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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. Yes Bob has sent pictures to me.. We are 'Kin' ya' know...
  2. I know we would love to see pictures of this Bus.. Jojo
  3. Good deal Bob. I see you can post pictures again.. 🍻
  4. Yes the bleeder is important and must face forward. After a few years of doing these, I just remove the plug on top of the front water manifold, right behind the thermostat housing. then you can pour the coolant in quickly. you can thread the plug back in about 1 turn so you dont make a big mess,,
  5. Fleetliner? What country are you in? I assume you have EUP's..
  6. Maybe you relieved an air pocket, and it improved the cooling.. there are Mack engines without coolant filters. Anyway, that's good..
  7. the EECU fuse is #40 in the box under the hood. 9-2 code is '' power reset without the key'' I lean towards a loose ground. yes, a 'wiggle' wire/fuse test may just point you to the issue..
  8. speed controller..
  9. It was a good day for sure..
  10. I bet the ''credit card'' is bad.. there is a fan resistor in the left side of the HVAC box.. look for the flat plug going into the box
  11. check the ground wires at the big bolt on the block in front of the starter.. Is the coolant low, below the sensor? does the shutdown light come on? it seems like the issue is when going uphill.. I wouldnt throw any parts at it yet. I bet its a loose/bad wire. yes, check fuel pressure, should be around 80 PSI.
  12. Paul, I have a large toaster oven in my shop. I can put it right next my work, and rock and roll..
  13. Oh Hell !!! Is that a Mortar ??
  14. It's All Good Bud... Jojo
  15. I own the rear main seal installer.. it works just fine..
  16. Well, if you want to make a million dollars with that truck.... Start with 2 million... Run away, run far away....
  17. the water filter just takes a small sample of water.. I highly doubt the issue is there.. Yes, cleaning/ rodding the radiator can prove well. Another possiblilty is pump cavitation. as you go along on this, I recommend you get the 2 pump gaskets, and pull the pump and inspect the impeller and the housing. When looking at the housing, ( the part that stays mounted to the engine) you are looking for pitting and grooves caused by air in the cooling system.. if you find that, you will need a new housing, cavitation will reduce coolant flow enough to raise engine temp.
  18. either oil pump will do good. I have used both.. however, the last PAI oil pump I used ran about 7PSI less than Mack's. This is based on comparing several engine builds.. 70+ PSI on a fresh build with a Mack pump is common, 60+ PSI is also good, but .... on the low side the PAI pump showed around 32PSI at low idle. still not bad... JoeH's CAC tester is decent and easy to make.. just be sure to tighten the clamps really tight. The caps will shoot out if not tight..
  19. Yes. However there is a spec for re- use..
  20. I wish you the Best !! Jojo keep us posted..
  21. Well Straydog, I appreciate the fact that you want to get it re-built.. Please make sure the shop knows how to do Mack engines. especially setting the liners to the correct height. and ask if they have a counter bore cutter in the case the shelves are pitted out to the edge.
  22. I just drink Busch Light because its just OK and cheap. I do like PBR at times, and I really like yuengling, just to 'Cheap' to pay for it.
  23. you dont have to remove the CAC. just spray with soapy water.. there usually crack on the right side near the top and along the weld on the tank.. Just like Joeh said.
  24. Yes it is, but they have yet to have a ''Switch hitter'' advertise for this brew,,,, until then, I'm good..
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