67RModel

I found this one on Facebook Marketplace. It says it is in West Pittsburg, PA which is about 45 miles north of Pittsburgh, PA but judging from the pictures I can guarantee they were not taken in West Pittsburg, PA let alone in this country so I assume its a scam but you never know....

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/579188643301940/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

Did you change the both transmissions or just the back box (auxiliary transmission)?

I always thought the back box was the auxiliary which is an underdrive and direct (1:1). The overdrive gear is the 5th gear in the main box. If you change the direct gear in the auxillary to something faster (numerically smaller) you will make all the 5 gears in the main box faster which I don't think you want. You need an overdrive gear probably 0.6:1 in the 5th hole on the main box. It sounds like the one you have is direct in 5th not overdrive.

If it was some type of specialty truck with very unique specs or had a type of body that was "rare" or difficult to replace I would be more inclined to agree it is worth it. It sounds like it is a garden variety triaxle dump truck in which case it can't be economically "worth it" to rerail, overhaul engine, and replace the dump body vs buying a similar, fully depreciated, turnkey unit. If your objective is nostalgia, hobby, or some other reason that is not economics then yes it could be "worth it". If you had other truck(s) to run and eliminate the downtime you would have while rebuilding the truck it could also be worth it in that scenario as well. 

Looks like a late 1940s Diamond T to me. 

Probably not worth it. You can find those trucks all day long with good frame rails and beds for anywhere from $20k to $35k. Granted they probably wont have the same drivetrain specs as yours, however, you could keep yours as a parts truck. You could buy a turn key truck with similar specs and just start running it. Reframing a truck and having a new/used bed put on it can't cost less than $25k if you are paying a shop to do it plus you will be missing out on several weeks worth of revenue. Additionally you then have to rebuild the engine. I would find a solid used truck that suits your needs and go that route. And have your current engine rebuilt as a spare. And hang onto your current rears and transmission as good parts. 

On 9/5/2021 at 10:36 AM, Dayfarms said:

I’m looking for the toughest truck on the market and I’m leaning towards a Granite.

Any manufacturer's truck can be set up to be "the toughest truck on the market". Its all about correct specifications for the task. You could in theory spec a Granite so poorly it would give you as much trouble as the Cascadias you are referring to. In turn, you also can't take 8 Freightliner Cascadias off the interstate, which are set up for maximum fuel economy, throw them into a muddy field and expect them to hold up to that abuse.

Where are you located? I have a parts DM 800 and a parts DM600 for sale:

https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/65212-mack-steel-dash-dm600-dm800/

I am running a fully mechanical EM7 in a 1994 RD690 dump truck. It is a bone stock, one owner (before me), all original unit with 335,000 miles and 11,500 hours on the clock. It has some type of miss while under light throttle input from 1100 - 1300 rpm. For instance, if you are slowing down to make a turn, downshift, and your rpms fall within that range and you apply light throttle to maintain that speed/rpm it will make and audible missing sound. If you lift completely out of the throttle and let the trucks momentum carry itself it will go away. If you apply more throttle (say half or more) it will accelerate and go away around 1300 rpm. If the truck is on a downgrade or coasting in that rpm range under its own momentum with no throttle input at all it will not happen. It only happens when the throttle is lightly depressed in that certain rpm range. Any idea what it could be or tips on how to troubleshoot it. It appears the pump has never been apart as it and the timing gear cover still have the security wires and pressed lead fasteners still intact. Its drivable as is but annoying and obviously not right. For reference this is an EM7, 250 horsepower, governed at 1750rpm. Thanks in advance.

I would get the engine serial number and CPL (critical parts list) number and call a Cummins distributor. They probably have one on their shelf. The Cummins distributor by me is Bridgeway Cummins. If you have those two numbers off your engine they can get you anything for it. Very similar to Caterpillar's parts network.

10 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

It can be a Econodyne and a Maxidyne at the same time cant it ?

 

I always thought this was the case. I think the trucks with maxidynes that have the econodyne badge on the hood are governed at 1750 rpm. From the beginning the maxidynes were 2100 rpm engines. Somewhere along the line some of them were governed at 1750rpm to save fuel and reduce driver fatigue by cruising at 1750 instead of 2100. My 1994 RD690 has a fully mechanical EM7-250 under the hood but it is governed at 1750rpm. It has a silver bulldog on the hood and no econodyne badging though. 

