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How to remove rear diff center on 46160 meritor ?


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I have not touched the other cap bolts or bearing adjuster. I have marked the bearing adjuster before i took the cap off, plan was to back it off before refitting cap and tightening back to where it was and seeing how that felt. 
 

There was blue silicone on pumpkin bolt threads and the flange so someone may have been in here.

I was thinking maybe the bolt was overtightened perhaps. 

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I love this thread!  You are exemplifying one of my core philosophies.

"Not knowing you can't do something is sometimes your greatest tool."

You remind me of how it was when I grew up.  We didn't have the internet or forums.  Hell, we were lucky if we had any type of manual to look at.  But, that never stopped us from taking things apart, figuring them out, and putting them back together.  You just have to pay attention to what is going on, make mental notes, learn from the things that didn't go exactly as planned, and keep on keepin'-on.

With your abilities, creativity, and attitude, and a little guidance from the pros on here, you'll be hauling s#!t again in no time!

Keep up the great work!

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Ive got the mack dealer chasing up to see how long it would take to get the right bolt. Or wether I could just go to bolt shop and see what they have. Its got LE12.9 stamped on bolt head. Not sure if its something special or just a usual grade 12 bolt  I think its a part number 46 x 1275 capscrew in the parts catalog for a 46 160 rear with the 3200 T1892 carrier.

I am seeing a couple feint lines on bearing thats exposed. That tells me the shell has rotated in cap acouple times. The parts diagram online i found shows a meritor glue for the shell to cap and I’m guessing whoever was in here last forgot the glue maybe.

and after I have cleaned up the broken bolt head, it’s looking like its glued to the magnet that was sitting in there that is supposed to be stuck on bung. Wtf?? Took a bit of force to get it off.

I’m trying to picture the old guy I bought it off (who didn’t look ya in the eye much while I asked him questions pre sale….)

I’m almost picturing him under there with some petrol or solvent and a syringe or can of brake cleaner working through the bung hole like a proctologist and maybe tried to glue the bolt head to the magnet  rather than taking pumpkin out to fix it, I dunno. Hahaha I kind of like the idea but at the same time I dont like the idea if you know what i mean lol.

anyway, will chase up the bolt and maybe the glue

 

Edited by The Nitro
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Are there any "gear shops" around? I wouldn't go to a truck dealer to find the parts, but may be different where you live. You want someone who builds and deals in the assembly, more than a truck dealer.  In N-A you can order over the net and get stuff fairly quick.

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Buddy,,, I have had to rebuild a handful of engine components because someone glued a bolt head to the part to make it look like it was fixed,,  I had to re-build a recently re-built engine, because someone stripped 7 sets of threads out of the block, and filled the holes with red locktite..   yeah right???  that will hold tight with 205lbft of torque on each head bolt..  anyway, been there fixed that...   ( I had a good block to replace the crappy one) ....  The truck is truck #476 at Hanes Construction in Lexington N.C..  CH-613..  It is still in service..  

Edited by Joey Mack
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Mack dealer rang back, said volvo have the capscrew in stock but not the washer and Its an overnight deal. Ordered it and 2 new axle gaskets. He asked if i wanted the hub seals too. His build sheet shows spider hubs and drum brakes for my truck but its had later model (2006) disc brakes axles fitted on rears and steer instead so no seals there  to replace.

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29 minutes ago, The Nitro said:

Mack dealer rang back, said volvo have the capscrew in stock but not the washer and Its an overnight deal. Ordered it and 2 new axle gaskets. He asked if i wanted the hub seals too. His build sheet shows spider hubs and drum brakes for my truck but its had later model (2006) disc brakes axles fitted on rears and steer instead so no seals there  to replace.

I would be slightly concerned that the whole axle has been changed out, and what they show, may not be what you have!

My last cabover had none of the original drivetrain, anybody who ordered parts off the VIN will be in a world of hurt.

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When I bought the truck the roads traffic authority told me the gvm had been upgraded in this truck. Old owner told me that 2 owners before him had been pulling 2 trailers with it up in queensland doing roadworks and they had 2 trucks the same with sleepercabs for the guys to take a kip as they sometimes had to wait hrs at night while they were doimg roads. Dont know full history but thats what i was told

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Old owner handed me a stack of receipts that he had spent on it an inch thick. Poor guy went bankrupt with the amount of $$ in receipts he spent in the few years he had it. Its a nice truck to drive, everything feels tight, gearbox steering etc for its age

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That LE 12.9 means it's a metric grade 12.9 ( pretty hard bolt ) and LE I believe is Lake Erie (?)  the manufacturer.  Those 23-160s are a very good component.  Odd that bolt broke and no sign it was loose. ( weird )  from your pictures, looks like there's definitely some life left in it. 

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12 hours ago, The Nitro said:

Im also thinking its the wrong bolt. Unless it been rattling about in there for soo long its perfectly removed all signs of edge chamfer along with number stamps IMG_4833.thumb.jpeg.fd6f34153cb1bf339965f40bb5ecea6b.jpeg

It's possible that bolt may have been replaced with a softer bolt at some time (like an 8.8).  That could explain why it broke and the others did not.

I think you're gonna be okay.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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