Vladislav

I also have 1988 R with 2 squares at the moment but they are terrible aftermarket and I'd like to change tham as soon as warm time comes.

My mother has not to be warried.

I was born here

Bad is I want to start remove a cab and an engine from my spare truck.

It locates now in non-heating shed. -20 C is not comfortable to work and I have counceled to wait a week to be normal -10.

Last winter I came in eastern Poland and stayed owernight in a hotel. Next morning I noted -22 and had a problem with Belorussian diesel fuel. The car didn't run more than 60 km/h until Poland fuel comed into the tank hard mixed with USA-produced anti-gel

Yes, I have gone to the garage.

The wheel has both key hole and splines.

But the steering column has SPLINES only, no key.

Wanted a steering wheel for 1945 NR model, looks similar to an L.

Light green, beige, brown, gray or black in good condition.

I have two but both are terrible.

Looking also for 2 headlights (bodies) with parking lights top-mounted.

Top lens inclusive, without hard rust. Main lens and reflector are not the matter of question.

Ready to buy

I see you have good skill in striping models.

All the written is correct of course.

I can note only that metallics are better-cowers and it means you can apply less thickness of a film. That helps to reduse the step. I prefer (prefered - I was not in a modelling during 10 years and slowly coming back again) - prefer not to use ready paints but mix them from clear lack and metallic base. I used to add Humbrol/Rewell chrom coat into a clear coat of kind I like. Last times - water based Tamiya with spirit as solwent. Little pieced metallic looks realistic in scale and cowers back color efficiently. You can also apply metallic into the non-metallic color, for example in white. It doesn't change color hard but improwes cowerity. I'm shure you know Dutch F-model Mack painted as American flag - stars with stripes. I saw this truck real in Holland this authumn and it always painted in metallic - blue, red and white.

How do you do during the winter?

I have -20 outside.

Vlad

Hello Ryan,

What ready parts do you use for?

Italery Superliner yellow cab has seen, but what the steering wheel/column and other gray parts are from?

I'm not understood did you make correction of false-formed rear wall of the Ital's cab? It is too wide near the bottom.

Are Australian air filters from English man or some lockal producent?

Too interesting to have the kit in the future, especially of good quality.

Stud lock wheel (Alcoa 983100) has:

Hub bore 8,73'' = 221.74 mm

Bolt hole 1.219'' = 30.96 mm

Hub piloted (Alcoa 983600):

Hub bore 220.1 mm

Bolt hole 26.75

We can see both bores are less on hub type and I would have no problem to up them to the size.

Machining of the central hole required big equipement of course but I see no reason to keep the size of it hard. It doesn't pilot a wheel and no matter what id is. If anable to fit the wheel on a hub I think I don't have to work it ower.

Vlad

Really thanks for my "CAN NOT" !

I have my problem always clear now and it is good.

Although I think still I can try to machine areas around stud holes to form slopes.

Anyway I'll be too carefull now about all sizes and will off this way in any chance as find the originals.

To Shortstack:

I don't want to change something in the hubs and chassis although there is a problem to find correct wheels owerhere.

I bought some from Pet or Ken, don't know, they are of hub-piloting type. I understood you that stud, nut and "extra nut" on my axles means I have stud-piloting truck, but I'm not shure I can put hub-typers on my hubs because of a bit less size of central hole. If I can, I'll be glad to use them as inner wheels at rear, and continue a search of originals to keep correct exterior. I have big mechanical experience but over cars, not trucks. That's why I'm asking about relatively easy things.

Does your CH have hub piloting?

To PanteraPilot:

My English is really terrible as people in Russia usually have.

There is a lot of reasons for that including too little practic with mostly non-original English-spoken people.

I never been in America still and glad to know about your trips overseas.

If you visiting Russia often I'm ready to meet you for a coffee, any help from me is also avalible if required.

To Pawel:

Greetings to Poland, Pavel!

Yes, 10-15 years ago Internationals were big in number. Freightliners got this status now, here are lots of. But you can meet them inside the country, between Moscow-S.Peterburg and far away to the east. West direction is not popular to use long-nouse trucks because of no way for them to Europe.

What the city are you from?

Ah, sorry, I see - Poznan.

Newer been but drove the motorway near your location at least 6 times in the last year.

Krakow has visited by me just in Nowember, I looked Warsaw, Wroclaw, Sandomierz and many other little cities.

I saw Mack DM dump truck for sell in Poland last Autumn, somethere near Biala Podlaska - Minsk Mazoviecky. But didn't see, it was on Mobile.de.

To PanteraPilot :

What the toughest truck do you mean?

KamAZ or Mack?

If we tolking about KamAZ, there is another more impressive vehicle KrAZ that has his heritage from WW2 Macks and Diamond-Ts.

I'm in Moscow, yes.

To shortstack :

Mack has suds with dubble nuts.

Alcoa 983101 means stud piloting, but it was originally in front.

To everybody:

What I'll have to do if try to fit hub type on my chassis - owerdrill holes and make central hole bigger or just put without troubles?

Hello everybody!

I'm trying to put on a road my new toy - R688 E6 -1988.

It has lots of problems including custom-built 20 inch wheels.

They welded of russian KrAZ-KamAZ pieces and are of triangle form now.

Tyres are completely dead that makes together horse-riding drive from 40 km/h up to 90.

Truck was originally fitted with 24,5 Alcoas (and came on them in Russia in 1994).

There are 2 of them survived, has Alcoa number 983101 and located originaly in front.

During my research I found some Freightliner 24.5s (just no Macks in Russia :( ) and some people ready to import used wheels from America.

The matter of question:

looking in the net I noted hub or stud piloting.

I suppose there is no difference to use in front, but what's in the rear?