2 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

There REALLY isn't much difference either way. However, there is one minor factor that IMO dictates that LHD should be the preferred configuration and that is the fact that the majority of people are right handed so it makes sense (to me) to put the shifter on the drivers right.

I have always wondered about this.  I feel like if I were to go to Australia I would not be able to drive a manual transmission. It seems so ridiculously nuts to have to shift with my left hand since I am right handed. I don't know if I have that coordination. I guess it would be the same concept for leftys pretty much everywhere else that drive manual transmissions. I guess you just get used to it?

No I jacked the pinion up with a floor jack and just rolled the whole assembly forward by hand. I had to cage the spring chambers to release the emergency brakes but once released the whole axle assembly will roll very easily on a level concrete floor. Yes air lines can easily be shortened. If they are the new style plastic material you can simply cut them, install an new ferrule, and reinstall them into the fitting and tighten.  Mine were still the original flared copper tubing. I just ended up replacing mine with all new materials and fittings since the copper was covered in hardened grease and 3 different colors of paint.

Shortening the wheelbase and driveline is a generally fairly simple project. Especially something with leaf spring rear suspension. I shortened my R model from 207" to 165" wheelbase with just basic tools last spring when I was forced to stay home for covid19 lockdown. Took about three days of work to complete but I took my time and was methodical about it. Pretty much all I needed was a 1/2" breaker bar with a 15/16" socket, 15/16" wrench, 1/2" drill, 5/8" drill bit, a tape measure, sledge hammer, and a lot of muscle. The driveshaft can be shortened by a driveline shop fairly easily and quickly once you get the rear axle bolted back in to its new location, and a final measurement. I think the shop charged me somewhere around $150 to shorten and rebalance my driveshaft. I wouldn't hesitate for a minute if all a truck needed was some wheelbase removed to be what you wanted....Attached are some of the pictures of when I shortened mine. Very doable project.

Here is another single axle diesel B model that is not rusty for sale on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203543149764?hash=item2f641dfcc4:g:9i8AAOSwWo1hBgw8

Yes. You can buy remanufactured compressors so they can obviously be rebuilt, however I'm not certain if you can buy a parts kit to do it yourself. I'm guessing most likely but someone else on here will know for sure.

Yes the air compressors are pressure lubricated by engine oil. They also generally have a coolant line going to them too for cooling.

Here is another fairly close to me. Near Youngstown, OH. They are literally all over if you look....

4 in Scranton PA.......

I always see at least 2 or 3 for sale on Facebook Marketplace whenever I look. Granted they are not always close to me but they are definitely out there. Look on the ATHS backlot classified listings as well. Always at least one for sale on there as well. Below is a very nice one in Uniontown Ohio.....There are 2 or three very close to me on Marketplace but they are project trucks requiring considerable investment..

6 minutes ago, Licensed to kill said:

So, just to be sure, just remove the three bolts that bolt the pump to the cover, remove the rear support and pull it out?

Yes. When you pull the pump away that machined/keyed coupler will fall out. Once you see it you will understand. It only goes back together one way. Just don't spin the engine while the pump is off.

I don't even know where to start with this one. Running on 11R22.5 rubber with a 2.28 rear end and a T2070 you would be turning 678 rpms at 60mph and 791 rpm at 70 mph in 7th gear😂. A 4700 or 4900 series poop spreader chassis is not designed to fit a 12 or 15 liter engine under the hood so serious modifications would have to be done plus the front suspension would need beefed up....A DT 466 is only 7.6 liter by comparison. Plus I doubt either of the two larger engines' radiators would fit under the hood. I don't know you so I would never pass judgement, but in this case I will say it is just another stupid idea of yours 😅. Just change the rear end gear in the truck you buy.

This truck is on Ebay for sale. Looks like it got damaged in some type of accident....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194216557302?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D5794447c5c4d480680f156e7047d40cf%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D194216557302%26itm%3D194216557302%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae1afbddc-d8f5-11eb-9b10-d6abf6455abd|parentrq%3A58922e0717a0a44e6ab6a657ffec1818|iid%3A1