BrianDzimitrowiczJr

We have a chip bank of Spies Hecker at the shop and it does give great matches. I think we are one of the only shops that use it (we only use it on new/very late model vehicles) because the closest support for it is 70 miles away. Concept did change but is still a great paint. The transtar "euro" clear was the only thing i ever used and i used it with spot/panel harder and in my opinion the only thing that hardner would be good for would be motorcycle parts because it's so fast. In my opinion transtar's highend isn't as good of a product as ppgs's low end (omni). it's too fast to do a small car hood for my liking but everbody is different. the Sikkens you talk of i've never heard of and i don't think it's available around my neck of the woods at all. but as far as tape i can't stand any of the 3m. the old vanilla tape was good tape. the new vanilla, green, yellow, blue, etc. i haven't found one i like. i don't care for many 3M products anymore. for tape i use ProGrip. it's cheaper, holds better, and clear won't make it curl up like it does to 3m. plus the 3M tears hard for my liking

why are all the beauties so far away. I think i'd get in trouble if i had a lowboy though, i'd want to bring them all home

I'm not a huge PPG fan myself. But I'm definitely not crazy over any Transtar products either. I think there DBC,DBU, and Global basecoats belong in the garbage. however i do like the omni line as well as the shopline and valupro lines ppg offers. I think PPG has a decent clear coat. however if i was to choose i would use BASF's Limco line or there Glasurit line. Some of the best products on the market and with metallics they boast how it's very difficult to get it to blotch and stripe. But as far as these old Mack's are concerned i think PPG's Concept (high end), Omni MTK Acrylic Urethane, or Limco single stage are great products to use. I think these rust converters make a bigger mess

your correct. now it's dplf. they removed the lead and now it dries much quicker

your best bet would be for me to give you my address and have you ship it up to me. i'll gladly take it off your hands. but if you do wanna use self tapping screws use somethings about 3/8" shank to give it some meat and pre drill

check around and see if you can get a universal cut to fit gasket or possibly talk to watts to see if they have anything or another route is get a hold of the manufactuar and see if you can send them your old one for a template. btw thanks for the horse collar and shutters. Brian

I have used all sorts of rust converters through the years from many reputable companies and in my honest opinion i think everyone of them is a bunch of witch craft hobbledy hoop bull shit. I think the best thing to do is to sandblast to bare steel and use a good primer. PPG makes a primer called DP 40 that seems to hold up the best out of any primer i've ever used. any rust work that we ever get in the shop we always use it and it seems to work the best. Just my 2 cents

take it and grind it out. sheetmetal is great for reinforcing fiberglass parts, wood works great too. then use fiberglass resin and fiberglass matt and make your repair. do it in layers. more layers = more strength.

b43 is a diesel. It should have a detuned 673 in it. idk why they detuned them, a 673 didn't have enough ass to begin with lol. Odd number trucks are diesel and even numbered trucks are gas jobs

i knew i shoulda went. looks like it was a good show. i'm pretty sure that B75 was in Springfield too. it was parked two rows over from you. Had a youngster wiping it down

sheet metal looks decent on it in the pics. if i was to guess i'd say the rearend is probably in the high 6:00-7:00 range. probably good for 50 bouncing off the govorner. it has an EN401 flat head with what a 67 series duplex trans. either 9 or 10 speed. as for getting it running if it isn't stuck i'd poor a little gas in the carb, clean the points, run it off a remote tank (i've seen a 5 gallon gas can power many of trucks) and give it a crank. more than likely it's still positive ground. and i agree with yarnall, i'd try getting it for 2500 and i really wouldn't want to pay much more than that for it

hell in that case i'll bet ya (10) B-42's coulda done that at a whopping road speed of 10 miles an hour haha. the ad is good for Mack i think but the fact is, it's not mack powered.

my grandfather told me that in order to prepare yourself to drive a detroit you had to get into a fight with your better half in the morning then slam your hand in the door of the truck right before you get in. this way you were ready to listen to that mechanical asshole all day because you were already in a bad mood hahah

a U model and Vinny didn't hear about it yet?! there'll be hell to pay haha

when i changed my filters it did get hard to pump. and yes your right it is about 2/3 of the way back on the pump.

fill the filter full of fuel then spin it on. if it's an inline injector pump the plunger will be on the rear of the pump (towards the firewall). pump up the plunger until you feal resistance. start it up and let it idle. let it run for a few minutes. if there is any air in the system it'll work it's way out.

I know on the other side of the fairgrounds there was a B613LT single axle tractor solid Mack green. i'm kicking myself for not getting pictures of it. original turbo charged 673 with around 80,000 miles on the clock. it looks like a virgin. sheet metal was painted once a while ago. inside the cab was all original paint in nice shape plus a bostrom air bag seat. i think it had a 10 speed duplex in it. what a sweet heart. I'd love to park that in my driveway. any info on it????

i agree with Superdog 100%. I remember Tidewater Mack selling them 15 years ago for a 10th of that price

if you've ever watched the movie "goodfellas" there's a beat to hell red b model in it. The truck pulls into the diner, driver gets out. Joe Pesci and Ray Liotta hijack the truck. also in "police acadamy" there's a B model in it. can't recall exactly where