Vladislav

Many thanks for the story details and fantastic scenaries!

Great to hear you have that done with your dad. Pretty sure a lot of to talk about during long hours of driving. The Grand Canyon photo's take the breath away. And just cry "you should go there look that yourself!". Maybe some year, some day... 

The only thing I haven't figured out is what were those bistits you've got at breakfast in Winfall? Ok, I see, that wasn't Winfall. So never mind. 

Welcome to the forum!

As many guys on here used to say in such cases, we all like pictures!

They seem worth to be posted for another reason though to represent a look of your drive axles. If they're Mack you'd hear advices on diff lock options. But they may be found of a different vendor.

The same with the chassis. US-produced CH-model has straight rails of constant section front to rear. At the same time the most Macks produced in Australia (at least earlier models including R's) were built on R-model style frames. Their distinguished features were decline of the rail section to the front and spread over the engine bay. I don't know which style of chassis Quantums were built on, there may be a Renault frame found too.

Speaking manuals I doubt finding one for a specific Aussie model would be an easy deal. On my mind and from where I'm sitting the best chances you have is to check out folks (ok, blokes) in your neck of the woods. Going worldy you'd find a Renault truck manual (with Renault chassis and engine) and one for Mack E7 engine. The latter may resolve many of your potential issues and can be purchased from ebay or other common sources. 

Vlad

R-model roof vent fits in a rubber gasket that's true. But that vent is not similar to the ones in a MH cab sides. Larger base with smaller door.

RD and MH vents have nothing in common. MH ones fit in rubber gasket, as a windscreen. RD has stamping in the body panel with door and a hinge bolted onto. Ok, RD didn't have door vents at all. Only vent windows in there. And the one I mentioned in the LH cowl area.

Worth to investigate vents used in CH or CL sleepers, they seem having more chances to be similar by the era the trucks were produced.

1D may mean (or means?) one drive axle. Having no D in the end I guess it's (originaly was) a gasser. Diesel VINs had D in the end. 178th unit built of the particular model (LTLT-? or maybe just LT1D-?). Mack started a serie from 1001. 

BTW single axle LT seems as a rare beast.

Those who're not going/able to attend are eager to see some pics  ̷f̷r̷o̷m̷ ̷W̷i̷n̷f̷a̷l̷l̷ ̷n̷e̷i̷g̷h̷b̷o̷u̷r̷h̷o̷o̷d̷  from the showgrounds. Mack trucks and fellow BMT member faces are strongly appretiated.

L-model sheet metal is scarce. Worth to make a deal if the condition is nice indeed.

Good luck and keep us posted!

On 8/9/2023 at 2:15 AM, mowerman said:

Oh, by the way,  I take all kinds of vitamins morning and night

List the list!

I might be interested in the best options helping provide fixing of a fiberglass hood of an R-model. Oh, my mistake, DM is another story!

Yup, as said above! 

You truck should have chassis number stamped onto the LH frame rail nearly above the front axle beam. May be closer to the upper edge of the rail but may vary. At least the most L-models have that that way. Should be something like LT1D-1001 or LTSW-1002. 

Yes, they have plenty of things overthere, I saw that in person. But that's also a place you may stand with your hands in pockets looking over the shelves 

Still late Friday evening overhere. Ok, early night. Ok, 5 minutes to midnight 

Interesting, thanks for the info shared.

I haven't put my nose into 80's years' Mack radiator so far. Was going to but could stop myself from one more deal having many others unfinished. My R-model which I drive from time to time (about once in two years recently) has that same sensor in the upper tank and red lamp on the dash lights on with a mark "shut off the engine" below it. The previouse owner told that's because of low coolant level. And I still haven't add any and even looked into during already 11 years I own the truck. 

The temp gauge readings are Ok though.

16 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Vlad I think the heat from the motor causes most of the issues, all the different materials are heating and cooling at different rates, this causes the paint to crack

A lot might have to do were the truck operates and how long it operates for 

A hour driving off to a truck show as compared to 12 hours at -40° c or +40° c

 

Anyway it's a few weeks until that stage is reached 

 

Paul 

Paul, that makes sence for sure. 

