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Can anyone help me with a motor swap problem? I just today test drove my rd 600 with a em7 mechanical motor that replaced my e6. It seems that the throttle linkage is moving fully forward on the pump but revs seem limited. On the motor plate it is rated 300 hp at 1750 rpm. Would it be governed at 1750 rpm ? And how can it be increased if that is true? Thanks All . Ray

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is it a "low rpm engine" ? there were some mack engines that were set up to turn lower RPMS. I want to say 1800 or 1900 RPM was the max rpm that you could pushwith those engines. not shure if some of the E7s were one of them?

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Can anyone help me with a motor swap problem? I just today test drove my rd 600 with a em7 mechanical motor that replaced my e6. It seems that the throttle linkage is moving fully forward on the pump but revs seem limited. On the motor plate it is rated 300 hp at 1750 rpm. Would it be governed at 1750 rpm ? And how can it be increased if that is true? Thanks All . Ray

I turned the RPM up on an 88 E6 4VH with a robert bosch pump, there is a plug on the back side of the pump under the exaust manifold you need a long straight screwdriver and a flashlight and another helper to turn the engine over at the front while you watch, take the plug out turn the engine over until you will see a sloted head there will be two half way around, push the slot down and turn clockwise 3-4 turns, you need to make sure you turn both of them the same amount of turns, put the plug back in check the RPM, the one i did i turned up to 2200-2300 to get the full RPM with a 6 speed, if you do it let me know how you progressed. Ron

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You could also just turn in the high idle stop screw on the side of the governor housing where the throttle shaft comes out of the governor. That would raise your RPMs.

While you're at it, take off that cover at the back of the aneroid diaphragm and crank that screw in all the way. Then you'll get full fuel as soon as you hit the pedal, without waiting for the turbo to build up some boost pressure first. (You'll also get a cloud of black smoke initially, untill the turbo starts pushing enough air for a clean burn)

I had a couple of those EM7 300's around here, and without the "treatment" they were gutless.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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My understanding of a EM7 is that is has a higher torque band at lower rpm. suposssed to work well with big gaps in gear ratios and off road. Not sure if the pump is a bosche, will look today. I have 5;50 gears for atree spade truck. Ray

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You could also just turn in the high idle stop screw on the side of the governor housing where the throttle shaft comes out of the governor. That would raise your RPMs.

While you're at it, take off that cover at the back of the aneroid diaphragm and crank that screw in all the way. Then you'll get full fuel as soon as you hit the pedal, without waiting for the turbo to build up some boost pressure first. (You'll also get a cloud of black smoke initially, untill the turbo starts pushing enough air for a clean burn)

I had a couple of those EM7 300's around here, and without the "treatment" they were gutless.

That EM6 that i turned up had the 6 speed air shift dont know the number but it had 5.55 rears it was gutless the old 285hp with 3.87 gears would run off and leave it, Herb is that show up in Richland Center Wisconsin a good show, in the WOT it looks like alot of trucks. Thanks Ron

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Herb is that show up in Richland Center Wisconsin a good show, in the WOT it looks like alot of trucks. Thanks Ron

Ron, I must admit I've never been to that show.

Up until recently I was working so much I never had time to do that kind of thing.

Now that I've sold the business and I'm working a 5 day week as a company employee things may be different.

Wish I could answer your question, but maybe I'll get out there this year & check it out.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Raybing,

I've got several of those low rpm motors in both MR's and one DM every truck was low rpm some were em6's and some were em7's all robert bosch pumps, (I've put e6 pumps on e-7s and vice versa..) I could never get the plug off the back side of the pump, while on the truck, like b61mack said, but he is totally correct... if you pull the aneroid cover off the top and pull the torque plate off you can get to it from the top of the pump. otherwise pull the pump off and have it done in a diesel shop.

pay attention to the location of the torque plate.... it is adjust able, sliding it towards the the front of the motor will increase overall HP, but also so will raising the RPM, I've gone as far as changing the slope on the torque plate with good results... I could ramble on all night... here is a link to a web site that explains it on a a dodge truck (virtually the same pump) http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/show...5523#post165523

If this doesn't help I've got a couple of these pumps in my shop I could take pictures of them for you.

