67RModel

15 minutes ago, Tinman22 said:

Hmm. guess i should have kept the 4" badly welded stub that everybody said they would run. 

The original was friction welded so no sleeve fit either. 

I originally said no way in hell would I run that if it was just a "new" spindle butt welded in place, which it sounds like what you are saying was the case. No disrespect to whoever decided that was a good idea but.......

10 minutes ago, tjc transport said:

one thing i do not like about the automatic is you have to pay attention and make sure you hold your foot on the brakes at a stop light otherwise you will run into the car in front of you. 

no more kicking it into neutral and sitting there when on flat road. 

i have not hit anyone yet, but came real close a couple times when it was new.

It has been a long time since I drove the DT12 automated manual (air operated clutch) but I don't think it engages until you get onto the throttle. So you could do as you say and sit there on a level surface and not move while its in "Drive". I might be off on that but I think that's how I remember it. An Allison is a different animal and will move you due to the viscous coupling to the engine the torque converter provides.....just like a pickup.

I was going to just ask the question if this is something that happened all of a sudden or if it has slowly been loosing power over time like having to drop gears now on hills you didn't have to last year. Did you just get into this truck for the first time after driving something else and its its just your perception? Any check engine lights or malfunction codes stored in the ECM?

Yes the automated "automatics" take a tremendous amount of "feel" out of the driving experience and in my opinion create a degree of complacency because they are so easy to drive.

2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

some more thoughts???  I have never driven an automatic tranny truck, so help me with this? how do you gear down safely when you come up on a bad situation?

There is a large stalk on the right side of the steering column just like turn signal control. You can toggle it up and down to upshift and downshift respectively. This will override the transmission's brain to a degree. You can also push it forward to the dashboard to select different levels of engine braking.  This is with a Detroit DT12. I think Eaton Ultrashifts are similar in operation.....

13 hours ago, Fastduramax said:

FINALLY!!! Hey John where did you purchase yours, I searched that part # on ebay tons of HX50's but no 3580251 ? 

Here is another one:

https://www.turbochargerpros.com/buynow/40-30842_HO

Says out of stock (go figure) but there seems to be a lot of variation in price on these things. It also says that they are actual part numbers for Mack E6 engines so it may or may not be an upgrade. I have no clue but I found them pretty easily via the Google machine.....

https://www.mddistributorsstore.com/holset/3580251h/new-turbocharger#!product_info

1 hour ago, MHfred said:

EDIT: I need $3500 for the trailer and $22k for both. Located in Central Virginia. 1954wc22plt@comcast.net.

What are the specs on the MH?

I look around at all these people dropping $65,000+ on new 3/4 ton pickups and this truck doesn't look so expensive lol. 

Yea with that information there is no way in hell I would trust or run that spindle. You basically traded the entire cross section of heat treated homogenous material for a fillet weld around the diameter of it. Somebody probably blew in a 6010 root and capped it with 7018 and called it good. Nuts

16 minutes ago, terry said:

Isn't that between inner and outer wheel bearing? If weld looks good run it

I think it would have to be. There is no way a bearing would ride on that without getting destroyed in fairly short order. I wonder if it actually broke or if there was just some type of stress fatigue cracking at that machined step and they just threw some weld on it for good measure. Either way that is pretty wild. Would that pass a Federal Annual Inspection or would that be up to the discretion of the inspection mechanic?

I read this thread last week when Louis went off the deep end. I read back through all the replies and can't figure out what the heck he is talking about and/or why he seems so confrontational. I though maybe he got hacked or something and I just moved on.....

10 hours ago, Mackch613 said:

I don’t know exactly either what aset engine it is it has a grey engine it’s all I know, what I’m trying to accomplish is get more power it seems real sluggish when going up bridges loaded I under stand that the weight on the truck isn’t light by any means (18 tons) but surely there is something I can do to get more power out of it

An ASET AI engine will have a plane jane, conventional looking turbo on it. An ASET AC engine will have a big silver piece of garbage hanging off the side of the turbo. It is the variable geometry actuator. This is the easiest way to glance at and ASET engine and tell the difference. If it was factory build as a dump truck it will most likely have an AI engine but a CH613 was typically a road tractor, which mostly had AC engines. Maybe yours was originally a tractor and made into a dump? Sorry but these engines don't have "lots of power" and "seem real sluggish" even when they are working properly. Its just the nature of their size and design. No matter what you do to them they will not feel like they have lots of power. I'm not saying you don't have a problem with yours but don't expect a night and day difference in drivability after "tweaking" it.

The exporters would be foaming at the mouth if they saw this yard. LOL.

Yea now I’m not sure what I saw in the manuals I was looking at. I think I was looking at several different T20”X”0 manuals and kept seeing the two different terms and just assumed the 2070 came in both types. At least I can tell the difference now.

Thank You. This is what I needed.

33 minutes ago, Vladislav said:

BTW I'm not sure T2070 was offered in the short compound version. T2080 was.

Yea I guess I'm not sure either but several of the T2070 manuals I see have "short compound" on the cover so I guess it was made at some point in time. Thanks again.

I see in Mack publications there is a "long compound" and a "short compound" T2070 transmission. How do I know which one I have? I am trying to purchase a manual for it but I want to buy the correct one. Is there a measurement or easy way to tell from just looking at it? Its in a 1994 RD690. Thanks.

12 minutes ago, mowerman said:

i hadda 1970 chevy 4by 4 in the 70s mileage was terrible 350 2 barrel...7 mpg.lol.bob

Gas was probably like 25 cents per gallon prior too the "energy crisis" during that time

18 minutes ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Wonder what ever happened here?

I think he figured out the error in his thinking. See below from a little while back:

On 3/7/2022 at 6:53 PM, raybing said:

I had it all wrong. Rear driver all the time. Front engaged with air switch. Duh.

No broken pcs in front axle. 

7 hours ago, Hans Remmers said:

St Louis Macks page 5.  Couldn't figure out how to link it to this topic.  I've seen it for sale in the past as well in the red white and blue colors.

There is a lot of information on the truck if you follow the above link. Seems like the previous owner was @convoyduelon the forum here.

48 minutes ago, John3406 said:

Thats a vmac looks like. Im sure i can put mechanical pump on it. Probably have to change cam pistons injectors and turbo to bump the hp up. Ill keep it in mind

Yes it is VMAC 1. Good running engine. I was told on a different thread on here that to back to a full mechanical pump you need to change the injector lines from the mechanical engine over too. Thanks.