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Vladislav

BMT Benefactor
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Posts posted by Vladislav

  1. Pawel, your job looks too strange.

    It's good you made Camelback instead of unknown rears from Italery kit.

    But rear bogie brackets to the frame...

    I like them too much though they were made in 40's, 50's and 60's including B models but no R's.

    I'm not a 100% shure but 99.

    Look at the pictures I made of 80's DM. You can see the typical R's Camelback.

    If you have ever seen the R model kit of AMT that one has the same rears.

    So you have to think strong about untill you have the chassis unpainted.

    The axle gears, springs and tie-rods looks Ok.

    Try to look ower Autoinscale Russian model building forum (AISforum) for the post of Rubber Duck replica.

    It was made quite true. The picture of the frame is on the display. Scratch built "Duck" in 24 and the AMT "R" in 25.

    All the best,

    vlad

     

     

     

     

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  2. Hi, Pawel,

    Sounds like you have a progress.

    I haven't the scheme of Superliner though most brake line connections are close to each other around highway R-models.

    Air tanks could have different locations with brake chambers in diff. points due to a kind of suspension and a number of axles.

    I have some shots from my R688 of 1988 with airride.

    Lot of pipes around brakes including park sections mixed with suspension lines.

    Be carefull about this pictures, the truck has too long Russian milege, brake chambers are from KamAZ.

    In theory I have the book about it but in real that one is in Holland now untill my next visit in July.

    Vlad

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  3. Vinny if you like U Models so much then I wonder if you like DM's as much. Take a look at the frame on a DM sometime and you might forget about U models. Just kidding.

    Vlad: Back in the 70's Mack was going to build a factory in Russia but it was shot down for political reasons. How times have changed. Now our presidents give away military

    secrets for rockets to the Chineese. They executed the the Rosenburgs for supposedly giving atomic bomb info to the Russians. Now the Commies in charge would consider them heros. Well anyways enough rambling and back to the truck pictures. Good job Vinny I like the on the R-Model paving trucks. :twothumbsup:

    Never heard owerhere about the Mack project in Russia.

    I don't remember 70's but early 80's were full of newspapers with cartoon pictures of Uncle Sam with money in the hand and atomic rockets aimed to Russia - USSR.

    That's all looks a humor now but I can't belive in a deal of our nations during the Cold War time.

    Vlad

  4. The working size of the seal is the same as the bearing - 1 3/4.

    Outside diametr is 2 1/8 for using with original retainer (it's better)

    or 57.2 mm = 2 1/4 in. for direct fit into a body.

    The depth is 5/16 for use with a retainer or up to 10 mm naked.

    The original seal number is probably too old, it was made of clothes - 88AX23.

    Vlad.

  5. Rob,

    I don't need it faster because of Russian post shipping up to 8 weeks (3-4 is very good).

    I have lots of to do about my project so it's not a matter of time.

    Can pay by PayPal immediately or by a credit card.

    There'll be a shipping cost you'll have to add, any your working time for this story is a value also, no problems.

    So I need two of.

    The adress is Moscow, Russia. I'll send you it full in PM.

    I would like it all,

    Vlad.

    Maybe I have a reason to look for a seal for same place?

  6. I have two steering gears at the moment, both were made in 1945 and always the same excepting the aggregat number.

    The first one (Russian) was full of water and rust.

    The second from the spare ex-French army truck is rust and wear- free.

    Although don't understand the reason of the play. Both have it of equal amount.

    One set of warm and sector is very good so I don't want to machine them.

    I can rebore the hole in the body to fit owersize bearings but not the gear set.

    I have to say Rob, you are very good guy, and I mean not only a help to me but to many others.

    Vlad.

    • Like 1
  7. Rob, always thank you,

    Bearing:

    OD outer cap 54.1 mm - 2.13 In.

    Length (depth) 38 mm - 1.496 in

    Shaft ext.D 44.5 mm - 1.75 in

    Bearing mark says "Terrington".

    Have seen nothing about "Ross" including Parts list and a Manual.

    All the stampes are readable at the picture if you download it and look with a high pixels.

    You can see also "Mack archemoid steering" but no "Ross" :idunno:

    Vlad.

  8. I'm revising the steering gear of my NR 1945.

    The manual and the mark on the gear housing gives me the model of "SG-16"

    I suppose it must be close to some steering of L model, probably LJ.

    Looking ower them I noted the play of the sector shaft.

    Near 0.3 mm or 0.01 inches if you prefere.

    I don't know is this too much though I dont like and want to have it neither.

    The shaft is placed in two bearings of a special kind, with needles inside and the outside cap.

    Strange to me I've seen no wear on the shaft. Bearings are also look well.

    Although I hope it's better to renew them.

    Parts list (of 1942) gives me "Torrington #B-2824" and "Mack 67 AX 122".

    So looking for any ideas of how to get the bearings.

    Vlad.

     

     

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    • Like 1
  9. Have looked on rims.

    They have width owerall 245 mm means 9.645 inches - 9 2/3?

    The spacer is of 85 mm - 3.346 in. - 3 1/3.

    Original tyres were 11.00-24 but I haven't any info of what the rim size is.

    All the manuals I have contein no figures expect of 11.00-24,

    rims owerwiew got me nothing but "Made In U.S.A."

    Vlad.

  10. it amazes me how many of those old western log trucks arent all beat to shit. god some of the woodchucks here in upstate ny would take that think in the woods and it wouldnt come out with a straight piece on it. amazes me better care they took of those old trucks and they are still around. and where they hell did they find 18 5 hole alcoa wheels for that thing? haha. they are worth more than the truck.Matt

    19 5 hole alcoa wheels,

    and well polished.

    Nice colors, nice look.

  11. I trhink about 1 year ago there was a post about new Macks with 24" rubber tube type not tubeless. Most likely still avaible. I had 11:00 24" tube type rubber on a IH Paystar 5000 that I ran in 1980'S. That being said I do not believe I would buy another truck for work with 24" rubber,too expensive and heavy to do tire work on by an old man. They do take the weight well but not high speeds which they were not designed for.There are a few hobby trucks I wanted but passed on because of the 24" rubber. Just my opinion. Vladislav someday when I get to Russia I would like to see your trucks, nice that with all the termoil in the World old trucks are a common denominator. Nice rubber what brand are they for your NR? Thanks Joe D.

    Joe, welcome to Russia!

    My trucks aren't looking good at the moment although I'm working on them.

    The NR originnaly has 11.00-24 but I spent a year looking on them.

    There is hard border taxing that makes used rubber import unable to me.

    So I had to by these new made in China.

    I prefere European or American brands but these I bought looks good.

    NR is not so high speed truck and will operates with no load.

    Vlad.

  12. Rob, thank you for attention.

    My wheel story is too long.

    At the moment I found 2 original alloys and that's all the rest of whole 40 wheels of the four R models of always the same kind imported in Russia.

    That 2 wheels saw alot of mud, sand and salt on roads.

    I started to send by Nr120 and continued with a sandpaper for wood.

    After half an hour working the same area I see deep corrosion in the aluminium, probably near 0,5 mm or more.

    Have spoken about machine cut them for 1 mm, waiting for an answer.

    I begin to seriusely think about buying new wheels, maybe the pair in front for beginning.

    But met the problem by this way also.

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