67RModel

I thought ethering an ASET engine was like the biggest NO-NO in the book? I have a friend who used to own a large fleet of E7s and ASETs. One of his trucks was far away from home and had to get towed into a shop. The shop was a one man real old school operation and the old timer had never worked on anything that new at time. He used ether on it and it wiped out something in the head. Something in the valve train is ceramic or ceramic coated and you can't use ether on them? I can't remember. Maybe I'm wrong on that so correct me if so.

If your getting good fuel up to the head ether the computer isn't allowing the injectors to operate because it isn't satisfied or there is not enough compression to ignite diesel. When you crank it without ether will it start to smoke at all out of the exhaust? No smoke no fuel?

I love living in an area where there is actually 4 distinct seasons, however, winter is my least favorite. The first snow or two are nice but after that I'm really done with it and can't stand it. I despise the cold the most. Once it gets cold out I light a coal fire and pretty much hibernate inside until mid March. I think we hit -8 and they said it felt like -30 with the wind. Today its supposed to be 51 and sunny.

Could the fuel system be sucking a tiny bit of wind? Just enough to loose prime? Had this happen on my series 60 Detroit. Man worked on the return line and used one of the push to connect fittings. It didn’t hold 100%. It wouldn’t start after sitting a few minutes. Ether would get to light up. And at idle it would slowly want to die unless you gave it some throttle.

One might be a T310LR with the super deep reverse gear ratio but otherwise the same. You could check this easy enough if you can get them both into reverse and count the output yoke revolutions for each input shaft revolution. I assume they are both removed from the truck.

5 hours ago, storkmack said:

That’s who I was thinking of.  Been seeing him going through the the Chicagoland area lately.

He told me he has a dedicated weekly run picking up in Wisconsin and delivering all over the mid Atlantic states. P.S. how is the Hendrickson coming along?

18 minutes ago, storkmack said:

Is his MH orange in color?

I think you might be thinking of Ray Sidella. He transports a lot of antique trucks for forum members. He moved my White Road Boss for me earlier this year. He has an orange MH he uses. His username her on the forum is mack mhe9. I think he used to be very active but not so much anymore. He responds to PMs very reliably.

There is a bunch of pallet jacks at a local auction coming up. I'm going to try and snag one for a good deal. 

Thank you. I will likely try this to save myself the strained back from trying to lift up a drum/hub assembly and trying to slide it on without messing up the wheel seal. 

1 hour ago, MACKS said:

Are u pulling the spokes and wheels together,are u familiar with the greased up board method,saves u a ton of work..

My plan was to remove the wheels first then take off the cone, see what I have, and go from there. I'm not familiar with the greased board method. I can't image how I would move both wheels and tires the hub and brake drum all at once. I don't currently have a cherry picker or gantry crane handy. It has 12.00-24 rubber on it too. Very heavy. But I'm open to any handy tips and tricks. Thanks.

Below are two pictures. The first one is of the drive hub on my 1994 RD with 44,000lb rears. The second is of the drive hub on my 1960 B81 with what I think are 58,000lb rears. They have the infamous "cone" in the center of the hub. I am very familiar with wheel end tear down on the style of axle the 94 RD has. Unbolt flange and axle/flange assembly comes out as one piece etc. I have never messed with the B81 axles. I want to remove the wheels and hubs to get a look in there and get the brakes sorted and checked over. Is there any special process to follow with this style of hub? What will I see when I remove the cone? Is the axle shaft attached to it like my RD? Are the bearings in these axles running in an oil bath from the gear oil (like the RD) or are they packed in grease? I'm sure I have other questions but can't think of them now. Or I will have more when I start into the project. Thanks.

I’ll have to take some more pictures of it tomorrow. I actually don’t have anymore of it lol. I have a bunch of when it was getting built initially but nothing recent. 

It’s really nice since the whole slab is 65 degrees. The whole shop is being headed with radiation from the slab rather than convection from a warm air furnace or unit heater. With the slab controlled at 65 if feels much warmer than 65. I don’t know what the air temp is since the thermometer reads the slab temperature. The trade off is its much more costly to install than a unit heater or regular furnace.

42 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Yea that radiant floor heat is great. It’s too good. You get hot quick! Our lower garage that all the Mack’s go in has that. When putting tire chains on, that heat will have you down to your underwear in no time. 

I don't ever get hot lol. A room can never be too hot for me. The hotter the better in my opinion so this heated floor is a game changer for me. My house is the same way. I usually keep it anywhere from 74-76 degrees in Winter. I light a coal fire in my coal stove usually around mid December and it doesn't go out until early April.......Winter sucks for me lol.

OK. here are some questions that may help:

1. Is this something that just happened? Like you opened the hood one day and they were touching? Or have you noticed the clearance between the two getting smaller over time.

2. How much is the clearance on a Trident that doesn't have this problem? 3 inches or 3mm?

3. Have you done any crazy offroading or heavily loaded offroading? Maybe your frame is twisted? If engine, trans, and cab mounts are all new/good what else could it be?

Just to be clear is the broken rocker arm and bent push rod the one the mechanic adjusted twice? 

What about your cab mounts? 

7 minutes ago, davehummell said:

If I remember it correctly couldn't you order that A C engine with 600 hp.

All the old literature I have seen on them the highest rating was 450hp. And I think 1250 ft lb 

1 hour ago, BOBWhite said:

Some form post said that no one still runs 1693's anymore but our's is still used every year for harvest.

Is your 1693 painted white or is it yellow? I think the early cat truck engines were “Matterhorn White” color. 

From what I have read on other truck and tractor forums is that they were considerably more expensive. It was Allis’s first rodeo at a truck engine and people were hesitant to be a Guinea pig. But I think the biggest downfall was they had no dealer network along the highway system like Cummins and Detroit had. You were forced to find a construction equipment or possibly a tractor dealer that could work on them. I think it was the same engine used in their largest dozer but tweaked for road use. Also maybe used in the AC 220 tractor

Ahhh makes sense with the jakes and overhead cams. Every time I hear one of his stories I wonder "how good could they really have been compared to the competition?" I wanna say their max factory hp rating was 300 but like you said probably had more torque than most other engines of the time due to their larger size.

I also always wonder too about the Allis Chalmers 25000 "Big Al" truck engine. Supposedly they were complete animals. Factory rated at 450hp when everything else was 300 or 350 max. I even think they came with a guarantee to be able to maintain the speed limit on any US highway at legal weight. They were painted purple and an option in Kenworth and Peterbilt trucks. I think Mack also built some F model cabovers with them for power. They are super rare and not much information left on them anymore.