Vladislav

5 hours ago, Mack guy Ata said:

Thank you very much vladislav very helpful piece of information hopefully the renault ones will fit on it since they are more common in Turkey. 
 

If you are going to see a mack or any other cool truck in turkey there is a 90% chance it will be parked in front of a gas station or a restaurant as decoration. In some cases they just turn a semi trailer to a kebab restaurant park the truck in front of the trailer and sell food from it. That was the case with my truck. 

Here's some info on how the later thermostat is looking. Check out your housing, it's possbly supposed to suit a similar one.

And regarding your question on the sleeve/piston gap.

I don't know if anybody already answered it since some while passed by since you asked. I found a figure of 0.004"-0.007" in a E6 4V book. "Piston to liner clearance - 90 degree from pin axis" printed there. That engine uses almost similar sleeves you purchased. Pistons are not the same but I doubt on notable difference in thermal expansion between the two. 4V could be a little bit hotter providing 350hp so slightly lesser figures could be foreseen in your case. The same for light duty use without hard pulls of heavy loads.

19 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Once the car is running,it isn't that bad.  $60 to enter, $40 in race fuel a day.  Diesel fuel to get there($100?).

Building it was where it hurts.  $20k motor, $10k transmission, etc.  Luckily that stuff last a longggggg time.

 

Oh, ya forgot to mention, Mack valve stem seals $14 EACH!!!  Times 12.  Wth.

Larry, what kind of the stem seals are you going to use?

It's probably just my ignorance but as long as I could figure out Mack installed stem seals starting from E7 engine. I took apart two 4V E6 and there were neither seals. What corresponded with the overhaul manual and parts lists. Same for a couple 2V EM6's which went for stock of used spares yet. I suppose there wouldn't be any wrong installing seals in your engine (but who knows?) Just interesting to learn which part and how you determined its suitability.

7 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Vlad, here is the 501 manual. I think the 700 series is similar. It has the torque specs you were looking for. No Idea what to do with the one that was modified with bolts and shows sign of cracking? I wouldn't want to trust it. 

TF 501.pdf 2.05 MB · 0 downloads

Thank you, read with pleasure. I'd say about the nicest midnight reading.

But what disappoints completely and of no less surprize is total absence of mentioning of the connecting rods along the assembly procedures descriptions. They detailed torque ratings for different kinds of the housing end covers, bottom cover, inlet and outlet fittings and many other not very important points. Good thing the tolerances of the piston ring gaps and piston-cylinder gap are mentioned. That would be of use when I rebore my old cylinder block. But no info on the connrod bolts??? 

The second bulletin doesn't conteing that info either. What the...??

The cracked rod cap issue was resolved. I bought a NOS compressor I could use the block, pistons, rods and a few smaller parts off. I mentioned that in one of my posts above.

5 hours ago, CF-Firefighter said:

Vlad,

I don’t know much about the compressors or parts needed. 
 

however I like you, am very mechanical minded and enjoy solving problems others throw away. 
 

this is very interesting to me. Nothing is beyond being taken apart and rebuilt. 
 

Glad to see you find inspiration and ingenuity to work around supply issues we all face in our modern world. 
 

awesome progress my friend. 
 

Taylor

Taylor,

Many thanks for the suggestions and kind words! Very appreciated.

The matter with those bolts seems untypical since the rods are aluminium and the threads are cut in their bodies. So I suppose standard torque ratings are for hardware driven into steel/cast iron. The length of the threads in the particular place is longer since alu is softer. I sure blow on water since might just torque by hand feeling. But the spot is crytical and I'm free on time to collect more info.

Measuring the gap or platigageing wouldn't give much adds on since the rod caps are precision milled and in the perfect shape (new). So overtorqueing wouldn't affect the gap. My point the most is to not damage the threads and be sure on no getting loose during the operation. 

Vlad

I have a couple of questions about these compressors though since my one is in fact not completely assembled at the moment.

1st - what is the torque for the conn rod bolts? I measured it when loosened the rods in the new compressor but the bolts had something looking as a thread lock on the threads so unscrew could be harder than the specs. And should I use any Locktight or other thread lock compound there? I know that wouldn't hurt the deal but better to learn what is prescribed by the manufacturer.

And the 2nd. I probably have count the matter but still have a little bit of doubts. I tied to figure out the way the connecting rods oriented. Sure marked all the parts and the old compressor had the rods with the markings (part#) to the drive end (up front). But that NOS one had one rod to the front and another to the rear. And I'm sure nobody opened it before me and the parts were std which meant factory assembly. Also pistons had no arrows pointing any direction for the fittment. So overall it looked like Bendix saw no matter on which way to install pistons and rods. I put them as they were in my original compressor - same way up front. But if anybody may confirm or argue my guess I would like to hear the suggestions. 

