Vladislav

Almost as Terry said above. You set end play for both main and compound countershafts together. Of how to identify a tranny the way could be opening the top covers (which worth to do anyway before anything else) and figure it's duplex or triplex and direct or over just by looking at the gears. 

5 hours ago, mowerman said:

As far as the spiders, I am going to pull them all apart anyway for seal replacement and grease and inspection  I found a brand new chrome ceiling fan in my workshop last weekend while I was looking for something else it’s still in my box. I have no idea where it came from but I’ll go and put it in. I think it’ll be a nice touch not sure if I’m gonna put it on a dashboard or ceiling 

If so look for a shop which could blast and paint one or two spiders at a time for you. They're heavy so easier to not work out all the lot at once. Also might worth looking for a "seasonal worker" who could come to your place once in a week, for example on Saturday and do some jobs like taking a hub off, washing it and prepping for further make up.

Hi,

If I'm not wrong the dampener and the pulley are similar to what was used on Thermodyne (OHV) Mack gassers, such as EP, EY and maybe others. Actually may also depend on which kind of a truck your dampener belonds to. Mine is off a military NR-model. I expect the fitting to the crankshaft and pulley offset are similar but not sure on the OD and the actual design. And if I'm not wrong ED519 crankshaft is intercheangeable (similar) to EP510 gasser.

Vlad

On 10/12/2023 at 11:02 PM, other dog said:

Thanks Vlad, this lady was driving the orange Big Horn!

Wow! Impressive fact! Sure adds "colorfulness" to the event

Thanks the great for the pics!

Looks like the day was really nice before it started raining. The line up of Big Horns is impressive. Aside of them there were plenty of pleasure to see trucks.

Bob, honestly I wouldn't buy new tyres before blast/paint rims and hubs. Or at least figure the exact plan on how to do that and when. If you're with Budds it's easier but if there are spokes (as I expect for a DM and your taste) you would probably need a media blast crue to dirt up your yard. Or drive the truck to different place for and keep it there on stands for the time the hubs are cleaned and painted. Doing that way you better have new tyres already fitted on new/repainted rims though to throw them on the truck right there. So tyres may be seen of reason to purchase earlier indeed. But anyway keeping them in mind makes sence keeping in mind all the wheel story together.

Another option is removing hubs and blast/paint them separately. This is the way I do. But you would need to remove all bearings, wash them, inspect, and if they're good just new seals would be on the list. You would also need washing through the bearing cavits (otherwise you'd do that anyway to remove grease with sand) or fabricate solid steel covers (by a lathe?) and cover the inside of the hubs with them using sealer. So the truck needs to be kept on stands for all the time. 

Ok, there's one more option. Purchasing of a spare set of hubs to play with them keeping the truck on its own. Recently I like that approach too but aside of need of additional iron in the yard you get risk of miss matching bearings or other mating moments using parts from aside.

On 9/17/2023 at 1:21 AM, mowerman said:

Boy, whoever recommended double coins, tires  thanks again I found some for 183 apiece. Hell you can’t beat that with a stick. I am going to start with four of them for now. I really don’t even need all 8  drive tires since it’s not going to be any weight on it I don’t need the inner’s right now. Just kind of looks funny.

If you're going to purchase any Chinese tyres I would advice you to get all 8 in one time. Or just do other way and buy 2 steers. They Double Coins, Triangles, Westlakes and Aeoluses are taking place at the local market for more a decade to the moment. People drive them there and here and I haven't heard any really bad feedbacks about them. But what I have found is if a certain producent/brand sells a certain model with a certain thread style (which is usually a copy of a certain classic Michelin, Bridgestone etc thread pattern) some years later you find out that particular model is out of production. Or even the brand completely. I bought a set of 11R24,5 Aeolus drives (and 2 steers) for the R-model in 2013. They're sure still like new on the truck because I have driven no more that 3000 km since. But once had damaged a sidewall of one of the drives (luckily just a lil bit) and thought of to look for options for purchasing a spare. Nothing! That model was already out of stock and no other new tyres of the similar pattern avalible. 

So any turn out on the story?

Was the truck purchased and would we see new pics of a LT Mack in the gallery? 

For the era it could be nearly 8 or 9 or so. Something like BX75-1001.

Front rails area is the most making sence place to check out.

What did you do to the rig? Put newer truck axles? Or any other ones?

What size of tyres did you fit? Are those truck tyres or car tyres?

Vlad

I would grab 'em but I'm afraid shipping would be a PITA nowadays.

That's not Lanova. Lanova's distingueshing feature is injectors located at the side of the head. The reason was pre-chambers were fitted right opposite for the fuel injected stream to go straight into the pre-chamber's incoming channel. So you could see side mounted injectors at one side of a head and pre-chamber locking brackets at the other. Telling this I conclude that engine above is a kind of Thermodyne and later than early 50's. And that's not Buda since those early Buda's were Buda-Lanova's.

