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Hand throttles in Jap trucks are like that 

My Mack uses a the same style as the stop cable, it holds any speed I push it to and within 100 rpm

And idle I think is around 600,  might be 650

I was readimg tonight that parts of the U.S. are struggling to get hay and the like done this year, the rain just want bugger off for long enough to get it done 

 

Paul

Idle is dead on then, just feels too low after the first start of the day. Feels fine when warm

Let's see other questions I have: I noticed this sticker and didn't know these were positive ground truck from the factory. Any reason why that is? I thought that went out of style in the 1950s or so, I have not even looked to see if this truck is still positive ground but I guess its something to keep in mind: image.thumb.jpeg.d9ea13c9a58349e0a174f50f929610ba.jpeg

Another problem was I lost power steering a few days back and thought the fluid was low but the hydraulic cylinder had come loose. Now I had gotten the truck suck in the field and had to be pulled out so it could have popped off then but I didn't notice or remember. I cleaned it up and tightened the clamp bolt and it hasn't happened since but it's still odd to me. Seems like it flops around more then it should so maybe it needs an adjustment or those joint replaced 

image.thumb.jpeg.23d18d4ee7cd2051f8a397fbb61f17b3.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well that's a bummer thing to wake up to: image.thumb.jpeg.f5892d44bdceb76d285bf0b292662cee.jpeg

Very glad this didn't happen during harvest and thankfully it wasn't a blowout but what sucks is this steer tire is only a couple years old. I have no idea what style of rim this is with a lock ring like that (is it tubeless?), but it looks like they either had a hard time getting it off or back on from all the marks (probably is what caused the damage to the sidewall In the first place) 
The tire shop is only a few blocks away so I'll see what they say in the morning (hope they see the big L on the stud and not cause anymore damage)

You old guys can laugh at me all you want but these old school locking rings and inner tubes are like alien technology to me!

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Local tire guys won't touch it and looking at the date code it says its from 2003 so I don't think I could get any warrantee on it.

It's a Hankook Korean tire, the PO said they had a blowout on that side a few years back and not sure what shop he brought it to. These are Budd style wheels? 

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I ran Hankook's when I ran tube types without a problem, would run 3 treads off one casing (1 original, 2 caps), but toward the end they were not made in S Korea any more and were coming out of China. I then switched brands that were coming out of Viet Nam, Sri Lanka, I avoided China produced tires, although I will admit that some good ones come out of China as well.

As to the brand CRS, and I have to go look. (Sumatro?) .

Yes Stud Pilot AKA Budd wheels, Left side studs LH right side RH on the thread.

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If I took a tyre back to a tyre shop like that I wouldn't get any warranty 

The story would be "you've bumped it on something" or "you drove something into it"

I have had a few tubed tyres do this for no apparent reason 

I have tried to claim warranty and got no were

I guess the tyre shop also has to be able to prove to their supplier that the tyre was faulty and the tyre shop knows what they can and can't get claims on

And I also guess I have to be able to prove what happened and that I didn't bump it

Tyres are cheap these days and it just isn't worth the aggravation 

And I only have 1 tyre service in town and I have been dealing with them since the beginning of time, I'm kinda loyal and they have always been there for me on shit drought years 

Still a bumber about the donut, but she's still a sweet ride 

 

Paul

  • Like 1
3 minutes ago, BOBWhite said:

Next time I go to the truck junkyard I'll ask about this

Boy, that's an odd failure on a tube type. Guess anything is possible on an older tire though. From the picture , it suggests the wheel is in better shape than most of that vintage. Still might be a problem finding someone to touch it or have much selection to chose from as a replacement tire. Tubeless will go right on there, but I wouldn't get my hopes up for finding good used ones. Budds used to like to crack and often the lugs go way too far into the seats which doesn't lead to anything good either.  At least if you bought two new ones though, you'd be done and have way more variety of 11/ 22.5s  to chose from, as well as a lot less trouble finding someone to service them.  If you're using the truck ?  go tubeless. Maybe advertise those budds and someone restoring something who's familiar with them will give you something for them and help defray the costs of the update ?

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If you are only go to use a few times a year, it doesn't pay to change wheels (required for going tubeless). I would put another tube type back on. 

22 years out of a radial is doing good. 

If you need 2 steer tires and are only using at harvest time, then I would go bias ply, they age better than radials. 

I know some may say "I'm not fit to burn" suggesting bias, but old bias do better than old radials.

Front tire change, you don't even need to pull the wheel off, as long as you can get the bead broken.

last i checked on 1000,20 tube type thier hard to find and very expensive plus shipping,,,,southern tire mart,,,listed them but when he clicked on them page said all back ordered,,,oh by the way bob,,,,your questions are never dumb,,,and yes most of us are much older,,,,50 years ago,,your tires were on about everything,,,i was working in a tire shop back then and did nothing but 1000,20 split rims,,bob

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