Vladislav

On 2/4/2026 at 6:02 AM, D2Denny said:

Help will be on the way soon for some of these parts. I received a 3D printer for Xmas and have been learning it and cad over the last month. (The last mechanical drawing I did was 60 years ago in engineering class using a drawing board, T square, triangles, and French curves).  Looked up the knob you were searching for and drew up a quickie just approximating the size and shape and printed it off.  Obviously, it needs to be refined but could be done with some extra cad work that I still have to learn. Also downloaded a file and printed a Mack Bulldog (opposite a gennie long eared dog).  I did design and print a Model A Ford door lock knob and door handle mounting pad for my A V8 hot rod, so am moving into a whole new world of generating your own parts at home,

Wow, cool!

Just please let me know when you're able to print a complete Mack Superliner! 

Basically there's a cast adaptor housing and a Morse cone shaft end. You fit a coupling cap with internal splines on it and it mates to a splined tube arranged on the engine side.

But as I said there are plenty Mack pumps with different settings and I know people tried using a pump from a different engine model (power, year) and got wrong operation.

Also for  example a few engines used both Ambac and Bosch pumps. And you could swap one with the other having the correct attachments. But Ambac pump sets with 19 degree initial timing angle and Bosch with 23. For which reason? I don't know.

As I said there are much more nuances than you would like to explore swapping those pumps.

Ok, I have a few points to mention.

I looked over the photo's you posted. The engine in the truck is the most probably not original but later series Maxidyne 237 HP (ETAZ-675 or so, other guys will correct me). My guess is based on presence of the water/oil heat excheanger (cooler) at the left side. B's had turbo engines too but without it. Air intake pipe from the air filter to the turbo looks custom (home)-made. Also someone converted original air operated wiper drive with electric motor. Both facts may be even seen positive. At least the engine is more powerful but very similar to the original ENDT by the look so I wouldn't sorry about the fact.

If the truck had 9-speed tranny with two sticks I'm pretty sure you will have quite enough "fun" shifting it. At least in the beginning. The 2nd stick is a splitter. So you start in 2nd low than shift to 2nd high (with that 2nd stick) than you have to get 3rd low so... you shift both main from 2nd to 3rd and the compound from hi to lo. At the same time and without clutch! I may be a bit extra emotional on this since the most American guys who drive a vintage truck count that action as simple as apples. But an avarage European person who's skilled to drive a car with synchronized mechanical box finds himself in a total nightmare when tries shifting that unit. I don't want to spread too extensive description but just mention one more fact. 5th main (the top gear) is right front from you. Not right rear as in a car. So you shift the main stick left front-left rear- right REAR and than right front. That's just an addition to the no-clutch (or double clutch) shifting using two sticks.

Ok, further on. I would like to see the housing of your transmission from under the truck. And the front axle beam too. Since I have an interesting guess. At least the axle beam looks familiar to me by what I can see on the front truck's picture. And that's not an axle typical for a B-model.

Of one more interesting point is the rear axle ratio. It determines how fast you can go with the truck (using particular transmission and the drive wheels size for sure). If you look at the differential housing of each rear axle at the front area to the right of the propeller shaft flange you could see two data tags (plates) attached with rivets. Clean out the lover ones (but sure better both of them). There's a script "RATIO" on the lower plates and than 3 digits (6,34 or 7,33 or so) are stamped in. My bet you will find 9.02 there. But I may be wrong.

Also your truck has cool looking heavy wheel hubs for 20" tube type tyres. The hubs are not typical for North American market, my guess they were a special order for a certain East customer. The rims are split rims made as 3 portions. They must be reliable enough to drive safe if mounted right. Many people may say they're bad thing and nobody wants to work with them for tyre installation. But on my mind they're suitable for self service and are definitely a nice sample of the older days engeneering. So I would keet them if that was my truck. Sure it's yours so you're up to the choice.

The tyres on the FR axle look like made in Russia 12.00R20 or 11.00R20. 

22 hours ago, 67RModel said:

is the Neway air ride factory?

Looks like it is. Some MH's had strange arrangement of the on-chassis brackets installed the front pair onwards and the rear backwards. I'm going to re-equip my MH with Neway off a R-model and it has me scratching my head on why I can't fit all the 4 brackets in similar order.

Good luck! I will keep you on my mind. Best wishes on the safe turn out!

There were plenty of different injection pumps used on Mack engines during a few decades. I mean 6 in-line. In the most cases they were made by Ambac and Robert Bosch. Two types are different types by the design and fit also. Each brand produced I guess about a hundered or more particular pump mods for different Mack (!) engines. With different stroke volume, different max revs limit and different settings in the governor. 

