67RModel

A lot of guys get major heartburn when you tell them to just go to the dealer and get the parts they need. Honestly, by the time you do all the leg work to make it happen in the aftermarket or trying to find something used out of a salvage yard its most times cheaper to just get it from the dealer. Plus you have the best quality parts you can get and have less of a chance of them stranding you on the side of the road. 

I know they are generally pretty expensive but McMaster Carr would have what you need. They have literally any variety of hardware you could possibly ever need in a dozen lifetimes. Plus they make finding what you need very easy with their online catalog. For one off things like these two springs I always check there first.

42 minutes ago, CaptainCrutch said:

All my life people have looked at my name and read it wrong. My name has the word crutch in it but it fairly regularly gets turned into crunch. So some number of years ago a group of kids thought to call me Captain Crunch and I guess the corrected version stuck. Doesn’t bother me none considering my family history in the fire service, although somewhat strangely my ancestors seem to always miss the rank of Captain…

I have literally read your handle as "Captain Crunch" since the first time I saw it and until just now thought that's what it actually said. Its that the mind sees what it wants too thing.....

Its very easy to sit back in an arm chair and declare the President is a moron and is intent on destroying the very country he has lived in and benefitted from his entire life. The man is honestly a senile old man with onset dementia, who was well past his prime before he was Obama's vice president.  I don't much care for his platform or political beliefs either, and in no way whatsoever helped him (or his oxygen thief Vice President) to get elected. With that being said he has thus far been making the right calls with respect to the Russian invasion of Ukraine all things considered. Given the fact Russia possesses and has nuclear weapons deployed, and that Putin is a deranged psychopath, the best strategy is to economically sanction Russia to the point where their economy implodes from within, which its well on the way of doing. Life for the average Russian citizen is going to get heinously bad and Putin's base will eventually turn on him. Along with incredibly harsh sanctions, providing money and aid to Ukraine to continue fighting is also the correct move. Biden also appears to be doing his best to not get the US or other NATO countries involved militarily as can be seen by denying to get involved with Poland's fighter jet nonsense. There are many other examples if you choose to investigate. So however seemingly insignificant banning Russian oil imports to the US may seem, any effort to isolate and starve out Putin's economy is worth it and will in fact "punish" the Russian economy, and in my opinion not laughable. Its one card in Biden's hand that was played correctly. However, this will piss a lot of American's off because it will contribute to higher prices at the pump. Just about every major Western European county is making plans to stop or at least start cutting back on buying Russian energy. The resolve and collaboration of the Western countries as well as private companies worldwide going all in to eliminate Russia from the world economy is unprecedented and was a very bad miscalculation by Putin.

As far as Biden somehow hampering oil and gas production domestically, its simply not true. Remember I don't particularly care for the guy either. Oil and gas producers are free to explore for and extract as much oil as they like. Collectively they literally have thousands of untapped leases approved for drilling and extraction. It just has not been economically viable to do so until very recently. I suspect that since oil is trading for greater than $120.00/bbl right now you will start to see more domestic production start to ramp up. But it will probably be gradual because the producers are going to be cautious as to what plays out with Russia. Also for the record: THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA IS THE LARGEST OIL AND GAS PRODUCER IN THE WORLD. Read it again. We produce the most oil and gas in the world followed by Saudi Arabia then Russia. It gets sold on the global commodities market to whoever is willing to pay the most for it. It doesn't necessarily get sold domestically and refined into gasoline and given to the Texaco down the street so American's can have cheap gas for eternity. Sorry its just not the way they system works like it or not.

Sorry for the long winded reply / rant, but I'm just trying to intelligently contribute the best way I know how. Also, not every single thing a politician on the other side of the isle from you does is automatically a disastrously horrible thing.

You can't go wrong prefilling them with diesel. It will help with reprimming the fuel system or from it loosing prime altogether. I cant imagine filling them with any of the other two fluids you mention as they would super concentrated going through the fuel system. I thought injector cleaner was to be diluted by dumping into the fuel tank. The mystery oil claim probably comes from guys wanting to add lubricity to their fuel since these new low sulfur fuels have very little lubricating properties compared to the fuel from decades past. Long story short just fill the filters with diesel fuel in my opinion. If you want to add an additive to lubricate/clean the fuel system then add it to the tank each time you fill up. I add a quart of non detergent SAE30 engine oil or conventional 2 stroke pre mix oil to my 94RD E7 about every 75-100 gallons of fuel I put in. The older trucks engines and fuel systems were designed around the old fuel blend that had much more lubrication properties than the new "less polluting" stuff they make now. 

15 hours ago, tenfive0 said:

Punish the Russians? That's laughable.

I'm just curious why you feel this is laughable.

Any type in particular? Does it have to be a 1979 period correct make and model or just any old sleeper? I don’t think Mack made their own integral sleeper until the mid 90s CH trucks. Anything before that was vendor sleeper or aftermarket unit added later by the owner.

Would this be the same layout for a 1994 RD? What fuse number is the dash panel lights if you know? Thanks.

11 minutes ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Friend of mine went into an auto parts store a few years back, and asked for  a Heli-Coli kit.  Honest to God, they asked him what car it was for.

