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skydawg

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Everything posted by skydawg

  1. skydawg
    $1000 for studs???? I`m in the wrong hobby.
  2. skydawg
    Are any kits or parts available for an in-frame rebuild?
  3. skydawg
    Looks alot like the windshield on my `35 Ford coupe,which cranks out for ventilation,lol.
  4. skydawg
    Thanks to all for the tips.I`ll make sure to have the aux in low before I get to the corner...haven`t been doing that.
  5. skydawg
    I`ve gotten better at shifting my B61`s triplex,with one exception.When I need to turn a corner in town,I`ve slowed to walking speed,clutch depressed,main box in neutral.From there I can`t get it back into any gear,2`nd or 3`rd,clutch or no clutch,revs rising or falling,no luck,have to come to a complete stop.On the highway,no problem shifting up or down,no clutch.What am I doing wrong? Thanks.
  6. skydawg
    My truck is a `61,so maybe no thermostat,like Harry`s...I`ll check and see.
  7. skydawg
    The temp gauge in my 673 ENDT is at 140 deg after 20 min on the road,in 85 deg weather,shutters still closed.The shutters seem to work,open when sitting cold,then close when air builds,but don`t open after that.I figured my temp gauge must be off,that I must be fully warmed up after 20 min.If the gauge is wrong and the temp is more like 170,then maybe the shutter stat is bad?
  8. skydawg
    I ordered a gallon of Sta-Lube 140 wt. gear oil. It`s not mineral oil but that shouldn`t be an issue.
  9. skydawg
    I thought Penrite 140 mineral gear oil would be a good choice,but can`t find it here.What is a good equivalent to the GO-A mineral oil that Mack listed in their service manual? Thanks.
  10. skydawg
    The pin is tapered,no notch.So,given all the conflicting posts,I`m not going to pursue this,I`ll keep everything greased and drive it.Spent $300 on parts I was told were correct,and they`re not.Lack of parts and info will be the reason fewer of these great beasts will be on the road every year.
  11. skydawg
    So when that seam closes when installed in the knuckle,there`s no way the pin will fit w/out reaming.
  12. skydawg
    Here are pics of a bushing on and off the kingpin,you can see the spread in the seam needed to fit over the pin.
  13. skydawg
    The grease "grooves" in the bushing don`t go all the way to the top and bottom,so it seems like grease wouldn`t be able to exit the bushing,even without seals?
  14. skydawg
    I hope you`re right,DCW....this is all new to me,I don`t know squat. Mecho,the holes in the bushings are not in the center.Is there a shoulder inside the knuckle for each bushing to seat against?
  15. skydawg
    I didn`t gat any grease seals in the kit.I don`t see any in the Figure 9-9 pic that DCW posted.Can I re-use the old ones if I have them? If I spread the bushing seams by hand,they fit over the pins,but I`d think they would need reaming when installed in the knuckle,since they`re a no go over the pins when the seam is tight.
  16. skydawg
    The bushings have 2 holes,180deg apart.These are nos Mack parts,#301SQ32B.
  17. skydawg
    Here are my parts,the bushings are steel and are split,not a continuous circle.
  18. skydawg
    They`re threaded...easy peasy once I got a filter wrench that was big enough.
  19. skydawg
    Great pics,DCW,thankyou.I believe my truck has the Type 3,Figure9-9 setup.So the taper of the pin in the axle bears the weight,and the adjusting nut on the bottom moves the knuckle up or down slightly to maintain clearance w/ the axle?
  20. skydawg
    It must be threaded because a sharp knife blade will not even penetrate the joint when I try to hammer it in between the cap and the hub.
  21. skydawg
    I`m looking to remove the spoke hub grease caps without denting them...and without buying an $80 pr of pliers.I`m wondering if a strap type oil filter wrench would get it moving enough to get something behind it to pry it off?
  22. skydawg
    I got the kingpins and bushings,the pins are tapered but the bushings and their respective locations on the pins are not tapered.So these won`t require a tapered reamer.Does this sound like the correct parts for a FA 505 axle/knuckle? I`d hate to have a shop disassemble only to find that I gave them the wrong parts(nos Mack 301SQ32B).It would mean leaving the truck outside at the shop in a not-so-great area until I came up with correct parts,or putting it back together w/ the old pins...at $110/hr.
  23. skydawg
    Ok,I`ll try that,thanks.Leaving tomorrow for Vermont,be back Thursday.
  24. skydawg
    So AFTER I bought the 301SQ32B kingpins,I looked at the build sheet for my truck and the part# is 301SQA32C...did I just waste $300? I did have my brother help w/ the problem ID,and he said the kingpins are loose,also driver side tie rod end and drag link have too much play,He`s an excellent auto mechanic but not equipped or experienced w/ big trucks.He thought it looks like the drag link play might be taken up with a screw on the end.
  25. skydawg
    Joey,my email:skydawg999@gmail.com,and thank you.DCW,are there any special tools required,other than that reamer? I`m a back yard guy,can jack it up,but don`t have a shop.I`d give it a shot if it`s something an average guy could handle.

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