Damn interesting unit shown in the pics indeed. Single head, artificial exhaust manifold... Would be cool to figure out the truth on its model and design features. 

Welcome to the forum!

That nice little baby definitely needs a good bit of elbow grese!

Pre-planning and portioning efforts is the way to go.

Enjoy the project!

Vlad

She's getting into a nice shape! Keep on going!

Nice looking toy!

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the purchase!

Vlad

And you can not put a E9 in R600 chassis. At least by factory way. Superliner has longer hood (and different shape of the front portion of the frame rails). Mack produced R700 and RS/RL700 models with longer hoods and offered those with V8's. No E9 options were offered there but the reason was the production years. 

Looks like I'm late to the party. Had a few busy days and they're supposed to follow.

That crack in the liner could be made by combustion pressure applied to the liner wall which was not completely against the bore surface. Repair liners are made of larger OD which means you bore the bores to larger ID. Which could be understood as the bores get damage getting out of shape. When I measured bores of my E6 block all 6 were slightly out of round and all were larger left to right in the block than front to rear. Seemed like the block was "pulled out" by pistons forced by connecting rods when they're in leaned position. My block was within the tolerances and that's for a hooby truck so no much worry. But if I were going to make money with it I'd be a machine shop customer having a set of oversized liners in a trunk.

Speaking the counterbores Mack recommends a hand tool which is actually a circle cutter you install on the deck and scratch the existing counterbore turning the cutter by hand. Than what it's of even depth but deeper than specified you add shims (if I'm not wrong).

So is that a big SAE (#1?) housing with a round adapting plate?

1. E6 2V and E6 4V have the same liners. They're of dry style, relatively easy to replave. Pull old ones with a puller (or just by a piston as you saw), than clean the bore through, put new liners in a fridge overnight, apply some oil on the bore wall and just slide new liner in by hand. May be put at a room temperature too but some hitting with a wooden block is needed. So better to freeze up. Worth to point out those liners were produced of standard size and a few stages over for cases you need to bore the block. They have an index in the end of the part# to determine the size so pay attention to what you currently have. Liners could be purchased from PAI parts, good quality and not expensive. Sure attention to the existing bores in the block is needed. Could be cracks, out of rounds etc. 

2. E6 2V and E6 4V cylinder head gasket sets are identical (not E7 though). At least by the part #. If they're for 20 stud heads.

3. E6 and E7 blocks seem identical over the size of their lower portion. The oil pans (and the gaskets) are identical. About the same for the front cover. E6 covers were both stamped steel and cast aluminium. E7's were all alu if I'm not wrong. There were differences on the style of the place the front cranck seal fits (different seal OD's), those mentioned above holes for the pointer and a few others. But as far as I figured basic casting for cast alu front cover for both E6 and E7 was identical. So possibility of swapping front mount setup from one engine to the other seems positive.

This is mostly all I can tell on the subject. I'm not much in rebuild of Mack engines. But have some involvement into so kept my eye for info related.

Vlad

5 hours ago, mowerman said:

 I don’t have to switch to work clothes yes,the more I grind the more I find … god dang just this nose is going to be quite the project, my brother… bob

Seems to be very true. But on the other hand the hood is going to be a 1/3 of the whole truck's look. Another 1/3 is the wheels 

5 hours ago, mowerman said:

Sorry I missed this one. There is actually enough on the outside to grab onto but after spraying them numerous times they still will not budge.

There's a good practice to spray potential spots once in a week during a couple of months or more before you get to the spot. But this way you need to pre-figure points of your activities. When pre-plan a job walk over a rig and look crytically on what you're going to part out in the future and which points would go being a PITA. Starting from that moment you may spray them with liquid wrench or even ATF if the while ahead seems long. Than on a certain lazy day you take a wrench and try loosing each of them. Those which go get fresh portion of ATF (to be oiled in the threads) and slightly tightened back on if needed. Those which don't make you keeping them in mind for additional job time and fight.

Cutting off a portion of the fiberglass to remove the old plate and implant a new one (sure made of SS to accompany SS bolts in the future) wouldn't be an easy deal since you'd need the edges of the cut smoothed out for new material to glue up over lagre area (the larger the better). The catch gets stress keeping the hood in place so the repaired area must be guaranteedy tough.

I would drill them through with a smaller bit for first and try tapping new threads. Not much of a deal to try. If no good results just drill through and fit nuts with washers. Those same latch catches on my R-model hood were fitted by bolts went through with nuts at the inner side originally. 

Nice looking animal.

The front wheels have American bolt pattern so at least the front axle is not Renault. Hopefully the rest of the chassis isn't too. Would be interesting to learn more on how this truck is designed.