Vladislav

So those valve seals for 0,5" stems - are they Mack part? Which engine were they supposed to be installed onto originally? 

I knew that stuff for E7 Joey posted but never heard of seals for 1/2" stems.

BTW my Lanova engine also had 1/2" stems both intake and exhaust and it used steel caps put under the stem upper dishes for "shielding" the oil. 

On 2/17/2026 at 5:58 AM, Freightrain said:

I think I have a plan.

Remove the inner sleeve.and then shorten the length to make it just like the 673.

I think it will work out fine.  The wear spot from the seal will be inside past the seal because shortening the sleeve length will move the seal outward toward the flange.

 

Looks doable.  Luckily I know a guy at a machine shop....😉

You can do that with a corner grinder  Accompanied by a caliper for control of evenness and a piece of sand paper put on glass for final finishing of the end.

Sure machine shop is much better option!

19 hours ago, Mark T said:

Didn't they spread out in the front on the MH RW2 and CL700 ?   I kinda remember if they had a liner (double frame) it was the same size as the back up to around the rear front spring hangers and rear motor mount area .

Those do spread definitely. I ment no spread in CH/CX chassis. 

Yup. We too hope the time has already come.

2 hours ago, Mack guy Ata said:

So a funny little update. You guys remember how i wanted a 20 speed on my truck and i might be wrong please correct me if I am. Took out the transmission today it turns out i actually have a 20 speed on it but the Lo-Lo and Lo-Split being stuck shot and the plate saying its a 9 speed. I remember someone actually telling me that i might have one on it with the wrong plate. I will share the photos i took it might be my lack of experience making me think i have a 20 speed. 
 

Another update on the truck The guy selling it to me instead that its a b85 but it is not its a b43 dont really change much for me and i was very suspicious of it being a b85 since I couldnt find any b85 with its configuration. 
 

Another question and maybe i should start a new post since this one is getting old but. The radiator fan is very oddly shaped distance between blades are different is there a reason for this or do i just have a terribly built fan. I will also uplod photos of it

Interesting information. And funny and pleasant fact about the transmission. The fan looks Ok, some trucks and other vehicles used similar styles which look asymmetrical. But they're sure symmetrical by evenness of pressure applied to blades to have the resulting force pointing the shaft exactly in the center.

About the T-stat follow Geoff's explanations. I understand what he means but not able to confirm or argue since don't have time to figure his points right now (actually there's a need to follow the tube arrangement). In your case you might just google "thermostat for B-model" or "thermostat END-673" (basic engine for a B-model diesel truck), look for pictures and than continue looking for its sizes and looking for the particular part on Ebay (they have pics there too for the most time).

Speaking the model of the truck it could be seen from different points. What would you count as a model? The 1st case in the chassis. Since it determines what a rig is on my mind. Determining the chassis model you go looking for the chassis number - the stamping on the rail. If you found it you can send it to Mack museum for learning more detail. If you can't find any stampings you determine the chassis model by its look. Relating with photos of different truck. The forum is of help for that. 

If you associate the truck model with its outer look so relate the look. Yours looks like B-61. There could be variations such as B-62 (gas engine) or B-42 (lighter chassis) etc.

All in all you may have a truck in stock factory configuration or factory model with some components swapped or even a truck assembled from parts of multiple different rigs. Determining what it actually is you determine each component. The 1st is the chassis (again) and if you determined it the museum could provide you on the rest and you than relate that with what you have. That's the straight and the easiest way. If that wouldn't work Ok, you are surrounded by the crew of specialists to answer the most of your questions 

5 hours ago, Mack guy Ata said:

Thank you very much vladislav very helpful piece of information hopefully the renault ones will fit on it since they are more common in Turkey. 
 

If you are going to see a mack or any other cool truck in turkey there is a 90% chance it will be parked in front of a gas station or a restaurant as decoration. In some cases they just turn a semi trailer to a kebab restaurant park the truck in front of the trailer and sell food from it. That was the case with my truck. 

Here's some info on how the later thermostat is looking. Check out your housing, it's possbly supposed to suit a similar one.

And regarding your question on the sleeve/piston gap.

I don't know if anybody already answered it since some while passed by since you asked. I found a figure of 0.004"-0.007" in a E6 4V book. "Piston to liner clearance - 90 degree from pin axis" printed there. That engine uses almost similar sleeves you purchased. Pistons are not the same but I doubt on notable difference in thermal expansion between the two. 4V could be a little bit hotter providing 350hp so slightly lesser figures could be foreseen in your case. The same for light duty use without hard pulls of heavy loads.

19 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Once the car is running,it isn't that bad.  $60 to enter, $40 in race fuel a day.  Diesel fuel to get there($100?).

Building it was where it hurts.  $20k motor, $10k transmission, etc.  Luckily that stuff last a longggggg time.

 

Oh, ya forgot to mention, Mack valve stem seals $14 EACH!!!  Times 12.  Wth.

Larry, what kind of the stem seals are you going to use?

It's probably just my ignorance but as long as I could figure out Mack installed stem seals starting from E7 engine. I took apart two 4V E6 and there were neither seals. What corresponded with the overhaul manual and parts lists. Same for a couple 2V EM6's which went for stock of used spares yet. I suppose there wouldn't be any wrong installing seals in your engine (but who knows?) Just interesting to learn which part and how you determined its suitability.

7 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Vlad, here is the 501 manual. I think the 700 series is similar. It has the torque specs you were looking for. No Idea what to do with the one that was modified with bolts and shows sign of cracking? I wouldn't want to trust it. 

