Geoff Weeks

Cummins filter head on my 1942 IHC

Good reason to look up the parts book, and see what is required. I think the parts will be different for Mack rears vs. Eaton but am open to being corrected.

I have the complete manual for the suspension on my DT402, it shows the angle on the axle tubes for various axles, Rockwell and Eaton were something like 2-5 deg angle and Mack was 0, I think that would apply no matter what suspension you use because of the axle design and how the power flows through. From what I remember working on my Hendrickson clone, the axle seats are what sets the angle and the forward axle is different than the rear. I would think Mack top loaders would be the same as the Neway (0 deg angle) my DT 402s are on. Kind of a long way around to say I think they would fit the axle tube but be wrong for the angle needed for Mack top loaders.

I've been cited for expired "permanent" plates, I have been written up for "loose"input on a power divider (while stationary the spec is .065", drive torque forces it out against the taper bearing when running). You can't control what some officer "thinks", all you can do is be on the right side of the statute and bring it before a judge. An officer can and will think what they want, and you can't control when they are wrong. That is why judges exist, An officer is not a judge. As I mentioned, I didn't normally run caps on the steer for exactly the reason as there are plenty of people with a gun and a badge that don't know the rules either. However I was fully prepared to back up my actions with the statutes if needed. I've had to "educate" a few young inspectors about auto slacks not being required before a set date before. P.S., my "education" often starts by "could you print off the regulation so I can be sure I'm doing it right" If he doesn't see he got it wrong, I say "I don't see where I am on the wrong side of this..." Most, but not all, will see they were wrong and make a correction. The above with the expired non-expiring plate took posting a bond and taking it to court where it was thrown out and my money refunded.

404 and 405 are different I'm not sure all the differences but I don't think they bolt into 402 housings. To new for a person like me! As to what ratio, you have to run the math on what you have now, the transmission gearing and start ability on a hill with load, and make a selection that is the best for your needs. You can build DT's to 3.70, I'd have to look but DS might go below that. DT's all take the same "carrier" while DS can use differing carriers for different ratios. I'd rather put my money in getting the ratio right then the preferred maker of the axle. Unless there is a real problem with the design (Rockwell SQHD's were known for weak powerdividers) I just don't see what is to gain by switching makers. Most made in the last few decades are good, some do better in one area, but I can't think of a "bad" diff made in the last few decades. I've run IHC (now sold as Spicer) Rockwell and Eaton, and can't say one is better or worse than the other. When I changed from DS 402's to DT 402's the same driveline bolted right back up. When you switch makers you are going to have to make driveline changes as well adding to the cost for no gain.

If it is the Mack Clone of Hendrickson, I believe all the parts with the exception of the brackets that clamp around the axle housing, and may be torque arms the rest of the parts are the same. The clamping brackets set the shaft angle, on an Eaton it pitched "nose up" and Mack toploaders are level. I found out that Eaton housings are made that DS (single speed) housings will accept DT and DC (two speed and Traction Control) center sections. If your not changing the whole rear suspension, it seams like a lot of work and money to change axles housings for no gain. You can re ratio by just changing center drop out, and if you want more flexibility, add 2 spd centers for less work than whole cut off and change all the parts IMO.

After flushing as best you can, install a coolant filter if the engine doesn't have one. Flushing gets the loose stuff out, the filter removes the stuff that wouldn't come loose at flush time, when it does come loose and starts circulating.

Yes, the brushes are outboard of the rear bearing. While not as common as inboard, there are still some in use today that are like that. The Prestolite series comes to mind. They tend to be units that have ball bearings for the rear bearing. Ones with needle bearings that ride on the shaft have inboard slip rings. Brushed go in holders like this that screw into the rear housing .

In this case the internet is quoting the regs, both federal and state. So far you have not provided anything that shows they were cited for "caps on a steer", just hearsay that it happened. You can look up the CFR and the NJ code for yourself. In both cases the exact regulation has been provided.

https://www.traction.com/en/p/a-c-heater-mack-unit-grey-mei10-9725

Some discharge vents are available for Air Source not sure the same ones that used. I thought you were looking for things like blower, Tx valve, drier and the like to get what you have there working. As far as grill-densor's they don't work very well with R 134a, you would be better served with a modern parallel flow type when running R134a R 134a needs a lot of surface area in the condenser, so many small tubes is better then larger widely spaced tubes. as far as "cabinet" pieces, then no I don't know where to locate new. Universal vent covers can be had by the size of the hole. No idea what the "key hole" opening was for. Red Dot still make replacement systems, or did when my Catalog came out. #10-9725 for gray #10-9726 for black

quick look shows Evans Kysor Red Dot and Signett all made units for the R series. You'll likely need to know which you have for some of the parts.

