Geoff Weeks

Ok, I've spent some times in my Delco books. The reman for the '59-'68 BD 282 or 308, which the successor to the BLD 269. is 323-637 It crosses to this: https://www.filterspro.com/WILSON-91-01-3698_p_1813765.html Which looks possible, but with the top mounted solenoid, wouldn't likely clear the manifold. Might be able to flip the end housing so the solenoid is on the bottom. Looking at it better, the the end is not rotatable, but I also noticed the solenoid would be mounted 90 deg from the top, facing the fender. It would be a gamble, I am not sure it would work. But as close as I have come. The '59-'68 Delco book shows the re-man starter for the BD 282 or 308, the successor to the BLD 269, same basic engine casting. is 323-637 which is obsolete but crosses to this:

I had a thought, or may be delirium. One of my 269's came with an early Delco gear reduction starter for the RED series big six on it. I remembered I had a later 12 volt starter from a RD 406 (the newer version of the RED engine) but alas, they were not the same, The RD used the SAE even spaced three bolt mount. It does have a removable (and indexable) nose cone on it, so if the right nose could be found, it might just work. The RED starter has the three bolt mount but not SAE pattern. If you want the RD starter to play around with it is yours for the asking. However, the last time someone thought they wanted it, decided against it when they found out how much shipping would be. It was about 1/2 dozen years ago and at that time it was close to $100 to ship.

Interesting video of a shop making repairs. Some are unique to electric (battery repair) but some are common (bearings and seals). Some different skills and some in common with IC vehicles.

I don't see an electric semi tractor as a viable in most situations. Yard spotter, is one where it might work well. The best fit for any electric is where it returns "home" everyday and can be recharged in off peak hours. That fits an awful lot of vehicle use, but not all. Charging mid trip doesn't make sense unless it can be done when people are sleeping or other break (loading/ un loading). Shuttling between plants where there is enough distance or down time to recharge, ok. Long haul irregular route, I just don't see it working out. Trying to "make something work" where it is not a good fit, is going make it much harder to sell where it is a good fit. 99% of my car travel could be done with an electric with under 100 mile range, 99.9999% could be done with an electric with 250-300 mile range. Sure, you can focus on the less than 1% of the time that it is not a good fit. but having a vehicle that is only needed for 1% or less doesn't make sense. I like to put it this way. My 1942 K-7 could do everything, tow a semi trailer, go get groceries, and go on long trips, but I'd be foolish to use it for all those things. My Saab turbo is a nice road car, but I'd be foolish to tow a trailer of any kind with it. An electric to do 99% of the trips and recharge at night at home sounds good to me, even if it will not fit all my needs in one vehicle. As soon as I can lay my hands on one cheap enough, I likely will.

Yeah, that is true, just like a conventional IC vehicle, if something goes wrong with the propulsion system, you have to get a tow! Many vehicles it is impossible to do much on the side of the road. Unless you drive something from the 1970's or earlier, most problems are going to be buried and you are going to need space to work and likely a lift. If you want to compare vehicles most people are driving, you'll find most are going to require a tow if they stop moving, regardless of how they are powered. Any vehicle that catches fire is going to be a total in very short time. I have fixed ones that had a small electrical fire (internal combustion cars) and I can say, if you don't have it out in about 60 sec, it is a total loss. esp true with modern vehicle no matter how they are powered. People get hysterical about car fires but the fire dept has the right priority, prevent it from spreading! The vehicle is going to be a loss anyway.

"wrong" oil will not harm it, may leak, that is about all. At least in the short run, might cause more wear if it was in a working truck. Not something that isn't working every day. 10w -30 or 10w 40 is what it calls for.

Also, something rattled loose in the back of my brain, that they use 10W-40 for oil, not ATF or PS fluid.

Found this: http://www.hydrosteer.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Sheppard-Manual-92-Series.pdf Low pressure is under 1300, High pressure 2000, so I wasn't too far off.

Manual was no help. The section on the Sheppard 39 just says to adjust the steering relief to 400 PSI below relief on the pump. The section on the pump says 'Relief set by the factory for the truck and axle fitted, no adjustment possible" Manual did confirm that the 39 was a "low pressure" box, but without going more into it. My guess you'd be ok with a setting of around 1000Psi.

Paul, I'd have to search through some manuals, but the early Sheppard boxes run a much lower pressure than modern boxes do. They were designed for the old vane type pumps, and will "pop" if hooked to a modern pump with a 2000 psi or something relief. My mind is like a steel sieve, I remember that the pressure is low, but not what it should be. The two digit boxes (29,39) were low and the three digit boxes were high pressure (292, 392 M100 etc). I don't know what has been checked, or even if it is a factory install, I am just responding to the info provided. Lots to look into, can't assume it is as it left the line all those years ago. I think I remember him saying there was play in the pitman shaft.

