Joey Mack

I just did a set of these in an '86 superliner.. It went well.. I have an old '+nut' that i cut grooves in to make a chaser for the threads.. it works good for cleaning the threads without cutting them.. the new kits DO NOT come with new '+nut's'.. just FYI... jojo

I would love too.. My brother lives near Boca.... jojo

for sure, I live in the southeast now, so rust is not very common.. like it was when I lived in Maine.. I dont use torches near as much, I still reassemble with anti seize wherever possible. jojo

JoeH is giving you good advice.. jojo

bad deal for sure... I'm sorry....... jojo

'G' I truly understand.... yes it is hard work, not rocket surgery, just hard work.. too bad we arent close to each other.. I would come do it with you.. jojo

its all good... Bob... i was 'F'n' with you.... jojo

hey Bob... we are the reputable shop.... With Love... Jojo

just get both ends apart and use the old pin to see if the boss's in the beams are worn out... it will be easy to see.. if they are a little bit worn and the bushings in the knuckle are wicked bad, but not worn into the knuckle,, you may just be able to put a new king pin set in it and get by just fine.. jojo

yes sir.. 20+ years ago I was taught to hand reem the bushing's... but after that the bushings were re-vamped and the reeming became buffing.. it still produces a quality fit.. I appreciate you so much.. not my thread, but i dont care. you have the smart's... jojo

that is so true Mech.. good point. once the dirt and hard grease is out, it can be loosy goosy... so true.. I hope his beam is good.. i expect it is.. not a hard job, the hard part is the anticipation of the cost.. jojo

if I have the parts, and the beam is good... 8 hours...

yes Mech, however, i have buffed them to get a smooth snug fit, because when they get driven in there will be a bit of a peaned over edge, but it can be buffed/ chamfered with a flapper wheel or by hand with that little wiggly tool that I cant name.. oop's... jojo

looks like shit all over it.. that one is the adjustable one, but given the dirt all around it.... you need to clean it real good and check it again... if you are sure that its bad, the repair is not hard to do.. when you take it apart, take the king pin and put it back into the axle beam boss to see if it is worn out.. if it is, you can get the beam reamed and re-bushed to accept the new king pin set... jojo

I just dropped $2800.00 on a counterbore cutter and the cutter plate and extra carbide's.. jojo

no freebie's.. .. i have been buying tools that are copied, and so far they are doing the job correctly. Im glad I know what the right tool looks like.at the least I can see if it the right tool.. jojo

Yes sir. I thought so... glad you got it fixed.. Jojo

Only if you are an actual American... Cross the border illegally, and you will be taken care of... Easy Breezy..... jojo

it is a heck of an angle on that steering shaft,, I have replaced a boat load of those u-joints due to excessive wear... grease is great, but the stress on them is greater... jojo

Mechohaulic, I posted this for youre entertainment, jojo

Home J-37720-C Mack E9, E7, & E6 Roller Lifter & Tappet Holder Kit J-37720-C Mack E9, E7, & E6 Roller Lifter & Tappet Holder Kit This tool retains the roller lifters when removing and installing the camshaft. It works on E-7 EUP (Electronic Unit Pump) and tappets in the Mack E-9, E-7, and E-6 Engines. Includes: J-42425-3 Magnet Cap x16 J-42425-4 Bottom Rod x16 J-37720-5A Top Rod x16 J-37720-6A Grommet Kit x1 J-37720-7A 30" Pouch x1 J-37720-13A Magnet x16 J-37720-14B Instruction Sheet x1 MANUFACTURER SPX/Bosch (OTC Rotunda Kent-Moore Miller) BRAND SPX/Bosch (OTC Rotunda Kent-Moore Miller) STORAGE CODE A-11,A-17 J-37720-C Mack E9, E7, & E6 Roller Lifter & Tappet Holder Kit SKU# J-37720-C California Residents: WARNING 1 Review(s) | Add Your Review You will earn 12 dollars off your next purchase for purchasing this product. Item Condition: new Aftermarket AM-J-37720-C $599.99 OEM J-37720-C $853.22 Ships today! Order now and receive by Tuesday March 15 when selecting UPS Next Day Air $853.22 QTY: ADD TO CART CHECK FOR ALTERNATIVES EMAIL TO A FRIEND Not sure if this is what you need? Give us a call and we'll look it up for free if you purchase the tools or parts from us! ADDITIONAL OPTIONS & MECHANIC WEAR Mechanic Short Sleeve Moisture Wicking Shop Shirt $32.04

so regarding phasing, those 2 u-joints at the box are not to be phased.. they are offset from birth.. It sounds like you have a good working knowledge of your truck, If the weld is suspicious, then maybe thats the issue. I believe you said you tried it on another truck and it worked fine.. one other thing? your box has a large yoke bolted to the top of the steering box, with a bearing in it. is it in the proper place? just curious? jojo

actually Bob, I do not know how far back the adjustable tapered king pins go, but if you look at your 'R' model, on the bottom of the king pin, you may see a 'cross' were the large cotter pin goes through... thats the adjuster. of course its only 90 degrees at a time, and not a fine adjustment. you may also have shims between the axle beam and the knuckle. if multiple adjustments are being done, I would be concerned about the thrust bearing at the bottom of the pin.. anyway, he probably has the newer style.. jojo

if you replace the top u-joint at the steering box, did you happen to flip the shaft yoke 180 degrees? and/or did you put the steering shaft in 90 degrees off? Thats all i can think of, if this is a steering issue and not a kingpin issue.. jojo

not the newer ones, i was stating that they are easy check and repair... jojo