So if you find out a certain John Deere engine uses a pump of similar style a certain Mack has there are minimal if any chances on full interchangeability. 

20 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

A load of Middle East R models 

 

Paul 

Looks like Dutch folks were transporting used R-models they sold to Iran. If my memory serves right I saw a pic somewhere with a raw of R-models in similar colors with a script of those trucks were sold in The Netherlands and shipped to Iran.

On 12/3/2025 at 8:26 PM, mrsmackpaul said:

OHS Mack with apparently a camel rescue ???

 

 

 

Paul

That was apparently a nice road to drive over with a truck. Wonder how fast could you go there with a semy? 20 or 30km/h? Barely much faster than that camel.

Somewhere in the Eastern part of Turkey I suppose by the look of the environment.

2 hours ago, cruiseliner64 said:

Yes it is very easy to use.We have been restoreing this truck and had removed the entire fuel system from the truck including the fuel tanks right up to the lift pump to paint the frame.We fitted new filters and fuel lines.We did fill the filters with fresh fuel.we were advised it could be a bit of a nightmare to bleed as it had been sitting there for almost 6 months.After about 1 minute of hand priming the truck started first turn of the key.We think the the check valve helped a hell of a lot.....

Paul

Fuel also stayed in the injector lines. Fuel pump supply gallery probably bled off during the parking time but you compensated the loss with the prime pump.

21 hours ago, mowerman said:

Now I see the windows are dull indeed. And you barely could see the interior. Lighter color might be seen from the outside though. But sure that's a big add on regarding labour.

6 minutes ago, kscarbel2 said:

For example, they fit the slide levers on a Red Dot unit in an 1990 to 2000 MR.

My brain remains full of part numbers, a testament to the superiority of the Mack part system (Mack numbers were not arbitrary like Volvo, rather the part number structure had meanings). But even I can not remember them all, not having used them in years.

Thank you. I've a few those knobs lost off RD heaters in 2 or 3 R/RD-model cabs. And fan switches too. New ones check out cheap. So seems worth to stock up before they're NLA.

Yes, Volvo part numbers are blind. And long in digits to remember. I have never had a clue on the actual Mack ## meanings. Would be interesting to investigate the matter but difficult due to limited ability of the parts lists. 

55 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Well done!

Now a small trick is needed on my mind. Just paint this all over into light green!

Good question. I would like to hear the answer too.

20 hours ago, kscarbel2 said:

That's an Evans.

I'm sorry, I can't remember the 2790-HVxxxxxx part-number for the slider knobs. 

Red Dot has a similar knob, RD544500, but of course I'd rather look up the truck by model and serial, get the 2RD heater assembly number and grab the correct 2790- knob number from that breakdown and supercede forward from there.

Kevin, sorry to bother. Is that RD544500 Red Dot knob fit to the temp control levers (as on the above pic) or on the small blower control lever too?

23 hours ago, Mark T said:

I could be wrong, but I think the bushing in the Nuway is the same as the bushing in some of the Hendrickson walking beams. Seems it might be the same adaptor.

Possibly. I'm not familiar with Hendrickson walking beams unfortunately besides seeing them on pics.

23 hours ago, DieselDog5.9 said:

I think the cast housings can only be used with camelback suspension, and to have Hendrickson or Chalmers you need the stamped steel housings to weld the propriatory brackets to.

I had a set of cast axles combined with Neway airride using steel adapters bolted to the spots you normally fit caps for spring end rubber bushings. 1988 R-model. Unfortunately it didn't come to me as a truck just sets of axles and a gearbox. The adapters were welded of thick (7/8" or so) steel plates cut off a sheet. But looked like factory parts way not a home made stuff. They were used to attach the equalizer levers to the axle housings.   

Looks great!

Trent,

Do you have Ambac or Bosch pump on your 285?

As it seems to me the most calibrations of a pump are done in the governor. The pump sections may be different by the plunger diameter the most. And that point should be checked some way. But very possibly that's similar between the two. Also the shape of cams can differ in the cam shaft. Some have steeper upcoming curve for faster pressure increase and "harder crack" on injectors but that doesn't affect combustion much as I was told by a pump guy (I actually was told "as steeper as better"). Besides that all specifics are housed in a governor. If you have both pumps of similar style you could swap it over. But no way for Ambac pump to adopt Bosch governor.

As I remember they all have similar threads where you bolt them into the pump housing. And the threads are metric if I'm not wrong. Interesting that European vehicles with Robert Bosch pumps use almost similar hand primers. What we here have normaly in shops are German Bosch or aftermarket primers and I used a couple in Mack pumps.