Joey Mack

Well..... I backed it out of the shop today after re-building the carb.. the hand brake works good, I tried to shift gears but... she aint ready for that yet,,,, or is it me whos not ready.. anyway, I need to get it tuned so it runs better, it shut off a couple times but fired right up. I also have to put a resistor on the coil, its getting hot. this truck is positive ground, i wonder if i need to wire the coil backwards? any thoughts? i have no practical knowledge of positive ground wiring, Jojo

I forgot to ask about a separate rear main housing. just curious. still need to do the runout check for the alignment of the clutch and tranny... I'm glad the others posted on this topic.. jojo

i looked up a metro unit... thats cool thanks again.. I'm going to bypass the old system and get the lines set up to hook to a new type of set up. I have a lot of room to do that work. there is already new lines and I think the wheel cyls are new too.. of course when i put fluid pressure to them, the truth will come out....

thank you! i will look it up. around a '96 model Geo?

OK..... The sealant is Mack Gray! also, that fly wheel housing may need to have "Runout" checked.... put the housing up dry to check and set run-out... if needed on this engine. I have done this only a few times many years ago... I hope "F", and Glenn chime in. There is others that can tell you as well.... jojo

good thing i'm hungry... I have words to eat.... "Welcome to Old truck repair" as I have said to others....$300.00 for the correct master cyl. at Amazon of all places...

Carb kit will be here in the morning. now i'm searching for a brake master cyl. I may put a 1ton chevy one on there with 2 chambers. I dont intend on working this truck at all, so I think I can bypass the old rusted vacuum booster and use the chevy master cyl. I would appreciate any opinions. i will look to see if there is a uni-fit booster master combo that fits in small spaces..... Thanks for the support. Jojo

did you pressure test the C.A.C. and intake manifold? if you have a one piece intake manifold, the gasket may be blown out near 5+6.... jojo

So true!!! I'm driving one, 10 years so far. Thanks for the laugh... jojo

thank you guys.. im proud to have her.. Jojo

Well after 7 months of lookin at her.... I pushed it in the shop. I hung a lawn mower gas tank with an in-line filter, like an I.V at the hospital, to feed the carb, and amazingly. it fired right up without ether.. I was happy to see the alt. and oil pressure gauge work. of course the carb gaskets are dry, so fuel leaked out. no sweat I just lowered the tank below the carb and let it clear out.. it had great throttle response... going to re-build the carb and, well.... keep going.. As you can see.. I have 3 helpers in my shop.. jojo

its basically the same as doing a cam job... sorry. I dont know if there is a gear puller that can pull the cam gear in the block, then good luck seating the 450 degree cam gear properly... jojo

I remember having a 460 in the shop with a low power complaint, it was inframed 6 months prior. I had to pull heads due to a coolant leak at #6. this job turned into a mess. I tried and tried to figure out the low power issue but didnt find the issue, and the cust didnt want to spend a bunch more money. this was where i found the procedure to check cam timing. the cam was timed in this engine. I will keep watching this thread. I too want to know the answer.. good luck, Jojo

well I looked through my e-tech book and cant find the timing check procedure.. I may have printed it off, when I was at the dealership... Mabey Mackpro, V, or F, know this procedure to check cam timing. Instead of the rocker on 3 being rocked, i think i pulled the injector to check TDC on #3... anyway, there is a way to check timing.. I will stand back now and watch.. jojo

the offset key gives a 3 degree change. up to 300 HP the key was installed with the red painted side out. (retarded) 350 up to 400 was a straight key, 427 and up was the same offset key but turned around so the white side was out. (advanced)... I dont know when this change was eliminated. I was told here that it was around 2004........ I wish I could remember the procedure, where you bring the engine to TDC on #1 and roll it to 28 degrees and the #3 exhaust rocker is rocked. that tells you that the timing marks were lined up correctly... when i have time i will dig out my E-Tech book and look for it... jojo

too bad theres not a peep hole in the timing cover to see what the cam key color is, or if it's a straight key.. He needs the "White side" out.... I wonder if you could get a scope inside throught the breather hole ?...jojo

Nice truck.... check the steering stop clearences on both sides. There are stop bolts installed with a jam nut on then. the stop bolt should be square headed. take the weight off the steer tires and have someone turn the wheel (Engine off) all the way one way then the other way. when all the way to one side check the gap between the bolt and the "nub" that sticks out on the axle beam. it should about an 1/8".. you can use a paint mixing stick for a feeler gauge, the length helps.. if the gaps are more than that , you should be able to adjust the stops in the gearbox. to do that... rather than me tell you, I suggest identifying the steering gear name and part #, then go to the website for adjustment procedure. similar boxes can be rebuilt as "adjustable" or "non-adjustable". Go Bulldog!

i beleive it goes to the clutch switch first then to the inj. pump. Is yours "full mechanical"? where is power missing? also. is it jacobs 680 brakes or dynatard?

is there a fuse for it? is there power to the dash switch ?

i'm due for my shot around 5/25

I agree with you... I always push my customers to let me run the valves... I dont care for ceramic, but .. yes proper maintainance will allow them to live longer... and the jack hammer effect, only has to hit once.... at some point they went to pin less bridges on both... I like pin less bridges. I have seen mechanics ignore the bridge lash, and scratch my head...... anyway... jojo

If it has spring loaded exhaust push rods, that would be CCRS... I call it ceramic cam roller sh$t.. It will have ceramic roller pushrod lifters. It may also have pin less intake bridges. The cam has a back cut on the exhaust lobes, I think its to accomadate the spring loaded push rods and act as an internal EGR... Help me out here, Mackpro... Jojo

90-97, with the last ones having an electronic governor housing. still miniscule compared to the next era. E-Tech..

Good luck Danny... Jojo

ok... well.. you dont know the truck yet, ok. I suggest a thorough visual inspection, "By You" and get familiar with your new truck before you spend money on repairs yet. You may find a pinched hose or a leak or something silly to cause issues. then go "up" from there. There will be several people here that can advise you. Keep posting... Jojo