The last time I bought brake pads and rotors for my pickup I told the parts counter typist that it was a 2009 Chevy half ton pickup and he did not know that meant a Silverado 1500 because it wasn't listed in the computer like that....like wtf is going on anymore?

You should upload some pictures of it. Everyone here loves pictures and a rust free 85 R model with only 165,000 origianl miles would be eye candy.

Looks like price will continue to climb as US bans crude imports from Russia this morning. Although a minimal amount of total imports (around 10% of US's imports come from Russia) the reduction in supply will drive up cost more. As more Western European countries do the same and ban Russian oil imports there will a sizable void that needs to be filled globally. This is good for the domestic shale producers as they need a high price per barrel (>$90/bbl I think) to be competitive. So hopefully we see more domestic production ramp up and domestic energy jobs added.....Honestly I'm not too sad about the current cost hikes due to Russian oil being cancelled globally. It's really a small price to pay in order to help the Ukrainians as well as punish the Russian economy for this madness.

8 hours ago, Tinman22 said:

Unfortunately It was only driven in the summer so it has sat every winter since its purchase in 1985.

I think you meant fortunately 😄

8 hours ago, Tinman22 said:

It still needs a new one piece composite headliner and full interior if such a thing even exists.

There was a guy on here a year or two ago selling or at least taking orders for full cab kits for R models. I think actually yesterday the thread was resurrected. It seems maybe Covid put the guy out of business? I think in the thread there someone listed a company in Australia making interior pieces too.

8 hours ago, Tinman22 said:

Im taking alot of ribbing from family and friends for its age but I figured if it could do it in 1985 it can do it today. we run two lane state highways all the time between gary indiana and toledo so no hills and 55 mph.

Yes I love how 350hp was more than adequate 35 years ago but most people seem to think an engine like this is irrelevant today. I wouldn't hesitate a minute to run that powertrain even in the hills of Pennsylvania. Heck my 94 RD dump has a 250hp Maxidyne. Probably not pulling the weight you will be but she certainly slows down on the hills but gets me there every time. I really could not care less if people behind me get angry. As far as I'm concerned everyone is in too much of a hurry all the time anyway. In my opinion you will be way further ahead going this route than financing yourself to death on one of these new trucks. As long as parts continue to be available your better off with a truck like this than anything made past 2002/2003 really. 

How quickly everyone forgets history. In July 2008 the average cost of a gallon of 87 octane in the United States was $4.11. Adjusted for inflation that is $5.37/gallon in today's money. I'm sure we were all complaining how outrageous $4.11/gal was at the time, but the current prices aren't nearly as bad as they were in 2008....Although we could easily surpass $5.37/gal given the current geopolitical horseshit going on now.

Pretty vague question.....in any live tandem axle setup the torque generated is always transmitted to wheel end with the least amount of traction. If that is enough traction to overcome the load then the truck moves. If not the wheel spins. If you engage the power divider then you force the torque into both axles, hopefully by doing this you can put down enough torque to get moving. With that being said the front drive doesn't necessarily transmit torque/power to the ground unless the power divider is engaged. Do you have a power divider? Is it engaged? On vendor axles like Meritor/Eatons it will be a manual air switch. A lot of the Mack tandems have an automatic "peanut" power divider that uses clutches.

Please provide more information.

Yes very scarce model indeed. Only 67 N613s made during their production run from 1957-1960. 

Sorry for my ignorance but who was Ed Ackell? Was he a longtime forum member? Was Hatcity is user name? From everyone's comments he seemed to be a very admired guy around here.....

2 hours ago, Robo987 said:

Well that’s definitely some good info guys so thank you all for your contributions.  When I get some time I’ll check it out a little closer and see if I can find a number stamped in the frame.  If it’s not there I guess I won’t worry to much about it.

Its there (unless the truck had new frame rails put under it at some point). You just need to get a little wire wheel on a cordless drill and clean off the frame. My 1960 B81 and my 1967 R model have the model/serial number that matches the door tag stamped into the frame rail in the front passenger side where everyone is showing. My 1994 RD690 is in the same location but as Vlad said its an actual VIN number not the model/serial number like you will see

I know these systems spit out all kinds of errors when one thing is wrong but he did say he is getting a crankcase pressure fault. Maybe these cylinders are putting their pressure into the into the crankcase. But like you said....doubtful. 

23 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

178 rpm of when he was cranking it, it shuts off the injectors for a no start. The ECM determines the results based off the cam sensor to tell what cylinder it’s on and then the sensor at the flywheel to measure the speed of the crank. High speed for less compression and lower speed for higher compression.

Interesting. Makes good sense when its explained. It looks like the compression test is functioning properly then. That is to say I guess you can trust that cylinders 1 & 6 have low compression since those are the two that were repaired. What would the chances be that both 1 & 6 have good compression and the test is saying they do not? So it has low compression in those cylinders. Can failed injector cups and/or repair mistake somehow bleed pressure out of the cylinders? Valves not sealing? Cracked piston? Cracked liner? Not much else could be wrong. Am I missing something?