Where Do You Draw the Line on Updates?

[matty5790]

I’ve owned and worked on a few older trucks over the years, and one thing I still see debated is how far to go with updates on classic Macks. I’ve always tried to keep changes either invisible or easily reversible brakes, wiring, cooling, gearing mainly so the truck can be used without hurting its originality. At the same time, once you start cutting or modernizing too much, you lose what makes the truck a Mack.
For those of you who have restored or run these trucks long term, what upgrades have you found worthwhile, and what do you avoid altogether? Does rarity or intended use change your approach?
Interested in hearing real world experiences.

[Brocky]

Are you going to use it for work or hobby/show??? For work dependability is probably your first concern?? For a show / hobby truck, are you going to drive it or trailer it?? Thankfully there are not too many car concourse picky people in the hobby to get fussy about changes. Do you want a museum quality restoration?? Do you plan to sell it to a fussy collector???  I know, more questions than answers!!!

[mowerman]

Not sure what you’re looking for but to me antique car shows I don’t care for louvered hoods or changing cool stock steering wheels to some hitious  custom job or modern custom wheels seem to me spoiling the looks … especially if someone did a dynamite job on paint and body work then put ugly wheels on it … Bob

[Freightrain]

I like stock stuff but also like tastefully done changes.  The crazy build stuff is ok, but not my cup of tea.  You'll never find a set of 12" stacks on my truck, ever.

I'm cringing at putting a 13 spd in my B but I want something that will put up with my new powerplant.  A real set of boxes is out of my price range.

Like I say, build it as you want.  Screw the haters.

[mowerman]

well larry 13 speed would be ideal   good luck,,,2 sticks can be a pain in the ass especially with something you use quite often,,,,most of us started on them,,,but thier definately outdated,,,for a reason,,,lol.bob

[Geoff Weeks]

My view is mine alone, your truck to do as you want. A little longer wheel base, I'm fine with,  a 300in + wheel base on a B model, not so much.

I changed a lot of stuff on my trucks and they were all "working trucks". Each up grade was thought out and for practical purpose. 

I have no problem changing a set of sticks for a 13 spd Eaton or even visa versa.  Putting a 2nd stick in for a 13 spd Eaton to trigger the splitter gear, not so much.

Trucks were always being upgraded or "customized" to better fit the occupation they were used for.  A little"taste"goes a long way.

[mowerman]

not really sure where this guy is going with his question but not too many modifications are going to bring down interest or price on these big rigs,,,,and your not going to get back what you put in $$$ unless possibly a ground up restoration with receipts and do all the labor yourself,,,,you might atleast get your money back,,,,but in most cases your not going to get car prices on these things,,,,automobiles are a completely different story,,bob

[Freightrain]

57 minutes ago, mowerman said:

well larry 13 speed would be ideal   good luck,,,2 sticks can be a pain in the ass especially with something you use quite often,,,,most of us started on them,,,but thier definately outdated,,,for a reason,,,lol.bob

I have 25 yrs stirring my sticks.  They are novel but like I said, two big boxes are out of my price range.  I would have spent 3x what I have in my Eaton compared to buying a set of used 5x4, 6x4 boxes.

Though at the rate I am burning up cash on the rest of this winters upgrades it really isn't that far out of reach.  😆

[mowerman]

I’ve driven a few 13 speed there’s plenty of gears if you can find one that fits in good shape and don’t have to travel around the country to pick it up good luck 

[Latrobe Construction B-61]

I am on the leave it as original as possible side of things, but I am definitely on board with changing old style air brakes to modern 30/30 cans.  A simple hole drilled in the dash for the knob is the biggest thing noticed.     

[Brocky]

1 hour ago, Latrobe Construction B-61 said:

I am on the leave it as original as possible side of things, but I am definitely on board with changing old style air brakes to modern 30/30 cans.  A simple hole drilled in the dash for the knob is the biggest thing noticed.     

LC is correct if you plan on just showing the truck.. But if you plan on working it everyday upgrading for reliability would be a must.. So far the original poster has not answered any of the questions asked..

[T-Mack1]

Like said above, driving it down the road verse trailering changes stuff.  And ours, a firetruck (from a major city to boot) adds to the decisions.

Safety becomes an issue if driving down the road.   We changed our "Service Only" brake chambers on our '57 B85F to have spring brake chambers on the rear.   We are planning to drive the grand kids around and that was a no brainer.  Yes, very visible and had to add the yellow knob on the dash.  The QRV is hidden under the firetruck "turntable" ( the equivalent of a fifth wheel but is for a permanent mount fire trailer (Hook & Ladder)).

