Vladislav

Good job on the stew!
Like the dogs. The red one, the green one, the tan one and the brown one.

Oh, and you didn't mention how many quarts you gave for having the Santa crew decorating your house.

Happy B-day!

It looks quite good indeed. At least on my mind and on the pictures.

Too sorry to hear.

I always liked to read his posts.

Rest In Peace Seed.

3 hours ago, 67RModel said:

Wow. Air over hydraulic brakes. I have never seen nor heard of that on a Mack. What would be the benefit of doing this? I mean you already have an air system and are using rotochambers to actuate. Why would one decide to actuate a hydraulic master cylinder rather than a slack adjuster? I'm curious.

In my case it looked like the setup was determined by the vendor of the front axle. From pics on Truckpaper I got figured some DMM's had air brakes at the front.

I have that similar setup on my 6x6 DMM chassis. Or more correctly to say, restovers of it.

Exactly as JoeH explained. DMM has hydraulic brakes on the front axle. And that thingy (that old airbrake chamber) used to activate the master cylinder for sypplying juice to the calipers.

These were used still in 40's. Or particulary I have such ones on my 1945 NR-model.

But looks like they could be installed on the most any CRD92/93 series carriers.

Look nice but the spot they're at is difficult to see when in a truck.

Like to the post and sad to your knees at the same time. Wish you well.

There was a topic a long while back (10 years or so) with a guy having a E9 and showing oily or tar spot over one of the exhaust ports on one of the heads. Or maybe over a few of them. As I remember the conclusion of the crowd was too long idle could make that effect and the excessive oil (unburned fuel) would go off after some good run.

If no satisfection with such cheer up I would bench test injectors and injection angle and also look for engine oil consumption in some long time frame. 

A rare bird definitely.

Also interesting camera work in this video.

T2060, T2070 and T2080 all had 0.60 overdrive in the main box. 0.71 is for T2090.

6 speed single stick model was T2060A. Mack engeneers made gears in the main box narrower and could suit 6 in there instead of the common 5. Revers was also in its place in the main box. OD was 0.714.

There's also similar model in T300 series but the one I'm familiar with is even T308 eight speed. Possibly 6 and 7-speed versions also existed.

That bracket you have on your truck is almost correct base for the bulldog mascote. Stock part for the MH-model. You just bought a wrong dog as other members mentioned above.

I saw such the base for sale on Ebay a couple years ago and thought I saved its pic on my hard drive. Rifled through it yesterday trying to answer your question but haven't found any. And now I see you added a photo of what you have on your truck and that's exactly what I have on my MH. 

If using for hobby the bogie could be moved into its original location with not much labour and the look of the truck would be even more attractive. But definitely more shaky, especially with those heavy rears. Just my thoughts or maybe my general approach 

Yes, wondering and figuring is the way to new. If the mankind were only duplicating we would still use wariations of stones, not trucks, smartphones etc.

One more aspect floated up in my mind when I typed the above yesterday was the angle the hood sides go from the cowl to the nose. The cowl width is the same and the nose area is too probably equal wide between R600 and R700. If so the angle between hood sides of R700 is sharper. And if you add extension at the cowl its sides should be parallel, not the same surface as the R600 hood side. I just didn't type that originally, there was enogh for that post.  

Such a stretch could be done for sure but wouldn't be an easy deal. Original design of R-model hoods is quite complex. There's an outer shell of what you see from the outside and an inner one. The inner shell conteins the central portion and side walls which isolate the engine bay and form the wheel arches. At the factory they make two shells separately and than glue one into the other. The inner shell has reinforcement bends so when it's in place they become to be tubular channels you can see from the down below.

Telling that you would not only need to add skin to your hood but also perform (actually form) reinforcement channels longer to the cowl end. You sure wouldn't like the seam to crack down in the future so the edge of the existing hood where you add must be ground to as sharp corner as possible to allow overlap of 2 inches or so. Another problem is achieving suitable flatness of the top surface and sides which would require perfect fit of the additional section or (my guess) lots and lots of filler and sanding. 

It's difficult to estimate possible expenses of such a job in your situation but if it would be $2-3K I wouldn't surprize.

Personally I have never done such stretch but have experience of extensive fixing of two R600 hoods. The 2nd one was done in this passed summer by a guy I hired for. He's a body/paint guy so knew the deal in general. Overall it took him 3-4 weeks of grinding/glueing up and I bought 30 kg of epoxy resin, 15 kg of hardener and 15 kg of glass fiber stock. Being honest I have a couple of kilo's rest and uncount amount of dust taken off a vacuum cleaner. He ended up with what I wanted but we haven't it primered and filled so far. And I hope we will in the next summer...

Vlad

Now I have me scratching my head...

Looks like it's time to bet on where's easier to ship parts to - Russia or Iran??... 

These are great!

Really cool to learn they're going to be avalible.

Pretty sure will sell like hot cakes.

Thanks, found.

A motherlode for true.

Don't they offer such a magic crystal for 1980-1991 trucks?

Superliners of the 1st and 2nd generations had different style of engine mounts (and actually almost different chassis style at all). Your truck is 1983 so its chassis is identical to WS Cruiseliner. 

I don't say those insulators you found are wrong ones for sure. Don't remember the correct style at the moment. Just wanted to let you know to put double care on the choice since your truck is pre-85.

33 minutes ago, JoeH said:

What's the application? Tell us more about these 30-40% grades. considering 45% is halfway to straight up, I have to question the accuracy of the grades.  Is this once in a while to come out of the pit at a quarry?

A half way to straight up is 100%. Or 45 degree. 45% means elevation of 45 feet (or meter) achieved by passing 100 feet (or meter) horizontally. You drive 100 feet and get 45 feet higher.

Anyway 30-40% grade is an extreme figure for a road vehicle. And if the pavement would turn out slicky no way to hold the rig either with gas/clutch or brakes.