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Cylinder Liner Removal


whitecc250

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My son and I are working on an "In-Frame" overhaul of a Mack 285 6 cyl. All was well until we came upon a stubborn liner that has refused to give up it's place in the engine block. We have a homemade liner remover that worked well for all the other cylinders, but will not budge the last one remaining. We even tried to force the liner out with a floor jack assist from the bottom. No go! Any ideas or home remedies to remove the "stubborn" liner? Thanks in advance.

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Tried the ice pack to help remove cylinder liner. Let it set overnight with a puller still on it. Still would not budge. Wound up contacting the local Mack mechanic. He suggested the ice pack method at first, also. But on very stubborn liners, he said that they have had to use the welding rod method to persuade the liner to move. It worked great, the liner was removed and we are now in the process of putting it back together.

I am a new member to the site and look forward to all the news, ideas, and comments concerning Mack trucks and other diesel rigs. Thanks again!!

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Bigger problems require stronger measures!! LOL Didn't know what equipment you had available and some people would have run and hid if I had mentioned doing that! Bottom line what ever works. Good deal.

John Evans,

Trucks & Dogs are expensive!!

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  • 5 weeks later...

run yoaur wled bead around th inside of the liner one or two will do.. top and bottom,, in 96 when i wassss cominag back form drywall constraucktion pllant in ky,, burned rear aaxle bearing , could not get the inner race out,,, swelled beat into housing, i rented welder time from ag,truck shop welder across the streeet from where i was stopped,, he said, i never heard of such a silly thing,, welded insided the race,, he said , ok professer,,, aint u gonna take it out now,,, nope,, wait till it cooled,, took it out on screwdriver tip, he asked for the race to hang in his shop to remind him and didnt charge me for the lincolntime, siad i added to his revcenue, was gonna do that himself,, buck

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  • 2 years later...

Wrap the journal of the crank with wet rags, then wrap the rags with several layers of aluminum foil before welding on the sleeve.

When the sleeve is out, remove the rags and wipe any moisture off the crank.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Wrap the journal of the crank with wet rags, then wrap the rags with several layers of aluminum foil before welding on the sleeve.

When the sleeve is out, remove the rags and wipe any moisture off the crank.

When welding a bead around the liner dont forget to put the ground clamp on the block becuase i have seen a deal done where the man grounded to the frame and now you can burn up other things and if if has a ECM then it should be unhooked.

glenn akers

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When welding a bead around the liner dont forget to put the ground clamp on the block becuase i have seen a deal done where the man grounded to the frame and now you can burn up other things and if if has a ECM then it should be unhooked.

Yes, definitely!

The following story has nothing to do with sleeve removal, but points out that the ground should always be as close as possible to the weld area.

A company up the road from here found out the hard way about proper ground clamp placement when welding.

Evidently somebody put the ground clamp in a place where it allowed current to flow thru the main bearings. This caused burning and pitting of the bearings and when they started the truck, several of the main bearings spun.

Talk about expensive f--- ups!

Sure glad it wasn't mine!!!!!!

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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When welding a bead around the liner dont forget to put the ground clamp on the block becuase i have seen a deal done where the man grounded to the frame and now you can burn up other things and if if has a ECM then it should be unhooked.

Anything that has an ECM should also have the battery(s) disconnected also.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Yes, definitely!

The following story has nothing to do with sleeve removal, but points out that the ground should always be as close as possible to the weld area.

A company up the road from here found out the hard way about proper ground clamp placement when welding.

Evidently somebody put the ground clamp in a place where it allowed current to flow thru the main bearings. This caused burning and pitting of the bearings and when they started the truck, several of the main bearings spun.

Talk about expensive f--- ups!

Sure glad it wasn't mine!!!!!!

I have seen that same thing happen more than once.

glenn akers

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  • 8 years later...

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