Permissible play for P/S measured at the wheel with engine running varies from 4 1/2" for a 16" wheel up to 5 3/4" for a 22" wheel. These are not ideal reading but OOS criteria. Any way you cut it 7" is a problem.

Very true I assumed (always bad) that because he said "steering wheel play" that he checked, and it was play between the input and output shaft of the box. I've seen my share of oblong holes attaching the box to the frame, whole box is moving. Lots to check if not the box. And as I said, the old 39 box had lots of play when no oil was circulating, it is even in the CVSA book that you have to check play with the engine running, although most DOT cops don't know it. Later boxes use a different valveing system, and on those the play is about the same running or not.

What brand air starter? Startmaster didn't have as good a rep as Ingersoll Rand. I used ASC out of Tx for my air start parts. That being said, both my starters come out of Roadway trucks (so likely got a lot of use) and I never need to touch the motors. Tank check valves, yes and one relay valve over the decades I had them. I had the lube injector tied to the fuel return on the engine, so everytime the motor was activated they got a shot of diesel in the air. I liked I-R relay valves better than Sealco, had less problem with them. You might be able to fit a 392 box, but I have no info on that. Might contact Straight Line steering out of Calif and see if they have any ideas, been in the business for ever, and may have run across what you have.

If you look close, you can see the number cast in just above the pitman shaft (upside down in the photo) the exact model should be stamped on the box behind the Pitman arm, There are a bunch of bolt holes and hopefully some number/letters stamped there, Or at least they were on my 392 boxes. Kind of academic as parts are NLA. Some 392 parts MAY fit, like pitman shaft bushing, but I can't say for sure. Seal kits are different to my knowledge on the higher pressure boxes 392 etc.

Here are some pic's. It looks similar to the 392 box that was the next generation Shepard box. The early ones run low pressure, I don't remember the max it may be as low as 1200 psi. Often driven with belt drive vane pumps.

If it is a Shepard from the 60's it will be a low pressure system, Likely a "39" box. A picture would be a big help. These old boxes will have a LOT of play with the engine off, but should have less with the engine running. It has to do with valveing built into the box. Now the bad news No parts available for the older boxes. I'll see if I can post a picture of a 39 Shepard.

Well, thankyou! Now that I am retired, I have a little more time, and I can put it to better use helping others (I hope anyway).

I'll see if I am any good at posting pictures. This is a FW2000 or Fleetmaster. I sold my trucks with FW3500 so don't have a picture to show. The tiny writing on the 1st pic says one pin (FW3500 would have an identical pin on the other side also), and on the 2nd pin not threaded, no nut.

I am going off your picture you posted. There is a 2 jaw types that looks similar, It has 2 jaws and a H bar that drops down and prevents the jaws from opening is the FW3500. You can tell them apart the FW3500 has a rod that comes out the front of the 5th wheel with an adjusting nut and rubber washer on the outside end. The FW2000 has a rod and spring (like the 3500) but the end isn't threaded and is not used to adjust the lock. The other give away is the 3500 has two large pins that come out the top of the 5th wheel the 2000 just has one. I can only see one in the picture you posted.

Vlad, My eyes aren't the greatest, but it looks like the FW2000 (which I remember being called the "Fleetmaster"" 5th wheel. The center plunger gets pushed forward by the pin entering the lock, the forward motion moves a piece via gear teeth that swings behind the pin, then a lock slide behind the swiveling piece to lock it in place. On that type there will be one big pin that the swinging part pivots on. You remove the cottter pin and the main pin comes out the top. Start by getting the bolts to loosen on the mechanism. That is going to be the hardest part, not to snap them off. There are two from the bottom, and the lock-stop adjusting screw from the side. No springs need to be caged, like on a brake can, all are easily and safely handled by hand.

I would be slightly concerned that the whole axle has been changed out, and what they show, may not be what you have! My last cabover had none of the original drivetrain, anybody who ordered parts off the VIN will be in a world of hurt.

Are there any "gear shops" around? I wouldn't go to a truck dealer to find the parts, but may be different where you live. You want someone who builds and deals in the assembly, more than a truck dealer. In N-A you can order over the net and get stuff fairly quick.

https://safholland.com/us/en/download-center/document/resource/environment/project1_p/documents/documentationP/Before%20Empolis%20Box%20update/pLiterature/XL-FW134-01_en-US.pdf Rebuild manual right from SKF

Could be FW2000 or FW 3500, the differance is how the lock works, one has two halves that come together, with a H bar to hold them, the other has a casting the swings around the pin from one side only. Looking with my reading glasses, I think it is an FW2000

I think I was mixing up Holland and Fontaine numbers, Looks like XA351 series https://www.doverbrakeinc.com/downloads/catelogs/HOLLAND FIFTH WHEEL QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE.pdf Whoop's didn't read far enough, Likely FW3500 So wasn't that far off