might be able to tell you more about that if they could see exactly what you have. Also, if the bushings are a tight fit or a no-go on the pins already, then reaming will be a must. But, if they have noticeable clearance on the pins in the free state, it may not be necessary after installation. Keep us informed.

Exactly.

Here are pictures of “Type 3” knuckles, which I THINK is correct for a FA505. One has a needle bearing and the other doesn’t. I am also attaching a picture of a “Type 2”, which uses a different thrust bearing setup. I hope this helps.

You know, I may have a good picture of that in my service manual. If I can remember to do it, I will look at it tonight. Seems like it had good instructions, too.

Here is a great picture of how the components stack up. I hope this will help explain how the tapered pins work. Like the man said above, the tapered part seats in the axle beam. The bearings/bushings go into the knuckle. And the thrust bearing is adjusted into place with the big nut on the bottom.