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Well, another update.  Not a good one, but work has been done.

I got an injector puller and tried it today.  Lots of air chisel and wrenching.....got ONE out.  That's it.  I got another one about 1/2 out and it pulled the spacer out.  Not sure if it screwed the threads in the injector?  Will get an m10x1.0 tap from work and check it tomorrow night.

Two injectors have different threads(larger) in the injector compared to the other four.  I stripped one of those spacers already.  I think the puller has those thread adapters to fit.  Haven't checked into it.

I loaded stuff up and brought home so I can work on them easier.

WTF was Mack thinking with this design?  It has near 3" of injector you have to PULL out.  A simple undercut would have made this a WHOLE lot easier.  Maybe an O ring at the top to keep crud out?  Anything.

I called local pump shop.  Ya, cubic money no matter what I even consider doing.  That's a no go.  I may have him go through the injectors or replace the ones that get screwed up.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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This is pretty common with pulling injectors on anything with a bit of age 

I have tried a puller once and just tore the top out of the injector

Once the injector is stuffed just turn the head upside down and belt it out with a chisel and big hammer, don't miss the punch or you'll likely stuff the head completely 

I only use the pry bars I had shown before and just work away slowly at it

These are simple compared to some old Cat stuff with nuts and special spanners

They take a lot of time to get out 

 

Paul

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Ya, such a stupid arrangement.  Definitely not made for "ease of maintenance".  I guess they design it for a lifetime of use only.

I looked at pricing heads and that was $4000 a pair.  Guess I will be pounding these out.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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3 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

Ya, such a stupid arrangement.  Definitely not made for "ease of maintenance".  I guess they design it for a lifetime of use only.

I looked at pricing heads and that was $4000 a pair.  Guess I will be pounding these out.

Hopefully the injector sleaves stay in if not you got another issue to contend with! If you can zip wheel or even torch of the studs and get the injector to turn in the bore you may get lucky! Lots of WD 40 !

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I didnt do this with mine, but i wonder if you had access to a large arbor press and blocked the head at a good angle and pushed them out...  Hell I dont know... I just know it took me hours to get mine out...  

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The worst ones ive done was pulling pencil injectors out of 2 John Deere 3179 DF heads. They were auction engines and when I got them from my customer, the pallets under them had plants and grass growing out of the pallets because they were outside for years..  I worked my a$$ off on those to get them ready for the machine shop..  

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40 minutes ago, fjh said:

Hopefully the injector sleaves stay in if not you got another issue to contend with! If you can zip wheel or even torch of the studs and get the injector to turn in the bore you may get lucky! Lots of WD 40 !

Ya, my next biggest concern is the sleeves.  I was reading in the manual about replacing the sleeves.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Those prechambers on old cat heads were just a nightmare to get out sometimes and yes the injectors on the Mack heads were more times them not a real battle. I used to mess around with the old hit and miss engines and getting a stuck piston out was always great fun. 

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Well, from what I see at this point, lots of penetrating oil and patience, oversize Crecent, wrench around the base and try to twist them a bit back-and-forth. I think that it’s gonna be our best friend at this point, especially the patients. I know that that spelled right auto spell.

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Too bad you couldnt use the injector studs to help jack the injectors out. The 673 I did, did not have enough room to get a wrench in there to do it. 

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Well, $399 plus shipping got me the rear seal installer tool from Freedom Tool.  Lickety split, the rear seal is installed.  

I installed the housing and then installed base, the "E6" spacer, and wrenched the wear ring and rear seal right down.  Only problem was the wear ring wasn't down enough so I used the "E7" spacer and it took it down .025 deeper the flywheel pilot.  Nice.

Spent some time with wire wheel to clean surface rust out of pan(hot tank makes bare metal rust if you don't get something on it).  It's ready, the gasket has been flattened out for the last few weeks, two tubes of RTV ready, bolts ready, blue lock tite ready.  Likely not get back to it until next Tuesday.  Have plans Thurs and all weekend so it has to wait.  Too late to worry about getting it all up now.

Still no luck on the injectors.  I tipped the heads up some so the blaster will get all the way around the tube as it sits in that pocket.  Tick, tock.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Good usage of the rear seal installer.  As far as quick rusting after the hot tank goes, wiping it down with a rag dampened with varsol on it will do the trick and it lasts a while if you need time. 

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