TF 501.pdf 2.05 MB · 0 downloads

Thank you, read with pleasure. I'd say about the nicest midnight reading.

But what disappoints completely and of no less surprize is total absence of mentioning of the connecting rods along the assembly procedures descriptions. They detailed torque ratings for different kinds of the housing end covers, bottom cover, inlet and outlet fittings and many other not very important points. Good thing the tolerances of the piston ring gaps and piston-cylinder gap are mentioned. That would be of use when I rebore my old cylinder block. But no info on the connrod bolts??? 

The second bulletin doesn't conteing that info either. What the...??

The cracked rod cap issue was resolved. I bought a NOS compressor I could use the block, pistons, rods and a few smaller parts off. I mentioned that in one of my posts above.

5 hours ago, CF-Firefighter said:

Vlad,

I don’t know much about the compressors or parts needed. 
 

however I like you, am very mechanical minded and enjoy solving problems others throw away. 
 

this is very interesting to me. Nothing is beyond being taken apart and rebuilt. 
 

Glad to see you find inspiration and ingenuity to work around supply issues we all face in our modern world. 
 

awesome progress my friend. 
 

Taylor

Taylor,

Many thanks for the suggestions and kind words! Very appreciated.

The matter with those bolts seems untypical since the rods are aluminium and the threads are cut in their bodies. So I suppose standard torque ratings are for hardware driven into steel/cast iron. The length of the threads in the particular place is longer since alu is softer. I sure blow on water since might just torque by hand feeling. But the spot is crytical and I'm free on time to collect more info.

Measuring the gap or platigageing wouldn't give much adds on since the rod caps are precision milled and in the perfect shape (new). So overtorqueing wouldn't affect the gap. My point the most is to not damage the threads and be sure on no getting loose during the operation. 

Vlad

I have a couple of questions about these compressors though since my one is in fact not completely assembled at the moment.

1st - what is the torque for the conn rod bolts? I measured it when loosened the rods in the new compressor but the bolts had something looking as a thread lock on the threads so unscrew could be harder than the specs. And should I use any Locktight or other thread lock compound there? I know that wouldn't hurt the deal but better to learn what is prescribed by the manufacturer.

And the 2nd. I probably have count the matter but still have a little bit of doubts. I tied to figure out the way the connecting rods oriented. Sure marked all the parts and the old compressor had the rods with the markings (part#) to the drive end (up front). But that NOS one had one rod to the front and another to the rear. And I'm sure nobody opened it before me and the parts were std which meant factory assembly. Also pistons had no arrows pointing any direction for the fittment. So overall it looked like Bendix saw no matter on which way to install pistons and rods. I put them as they were in my original compressor - same way up front. But if anybody may confirm or argue my guess I would like to hear the suggestions. 

Water manifold on your engine (as I expect by the look of the engine) must be a very common part used on many Mack engines of 70's, 80's, 90's and even 2000's years. It's cast iron, consists of two portions, front and rear. I may be having some extras besides my personal needs but you may be lucky finding it in your home country too. Very similar manifolds (or even the same) were used on E7 and E-tech Mack engines mounted on Renault Magnum trucks. Yes, similarity of some Mack engine parts spreads from late 30's up to 2000's years!

But also depending on the kind of the issue with the manifold it could be fixed. If there's a crack it can be cooper-soldered or welded or just epoxy-glued for some limited service time (a decade or two )

On 2/4/2026 at 6:02 AM, D2Denny said:

Help will be on the way soon for some of these parts. I received a 3D printer for Xmas and have been learning it and cad over the last month. (The last mechanical drawing I did was 60 years ago in engineering class using a drawing board, T square, triangles, and French curves).  Looked up the knob you were searching for and drew up a quickie just approximating the size and shape and printed it off.  Obviously, it needs to be refined but could be done with some extra cad work that I still have to learn. Also downloaded a file and printed a Mack Bulldog (opposite a gennie long eared dog).  I did design and print a Model A Ford door lock knob and door handle mounting pad for my A V8 hot rod, so am moving into a whole new world of generating your own parts at home,

Wow, cool!

Just please let me know when you're able to print a complete Mack Superliner! 

Basically there's a cast adaptor housing and a Morse cone shaft end. You fit a coupling cap with internal splines on it and it mates to a splined tube arranged on the engine side.

But as I said there are plenty Mack pumps with different settings and I know people tried using a pump from a different engine model (power, year) and got wrong operation.

Also for  example a few engines used both Ambac and Bosch pumps. And you could swap one with the other having the correct attachments. But Ambac pump sets with 19 degree initial timing angle and Bosch with 23. For which reason? I don't know.

As I said there are much more nuances than you would like to explore swapping those pumps.

22 hours ago, 67RModel said:

is the Neway air ride factory?

Looks like it is. Some MH's had strange arrangement of the on-chassis brackets installed the front pair onwards and the rear backwards. I'm going to re-equip my MH with Neway off a R-model and it has me scratching my head on why I can't fit all the 4 brackets in similar order.

There were plenty of different injection pumps used on Mack engines during a few decades. I mean 6 in-line. In the most cases they were made by Ambac and Robert Bosch. Two types are different types by the design and fit also. Each brand produced I guess about a hundered or more particular pump mods for different Mack (!) engines. With different stroke volume, different max revs limit and different settings in the governor. 

So if you find out a certain John Deere engine uses a pump of similar style a certain Mack has there are minimal if any chances on full interchangeability.