Vladislav

Wasn't that a porch ashtray?

Yes, they also differ by the look of their face. Some ebay sellers point out the size is small but many don't. Also I noted multiple styles of rough newly(?) made bulldog mascots which look poor when up close. Many even have their rear legs cast together. So process of buying requres care and attention to the details. So far the only "wrong" dog I purchased was my very first attempt when I ordered a brand new one. Everything was fine with it excepting new patent#. Just not a correct style for the vintage my R-model relates to. Put it on a shelf.

I would. But the matter of the issue is you must be a US resident (Ok, citizen) to vote for the US president..

I checked this thread to figure out who Biden is since local media tell he wins pre-election popularity. The actual reading made me damn laugh and I even stopped myself on putting likes on some of the posts just feeling that all is not my business. At least I don't have dogs in the fight. Wish you to have that man as a president who more cares about people who produce than who consume.

Nice looking Superdog, good luck bringing it back to live. The fasteners in the floor panels were used of two kinds. Those you bought attaches over the floor opening to fit the removable section of the floor (your pedal bases attached onto). The bases themself could be fitted to the same clips (and maybe they are if I'm wrong) but what my memory tells there's different style of nut inserts. Also a square nut but "wrapped" by steel with two shoulders you put into the square hole in the floor panel. I think they're called nutserts or insert nuts but not sure (sorry, English is not my native language). Also I think I saw them on restorationspecialities.com offered in different sizes. Actually I also need to order them but haven't determined the size. My old nuts are laying on a table in the shop but I haven't got to them so far. Vlad

We did that kind of shaking. Hanged a tank on a pair of cargo straps, poured 10 liter of diesel in it and addad half a bin of gravel. Than shooked back-forth by hands. I had two young guys hired at the time and they did gym with the tank for 3-5 minutes a time changing each other. After 3 or 4 attemts they went to do something different and came back in an hour or so. Took them a couple of days for one tank (we made two) to get off rough rust but way not as after sandblasting. Of what I later read on here some folks attached a tank to portable cement mixer or a rear wheel of agricultural tractor and rest spinning for a few hours. Telling truth these ways seem to me more preferrable than shaking. Another possible alternative is cutting one bottom or a hole in the back side and sandblast through it.

As said above.

Looks like a common later series R-model cab to me. What's wrong with the existing one? From the pics it looks like a couple of spray cans could do the fix.

Drool to see My only worry isn't the paint still soft to put attachments on? I prefere to wait at least a couple of weeks and better a couple of month (and a damn couple of years in many cases) besore to start bolting on. Difficult to resist playing the game and I try to find alternative tasks along the project.

I like the color of the floor Sure kidding. Congrats! Nothing cheers up that much as bright shine of freshly done paint

I suppose the parts off a B-model firetruck engine (707?) would work there.

I really like that green screamer with #38 on the doors. Wonder is that 3-71 or a whole lot of 4 in the engine room? B73 is really nice either. Thanks for taking time to share the pics.

Worth attention. 1970 - 25 years after WW2 ?

PAI supplys the most of gaskets for E6 2V and those are similar to END673 in many cases excepting the head gaskets which utilize steel fire rings. 673 water pump also crosses to many (or the most) later Mack pumps differing in possible locations of small fittings. I suppose the original END673 pump had graphite seal ring but later desings have modern rubber shaft seal. The latter is also avalible from PAI and other suppliers so you could find a used E6 water pump assembly and rebuild it using such seal and greasing the bearings. That's what I'm going to do with my R-model E6-350 pump.

Cool! Nice to see it's done.

The project is moving step by step. Unfortunately not really fast due to many other affairs which took attention. Currently all the soft skin parts are ready, 80% of the chassis parts are sandblasted/painted and ready to assemble, plenty of new parts bought, imported and are laying on shelves. Including brake chambers, airbags, different bushings, windshields, all the chrome trim including front bumper etc. Next big step is rebuilding the engine I already have the most new parts for either. After it's done the most extensive and "sleaky" job is expected - I will need to part out my running truck (yes, I have two SGT R's and one of them is still solid). The matter is I'm going to use a set of frame rails off it since found no other options. So plan is to prepaire as many parts off the donor truck as possible while the other is still running. Than part it out, work out the set of rails and start putting everything together while the iron is hot. No lees than a couple more years to tinker anyway.

Keep the flame alive Paul! And I think (and hope) it's impossible to get rid of youreslf.

I just tried my best to proof the reputation the site puts above a member's avatar

But really strange to see the spring. My truck has a wire which goes to the dash with a knob on. The same as the rack control setup. Hmm... That small "lee" at the left of the pic too looks like a clamp which was supposed to attach the wire sleeve in the past.

That's an emergency fuel shut-off valve. My WW2 Mack has it as stock equipement described in the factory manual and the parts book.

Nice to see! And being gloss black the cab already looks fine. A layer of a clear coat and a big save on the red paint?

Welcome to the forum! R688 with aluminium frame?

Definitely looks like a great time and a great show! Very glad for those guys who could visit or participate. And those who couldn't now can see it on the pictures. Thanks for taking the time and sharing so many of. Special thanks for W71 and 4WD MH.

If the truck is 55 or earlier it gives me idea on the chassis number location. In 53 it was stamped at the rear end of the chassis rail not at the front.

Yup, as said above. Could also be a timing gears issue, oil pump or any other part which is supposed to spin or move when you turn the crank shaft. And you won't be happy to get broken. Actually a END inline 6 is faster to get apart than figuring out on removing a part or another or just picturing the matter in mind. I mean inframe job, the heads and the pan.