Joey Mack

I just had another thought...... Is the cab rusted under the valence panel below the wind shields? look at the underside of the panel , the best you can..... its only about 8 T-25 screws to pull it off, just keep a check on the washer hoses... no biggie... jojo

OK.... door seals?

It will read V-Mac II.. how 'bout this??? when the lightning bolt is 'on'..... V-Mac III, you can pull the codes. (cruise control only... Lightning bolt is on..?? Turn cruise control off..... press the cruise speed control down for 2 full seconds an count the flashes. 'pay attention'! bring a pencil and paper.. there will be 2 set's of flashes. write it down, ie: (8-2.... #2 E.U.P. ) my point is, it's easy... cycle the button until the codes repeat... Be patient.... once you have written the code's, just look it up on the web... there is a bunch of free downloads, that you can print... Been there, done That!! Jojo

the 454 is fine... 2002-2006, have ceramic lifters... they work well, but can not handle any shock, when one breaks, the cam lobe will be destroyed in a flash... jojo

Can you please post a picture of the exhaust manifold?

very common

Any luck? Jojo

I am looking for the center piece of the exhaust manifold for an ASET-I engine, Mack's part number is: 104GC5213M.. I believe an E-tech one is the same, Jojo

Has anyone suggested a new gear selector assembly, I have replaced a few of them.... truth is, when i did that, its was a guess and twice it didnt work.. any chance you have another truck or a friends truck that you pop the selector out and test yours??? long shot.... These are tough issues to fix without P.T.T. As a mechanic it Chaps my Ass.... stay with us and the answer will come. Jojo

there should be a "Fuse link" in the batt. box.... its a short/seperate cable that goes to the frame. it's aground breaker... I'm pretty sure I'm right, they will dissable the truck when they fail.

DM's Kick Ass!!!!!! I have driving the same truck, and they just WORK.... I would buy a DM in a heartbeat....

have you tried to jump the celenoid at the starter with the key in the run position? then you can take it in to get the TCM flashed...

so when you turn the key, the starter doesnt engage? or does it turn over but not 'fire'? theres so many things that can cause this,,, chaffed wires on the tranny harness, fault codes, PTO issues, too many sensors!! can you plug in and test/ read codes/ etc.? good contact at the starter? jojo

what was the most recent repairs???

👍 Nice!!! Stop scratchin..... jojo

since the turbo is liquid cooled, can you remove the turbo exhaust pipe and the output, and pressure test the cooling system to see if coolant is leaking into the turbo? has the coolant level dropped ? Just curious, jojo

END is non-turbo,,,ENDT is with turbo. E-6 2 valves, have a rounded valve cover with 3 bolts down the middle.. this I know, but I think the 4 valve has a different valve cover, and I think production was around 1984,,, til 89'... sorry, a bit rusty... jojo

I read some posts over again, so you have a gray plug at the injection pump??? ok, those can get, bad/loose connections. just a thought. if the pump is not delivering fuel correctly, then boost will be lost..??, just a thought, jojo

yes there is an angular final torque spec... I dont have it in front of me, I thought final torque would be around 180. I may be wrong but I thought there were 12, 16mm bolts, grade 10.9?? .. just hold on and see who responds to what i said, "V" + "F", know this stuff faster than me.... :), jojo

just for sh#ts, you can search PAI but not be able to buy without creating an acct. and so on..... but.... you can get parts numbers and use them to search... try Nick's truck parts.com... anyway, you can get around it and use PAI... jojo......... P.S. big thumbs up on the 1070B 12 spd.. I love that tranny...

assuming you checked fuse,breakers,bulbs, etc.. I have found that where the harness passes thru the P-Clamps toward the front, they will cut into the wires, also look and see if the wire harness runs behind the oil filters and oil cooler along the block and look there for cuts and wear..

I almost forgot.... make sure when you 'barr' the engine over that you pull the ratchet towards the oil pan, thats proper rotation, also, if you go past the mark you are to stop on, back the engine up, 30 degrees past the correct mark, then bring it back around to the correct mark. this will take the lash out of the vale train. jojo

ok... be careful.... how I know I am up on #1 TDC. is: the #2 exhaust rocker is "Rocked" . I always start on #1. You have ceramic rollers in this engine and if you run the valves wrong and start it, and they 'rattle'. the lifters will be cracked. When you are confident that you are up on #1 and ready to go, check the bridge lash with (2) .010" feeler gauges first, I took a regular feeler and ground the edges to make a narrow feeler to fit inside the slot in the exhaust yoke. Press down on the yoke and make sure drag is even on both feelers, its tricky, but doable... adjust as needed, the nut torque is 33lbft. use a back-up wrench or adjustable to hold the yoke when torqueing so you dont stress or brake the yoke pin. ( you should have pinless intake bridges, so this wont be done there) Then you set the engine brake to .045" using the adjuster above the pushrod, leave the .045" feeler in place and set the exh. lash to .024". then intake is .016"... all this is done on the cylinder you are up on. then go to the next cyl. and repeat. you will end on #4.. the other adjuster nuts torque to 45lbft. the engine needs to be colder than 100 degrees.

p.s. make sure there is no oring or debris, inside the bore in the rocker shaft, before replacing, jojo

if you pull them out..... new o-rings... jojo