Vladislav

10 hours ago, KCH1974 said:

 

Wonder what was the origin of its body? Thick steel put together with rivets. Looks very massive and steady overall. 

Or a straight round drift or a screwdriver to put into the washer hole but deep for washer thickness only. Than try to work as a lever, possibly hitting the tool by hammer at its side.

A drill bit to cut its blades into and try to move?

23 minutes ago, terry said:

If bearings are oil lubed, would’nt it take alot more oil to fill? terry

Those brearings were also grease filled. At least that's what I have in my NR-model of 1945. Jack shaft end caps (removable flanges) have extra seals fit inside which separate ends of the axle housing tubes from the bearings cavity and gear oil can't go there.

Tom, it sounds like you just didn't tell that ferrule was made of gold. By its look it could really be. Otherwise I have no idea on the amount of efforts you put into location of it.

Happy B-day Heinz!

I've driven over that bridge in 2018. From Maryland to Virginia Beach. That was a matter of interest. My plan was to reach Keystone Truck and Tractor Museum and when I saw so long bridge on the map I resolved to take that route. Very impressive no doubt. I parked at the view point parking lot near the entry and saw a storm upcoming in the sea. So figured to not wait long. Had no idea on how the crossing could be dangerous. Expected for that to be safe being on a public road. And I was with a rental SUV, not a truck. Hit hard wind when over the bridge but that seemed normal for such a place. Reached the other coast before the rain.

Sorry to hear about the crash and the driver's death.

22 hours ago, Mark T said:

Yes.  If I'm not mistaken the CH/CX is 33 and a half inches wide too.  Never intended for anything but raw Mack 6 cylinder power. 

Chassis booklet says 33.94 wide at the rear end and CL/RW2 keeps the same figure. R-models and its family is 33.37 and so on around the figure depending on the thickness of the steel.

Good point indeed, CH/CX accomodated 6 in-line engines only. Mack or MP8/Volvo in later years.  

So those valve seals for 0,5" stems - are they Mack part? Which engine were they supposed to be installed onto originally? 

I knew that stuff for E7 Joey posted but never heard of seals for 1/2" stems.

BTW my Lanova engine also had 1/2" stems both intake and exhaust and it used steel caps put under the stem upper dishes for "shielding" the oil. 

On 2/17/2026 at 5:58 AM, Freightrain said:

I think I have a plan.

Remove the inner sleeve.and then shorten the length to make it just like the 673.

I think it will work out fine.  The wear spot from the seal will be inside past the seal because shortening the sleeve length will move the seal outward toward the flange.

 

Looks doable.  Luckily I know a guy at a machine shop....😉

You can do that with a corner grinder  Accompanied by a caliper for control of evenness and a piece of sand paper put on glass for final finishing of the end.

Sure machine shop is much better option!

19 hours ago, Mark T said:

Didn't they spread out in the front on the MH RW2 and CL700 ?   I kinda remember if they had a liner (double frame) it was the same size as the back up to around the rear front spring hangers and rear motor mount area .

Those do spread definitely. I ment no spread in CH/CX chassis. 

Yup. We too hope the time has already come.

2 hours ago, Mack guy Ata said:

So a funny little update. You guys remember how i wanted a 20 speed on my truck and i might be wrong please correct me if I am. Took out the transmission today it turns out i actually have a 20 speed on it but the Lo-Lo and Lo-Split being stuck shot and the plate saying its a 9 speed. I remember someone actually telling me that i might have one on it with the wrong plate. I will share the photos i took it might be my lack of experience making me think i have a 20 speed. 
 

Another update on the truck The guy selling it to me instead that its a b85 but it is not its a b43 dont really change much for me and i was very suspicious of it being a b85 since I couldnt find any b85 with its configuration. 
 

Another question and maybe i should start a new post since this one is getting old but. The radiator fan is very oddly shaped distance between blades are different is there a reason for this or do i just have a terribly built fan. I will also uplod photos of it

Interesting information. And funny and pleasant fact about the transmission. The fan looks Ok, some trucks and other vehicles used similar styles which look asymmetrical. But they're sure symmetrical by evenness of pressure applied to blades to have the resulting force pointing the shaft exactly in the center.

About the T-stat follow Geoff's explanations. I understand what he means but not able to confirm or argue since don't have time to figure his points right now (actually there's a need to follow the tube arrangement). In your case you might just google "thermostat for B-model" or "thermostat END-673" (basic engine for a B-model diesel truck), look for pictures and than continue looking for its sizes and looking for the particular part on Ebay (they have pics there too for the most time).

Speaking the model of the truck it could be seen from different points. What would you count as a model? The 1st case in the chassis. Since it determines what a rig is on my mind. Determining the chassis model you go looking for the chassis number - the stamping on the rail. If you found it you can send it to Mack museum for learning more detail. If you can't find any stampings you determine the chassis model by its look. Relating with photos of different truck. The forum is of help for that. 

If you associate the truck model with its outer look so relate the look. Yours looks like B-61. There could be variations such as B-62 (gas engine) or B-42 (lighter chassis) etc.

All in all you may have a truck in stock factory configuration or factory model with some components swapped or even a truck assembled from parts of multiple different rigs. Determining what it actually is you determine each component. The 1st is the chassis (again) and if you determined it the museum could provide you on the rest and you than relate that with what you have. That's the straight and the easiest way. If that wouldn't work Ok, you are surrounded by the crew of specialists to answer the most of your questions 

5 hours ago, Mack guy Ata said:

Thank you very much vladislav very helpful piece of information hopefully the renault ones will fit on it since they are more common in Turkey. 
 

If you are going to see a mack or any other cool truck in turkey there is a 90% chance it will be parked in front of a gas station or a restaurant as decoration. In some cases they just turn a semi trailer to a kebab restaurant park the truck in front of the trailer and sell food from it. That was the case with my truck. 

Here's some info on how the later thermostat is looking. Check out your housing, it's possbly supposed to suit a similar one.

And regarding your question on the sleeve/piston gap.

I don't know if anybody already answered it since some while passed by since you asked. I found a figure of 0.004"-0.007" in a E6 4V book. "Piston to liner clearance - 90 degree from pin axis" printed there. That engine uses almost similar sleeves you purchased. Pistons are not the same but I doubt on notable difference in thermal expansion between the two. 4V could be a little bit hotter providing 350hp so slightly lesser figures could be foreseen in your case. The same for light duty use without hard pulls of heavy loads.

19 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Once the car is running,it isn't that bad.  $60 to enter, $40 in race fuel a day.  Diesel fuel to get there($100?).

Building it was where it hurts.  $20k motor, $10k transmission, etc.  Luckily that stuff last a longggggg time.

 

Oh, ya forgot to mention, Mack valve stem seals $14 EACH!!!  Times 12.  Wth.

Larry, what kind of the stem seals are you going to use?

It's probably just my ignorance but as long as I could figure out Mack installed stem seals starting from E7 engine. I took apart two 4V E6 and there were neither seals. What corresponded with the overhaul manual and parts lists. Same for a couple 2V EM6's which went for stock of used spares yet. I suppose there wouldn't be any wrong installing seals in your engine (but who knows?) Just interesting to learn which part and how you determined its suitability.