Vladislav

Looks great!

Trent,

Do you have Ambac or Bosch pump on your 285?

As it seems to me the most calibrations of a pump are done in the governor. The pump sections may be different by the plunger diameter the most. And that point should be checked some way. But very possibly that's similar between the two. Also the shape of cams can differ in the cam shaft. Some have steeper upcoming curve for faster pressure increase and "harder crack" on injectors but that doesn't affect combustion much as I was told by a pump guy (I actually was told "as steeper as better"). Besides that all specifics are housed in a governor. If you have both pumps of similar style you could swap it over. But no way for Ambac pump to adopt Bosch governor.

As I remember they all have similar threads where you bolt them into the pump housing. And the threads are metric if I'm not wrong. Interesting that European vehicles with Robert Bosch pumps use almost similar hand primers. What we here have normaly in shops are German Bosch or aftermarket primers and I used a couple in Mack pumps.

Those numbers are always there. I have 3 or 4 E6V4 blocks with them and about the same count of E6V2 either. They're not an engine serial number definitely. Probably some internal factory markings. Might matter a group of parts you use working with a parts list for identification but I'm not familiar with that subject.

One of my trucks has those put into the registry papers as the engine number. Looks logish if you don't know of how that number should be marked. And that's a kind of issue for me now since we're able to swap an engine legally if install a similar one. Which means similar model designation. In my case I couldn't use another similar E6 block in place of the old one since that different one is stamped differently in THAT spot.

I installed Xenon light in my 1985 Mercedes car as soon as I could put my hands on a set of. About 2001 year. Factory installed xenon used to have (must have?) dynamic level corrector for not blinding opposit traffic when the vehicle is bouncing on road bumps or gets out of horizont being loaded. I didn't have any correctors besides a manual one but saw no warnings from other folks when my lamps were set normal (or a bit lower than they should). LED lamps I put in two vehicles recently are no less brighter than factory xenon. Again it looks Ok and I also noted about 50-70% of upcoming traffic have it installed in the area I live. I suppose a half of them is modern cars with factory LED's and a half of home installed units. From where I'm sitting by the wheel I see no discomfort from them as long as they don't glow in the sky. 

RS700? Or RL? I like them both no matter alu or steel.

Good luck on the project!

LED lamps could be installed into the existing lenses. IDK if that's legal regarding your DOT requirements though. I put a pair in my motorcycle and also 4x4 Mercedes recently and very happy with the results. 

Also you might enjoy seeing this. It was posted on here in the past.

16 hours ago, TheRaginKagen said:

That is a sharp looking truck!!

I really appreciate it!! It is truly a dream come true for me. A gentleman in the Superliner group on Facebook said he had his made up by a fab shop near him and will put me in touch when I need work like that done

For my application I ordered straight square U-channel 3" tall bent of polished SS in a fab shop. Than cut off the shelves in the corner areas for radius bends and wrapped those over a piece of steel tube. Could be done with no really big efforts if you have basic skills working with sheet metal. Some experiments with cardboard are worth executing before the real deal. 

1 hour ago, Mack guy Ata said:

Thank you all. Yeah Vlad back in the day before i was even born there were planty of B seris mack in turkey but 80-90% of them were sadlt crushed for 2 reason people had no idea how to maintain them and operate them there for they were all very beatn up and 2nd is eveyone tought they were wothles and just junked them. Most classic cars suffered the same fate as these beautiful trukcs did. Thanks for the tip Brocky. I will get in touch with them with a donation. A very odd think is there are no signs of a 5 th wheel ever been connected on the truck but i might be wrong im young and have much to learn about classic trucks

 

That's an interesting point of no signs of the 5th wheel ever installed. Iranians still have plenty B-models straight trucks with long wheel base and cargo body in operation. But those assembled in Iran have industrial style front grille with shutters in the most cases.

I'm pretty sure you will make many discoveries about yout truck since it is not young and definitely keeps some history. If you make more pictures of it (chassis, engine compartment, front axle) people on here might share some useful info about it I belive.

Welcome to the group and greetings from Russia!

Which part of Turkey are you in? I used to travel over your country a few times in the past. The Eastern areas recently the most.

The truck looks very nice and definitly rare in your country nowadays. I was told there were many of them in the past but they seem gone. B-85 must be a firetruck from the factory but looking the picture the chassis more seems to me as a normal commercial truck or tractor. Too possibly someone put the cab with front end off a fire truck onto different chassis. The answer could be recieved reading the chassis number. Normally it is stamped into RH frame rail just behind the right front wheel. Starts with B-85... or B-61 or B-53 etc.

Sorry no help about the dash switchews from my side besides what the guys already said.

Cool looking truck, congratulations on the purchase!

Vlad

Interesting configuration as it is. I don't remember seeing many (any-?) RB dump trucks.

Thanks for sharing.

6 hours ago, KP2 said:

Thank you.  I was hesitant to weld then cut down the shaft because I thought it may weaken it.  I thought by putting the wear sleeve over the worn area and a new seal would do the same as cutting shaft down and putting a sleeve but I have no experience doing machine work.  

Right machine work presumes sharpness and accuracy with tolerances. Your bad experience with that speedy sleeve is the most prbably due to its imperfect fit. Which could be predicted by its very imperfect shape and even the design. A thin wall tube pressed over unevenly worn surface doesn't seem supplying perfect surface for a seal to seat against and work well. I honestly am surprized at all this technology is count as "good" and so widely used. And at the same time I heard from multiple guys that they use such a sleeve and got leak back again soon.

As less excentricity of the spinning surface is as less deformation of the seal's rubber is required to keep tightness. It's more actual for higher revs applications though so doesn't seem the matter of your issue. Possibly there was leak just between the sleeve and the shaft if you didn't apply sealer or epoxy in between. Or the sleeve's shape was so imperfect so the seal couldn't do its job at all. Or got worn or cut by a certain sharp edge. 

Maybe it's worth for you to just spend a couple of hours in the evening to read on the web basic principles of fabrication of shafts. Engeneering is way not always a rocket since. Most basic points are easy enough to figure just by common logic.

Hmm...

The mounts of both cabs are expected to be the same. There are some additional parts welded (or bolted?) to the cowl at the engine side to suit the steel nose shells and fenders. By other aspects cab must be similar.

Yup, looks nice and attractive. And nothing of the look it had when came into the shop.

A question - what did you use to clean the lower side of the cab? I see bare aluminium the most (or light paint?) And my Cruiseliner is well covered with dry mud all over the under side of the cab.