Vladislav

Hope they will work for you.

I kept my eye on them for a long while. But my actual need was just the rubber bushings since my metal parts were Ok. And with current headaches to ship to my place I figured I'd live without 'em.

Thanks the great Gentlemen!

Now I just need a bit of time to read the text in those manuals to be completely prepped for biting the bullet. Illustrations may work faster though. Hope to have the thing apart the other day.

Relating to the manuals my wheel looks as a kind of FW2000 but with two jaws and "C-pinion" at the cab side. Probably some modification or maybe a differently named model. But I hope general design is the same for many models. There may be an issue identifying replacement parts though but I use to double check suiteness by fitting sizes etc. 

I will post the results as soon as I have all the pieces blown separately. Even if I get being one legged by the plate fallen onto my foot  

I was going to give a better life to a fifth wheel for my R-model. Such as revision of worn parts, sandblast, paint etc. Finally found a bit of time (and a guy who was eager to play the game), so pulled it off the weeds and pretty soon found myself  scratching my head. I sure understand everything could be taken apart over it but with presence of high stressed springs and very function of the jugs to lock something I felt worry to hit a hammer here and there. 

So there's quite easy (to my understanding) question: where to start the work from, which way to continue and what to avoid? 

Also I'd like to know the particular model of this wheel. Tried to identify by Google search but haven't had much luck soon enough. 

Thanks in advance. 

Check out this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254447800537

Worth to request a couple of measurements from the seller such as the stud and the rod thread sizes. Overall it looks very close to what you're looking for.

Pretty interesting subject to discuss, thanks for lifting it up.

Honestly I don't remember hearing about those crytical speeds in the past but the effect sure makes sence. My guess older day's engeneers were familiar with that. Otherwise they wouldn't design shafts with intermediate carrier at all. Probably the road speeds were less in those days, especially for trucks.

Vlad

Yes, she's pretty interesting. And making mooth water.

Tom, do you need any donation to cover the expences on the car's battery to drive to Gladis to pic up the computer to take the show pics from your camera to post on here?

Ohh, sorry. Right at the mement I'm the man who's splitted from making international money transfers.

Cool!

She's looking nice on the road!

Very nicely done!

Honestly it's difficult to comment an item I well know I wouldn't do better than it already is.

Yup! Looks like you had a nice time at the show judging by the pics. Coming home after a pleasant event adds powers to fight rutine affairs.

5 hours ago, Red Horse said:

66dc75 on left, OD on right and in the middle??? 

I belive he's one guy who recently claimed he has never heard of Macungie show...

Ok, he used to have a firetruck with Waukesha engine.

Ok, and say Hello to Zina!

2 hours ago, other dog said:

The Draggin' Wagon, formerly known as fuzzy buzzard.

As DCW said above! 

And thanks for pointing the relationship between these two nicknames!

And thanks for the cool truck pictures!!!

I have seen it as a printed poster hanging on a wall at one's Mack enthusiast place. Unfortunately I'm currently not able to go there check in.

1 hour ago, other dog said:

That Malo mixer on DMM chassis must be driven from Quebec if I'm not lost in geography. Pretty sure it belongs (belonged?) to a fleet of one of our fellow members. Any info on the Superdogs behind it?

That place near the driveway to Macungie factory makes me wonder. The trucks parked there get newer every few years. Never saw anything like that in different places. If you buy a rig and have it in your yard it keeps being the same style and just getting older!

Just now, mrsmackpaul said:

Im stunned that a heavy duty truck had a chassis that had the front half bolt to the back half from the factory, it must of worked okay 

I only learnt in recent times that Kenworths in Australia are like this as well, at least the older W model and SAR's are like this, maybe the front 18 inches bolts on

Paul

Me either. To my understanding truck chassis must be the most sturdy element in a rig and making it of multiple sections seems as engeneering... Ok, a compromize). I know in many countries any split connection of frame reals within the wheelbase is illegal. But here we talk about that made by respectable companies and the design seems working well. Strange world! 

The one on the pic is off a Granite or CL. Original RW one has ends with taper at the bottom. 

This picture was posted by someone on here a long while back. The rear portion is steel not alu in this case but you can clearly see the split.

I belive EVERY 1st gen. Superliner had steel front section bolted to a pair of straight rails. The latter could be either steel or alu.

The same for WS Cruiserliner.