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Looking for 1979 Mack engine head


RS Disposal

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As far as the timing marks go,  2 cyls are adjust on each position, but not at the same time.  1&6/2&5/3&4.. but just because you pointed the pointer to 1&6, doesn't mean you are up on #1 . You could be up on #6, and if you adjust #1 then follow the firing order as you rotate the engine, your adjusts will be done 180 degrees out..  are you sure you were up on #1 when you ran the valves, also, do you have 2 pointers on the front, if so, one is for the injection pump timing...  Jojo

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36 minutes ago, RS Disposal said:

I think when it comes time to do the radiator I will take it into a local shop that does heavy truck radiators.  I don't have the expertise or tools to do the soldering of this brass radiator

I am the same, I don't bother trying to do anything myself with a radiator unless Im broken down somewhere 

Last R model radiator cost 5 grand Australian to get recored

Yeah it's a lot of coin but nothing compared to the cost of a motor 

 

Paul 

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Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

As far as the timing marks go,  2 cyls are adjust on each position, but not at the same time.  1&6/2&5/3&4.. but just because you pointed the pointer to 1&6, doesn't mean you are up on #1 . You could be up on #6, and if you adjust #1 then follow the firing order as you rotate the engine, your adjusts will be done 180 degrees out..  are you sure you were up on #1 when you ran the valves, also, do you have 2 pointers on the front, if so, one is for the injection pump timing...  Jojo

Yea, I do understand the concept of the timing of only one cylinder at a time. Before I realized there were marks on the vibration dampener I was bumping the engine over, but it was hard to know for sure if I was on true TDC because alot of the time the engine would spin backwards a bit due to compression.  There is only only one pointer on the front of my engine. The marks were extremely hard to see, but I was able to actually locate them after cleaning off the vibration dampener.  I was able to get to the approximate location of the marks by counting the number of teeth on the flywheel for a full revolution from the #1 TDC mark and dividing by 3 to give me an idea of where to look.  I was then able to get right on by slowly rotating the engine a tooth at a time untill the TDC marks were right on

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8 hours ago, JoeH said:

We paint our 3 TDC marks with a bright yellow marker and which cylinders are on TDC with each mark.  Saves a lot of headache.  

I definitely marked the TDC marks and now that I know they are there, when I need them again I will know

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I am still having this noise in the intake.  The truck seems to be running ok.  A quick question, pretty sure this turbo is producing more boost than the original.  From what I have been able to find out, the original was around 15 - 17 lbs boost. This turbo looks like it will boost upwards of around 20 lbs boost. I don't let it run that high before I back out of it.  Is there a possibility that this much boost for THIS engine might be cause some mechanical issues? I know my Cummins N14 runs around 20 lbs when going up the canyon, that that is a totally different and much larger engine.

I also think I might start a new topic with this issue where as I am no longer looking for a head.

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