Draggin Wagon

You are right Vlad. I didn't look close enough

Wonder why they have a u-joint half way down steering column? Guess steering box is mounted further forward than B20 thru B60s?

Y'all need to watch all these comments about "old peoples" Other Dog, you will heal. Hope you didn't break any rocks Old Fuzzy Buzzard said that

Mark, Please send sn of second one when you can. Is it by chance the one owned by guy I told you about?

You have a dandy find there!!! There were only 9 built, 1957 year. I'll have to do some digging but I think sn B21F 1001 was not built. I got to see one number of years ago at Macungie. I was a heart stopping experience hearing that big beast running. Cool looking extended nose to get all that Hall-Scott stuffed under the hood! Thanks for putting yours in B Model Registry. I think yours will make 4 in registry of the 9 built!! I'll start updating Registry in December, send to Watt's in January and Barry will post when he has time. Good luck with this piece of Mack history

B813X started 1956, ended 1963. Total production of 38 B81X started 1956, ended 1966. Total production of 47

Keep tinkering with it, it is just testing your patience

Full Floater, please holler back if this works out ok. If possible post a picture . That would be a handy modification on the old Draggin Wagon when the time comes.

B 67T flat back and looks like might be air start. Left fuel tank looks unusually large

Give some thought to a roll back bed. Would be handy to haul golf cart and a motel runner car when you go to shows. Might be a little expensive sure would look sharp on that good looking ride. And besides I'm spending your money!!!

I would suggest the large radiator if you are dealing with much weight especially in hill country. The large radiator has a snorkel neck in top tank to fill the radiator. My old Draggin Wagon had the small radiator - no problems bobtail even in mountains. Hook camper to it, grossing around 25-26,000, really had to watch temp

I have seen some of the early Bs stamped around rear hanger for rear spring on right side.

Forgot -- I'm located ion SE Ohio

Sorry i didn't see this sooner. I do have a small B Model recored radiator that I could sell if you are still interested

Phildirt, I have all the originals of the B Model info on thumb drive. I can email what you are needing. Tom

Thanks. Little too slow for me.

Robb, Do you have this engine listed in the B Model Registry? If not, go to home page on this site and get it registered. Thanks Tom

What ratio??

On the front of the injection pump there is a long acorn nut. Take it off to see the "rack". If rack sticks out past the front face of injection pump, try pushing it back into pump. If it won't move, the rack is stuck in the full fuel position. If the pump had been getting fuel, the engine should have started and gone wide open and scared the crap out of you. But since it didn't, you have issues with fuel supply. Now, if the rack is flush with the front face of the injection pump or a little shy of flush and the fuel shut off cable is pushed all the way in, the rack is stuck in no fuel position. Ain't no way it's going to start. Most likely cause is one plunger in pump is stuck and has the rack fouled. I would pull the right fender, remove side cover of pump, roll engine over to see if all plungers are coming back down to meet the cam. Most likely one will be stuck in the up position. Now the fun starts! If you are lucky you can pry, beat or cuss the plunger down. Shoot penetrating all over everything. if you get it loose, roll engine over several times to be sure another plunger doesn't stick in up position. You should be able to move rack in and out freely - in is no fuel, out is full fuel. Now you are ready to bleed air out of system and start the engine. If a stuck rack is your problem, it could stick again if engine is not started very often. I have 2 theories for dealing with this. 1. Always leave fuel shut off pulled out. If the rack sticks, the engine won't start. Remove large acorn nut and try to pull rack forward to break it loose but it is hard to get pliers on it to pull. 2. Always leave fuel shut off pushed in. BEFORE you crank the engine, pull large acorn nut and tap the rack back a little and then pull it forward. Keep doing this until rack will move fairly easy. If you forget this and the rack is stuck, engine will go wide open and scare you so bad that you will take back things you never stole !!!! My old boom truck has a lot of rack problems and no amount of oil in the fuel seems to help. But it doesn't get started very often. Once it starts, usually no problems when using every couple days. Let it set for 6 months and the rack will be stuck. This is a long winded reply but I hope it helps

Could not find a new or used ring gear for this handy machine. Next choice, weld and grind in new teeth. Lot of calling and research, wound up using Crown Royal 220 TIG rod. This has properties very similar to Eutectic 680 which is hard to find. The 220 rod flowed in beautiful and the grinding was another subject!! Anyhow, all is back together and have run a little without any explosions. Guess time will tell how well this will work.

If the serial number plate is still on right door, assuming the cab still has doors, go to B Model Registry on this site. You should be able to get reasonable estimate on year of manufacture.

As usual, a fine batch of phornagraphs !!

yep, clear forgot it. Will try to do better tomorrow

Carl, I have a bunch of ratio boxes. I'll try to remember to look tomorrow to see if any 90 degree boxes. If you think of it tomorrow, shoot me a text to remind me.

A great big thanks to Barry for posting the 2021 edition of the registry today! This thing is getting so big it is hard to keep up with it. So take a look and check your truck to double check the information. Thanks again Barry for keeping this alive. Tom