The original hoods on my R's had very thick foam insulation glued to the inner side at the top and the sides. No less than 30-35mm (1-1/4") thick. That may help lowering down the heat affect to the fiberglass. I doubt many old trucks still keep that insulation in place and also don't know how your truck was outfitted from the factory. 

17 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

 

I wonder if when pain time starts, at the primer stage anything and onwards if it would help with cracking etc

On my mind there's a reason to apply a coat of epoxy primer over the repaired areas. It would harden the surface under the final coats preventing show up of uneveness of dencity and flexibility from down below. Also cracks should be opened up and for their full depth in perfect cases. With edges more parallel to the outer surface than perpendicular. This kind of job may be very time consuming. And the final result may vary depending on the amount of sweet and hours invested. And dust breathed in. 

20 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

one of my Favorite Pen-Pal's asked me to help out..  Asked me to post a picture for him..  I bet Ya'll will reckognize it..  Jojo

Soooo.... Are those blue spots were made by a grinder? Or by the age??

She's looking great!

A pleasure to see!

3 hours ago, other dog said:

It has a four speed in it, but I couldn't get up enough speed to push start it. The parking lot was too flat, I only managed to get it from one parking spot to the next. I thought maybe that might at least unstick the starter, but it didn't. Neither did tapping it with a hammer. Come to think of it, I better check to see if the engine locked up, maybe the starter is good. But the starter acted like it was hanging up once before though, then it finally started, and it hasn't happened since, until yesterday.

I see you didn't surrender without a fight. Self fixing is not only a money save but a huge time save in many cases. Not always though and we can't go beyound our possibilities.

I guess the issue was the starter. Or even just the control power supply to it. If the engine was stuck and the starter was trying to force it to spin you would hear a click and observe extreme drop of voltage in the instrumen cluster. 

2 hours ago, other dog said:

That's what I do on the computer, I always smallerize the pictures before I post them, but I don't know how to do it on the phone, or if you can. I can crop them, but they still seem to be just as big. I kind of hate to delete pictures too, but when it's a picture of a goat that I posted in 2014 I figure nobody is going to look at it now anyway, so off it goes. The only ones I haven't been deleting are the "a girl in a car" pictures 😂.

Good point, girls are more worthy than goats in the most cases.

I found a way to smallarize pics on the phone when really needed that. I was posting from my trip the recent time having no computer handy. What I did was sending a pic via Whatsapp to myself. Found that possible, probably had to make a contact in the phonebook with my own number, don't remember already. Than further after recieving overwhatsapped images I had to save them in a folder in a gallery since they didn't go to "Whatsapp images" for some reason. Than had them taken from that folder and uploaded on the site. 

They didn't go in a certain preferred size I would like to but became being something like 300Kb. Pretty reasonable in relation to 6-7Mb my (crazy or stupid?) phone uses to make.

Sounds very promising. All the community is highly intrigued!

BTW have you collected the grille opening trim? It was avalible from PAI, at least recently.

Sounds (and looks) good. There were also Western Contractor style hoods, with a different grill, actually a net. As I recall there was a talk of they were shorter.

I have done a bit more complicated job in the past. I didn't want to rest my old posts with illustrations removed completely. But got to the limit on the attachments. So I copied those files on my computer, re-sized down to some tiny size (50-100kb) and uploaded them back deleting the originals. But I didn't post really great amount of pics during the times.

Starting from that point I try upload already resized images. But can't smallarize pics in a phone, probably need some software I don't have.

Sorry for the starter fail. I guess the truck is automatic. Could be push started if it's a stick. And even driven for a few days that way just by parking on a grade.

Also nice to see the progress over the new place. The BBQ shed looks well built. And I really like the squirrel. It's seldom to see one with a water hose.

P. S.

Inner rails are 1/4" thick, each one. Same thick as the main rails in many cases. 1/8" is too thin for that application.