 The firetruck dual starter buttons , the two separate battery systems and the run the ignition off "Battery A or B" switch is a discussion Jack and I have repeatedly.    I'm leaning towards keeping it, but battery technology today verse 1957 makes it almost not needed, especially on a truck that's no longer on emergency response duty.    So, keep it because it's sort of neat, or get rid of it (or not use the buttons but leave them in place) because it's not needed....??  

Paint..... On a working truck, unless it has Historical value (like a UPS truck, or the Bethlehem Steel truck at the Museum), it's a new owner choice.  That includes doing one of those patina looks.  On ours, as a firetruck, a previous owner (Mr. Barton from East Hampton, CT) repainted the truck and put his own lettering on it.  "Barton" on the hood, and "Ladder 1" over "East Hampton" on the doors.  It originally had "Boston"  "Fire Department" on the hood, and "Ladder 11" on the doors.   After a bunch of talking,  where I really wanted it back to the Boston Scheme, verse a "Mack Family" scheme,  I think we are headed to the Boston scheme.   More Historic, and a conversation starter.   There is a thought to have a list of owners somewhere but that is far from important at this time.

Trolley valve......  the trailer is long gone, so it does nothing (lines are plugged).  Jack is leaning on getting rid it.  My plan is to convert it to a type of manual Hill-Start (Mack "Grade Gripper").   Our treadle is a single circuit type,  so easier to work on.   I picked up a double check valve at the Mack Museum garage sale this past October.  It has 2 inputs, 1 output. where one input shuts off the other.  This will prevent the Trolley valve from venting thru the not pressed brake treadle and venting air and, vice-a-verse, when using the brake pedal, air venting out the trolley valve vent.   That's going to be a hidden upgrade, so not many people would understand it's there.   Note,  I also picked up a modern 2 circuit treadle and a  governor (compressor un-loader) at the garage sale, both NOS.   Converting to Primary and Secondary air.......  talk about a lot of work.   Good work, but very tedious.

Then there's the wiring.  Restore to original functions or make it more modern.  It's mostly hidden so only some people will notice.  For ours,  Doug Maney, the curator of the Mack Historical Museum, said to me  "Tom, you will find that firefighters think they are electricians, but they are not".  Need I say more.    In the rewiring, I keep wanting to make it more modern (the electronic tech in me) , using more relays to shut things off when the key is turned off (yes, adding a key is another upgrade for a firetruck).  Jack, the Master Electrician,  wants to keep it simple and that means more original.   

Wheels, Update or keep original.  That's more on how much you want to spend.  Shiny Aluminum, modern size rims, etc etc.  We have 11.00-20 tires on the 3 piece Budd rims (sliding ring (bead ring) that hold the split lock ring in place).  The price of 20 inch truck tires is rather high now a days, because they are now custom ordered at most places.  So we are converting to 22.5 inch Budd rims.   Wanted the "Five opening" rims, but they are hard to find.   Picked up 6 Accuride  "Two opening" rims at a great price.  But now I have a lead on 4 "five opening" ones, and if we get them, 4 of the two opening rims will be available.   We now got tires for the rims.  Just a matter of sanding and painting the rims.

Dream:   add a second row of seating for the grandkids.   That will be a very noticeable modification.  But, depending if a lead on another "open cab"  cab pans out , it could look awesome and raise the value.  And I would like to make it a bolt on addition, so it could go back to a Tractor-Drawn-Aerial-Ladder if someone "gives" us a tiller trailer and a free space to store it.

So........    the decision seems to be a Concourse Trailer Queen or a Driver.    We're going for the "driver" restoration. 

 

[mattb73lt]

I like the original look, but I always intend to drive my trucks. Sometimes very far from home. Reliability, safety and comfort are big considerations. Tires/rims(radials, 22.5/24.5 sizes), maxi brakes, air ride or spring ride seats, spin-on filters. I've built them to do what I need them to do and to go places and haul my other cars to events and tours. I try to make them nice, but as they're going to get used, they're not perfect. Upgrades to electrical systems like alternators and 12V starters are all geared for repairs on the road, just in case. Getting stranded away from home is a concern, so I try to update things that are common over the counter parts. I also carry some spares with me that might be hard to get, water pumps, small parts, things that might be hard to get on the road. I'm not big on a lot of chrome, but I do add some and try to keep them close to period looking.

[davehummell]

On my B I did upgrade the truck to help the ride and steering with my injured back and shoulder on my 31 Model A coup I added led tail and turn signal lights for safety and upgraded the steel brake drums to cast drums and modified the stock engine a bit to keep up to traffic on the road. My 32 Ford pickup has disc front brakes upgraded suspension plus a 9 inch Ford rear 302 and a C-4 trans it stops pretty good and it also will keep up with traffic also led turn and taillights