mechohaulic

if the housing was changed with an after market replacement, the headlight ground may have a pop-rivet to the assembly which isn't completing a good ground.

as stated above sounds like ground issue. the pass side goes out possibly due to it's back feeding ground through the driver side. disconnect driver side takes away a poor ground to pass side. corrosion in plug will do it. trace the harness; might have broken/ fried wire

cardboard/ drain pail under front corner , little spray of brake clean and brush.

is the tag still on the door model /serial,, R611=== 673. R685 ==675 (doubt that one)

many years ago i started putting together the first gear B61 T&T sets based on the east coast fleets, had quite a few ; Adley Express, Yellow, Wilson, ETC, still have the St Johnsbury, and Lombard.

these "remember when" topics really get the brain cells going. the east coast had it's share of regional fleets:Lombard, Wilson, St. Johnsbury and an endless list of time gone by. when the topic starts with Matlack,Chemical Leman, and other major fleets no longer times have changed. being an ole Bast---- like i am LOL the gone to memory fleets list gets longer. was a major deal in the day to see the fancy yellow Monfort fleet fly through CT. don't know if they still run or not.

made an attempt to go out to garage today to look in that "special drawer" of home-made tools. the temp will have to go above the single digit first. modern technology (silicone) has replaced all the good stuff. one of the challenges back in the day was to see a transmission put together with this new white stuff silicone and not actual gaskets.

seems to me i had a HD box wrench that i heated up with a torch ; put an off set riser and bend in , cut off the open end was able to put small length of pipe on for leverage to tighten the inner bolt. before the days of silicone we put the brown tar -like permatex on the threads for sealant. sure we all have the one draw in the toolbox with custom made wrenches . problem with old age ; i look at the tools can't remember what i made them for.

todays news is showing the picture and saying packages will be late. seems to me if the trailer had partial load it would have slid back rapidly and flipped the entire unit over board. full load should have kept weight on trailer . no one hurt that's the important thing.

there's an outfit in CT that holds auctions having HD equipt ,i've noticed the fliers they send out don't have pictures of all the lots. there have been some good deals now and then . amazing the amount of auctions out there. spend alot of time searching Auctionzip.

I'll bet the driver's pants aren't. LOL

another positive with the 100 lb bottles;1 - i owned them no rental business,2- summer time i would hook one to the propane torch set up instead of using acy($$$). for basic heating or cutting, no ceiling furnace ,piping , plumbing . it worked for me but everyone has a different situation.

i tried the HD salamander type ; kerosene etc; besides the louder noise it would be 100 degrees in front of it and cold rest of the shop. also those needed electrical power , everyone said put in a wood stove ; not loosing all the floor space or piling wood in the shop. wood stove was in the house.

i had a 30x50 butler metal insulated with 14 ft inside height. i ended up with a contractors HD (100 k BTU ?) heater. had two 100lb bottles. on all day cold outside day i could work in tee shirt. it sure sucked down a 100lb bottle fast, but i could move it close to the project at hand and with the ceiling fan moving the air it was great. being around brake clean and other odorsi guess i never was bothered by "the smell"as others said. took all the wifes unused candles , chopped them and put the entire lot in a metal can on top of the heater. 1- made use of the candles, 2 smelled "pretty" when a visitor showed up!!LOL. no electric to pay $$ for. self contained unit

definitely a beautiful piece of machinery . parade fire trucks don't have wheels that nice. set up to go directly to a museum' i'd be afraid to drive it and get the wheels dirty.

the "new way" of thinking is count the pumps of grease, so i've heard. pumping till new grease shows ( the way i was taught also ) in some instances will blow out the seals if cams not shimmed proper. ever take off a wheel that has backing plates to find brake shoes covered with grease due to someone putting inner seal in backwards

77 is NOT an excuse ;;;; it's a REASON ..LOL . i'm on my way to 71. challenge is trying to answer questions on the forums when the brain thinks of the 60's=70's applications , comical when a post says " i have an old truck 20--; that's new to us old timers. to the topic, bronze bushings were used in all applications then. it was a world with out plastic parts.

i learned the wrong way many yrs ago about the trolley being hooked to rear brakes short version;;i picked up a brand new DM600 triaxle chassis from boston mack was heading back to waterbury ct mack. passing a truck ,he gave me "the lights" for ok pull back in right lane. as a thank you instead of putting 4-ways on i pulled the trolley !!! not good when you are in left lane with your foot to the boards. instead of just the flash of brake lights for thanks;; that chassis jumped and hopped almost went in ditch. as a youngin i didn't piss my pants but it was close

triaxle dump without tag set up will have the trolley hooked to rear brakes. your truck should slow down with the trolley. even with a tag set up,if you have the 2-3 button set up on dash for trailer brakes the brake lights might still work with the trolley without a trailer connected.

double check without trolley might be the dual air system , dump plumbed for tag basically is same system as tractor set up for hooking a trailer.

it also depends on the unit. a dump truck might have a trolley on the column which would also apply the truck service brake providing the dump was NOT set up to pull a tag trailer with air brakes. some double check valves have the brake light switch allowing the brake light to work with pedal or trolley application.

there are a couple of B model operator manuals on e_bay . i had a bid on one ;was out bid. these are NOT service manuals just the operator books that came with new trucks back then.

the valve in question should be the double check valve for the trolley valve on the steering column . pedal application has air through the valve to back brake valve same time the shuttle in the check valve closes air to the trolley valve. pulling down trolley sends air through check valve switches shuttle to close off pedal and send air brake valve .keep in mind, i discussing older vehicles. not many have trolley valves from what i hear.without the check valve there would be and exhaust of air from application not being used.

if the picture of the rear spring hanger is the actual truck being discussed, this ole man wasn't that far off in the text of check rear hangers LOL, picture looks as tho the pin in spring is way worn. i would take HD bottle jack ; 20 ton (over kill) always worked for me. place jack on top of spring between spring and bottom of frame rail closest to rear hanger , jack up to see how much play in pin bushing. looks definitely worn in picture. as previously stated; job for spring shop and not a safety hazard just a noise till $$ and time to tie up unit for proper repairs. almost looks like movement on the bolts holding rear hanger to frame -maybe not.