wilbur 12 Posted November 13, 2018 I have a 2000 ch with a Eaton axle E-1200I. They make so many kits which is the best.? I was told by a few people to get the bushings you have to ream. Looking online all i can find is no ream. Any suggestions.? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kscarbel2 3,611 Posted November 13, 2018 Contact your axle's manufacturer. Call customer support at 1-800-826-HELP (4357) and ask them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fjh 443 Posted November 13, 2018 Check into these quick and easy to use and decently reliable! http://stemco.com/product/qwikkit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davehummell 163 Posted November 13, 2018 FJH I think they were the kind I used back in the day on the rs and f models when I worked at a all mack fleet garage. they were pretty slick for getting the truck back on the road. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fjh 443 Posted November 14, 2018 6 hours ago, davehummell said: FJH I think they were the kind I used back in the day on the rs and f models when I worked at a all mack fleet garage. they were pretty slick for getting the truck back on the road. Yup cuts the time in half and they work well! I like some of the stemco stuff BUT not all ! won't install or recommend a stemco 2 piece seal any more unless I am forced into it , how ever the voyager stuff is decent ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terry 316 Posted November 14, 2018 9 hours ago, fjh said: Check into these quick and easy to use and decently reliable! http://stemco.com/product/qwikkit Just wondering what makes these so much quicker to install? terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mack Technician 715 Posted November 14, 2018 11 hours ago, wilbur said: I have a 2000 ch with a Eaton axle E-1200I. They make so many kits which is the best.? I was told by a few people to get the bushings you have to ream. Looking online all i can find is no ream. Any suggestions.? Not sure why reaming was accepted procedure. Most often it was caused by people erupting the bushing by hammering in instead of pressing in gently. Even if you erupt.....put the pin completly in and slap it with a deadblow sideways, all directions, and the bushing will distort back to pin shape and pin will turn free. Don’t cut metal out of a new, soft metal, or nylon dressed, bushing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fjh 443 Posted November 14, 2018 14 hours ago, terry said: Just wondering what makes these so much quicker to install? terry They simply spiral in! no hammering or beating no reaming The only hammering involved is getting the old stuff out! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davehummell 163 Posted November 14, 2018 A few years back I did a 18000 lbs axel and in the kit was those bushes with nylon coating I had to use the reamer setup from the dealer I bought trucks and parts from. you can't hone the nylon like the brass lined ones I didn't have a reamer large enough and I wasn't going to screwaround and set it up on my bridge port to bore them out. I didn't care for that setup but the bushes held up. Now I think back getting them pins out on the front axels were a real pain in the butt I never had a pin press at the different shops I worked for. Back in the early 70's I worked for Cleveland brothers and we had to pound out the track master pins fun times. Now they have a pin press for the job Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wilbur 12 Posted November 17, 2018 I called eaton, which is now dana spicer and they said to go with 328342. This is a pre-fit bronze bushing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
