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Changing the oil


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Well today was the first time I have ever changed the oil on a big rig and what I thought would take an hour took all day. I didn’t have anything to take the centrifugal filter housing off with. Drove 45 minutes one way to get a strap wrench and it wasn’t big enough. Drove back and got what looks like a big set of pliers and they wouldn’t work. Waited on a friend to get off work and borrowed his 25 year old snap on strap wrench that would take 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet. Finally after some torque and 1/2 breaker bar got it off. I put it back on hand tight but those big pliers seemed they would crush or dent it? I’m thinking of trying to find a metal strap wrench that will fit filter and metal canister?

what filter wrench do you guys use?

What filters do you guys run? I bought mack since I was at dealership but don’t want to drive down just to get them. May look for Wix filters that replace them.

also didn’t see a crush washer on drain plug. Nothing but a bolt.  Should there have been one? 
 

Edited by Ricky Beals
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as a suggestion , if the filter(s) are over tight  what ever you are using for removal ;; large pliers or proper filter wrench  the closer you get to the base less chance of crushing. install without proper wrench ; i've used piece of scotch-brite or folded sandpaper   they give a little bit better grip when tightening by hand.

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All of the ones I deal with now have a bolt through them, for filters i use OFW4KT and then something like this when the others don’t cut it.

 https://www.truckid.com/k-tool-international/4-to-7-adjustable-spring-loaded-oil-filter-pliers-mpn-73621.html?view=677347&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgff6m_239gIV1f6zCh0R-wCXEAQYESABEgJNp_D_BwE

 

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heres an idea...   go to NAPA  have them pull a 1791 filter, so they can pick the correct wrench for it... i think its 4 and 1/8" -4 and 3/8" they can show you...  I suggest getting the metal strap wrench that takes a 1/2" drive ratchet..  jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
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large spin on filters i had  wide band filter wrenches set up for 1/2 in dr  ratchets .  as with EVERYTHING in the world of mechanics;;;; common sense factor plays a huge roll.  certain applications your can't get the leverage needed to hand tighten.  using a HD band filter wrench helps,. as earlier stated getting the wrench right close to base(threaded end) , NOT to put 500 lbs torque, tight enough not to loosen and leak. the large strap wrenches have a tendency to bend the filter.  through the yrs my paycheck went for tools and toys. if a tool was made i had it, 

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the strap wrenches I have are 3+inches wide and they dont crush the filter like the 1" wide wrenches..  K-D tools makes the ones I have..  NAPA sells them   jojo

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I guess I should have been clearer... Im not talking about the ones that look like a belt... mine are steel,,,  jojo

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i had a 3/8 round  bar that had one end pointed like a spear.  couple different lengths. drain pail under filter would punch a hole in filter bottom. results a clean controled drain of the filter. a filter that just wouldn't remove i;ve pierced a large screw driver  through the side ( another reason for drain hole in bottom) for removal leverage. there have been a few that " who the h-LL tighten this " . no  reason that tight. 

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2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I guess I should have been clearer... Im not talking about the ones that look like a belt... mine are steel,,,  jojo

never had much luck with the belt wrenches . had both. belts seem to slip more . your text was perfectly clear .didn't know they were that wide. 

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20 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

heres an idea...   go to NAPA  have them pull a 1791 filter, so they can pick the correct wrench for it... i think its 4 and 1/8" -4 and 3/8" they can show you...  I suggest getting the metal strap wrench that takes a 1/2" drive ratchet..  jojo

don't forget your VIN number !!!😄😁 LOL

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The filter wrench I use is the K-D 2320 , ive had it for about 34 years and is used almost daily, I believe the model number has changed to a newer number and have seen them on Amazon.  On the side it says  “ Fits 4 1/8” to 4 21/32” filters”.  The band on mine is only 1 1/2” wide . The newer ones are around 2” wide and can cause clearance issues on some trucks 

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67RModel that’s sound advice. My RD686 does not have a coolant filter that I can find.


Mackpro I ordered a belt wrench this morning that was used for those specs. 
 

one more question guys. I’m changing the fuel filters and was wondering if I need to fill them with something? Some say Lucas fuel injector cleaner, some say diesel and some say mystery oil. I have never changed a fuel filter on a truck. A little knowledge here would help. Like what do you guys add or not add. I’m trying to start out on the right foot and I’m a big believer in maintenance. Got her all greased up, oil changed and now going change fuel filters.

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You can't go wrong prefilling them with diesel. It will help with reprimming the fuel system or from it loosing prime altogether. I cant imagine filling them with any of the other two fluids you mention as they would super concentrated going through the fuel system. I thought injector cleaner was to be diluted by dumping into the fuel tank. The mystery oil claim probably comes from guys wanting to add lubricity to their fuel since these new low sulfur fuels have very little lubricating properties compared to the fuel from decades past. Long story short just fill the filters with diesel fuel in my opinion. If you want to add an additive to lubricate/clean the fuel system then add it to the tank each time you fill up. I add a quart of non detergent SAE30 engine oil or conventional 2 stroke pre mix oil to my 94RD E7 about every 75-100 gallons of fuel I put in. The older trucks engines and fuel systems were designed around the old fuel blend that had much more lubrication properties than the new "less polluting" stuff they make now. 

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If you prefill do it through the little holes not the big one in the center. 

Edited by Onyx610
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a big importance with prefilling is the method used. have seen filters filled with the hose/nozzle from fleet fuel truck or storage tank etc-- definite NO NO. more dirt , sh-t falls in. prefill with a clean fuel only container. 

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We always pre-filled the fuel filters on our old trucks with CLEAN diesel.  I think clean is important!

On my 6.7L Cummins, I do NOT pre-fill the fuel filters.  That is because the book says not to.  I think they are concerned about getting dirty fuel in them past the element (I think that is what Onyx is referencing).  I do pre-fill the oil filter, because the book says to do so.

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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oil filters --always.  truck, car , john deere . even the wife's subaru  has the upside down spin on; fill much as possible =finger over center hole and flip fast to thread on. no mess either. 

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I think the key with pre-filling ANY filter is cleanliness.  You want to be darned sure not to get any dirt, trash, or little slivers of the aluminum foil off the oil jugs in there.  As long as the fluid is clean, I don't see an issue.

I think the reason they say not to pre-fill the filters on that Cummins is how sensitive those new fuel systems are to contamination.  Plus, it's not a big deal to purge them anyway.  "When in doubt, read the instructions."

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Plus they have an electric fuel pump that fills them anyway with a few cycles of the key 

Edited by Onyx610
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