What parts do you need? Most everything should be available from MEI-Airsource.

better picture of the bearing bore:

My thoughts also, but two of the bearings at least have the same ID so it should be as "simple" as removing the slip-rings and replacing the bearing. I say simple, because I wouldn't attempt without slip-ring replacements being on hand. I think I have found those as well.

Since this post got a fire under my butt to finish off the 95 amp 7 volt unit I have. I found out Leese Neville made a "factor update" kit to put silicon diodes in the older units. Made to update the selenium rectifier units. I found one N.O.S. that I have coming, should be here Monday and I'll try to remember to take pictures. From what I could see of it, you get a new rear housing and a cover with the diodes, you remove the three phase taps and replace with a similar terminal block with +, field, and - being the output and input. I'm not entirely sure it will be a direct fit to mine, as I guess, the style alternator could have 3 different rear bearings and this kit fits only one. I am sure there will be a way to either swap bearings or adapt to use the bearing I have. It said 6 volt to 95 amp (mine is rated at this I think) and 12 volt to 65 amp. Not sure why that would be, as most diodes only care about current and PIV. Cost way more than doing it yourself, and not worth the cost on a practical matter, but will be going on a "period" truck and I didn't want it to look "hacked".

I went the other way and had a rim from 1947 on my '83 cabover for a while. If it was sound, I ran it. I've seen some much newer rims I wouldn't touch.

It is very common misconception, and one reason I avoided running caps on steer, because the confusion extends to some DOT inspectors. I at one time, had a paper that addressed that for inspectors that I carried with the truck. Police can write a ticket for anything, that doesn't make it true or correct! To be honest, I only had caps on the steer for one trip. The new steer tires didn't come in and I had to make a run. Took it from the midwest to the west coast and back with caps on the steer. When I got back the new steer tire had come in the the caps were rotated to the drives. The caps in the above tread design came in two depths, one for trailer shallow, and one for all other positions. Mine were "deep" tread.

My bad, I forgot I changed capper, when I moved Michelin XZE tread. Tire is a 10Rx20

You can get caps in many tread designs. I used to get them in "goodyear 159" type rib tread, that I ran in all positions. I didn't run "lugs" on the drives. If I remember I'll take a picture on the brand new caps on the rear of my Marmon with 0 miles. The weight limit on re-grooved only applied to steer position. Drive and trailer could be used to the full weight rating of the tire. Re grooved on steering is limited to somewhere around 4K lbs (I don't remember the exact figure) but for just about all purposes, a re-grooveable tire, would fall above that limit when on a steer axle. I guess maybe my K front axle is under that empty, not sure loaded. The "Pumpkin" likely was putting them on trailers, where they could take 6K each tire.

I find that very hard to believe! Show me in writing where your insurance company says that! J.C. has posted the federal regs straight from the book, N.J. couldn't have restrictions that the feds don't and receive hiway funds. It is why STAA rules are in place that standardize loads and equipment nation wide for trucks. Regrooved tires is another story. they are illegal over a set weight. Show me the citation or it is just another truckers story! "I heard" but didn't happen to me". There are plenty of reasons why a truck could be "downed" and need things changed on the front axle, and I can see a guy not wanting to admit to poor maintenance and make up a story about caps, but I would have to see it in writing to believe it. It is also possible the inspector doesn't know his job, but that should be sorted out in court.

Paul, I would order those tires you posted. The Mfg own website lists them as TT or tube type.

If you look at the regulation in the "green book" or the stuff J.C posted doesn't make a distinction between school buses and other buses. In my Green Book of the Federal Regulation, it uses the term "Passenger Carrying Vehicle.

Not exactly, the spokes force the rim out and that is countered by the solid lock ring, holding it from expanding. To dismount, you have to remove deflate (or deflate and remove) break the bead, place on a block near the split, then you put a rim tool into the slot, and pry the rim in under itself, pealing it away from the tire. When mounting, the safest is to air up after mounting to the spoke, the spoke will expand the rim, bringing the ends into alignment and holding until air pressure can hold it. I have a bunch on my K's, I still prefer split lock ring style, but I restored a bunch and mounted tires on. It was hard to find lock-ring style in narrow enough width.

That is an extremely common one and many police inspectors get it wrong. It was something at the CVSA class the instructor harped on. It only applies to buses. The old Goodyear rim that splits along the valve stem slot is another rim that most young inspectors get wrong. The claim the rim is cracked all the way through! Ok, what is holding then?