Joey Mack

I understand, the Kung flu kicked my butt in March and it definately got in the way of my thinking, speech, and concentration.. I also forgot that I ran valves on an E-7, (1990) 2 weeks ago and i used timing marks on the dampener... it also had both timing pointers. anyway, as long as our guy doesnt try to re-write the book, he should be fine.. jojo

Glenn, I was hoping you would show up.... you always fill in my blanks, i learn from you every time... jojo

doesnt the 4-valve dampener have 'TC' seperate from 1-6? therefore creating (4) timing marks, not including the degree scale.. ? I would stick with the correct dampener. are you setting the injection pump, or running the valves, or both? there should be 2 pointers, one for the valves and the other for the inj.pump... Not sure if i'm helping here, but there will be more info coming from some E-6 veterans,,, jojo

so youre fan has the little brass control vale on the left side of the radiator, right? If so, under normal conditions, when you shut the engine off, (air pressure above 90 psi), the fan blade will spin until the 7 second electrical shut down time is up, then the blade locks. if so, it locks when power is taken away. is this happening, the fan locks when power is off to the celenoid... Bare with me on this, and yes the A/C is connected to the system. power should be at the pressure switch waiting for the switch to react to pressure, which will turn the fan on to cool the grill condensor.. I hope some of my friends here fill in any blanks I have, jojo

I didnt look back at all posts, however,,, when you had the heads off, did you bolt the liners down and rotate the engine and check the liners for cracks,? the first 4 inches is where the water jacket is. Best of luck to you, jojo

run a new ground wire... (Earth wire)..... jojo

There is a black box, roughly 4x6" next to the steering column, on the fire wall... Open it up and get familiar with it. The EECU is fuse 40 and the back-up light s is #41... anyway, my point is that even though there is not a lot of fuses in there, they need to be clean and tight, because they are under the hood where a lot of things like ,,, dirt, water, oil, soot, coolant etc: that can get in there and F'up you're truck... Jojo

They look a lot like the hood latches on my 58' Dodge M-37... Jojo

ten's of thousands veterans are homeless, struggling, and killing themselves..... but He will give dissplaced, 'FAKE' Mexican families, who came here illegally,,,,,,,, $450,000.00..... each!!!! I have more, but I just got pissed off again.... Sorry,, Jojo

so you have probed for power in the sleeper and sleeper fuse panel, and there is none? outside on the firewall next to the steering shaft is a fuse box that has sleeper and trailer fuses. I think it the left row of maxi fuses... jojo

Welcome aboard... How's thing's in Beantown. ? Been a while since I've been there.... pic's, pic's, pics.... Jojo

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another option is overdrive rebuilders... I think its a chain company name. but just call the Concord N.C. location, I bet they have e'm 704-782-5557, ask for Chance... jojo

how about taking the o-rings to youre local hydraulic cylinder shop and matching them up to some cylinder o-rings. my shop here in town has wall of orings, with what seems like standardized numbers.. just a thought, Volvo doesnt give a damn.... Jojo

Yeah, I never thought to remove it either.. Im sure I will be taking one apart soon, and will try it. No matter how many i've done, I still seem to fight them and invent new curse words... it's all good, jojo

Hope not..... Thanks Mate, and Mowerman.. jojo

is the window all the way down? it needs to be, then remove the large phillips screws, then it's a bit of an effort, lift it up and pull the bottom out then pull down, there may be little tabs at the bottom that you have to clear. it wouldnt hurt to remove the frame that is inside the window opening, and then remove the lower window wipers on the door, the area where you rest your arm with the window down. to remove the key hole, there is a spring steel retainer in the door, that can be pryed out with a screwdriver and pulled all the way out with pliers, this will release the door lock so you can replace it, anyway , I always fight these window units no matter how many i've done. I may have forgotten something here, but others will fill in the blanks. the cool thing is that when it's out, you can service it on a work bench, and install a repaired unit.. ok.... i'm out... jojo

See if you can search "fast idle with cruise control" Here at BMT. it's from 2016.. Jojo

yep, he is a D'Bag.... it's time to cull' out he herd.....

That's great!! I'm only here a year and a half, but it was obvious from the start that guy's like us need to be here... Jojo

That's what I'm talkin 'bout!!!! Jojo

are the batteries connected good? The truck you have has a pretty simple electrical system, so I feel like it will be a "loose" connection, rather than a 'paychecks' worth of parts thrown at it.. jojo

when you park it, leave it running and wiggle the key before you shut it down to try and duplicate the issue with the switch. you said "fully mechanical" so you have a "pull stop" to shut it down? jojo