Geoff Weeks

None of this addresses why the parking brake is connected to the trailer air supply control?

yes it does, look at the last post on the previous page, straight from Bendix air brake manual.

Anti-compounding

Idk? This is one of those times when being there as seeing what is what will make all the difference

what is confusing me is saying the line from the dash is coming from the red (trailer supply) valve. Either he is mixed up or the plumbing is mixed up. "Red arrow feeds all the way to the cab through the firewall into the trailer emergency valve in the dash." Otherwise it matches the Bendix diagram I posted on the bottom of the last page.

What is confusing me, is nothing should go straight to the trailer red knob. The red knob outlet should go to the tractor protection valve (TP-3 or similar) on the frame. That said, I have not been around a lot of 3 button trucks, and the few that I was, never had a problem. This is what I think I am seeing in your photo, but you notice it is not connected to the trailer valve

never seen a tach drive that wasn't either 1:1 or .5;1 Either camshaft speed (most four cycle) or 1:1 for two strokes.

Draw a line diagram of how the air lines are run and to which ports and post here so we are all on the same page as to what we are talking about.

Double check passes which ever supply is higher to the outlet, without allowing the higher inlet pressure to pass to the lower (or no) pressure inlet port. The thing with 5 lines going to it is a relay. the two lines closest to the frame, parallel to the frame should be reservoir pressure, the two perpendicular to the frame are brake pressure output and the one on top is signal air pressure.

I had hubs "spray welded" and re-machined before with good results. Often the amount of metal needed make a sleeve difficult and over-boreing effects the seal area also, so sleeve would have to extend out to there.Hub is thin at that area. If you have go with machine work talk to a few machine shops to see what they recommend.

Knock the old race out, buy a new race (cheap) and see if it is snug in the hub, if it is, your good to go, if isn't you have several options.

last picture looks like a double check The other is a relay valve.

I drove a Bristol Lodekka from Columbus, OH to Chicago with a dead alternator! Long slow trip

"Ok you bearing, you have been warned, you better slip on there or I taking to the 50 ton press"😆

Phelan and LaCrosse made a bunch of those. They end up making the rounds of farmers etc as they are too short to haul much that is around today. Couldn't use to to go after a truck, too short, Might work for an antique tractor. Use is limited in today's world is all I am trying to say. That one has tubeless tires at least from what I can see, that is a good thing.

Going way back in my fuzzy memory, some trucks with the ign on and the parking brake set, would activate brake lights. With key off brake light switch is fed from another switch that is always powered. Not 100% 'cause we are talking about a 1/2 century ago. Get the air system fixed 1st then see where the electrical is at. Air systems are not all the same, and can vary widely. Some use relay valves on the spring brakes some do not, some have anti-compounding on the spring brakes, others do not. some use inversion valves on the spring brake side for emergency use of the spring brake when half of a dual air system is down. That is why it is so important to have pictures and label where each line goes. My 9670's didn't have any relay valves on the tractor, anywhere! straight piping from the treadle valve to the Q/R on the axle housing itself.

Is anywhere in that state out of danger?

The M.A.N's I worked on had planetary hubs, but a straight axle, The diff ratio could be a few different ratio's and the planetary hub did the bulk of the reduction. Kept shafting light and small. The British buses were different, the diff was below the plane of the axle shaft and used spur gear reduction up to axle shaft height. The hubs were conventional bearing on spindle type. From what I remember, going back over 40 years, the M.A.N's the trans, and driveshaft all turned in the same direction as the engine. With Planets, the reduction can be had in the same rotation, three sets of gears are used, sun, planet and ring. In spur gears when only 2 gears are used, driver and driven, the rotation is reversed. To keep it the same you need idler gears between the drive and driven. At one point, Rockwell/Meritor was offering the planet hub system to North America, From talking with heavy haul/ superload drivers, they have heat problems when run at high speed all the time, great for pulling but not so great for long haul high speed. Noisy also. The British truck I was talking about used the same trans/rear as the buses, so putting a conventional trans would reverse the ultimate output. From what I remember of the situation , the engine and trans were replaced with a conventional engine/trans set-up and that is why it ended up useless. They would have needed a counter rotation engine or a complete driveline swap from front to back. We did one of the British buses before I worked there with a counter rotation Detroit. I never saw it but heard about it from the other mechanic. To clarify the M.A.N. driveline buses would top out over 50-60 mph, the Heavy-haul operators were talking about heating up at speeds over 70mph coming home empty. I guess it is what you consider high speed.

Thought it was a KW, could be a Pete, mostly seen pics from the rear/tank end.

There was a British truck that used the same system, I don't remember which make, and someone thought "I'd really like more gears" and fitted a Roadranger only to find he had 13 spds in reverse and only 2 going forward!

roll this around your mind a bit: The British bus manual transmissions the output was on the counter-shaft, or the counter-shaft was behind the clutch shaft depending on how you look at it. This made the output "backwards" from the engine rotation! So the diff turned backwards but because there were spur gear final reduction between the diff and the axle shafts, the rotation was reversed once again. Diff was mounted below the axle shafts to keep the floor flat on the lower deck. Really would mess with your mind trying to figure out what was doing what-where!

Given that somebody had been in there before (by the block oil to the bearing) I wouldn't trust anything. If I am the first inside since build, most times the same shims can go back and be correct. A local gear shop I used (past tense) was sending re-bearing pinions with 0 pre-load on the bearings! fortunately I saved the old spacer. They claimed I didn't know what I was talking about, and pre-load would burn out the bearings!

Mechanical Cat's were the worse, they returned very little fuel, Cummins and Detroit 2strokes returned a lot more. I had a problem with my non-draw side not transfering fuel to the draw side. At 1st I thought it was a frozen transfer hose, it was low and might collect moisture, but it turned out the tank breather would ice over and hold vacuum on that side. Open the filler to a large sucking sound and it started to equalize. I never owned anything without the cross-over, so that tells you hold old my equipment was.

As long as the fuel is warm, and the engine working under a load, a diesel does great in the cold. Spark ign engines need the mixture matched for the air density, a diesel doesn't. Well, at least not on the increased density end of the scale.

My 9670 have those coolant loops in the tank, but they are too slow to save you if the truck was shut off for any time. IIRC Arctic Fox was the brand name. I ran Tube and Shell heat exchangers before the filter. Used an air controlled coolant valve on them, so they remained off when the truck engine was running unless needed, opened when engine was shut down and air bled off, so cycled often to prevent sticking. With the combustion heater and/or electric block heater the exchanger had warm (if not hot) coolant right at engine start.