Water manifold on your engine (as I expect by the look of the engine) must be a very common part used on many Mack engines of 70's, 80's, 90's and even 2000's years. It's cast iron, consists of two portions, front and rear. I may be having some extras besides my personal needs but you may be lucky finding it in your home country too. Very similar manifolds (or even the same) were used on E7 and E-tech Mack engines mounted on Renault Magnum trucks. Yes, similarity of some Mack engine parts spreads from late 30's up to 2000's years!

But also depending on the kind of the issue with the manifold it could be fixed. If there's a crack it can be cooper-soldered or welded or just epoxy-glued for some limited service time (a decade or two )

On 2/4/2026 at 6:02 AM, D2Denny said:

Help will be on the way soon for some of these parts. I received a 3D printer for Xmas and have been learning it and cad over the last month. (The last mechanical drawing I did was 60 years ago in engineering class using a drawing board, T square, triangles, and French curves).  Looked up the knob you were searching for and drew up a quickie just approximating the size and shape and printed it off.  Obviously, it needs to be refined but could be done with some extra cad work that I still have to learn. Also downloaded a file and printed a Mack Bulldog (opposite a gennie long eared dog).  I did design and print a Model A Ford door lock knob and door handle mounting pad for my A V8 hot rod, so am moving into a whole new world of generating your own parts at home,

Wow, cool!

Just please let me know when you're able to print a complete Mack Superliner! 

Basically there's a cast adaptor housing and a Morse cone shaft end. You fit a coupling cap with internal splines on it and it mates to a splined tube arranged on the engine side.

But as I said there are plenty Mack pumps with different settings and I know people tried using a pump from a different engine model (power, year) and got wrong operation.

Also for  example a few engines used both Ambac and Bosch pumps. And you could swap one with the other having the correct attachments. But Ambac pump sets with 19 degree initial timing angle and Bosch with 23. For which reason? I don't know.

As I said there are much more nuances than you would like to explore swapping those pumps.

22 hours ago, 67RModel said:

is the Neway air ride factory?

Looks like it is. Some MH's had strange arrangement of the on-chassis brackets installed the front pair onwards and the rear backwards. I'm going to re-equip my MH with Neway off a R-model and it has me scratching my head on why I can't fit all the 4 brackets in similar order.

Good luck! I will keep you on my mind. Best wishes on the safe turn out!

There were plenty of different injection pumps used on Mack engines during a few decades. I mean 6 in-line. In the most cases they were made by Ambac and Robert Bosch. Two types are different types by the design and fit also. Each brand produced I guess about a hundered or more particular pump mods for different Mack (!) engines. With different stroke volume, different max revs limit and different settings in the governor. 

So if you find out a certain John Deere engine uses a pump of similar style a certain Mack has there are minimal if any chances on full interchangeability. 

20 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

A load of Middle East R models 

 

Paul 

Looks like Dutch folks were transporting used R-models they sold to Iran. If my memory serves right I saw a pic somewhere with a raw of R-models in similar colors with a script of those trucks were sold in The Netherlands and shipped to Iran.

On 12/3/2025 at 8:26 PM, mrsmackpaul said:

OHS Mack with apparently a camel rescue ???

 

 

 

Paul

That was apparently a nice road to drive over with a truck. Wonder how fast could you go there with a semy? 20 or 30km/h? Barely much faster than that camel.

Somewhere in the Eastern part of Turkey I suppose by the look of the environment.

2 hours ago, cruiseliner64 said:

Yes it is very easy to use.We have been restoreing this truck and had removed the entire fuel system from the truck including the fuel tanks right up to the lift pump to paint the frame.We fitted new filters and fuel lines.We did fill the filters with fresh fuel.we were advised it could be a bit of a nightmare to bleed as it had been sitting there for almost 6 months.After about 1 minute of hand priming the truck started first turn of the key.We think the the check valve helped a hell of a lot.....

Paul

Fuel also stayed in the injector lines. Fuel pump supply gallery probably bled off during the parking time but you compensated the loss with the prime pump.

21 hours ago, mowerman said:

Now I see the windows are dull indeed. And you barely could see the interior. Lighter color might be seen from the outside though. But sure that's a big add on regarding labour.

6 minutes ago, kscarbel2 said:

For example, they fit the slide levers on a Red Dot unit in an 1990 to 2000 MR.

My brain remains full of part numbers, a testament to the superiority of the Mack part system (Mack numbers were not arbitrary like Volvo, rather the part number structure had meanings). But even I can not remember them all, not having used them in years.

Thank you. I've a few those knobs lost off RD heaters in 2 or 3 R/RD-model cabs. And fan switches too. New ones check out cheap. So seems worth to stock up before they're NLA.

Yes, Volvo part numbers are blind. And long in digits to remember. I have never had a clue on the actual Mack ## meanings. Would be interesting to investigate the matter but difficult due to limited ability of the parts lists. 

55 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Well done!

Now a small trick is needed on my mind. Just paint this all over into light green!