Geoff Weeks

The big "green" line closest to the camera should be supply. The 3/8" line near the top should be signal. It would appear the valve has 4 outlet ports, two on the side and 2 on the bottom. In the picture one of the bottom ports is plugged and it looks like the line I asked about goes into the other bottom outlet port.

In the pic, there is one line that appears to be hooked to the outlet of the relay that is not connected to a ABS modulating valve. Where does that one go?

I thought of asking, but a test of the output lines would give a good indication. Not being 100% sure of what the valve is hooked to, knowing when it leaks needs to know how it is used. K.I.S.S., if air is leaking back through the output, how the valve is used, is not important, it isn't the problem.

I think the two valves are more or less the same. The one with the solenoid on the top cover allows it to be used with traction control, the other is ABS only, as it requires treadle valve pressure to operate the relay portion and the ABS actuators are on the outlet. The ABS/traction control version allows the traction control to open the relay valve independent of the treadle valve, then the ABS controllers work and apply brake pressure to the spinning wheel and keeping it from the non spinning. The solenoid valve take tank pressure to operate the relay to "full open" while simultaneously preventing signal pressure back up the treadle valve line and out the exhaust at the treadle. regardless, I'd want to make sure none of the delivery lines are some how feeding air back up to the valve. Any air would vent out the exhaust of that valve giving the impression that the valve is "bad" when in reality it is doing what it is supposed to, vent any pressure from the brake lines when not called for by either the treadle valve or the traction control solenoid.

Don't think it is,there is an electrical connection on the top from what I can see. Needs to be better I D to be sure. Looks an awful lot like a traction valve. I could be wrong.

Hard to say for sure, but looks like this is the valve. Ad for picture ID only. https://www.ebay.com/itm/305180616028 Parts breakdown and procedure: BW2598.pdf

1st order of business is to make sure it is the valve that is bad. Remove the outlet hoses/piping and see if it stops leaking and air is coming back up a line from a defective brake chamber. Far better to find that out now, not after you have spent the $600 and wrestled it out of there.

I would try that 4.10 before changing anything. 4.10 with .73 OD on 20" rubber is where I ended up, and liked it a whole lot better than the same with 3.90.

unfortunately, there are plenty of trucks being driven by people who shouldn't have been given a CDL, and there background has nothing to due with it.

I got a simple question for y'all, would you feel better if he was a citizen? "cause I've seen plenty do that, and get lucky and not kill someone, including myself as I had to dive for the shoulder on I-55 when someone pulled a U turn in front of me, What is of issue the the quality of people with CDL's much more then where they come from. I've lost count of the stupid moves I've seen in my time on the road, from every state, there is no exception to the stupidity I have witnessed. It is all done by someone who was issued a CDL by some state authority. The big issue and tragedy was the driving actions, not where the driver is from. He got what he deserved in prison and expulsion, but what causes is the action behind the wheel not being from somewhere else.

try Stangle bro. Fullerton, Pa.

I think there was even a 17" at one time. I know we were looking for something to replace the British bus 17" and saw Mack had one, but too much was different. Had to get our clutches air freighted in. Didn't have to do many but they were expensive when we did.

You're thinking commercial use, Larry the only driver and being used the way he is, any clutch should outlast 7 lifetimes. It depends on what can be found, and how much has to be bought, which way would be best. I wouldn't pay a premium for "common" in this case. As I have said before, I ran 14" organic clutches and they outlasted the engine builds. I was doing commercial and some heavy haul with mine.

glaucoma, I believe is measured in pressure in the eyeball. Something best dealt with sooner than later.

I stand corrected. It is like the "no recaps on steer" on trucks, everybody says it, but that isn't what the law says. I thought spring brakes were a requirement on stuff newer than early 60's late 50's. Tru-Stop disk driveshaft brakes would meet the stopping requirements (I was told) but lacked the self-applied function, so they faded away from use.

I would think anything by 1965 would have spring brakes? The requirement came in in the very late 50's IIRC Edit: I am having trouble finding a statute that spells out exactly when "self applied" e brakes were required, so I may be wrong. I have always seen auto applied spring brakes on stuff newer than the 50's.

The newer Eaton's are like that. direct is one gear down-high. A overdrive front box with an underdrive splitter all plumbed for seamless progression (unlike the older underdrives). Gives 2 OD ratios, but not big jumps.

Make sure the oil cups at the starter have oil>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204384693030 I have no idea if 10 tooth is correct for your application or not. But there is a replacement.

With cable drives, the end has to protrude far enough to engage with the corresponding female end in the gear and tach. They also have to have ends of the correct size (this is where adaptors sometimes come in). Too short or too small and you might just get a little bounce. Pull the core (if possible) and stick into the tach and spin it to see if the tach moves, and that it fits the female in the tach. You are there, we are not, so you are going to have to make the assessment. If that looks good, attach to the engine and run it, make sure it is turning the cable.

It still isn't a "bail amount" issue, it is a release/don't release issue. Judges and statute issue. Some cases the judges hands are tied by how the laws are. Amount of bail is only supposed to make the defendant show up in court. No assessed bail and the person shows up, and all is fine, $10m and they don't, it wasn't enough!

The only legal reason for cash bail is to make sure the ACCUSED (but not convicted) show up to trial. It is illegal and immoral to punish someone on a accusation which may or may not be true. The judge at the arraignment can decide, if warranted, for no bail. That is where the decision on release or no release should be made, not on ones ability to pay. Amount of bail has no bearing on if they should be or should not be released.

Also make sure the starter is oiled at the oil cups, if it is dry, it will be slow and you'll have poor engagement

does the drive look like this: If so, make sure the drive spring is good and the shaft is clean. It is "thrown out" by inertia and a helix cut into the shaft. If the starter shaft is grimey and full of gunk, it can't slide fast enough to be in the ring gear before the starter shaft is spinning.

All back together, and running. Still have to replace the capacitor as the voltage is a little low (104 v at 50% load) @60.5 hz. Ran it for 6 hrs today to "break it in" and see if I could find any more problems. Other than the low voltage, none. 6 hrs and no oil loss, so that is good. Hot here in the 90's and the upper radiator tank was a steady 190 deg, so that is good also. 3 out of 4 lights work, One the screw in base came off the housing which caused the bulb to be smashed in transit. Long road, but glad to be at the end, or at least end in sight. Changed the L6-30r to L14-30r so I can spread 120 volt loads over both windings. the GFI outlet is only on one winding.