Lmackattack

Any reason a E6 350hp american bosh pump cant swap on to my ENDT676 (285)? My pump is leaking fuel and hard starts, It likely needs a rebuild, I found a 350 pump for cheap and was thinking of just swaping it over but not sure the calabration would work with my 6 speed. most 350s I drove pulled good down low but they all had 7 or more gears. thoughts?

Its hand punched so I figure it has to be something from the factory and now that I see yours has it as well that would make sence. Just never noticed it before

Thank you.

Put a c15 in and sleep well every night

I just bought a replacement kit for this compressor. Can anybody verify with me that this unloader valve is definitely sticking. The truck has a hard time building.Air pressure. It can take up to twenty minutes at idle to reach cut out psi.

I'm getting ready to pull my air compressor off and notice these numbers stamped into the passenger side of the block to the rear of the air compressor. What are these numbers telling me?

Run, run Rudolpf, Santa has to make it to town.....

that is a Mead Excavating truck that is a few miles from me in Grayslake IL They have all older macks but I think the family is selling off everthing. His family was connected to the Northern IL mack dealership. now owned by CIT group

not that this will help much with why your truck is feeling sluggish but at work I drive a 2002 355/370HP with a mack 9 speed/4.17 and it will easily out pull all the other trucks with 350 macks/10 speeds. the 10 speed is just a horrible trans in my opinion. the gear spacing is poor in some gears and fine in others where a 8LL, 9 speed, 13 or 18 seam to have better spacing and faster shifts allowing the engine to keep pulling in the rpm range in likes. I never liked a 10 speed

Thinking of installing 2 load lights on the rear wall of the granite I drive. Looking to remove the current light seen in the picture and drill a hole to recess a load light in its place Then do the same on the driver's side. Hopeful I dont need to remove the cab back interior as I can feed wires thru from outside. Are there any braces in the rear wall structure that prohibit cutting a hole in these part of the cab?

If you are staying local with your truck and you have a mack dealer near you, you will be fine with mack rears. If you are over the road you might consider eaton or Meritor simply for parts availability when out on the road. Also If your truck has a dump bed or other body mounted to the frame know that mack rears have to come out from above where others can slide out from under the truck. that can make a big diffrence in servicablity reasons. If you do go with mack rears I strongly suggest to avoid going with Macks automatic powerdivider. Get a manual power divider and manual full locking main diff so that the truck has good traction with the air ride. Mack rears are good but I kinda lean towards off breed just for parts cost reasons. Mack seams to be the highest price for parts out of all the truck mfg out there. then the parts shortages that seam to come with Mack. not sure if other mfg have the same issues but I know Pete never had issues getting me parts where Mack often did. Im in chicagoland so We have just about every dealer ship around here plus parts warehouses

I have noticed that as well. No one can tell why some may have it and others dont.

the springs are definatly thicker than my 34k. the no transverse rod has me scratching my head. I thought 38k and above used them? this truck sees only a few hundreed miles a year and I have no clue the history of it.

And while were here can you ID the rear rating? It looks like a welded axle im thinking 38K?