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Wile on topic whats the highest RPM for a E6 or E7 . Not talking factory specs, but what hotrodders or tractors pullers would let them spin to. Is the RPM limited to valve train restrictions or rotaitional mass of the crank and pistons? reason I ask is it sounds like the detroit diesel pulleing crowd winds there engines up pretty high.

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Can anyone help me with a motor swap problem? I just today test drove my rd 600 with a em7 mechanical motor that replaced my e6. It seems that the throttle linkage is moving fully forward on the pump but revs seem limited. On the motor plate it is rated 300 hp at 1750 rpm. Would it be governed at 1750 rpm ? And how can it be increased if that is true? Thanks All . Ray

I would never set the fuel up on that engine if it is a truck to work ever day but if you are playing with it and it is yours that would be ok.The top rpm is not 1750 but that is were it is at at peak torqe and that is were the governor starts to cut back. You need to check full throdle and make sure you are pushing the lever all the way and you do that by not starting the engine and get some one to mash the pedal down and you go around and see if you can move the lever any more and if you cant then you are geting full throdle but there is all lot of things to check before you start to turn screws. hope this helps glenn

glenn akers

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  • 1 year later...
Raybing,

I've got several of those low rpm motors in both MR's and one DM every truck was low rpm some were em6's and some were em7's all robert bosch pumps, (I've put e6 pumps on e-7s and vice versa..) I could never get the plug off the back side of the pump, while on the truck, like b61mack said, but he is totally correct... if you pull the aneroid cover off the top and pull the torque plate off you can get to it from the top of the pump. otherwise pull the pump off and have it done in a diesel shop.

pay attention to the location of the torque plate.... it is adjust able, sliding it towards the the front of the motor will increase overall HP, but also so will raising the RPM, I've gone as far as changing the slope on the torque plate with good results... I could ramble on all night... here is a link to a web site that explains it on a a dodge truck (virtually the same pump) http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/show...5523#post165523

If this doesn't help I've got a couple of these pumps in my shop I could take pictures of them for you.

I have an E6 motor with an E7 bosch pump. I am not sure if it is an american or a robert. I have been playing with it a little bit. There is a cover on the back that had a seal on it. Inside is two screws with locking nuts. One has 8 mm nut, the other has 10mm nut. Can anyone tell me what these are and what they do. I turned the 10mm screw in about 3 turns and it made it more responsive. Am i messing up or what?

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I have an E6 motor with an E7 bosch pump. I am not sure if it is an american or a robert. I have been playing with it a little bit. There is a cover on the back that had a seal on it. Inside is two screws with locking nuts. One has 8 mm nut, the other has 10mm nut. Can anyone tell me what these are and what they do. I turned the 10mm screw in about 3 turns and it made it more responsive. Am i messing up or what?

Your messing with the smoke control if you don't mind the smoke , you won't hurt it with that!

1 turn would have done the job!

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Your messing with the smoke control if you don't mind the smoke , you won't hurt it with that!

1 turn would have done the job!

Is that the pre boost adjustment? And do you know what the other screw is? This is the first pump that i have messed with. I turned the gov up a little. It has always smoked like a freight train anyway. It is just real sluggish on the low end.

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Wile on topic whats the highest RPM for a E6 or E7 . Not talking factory specs, but what hotrodders or tractors pullers would let them spin to. Is the RPM limited to valve train restrictions or rotaitional mass of the crank and pistons? reason I ask is it sounds like the detroit diesel pulleing crowd winds there engines up pretty high.

From everything that i have heard, 2100 rpm is safe. 2200 to 2300 rpm may not hurt anything. A friend of mine told me that you can get them wound tight around 2375 rpm. I am not an expert by any means, But the truck i drive has a 1989 E6 and turns 2100rpm. Another driver turned his up to about 2250 rpm. He has a 1991, E7. He has been running at that rpm for over two years running about 3500 miles a week with no problems so far. I hope that this helps.

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