Vladislav

Also you might enjoy seeing this. It was posted on here in the past.

16 hours ago, TheRaginKagen said:

That is a sharp looking truck!!

I really appreciate it!! It is truly a dream come true for me. A gentleman in the Superliner group on Facebook said he had his made up by a fab shop near him and will put me in touch when I need work like that done

For my application I ordered straight square U-channel 3" tall bent of polished SS in a fab shop. Than cut off the shelves in the corner areas for radius bends and wrapped those over a piece of steel tube. Could be done with no really big efforts if you have basic skills working with sheet metal. Some experiments with cardboard are worth executing before the real deal. 

1 hour ago, Mack guy Ata said:

Thank you all. Yeah Vlad back in the day before i was even born there were planty of B seris mack in turkey but 80-90% of them were sadlt crushed for 2 reason people had no idea how to maintain them and operate them there for they were all very beatn up and 2nd is eveyone tought they were wothles and just junked them. Most classic cars suffered the same fate as these beautiful trukcs did. Thanks for the tip Brocky. I will get in touch with them with a donation. A very odd think is there are no signs of a 5 th wheel ever been connected on the truck but i might be wrong im young and have much to learn about classic trucks

 

That's an interesting point of no signs of the 5th wheel ever installed. Iranians still have plenty B-models straight trucks with long wheel base and cargo body in operation. But those assembled in Iran have industrial style front grille with shutters in the most cases.

I'm pretty sure you will make many discoveries about yout truck since it is not young and definitely keeps some history. If you make more pictures of it (chassis, engine compartment, front axle) people on here might share some useful info about it I belive.

Welcome to the group and greetings from Russia!

Which part of Turkey are you in? I used to travel over your country a few times in the past. The Eastern areas recently the most.

The truck looks very nice and definitly rare in your country nowadays. I was told there were many of them in the past but they seem gone. B-85 must be a firetruck from the factory but looking the picture the chassis more seems to me as a normal commercial truck or tractor. Too possibly someone put the cab with front end off a fire truck onto different chassis. The answer could be recieved reading the chassis number. Normally it is stamped into RH frame rail just behind the right front wheel. Starts with B-85... or B-61 or B-53 etc.

Sorry no help about the dash switchews from my side besides what the guys already said.

Cool looking truck, congratulations on the purchase!

Vlad

Interesting configuration as it is. I don't remember seeing many (any-?) RB dump trucks.

Thanks for sharing.

6 hours ago, KP2 said:

Thank you.  I was hesitant to weld then cut down the shaft because I thought it may weaken it.  I thought by putting the wear sleeve over the worn area and a new seal would do the same as cutting shaft down and putting a sleeve but I have no experience doing machine work.  

Right machine work presumes sharpness and accuracy with tolerances. Your bad experience with that speedy sleeve is the most prbably due to its imperfect fit. Which could be predicted by its very imperfect shape and even the design. A thin wall tube pressed over unevenly worn surface doesn't seem supplying perfect surface for a seal to seat against and work well. I honestly am surprized at all this technology is count as "good" and so widely used. And at the same time I heard from multiple guys that they use such a sleeve and got leak back again soon.

As less excentricity of the spinning surface is as less deformation of the seal's rubber is required to keep tightness. It's more actual for higher revs applications though so doesn't seem the matter of your issue. Possibly there was leak just between the sleeve and the shaft if you didn't apply sealer or epoxy in between. Or the sleeve's shape was so imperfect so the seal couldn't do its job at all. Or got worn or cut by a certain sharp edge. 

Maybe it's worth for you to just spend a couple of hours in the evening to read on the web basic principles of fabrication of shafts. Engeneering is way not always a rocket since. Most basic points are easy enough to figure just by common logic.

Hmm...

The mounts of both cabs are expected to be the same. There are some additional parts welded (or bolted?) to the cowl at the engine side to suit the steel nose shells and fenders. By other aspects cab must be similar.

Yup, looks nice and attractive. And nothing of the look it had when came into the shop.

A question - what did you use to clean the lower side of the cab? I see bare aluminium the most (or light paint?) And my Cruiseliner is well covered with dry mud all over the under side of the cab.

Happy Birthday Doubleclutchingweasel !

By very simple reason my "bet" the engine is E6-350 Econodyne. I have one in a 1988 R-model with similar injection pump. The "bet" is due to the 9-speed transmission used. Mine has the same. You don't need 9 speeds behind a Maxidine since its torque curve works well with just 5 speeds.

I have another R-model also 1988 made which has T2070 7-speed transmission. Its ratios are similar to T2050 5-speed but have two "low holes". There's a similary rated T2060 6-speed and T2080 8-speed. All trio has first 5 gears spread much wider than "multispeeds" T2090, T2100, T2110, T2130 and T2118. Wider gear steps are aimed to serve with Maxidyne low torque curve engines. Ok, that my other R-model has its engine stamped as EM6-300L. Almost as Keith described regarding his DM. 

It's a bit easier to identify R or DM since E6-350 would be R/DM688 model and EM6-300 would be R/DM-690. That's what I have on the door tags. RW's are all 613 or 713 with Mack engines so no clue up.

Happy B-day D-Day!

Sounds strange. Those drums I had for 4" shoes had a track for 4" shoe exactly. There could be some exceptions sure but more looks like someone put incorrect drums in the past. The reason of using narrower shoes is to minimize the unsuspended mass of the axle. But lesser drum would split weight even notably. Same for possible savings of materials in the production.

The heads are interchengeable. The only point you have is a small tube between two heads connecting them (fuel drain?) and there's a plug with Allen head at the corresponding end of each head. So you might be needing to change the tube fitting with the plug if the particular head was mounted in the different position on engine previousely.

No info on the peened seats from my side. Looks like a rocket technology of someone who provided a seat swap in a shop with hope to secure them better. Wouldn't make any help as it seems to me. 

On 12/6/2025 at 3:18 AM, Gabagool said:

I had a question maybe one of you guys could answer. I just bought my soon to be father in law door dogs for his R model Mack project. I found some brand new ones but they have a smooth shaft stud instead of a threaded nut/stud like I was expecting. Is there a special way these install or am I better off taking a die to it and threading it that way? Thanks!

As Bob said above. And the same method M-A-C-K letters attached to the front of the hood.

It seems better to have low beam in outside lights just by prcatical reasons. Lights are closer to the sides of a vehicle to play a marker role and light pattern on the road is wider.

On 12/5/2025 at 1:26 AM, Mark T said:

You may need to Google that one (lol)

That's what I needed for. And Google said "sh*t" as the straight answer. But deeper investigation brang more.

Oh, better to get back to the Cruiseliner deal.

Hi Ken,

Just a point. Swap of a bumper and visor are much less job than rearranging the rear axles. You could even put such big bright parts up for sale when still on a truck. Very good advertizement way when people see the look they'd get.

The rig looks cool on the pic. Sure might be found in poorer condition when up close.

Speaking convertion 613 to 612 I'd consider airride for that. Keeping the FR in place cutting off the RR with the rear frame portion. FR diff would need attention though since there's a power divider in it. Would need RR carrier to be swapped into. 

Couldn't they be of different thickness?

Visually they're one style indeed.

Would be interesting to check out the parts lists.